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Old 11/07/2009, 07:10 AM   #26
RBU1
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I made it my self. Old and tested recipe is 21gm CuSO4 and 21g citric acid to 500ml DI water. It's the 1 drop per gallon to make 0.15 to 0.20 ppm Cu.

I read Cupramine will take longer and only be readable by new SeaChem test kit. It is a different method than Salifert. I hope to have a rythme to additions after a few days. I'm waiting for a heater to start as it will be copper too.

That is not true Cuprmaine can be read with any test kit. You just have to get the proper range. Free copper is maintained at a much lower level than cupramine. Using free copper you want to target the .15 to .20 range when you use cupramine you want to target .3 to .8.....5 being the safe mid range. Where did you get your information about the test kits not working with cupramine??? I am actually going to buy one of these...
http://www.hannacan.com/fiches_techn...rs/HI95747.pdf


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Old 11/07/2009, 08:52 AM   #27
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Since your post I read it does work on RC. There is also a post saying it does not work together. Original post said Salifert and Seachem reps questioned compatibility. The banter of reefcentral is confusing to get straight facts. It's why I use advice vet forums and authors. Guess I'm adding to it

If you get the hanna make sure they reference the actual method and reagents used to determine if it is effective. Just to let you know Aquatic Eco sells a LaMotte test kit that has a more practical range but it is expensive too.


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Old 11/07/2009, 09:35 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by slow_leak View Post
Since your post I read it does work on RC. There is also a post saying it does not work together. Original post said Salifert and Seachem reps questioned compatibility. The banter of reefcentral is confusing to get straight facts. It's why I use advice vet forums and authors. Guess I'm adding to it

If you get the hanna make sure they reference the actual method and reagents used to determine if it is effective. Just to let you know Aquatic Eco sells a LaMotte test kit that has a more practical range but it is expensive too.
I don't like any of the copper test kits the color charts are to close in shade that it makes it real hard to determine your level. Thats why I am looking at the electronic type.


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Old 11/07/2009, 11:08 AM   #29
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How long do you treat the fish with copper to get rid of ICH?


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Old 11/07/2009, 11:09 AM   #30
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Cupramine can not be read with any test kits.The only two that work are seachem and salifert.api copper test kits for example do not work with cupramine.Salifert works but has some limitations as the range of testing is limited.I agree with you RBU1 trying to tell the colors apart is rediculous and they should make it easier.If you stare at it long enough youll talk yourself into 3 diffrent readings.


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Old 11/07/2009, 11:14 AM   #31
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Cupramine can not be read with any test kits.The only two that work are seachem and salifert.api copper test kits for example do not work with cupramine.Salifert works but has some limitations as the range of testing is limited.I agree with you RBU1 trying to tell the colors apart is rediculous and they should make it easier.If you stare at it long enough youll talk yourself into 3 diffrent readings.

I don't think that statement is correct....I am waiting for a response from Seachem.

I think some kits don't work because they are outside the range you need to read with Cupramine. If you look at the API kit for example. It might only read to .2...You need to read at least .5 for the cupramine. But like I said I am waiting to confirm with Seachem before I drop the $300.00 on a photometer.


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Old 11/07/2009, 11:15 AM   #32
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How long do you treat the fish with copper to get rid of ICH?
Read the bottle but to be safe I would say a month with Cupramine.


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Old 11/07/2009, 11:21 AM   #33
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The reason i know api doesnt work is that is the first test kit i bought when i first started useing cupramine.The range of the api kit is from 0.25 to 4.0 so that is not the problem.Its just not made to work with this buffered copper.


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Old 11/07/2009, 11:33 AM   #34
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The reason i know api doesnt work is that is the first test kit i bought when i first started useing cupramine.The range of the api kit is from 0.25 to 4.0 so that is not the problem.Its just not made to work with this buffered copper.

It is part of the problem. You want to have a kit that will test from .2 to .8 I asked Seachem they said Salifert and Red Sea kits work. Because they both cover the range. Like I said I am waiting for a response from Seachem.


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Old 11/07/2009, 11:59 AM   #35
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While i agree it does not have the ideal range that is not why it doesnt work.I have 3 copper test kits salifert,seachem and api.The api just does not measure the copper properly.I wish it did as the color range is much easier to tell part then the seachem but it wont work.I have no idea if the electronic meter you are looking at will work but i promise yout he api does not.


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Old 11/08/2009, 02:20 AM   #36
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My powder blue has ich but I have a friend who has a pb and at one time it had ich. He has a full blown sps tank and he did not take his fish out. One day it did not have ich and I know he didn't treat his tank. However mine is eating well and active. What should I do? I have beed feeding food soaked in garlic. I wanted to order some bartlets while they were on sale and am willing to take my pb out the tank.
Most people call them Ich-magnets for a reason! :P

The garlic should help with resistance and to fight the infection a small amount.


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Old 11/09/2009, 02:22 PM   #37
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Most people call them Ich-magnets for a reason! :P

The garlic should help with resistance and to fight the infection a small amount.
No fish is an ich magnet if there is no ich in the system.

Degree of susceptbility of fish to ich is moot.


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Old 11/09/2009, 02:37 PM   #38
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The question is Moot

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...deoID=10783207


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Old 11/09/2009, 02:55 PM   #39
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Most people call them Ich-magnets for a reason! :P

The garlic should help with resistance and to fight the infection a small amount.
I believe it is more correct to say that ich is an infestation rather than an infection.

Generally, in a bacterial infection, the bacteria get into the system and never want to leave. Lifecycle of the bacteria is much simplier. In nature, a fish either wins or dies from bacterial infection. Winners get the chance to reproduce.

For ich in nature, no such selective breeding exist, probably. Ich leave the fish on its own as a part of its lifecycle. Fish never have the great need to win over ich, as long as certain effective resistance and the dilution of the ocean exist, ich to fish is like an itch. Ich is not an infection.


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Old 11/09/2009, 03:46 PM   #40
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I am about 1/2 week into Quarantine of atlantic blue. It will be 8 weeks because DT is not empty yet.

I am using Salifert and Copper Sulfate in Citric Acid. I do not have your dilema with reading test kit. I just add 5 drops AM and 5-8 drops PM and test either AM or PM daily. It drops about 0.05 ppm in 12 hrs on its own. Just need a note pad.

I noticed all nori is gone each day in a low flow tank and fish responded better when I gave it Plastic sheet and pipe to hide in. Sponge filter was conditioned 2-3 weeks in MT sump. 1 1/2" fish is alone in 20 gallon tank, so filter should be OK. I check NH3 everyday.

This is easy. Real problem is extracting remaining fish in DT.


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