Peter, your electrical system goes well beyond my comprehension in sophistication and detail. For the kids following allowing, here are a few low-tech tips...
Try to use independent GFCIs so one failure doesn't take down the whole system. It's a tempting shortcut to daisy chain two or three outlets off of a GFCI to save some money, but this exposes you to more peril.
Some GFCIs have very sensitive reset/test buttons. AC adapters can put pressure on these switches and cause a false trip. Add a 6" mini grounded extension cord with an illuminated base plug. This will let you orient your AC adapter ant direction you want without blocking the other outlets or tripping the GFCI. The lighted plug makes it clear if the outlet is on. GFCIs have a tiny green light but they are difficult to see in daylight, aquarium light, or when blocked by plugs & wires.
Use a drip loop on any cords that run above the outlet. A drip loop is a loop tied in the cord with a cable tie to provide a low point for water to drip off so it doesn't run straight down the cord and into the outlet.
Strap powerbars down to the aquarium stand legs with cable ties so they can't fall in the sump or become dislodged when you yank the cords. Labeling the cords and or outlets save you some headache wile looking at the octopus of wires.
Try to run the return pump on a separate circuit from the closed loop or powerheads. This way you always have water movement if just one circuit trips.
Outdoor timers give you added humidity resistance and splash resilience. I use battery backed up digital ones with remote controls so the aquarist doesn't have to even know where the timer is, much less start pushing buttons randomly.
Disable any wall switches that affect the tank. You never know when the cleaning lady will turn off your return pump accidentally.
Use cable ties and wire covers to bundle up and organize wiring. make it so a device can be unplugged and removed without tearing the place apart. I use plastic C clips to affix wires to the wall, but I leave the C open (like a U) so the wire can be removed easily.
Use a titanium grounding probe in the display tank and the sump.
Set up a back-up system with a deep charge marine battery and auto activate/charging system. Something like this
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1826657