Are these Acrylic cuts sufficient?

Scuba_Steve · 07/08/2012, 08:22 PM

I just started learning how to fabricate acrylic, and cut up my first sheet of 1/4 yesterday. I am afraid my cuts are not coming out good enough though... I am using a 10" 80t Diablo plastic blade btw.

This primarily happens on larger pieces. I just cannot seem to keep the piece on the fence when making a 48" long cut.

Please let me know if I should have any problems. Ill be using Weldon 3.

NanoReefWanabe · 07/08/2012, 08:46 PM

i would run a router down it to clean the edges up perfect...i believe that most will cut a sheet with a table saw and clean the edge with a router before assembling.

peppie · 07/08/2012, 09:01 PM

If you are not able to keep the sheet up against the rip fence of the table saw during the full length of the cut, you will not be able to weld the seam. You are also in danger of the material kicking back at you.
I use a cheap Diablo blade from the box store then clean the edge with a router.

Scuba_Steve · 07/08/2012, 09:13 PM

When I say not able to keep it against the fence, I am meaning that one side is sliding away, usually at the back side of the fence. It is basically pivoting slightly. In the picture, you can use the bottom 1/4" piece as a reference for size. We are talking about a 1/64" at most, probably closer to a 1/128". It is not like this all the way down the cut, usually just at 1 or 2 points, usually closer to the end 1' of the cut.

I guess what I don't understand about using a router is: how to keep the same thing from happening on a router table, or if using a straight edge and a flush bit how to ensure all my pieces are the exact same width. Seems that when cutting 4 sides for example that I would have slight variances in the height of each piece. With the table saw I set the fence once, and make every cut needing that width to ensure symmetry.

NanoReefWanabe · 07/08/2012, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scuba_Steve

When I say not able to keep it against the fence, I am meaning that one side is sliding away, usually at the back side of the fence. It is basically pivoting slightly. In the picture, you can use the bottom 1/4" piece as a reference for size. We are talking about a 1/64" at most, probably closer to a 1/128". It is not like this all the way down the cut, usually just at 1 or 2 points, usually closer to the end 1' of the cut.

I guess what I don't understand about using a router is: how to keep the same thing from happening on a router table, or if using a straight edge and a flush bit how to ensure all my pieces are the exact same width. Seems that when cutting 4 sides for example that I would have slight variances in the height of each piece. With the table saw I set the fence once, and make every cut needing that width to ensure symmetry.

my cheapo router table has an offset fence. the bit removes say 1/64" and the fence after the bit is 1/64" out to catch the piece perfectly flush....for ease of doing i would leave myself 1/8" play or more to make measuring easier though...1/64 is pretty tough to measure accurately.

peppie · 07/08/2012, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NanoReefWanabe

my cheapo router table has an offset fence. the bit removes say 1/64" and the fence after the bit is 1/64" out to catch the piece perfectly flush....for ease of doing i would leave myself 1/8" play or more to make measuring easier though...1/64 is pretty tough to measure accurately.

That is the same way I do it. The key is the off set fence on the router table.

Sounds like your tablesaw fence has a crook in it or you are starting off with a edge that is not truly straight.

Acrylics · 07/09/2012, 07:40 AM

very possible the factory edges are not straight. Never trust the factory cuts, or anybody else's cuts to be straight and true.

James

DIY Reef Guy · 07/09/2012, 05:27 PM

2 words, bench jointer or router table. I use a bench jointer to clean up all of my acrylic cuts. It does the same thing as running the material by a router to take a skim pass to clean up the edges. Also It allows me to save the time from setting up the router table for different functions.

07/08/2012, 08:22 PM	#1
Scuba_Steve Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,175	Are these Acrylic cuts sufficient? I just started learning how to fabricate acrylic, and cut up my first sheet of 1/4 yesterday. I am afraid my cuts are not coming out good enough though... I am using a 10" 80t Diablo plastic blade btw. This primarily happens on larger pieces. I just cannot seem to keep the piece on the fence when making a 48" long cut. Please let me know if I should have any problems. Ill be using Weldon 3. __________________ 24x24x18 Cube 29g Sump LumenMax 250w HQI/Ushio 20k/Icecap Ballast Always looking for nice and cheap LPS and Zoas

07/08/2012, 09:13 PM	#4
Scuba_Steve Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,175	When I say not able to keep it against the fence, I am meaning that one side is sliding away, usually at the back side of the fence. It is basically pivoting slightly. In the picture, you can use the bottom 1/4" piece as a reference for size. We are talking about a 1/64" at most, probably closer to a 1/128". It is not like this all the way down the cut, usually just at 1 or 2 points, usually closer to the end 1' of the cut. I guess what I don't understand about using a router is: how to keep the same thing from happening on a router table, or if using a straight edge and a flush bit how to ensure all my pieces are the exact same width. Seems that when cutting 4 sides for example that I would have slight variances in the height of each piece. With the table saw I set the fence once, and make every cut needing that width to ensure symmetry. __________________ 24x24x18 Cube 29g Sump LumenMax 250w HQI/Ushio 20k/Icecap Ballast Always looking for nice and cheap LPS and Zoas

07/08/2012, 08:46 PM	#2
NanoReefWanabe A Pico Vase Guy Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Barrie, Ontario, Canada Posts: 5,652	i would run a router down it to clean the edges up perfect...i believe that most will cut a sheet with a table saw and clean the edge with a router before assembling.

07/08/2012, 09:01 PM	#3
peppie Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 1,774	If you are not able to keep the sheet up against the rip fence of the table saw during the full length of the cut, you will not be able to weld the seam. You are also in danger of the material kicking back at you. I use a cheap Diablo blade from the box store then clean the edge with a router.

07/09/2012, 07:40 AM	#7
Acrylics Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Posts: 4,081	very possible the factory edges are not straight. Never trust the factory cuts, or anybody else's cuts to be straight and true. James

07/09/2012, 05:27 PM	#8
DIY Reef Guy Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 81	2 words, bench jointer or router table. I use a bench jointer to clean up all of my acrylic cuts. It does the same thing as running the material by a router to take a skim pass to clean up the edges. Also It allows me to save the time from setting up the router table for different functions.