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Update
After completing the wheel for the CFC, I decided to change the original design / configuration. This new layout (turned 90 deg) allows me to place all of the systems in a better position to be visually monitored. I had to recut one of the outer 13.25 disks. I originally cut it in an opaque white acrylic but after I changed the configuration, I made it entirely clear. Luckily, I hadn’t welded the outer disks. I am also thinking of relocating the process pump into the upper half of the bio-reactor. This would allow for easier access to the process pump and would simplify the design by eliminating the access door but I’ve not fully committed to the concept yet.
I found a concerning crack near the bond line in the front right of the sump. I have made repairs but I’m still concerned. I will definitely do a prolonged water test before installing it. Maybe it wasn’t the best idea to use the old sump box, given the critical nature of a failure.
The change in design cost me some volume on the cheato reactor (about an inch in width but consolidating the flow path in front, where it can be visually monitored, will be better in the long run. This also places all of the plumbing out of the way, in the back of the sump.
The chaeto reactor will have four 15 watt pucks. I purchased 90 mm aluminum disks / circuit boards on eBay. They work pretty well. I use eight 660 nm (red) with five 460 nm (blue) and two 10K white LEDs per puck. They are powered by two 650 mw constant current power supplies (one for two pucks in parallel). I have used this configuration before and it seems to mimic most of the LED grow bulbs on the market which have strong peaks in the blue and red spectrum.
The LEDs must be force-air cooled, which means a small fan. Without it they heat up to almost 150 deg F. Anything above 95 and the LEDs start to lose their intensity. The losses can become significant at the higher temps. It only requires a little air movement to keep them relatively cool.
I prefer to have the chaeto tumble constantly. I have used several methods to ensure this, from pumps to channeling the in-flow into a circular motion with vanes and baffles. The pumps work really well but requires some attention. This build will utilize a guide vane that will channel the water from the overflow down and under the chaeto. At the end of the refugium, water will be redirected up and across the surface by an air-stone and vane. Hopefully this will provide enough circular motion to keep the ball of chaeto tumbling and also provide some additional gas exchange to increase the pH.
This will be the last post until I’m through the holidays. Cheers!
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