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Originally posted by liveforphysics
I'm glad you aren't having vortex problems Bean. I think you are saved due to the chaos of the water motion entering the overflow area. Even if you did, generaly a disk of plastic above the pipe can avoid them, and that would be simple to retrofit.
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Yes a disk near the surface would help if there was a problem. However, the chaos of the water motion coupled with the elbows profile and large open area negate the need for such a fix.
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From a velocity and noise perspective, I think valves near the end of the pipe would be optimal, it wouldn't require the use of those beautiful tru-union valves which would reduce plumbing cost as well.
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A simple ball valve would work just fine. I prefer to use either true unions or valves+unions anywhere in my system. Valves near the end of the pipe are certainly not a problem. In this (or similar) setup I prefered to have the valves at operator level, not in the cramped sump area. Moving the valves the the end of the standpipes will not hurt they operational parameters of the system and in fact could benefit the setup at LOW flow rates.
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This sort of system is absolutely superior to all the durso/stockman/gurgle buster style techinques for getting a tank to be quiet. After people hear how quiet a large reef can be when they come over, they are generally stunned and wondering why there own tanks 1/4th the size are so much louder. Silent overflow designs are the most critical part of getting your reef whisper quiet.
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I ageee 100%. Noise was not an option for this setup! I spent to much time and money on the home theater! My skimmer pump (OR3700) is the loudest piece of equipment on my system and it drives me crazy!
Thanks again for the kind remarks luke! My system may not be ideal, but I hope that it is something that others may build upon... just like I (and others) have built upon the ideas of other members of the reefing community like Richard Durso, Ken Stockman and even Herbie.