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Old 02/25/2015, 10:20 AM   #26
Willistein
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You're right - but I am curious how a pro would make this cut. Would they disassemble the tank and use water jet? Or are there hand tools out there that they would use to do the job?
Also, I can't see this costing less than several hundred $ if you took it to the pro, which to me, makes it a great DIY project.


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Old 02/25/2015, 02:59 PM   #27
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This sort of thing is a good path to a 3AM blowout, day 1 or 1000.


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Old 02/25/2015, 03:05 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk72 View Post
It can be done. This is 8" long by 1" deep. One of these on each side of a 48" tank. I did this with a dremel.
'

Rounded corners, good. Did you grind it all the way or cut out a piece and then grind? Are you planning to finish the edges up?


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Old 02/25/2015, 07:11 PM   #29
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Quote:
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This sort of thing is a good path to a 3AM blowout, day 1 or 1000.
Truer words have never been spoken.


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Old 02/26/2015, 08:19 AM   #30
03LightningSVT
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Once the overflow box is attached (using silicone adhesive) to the outside of the tank, where is the blowout going to happen? If anything were to happen, I would think it would be contained inside the overflow box....


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Old 02/26/2015, 09:34 AM   #31
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I guess I thought this was the DIY section...
To the OP: any progress on a plan for this?


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Old 02/26/2015, 10:18 AM   #32
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I guess I thought this was the DIY section...
To the OP: any progress on a plan for this?
Yep it is the DIY section. I checked!

One of the valuable parts of the DIY section is the experienced/pros suggesting that the user might be in over his/her head. There are times when we should hold 'em and times when we should fold 'em.

Without experience, it's difficult to know when 'when' is.

It is also not a desertion of the DIY creed to sub out part of the job. It's not only about skills it's also about tools. The right tools DO help.


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Old 02/26/2015, 10:48 AM   #33
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I hear ya


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Old 02/26/2015, 09:09 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by wolfblue View Post
'

Rounded corners, good. Did you grind it all the way or cut out a piece and then grind? Are you planning to finish the edges up?
I cut a piece out then finished the edges with a sanding barrel on a dremel. Used 60 grit first then 120.


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Old 02/27/2015, 01:39 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by 03LightningSVT View Post
Once the overflow box is attached (using silicone adhesive) to the outside of the tank, where is the blowout going to happen? If anything were to happen, I would think it would be contained inside the overflow box....
The idea of a potential blowout would be the entire piece of glass failing (due to some unseen defect caused by the cutting). The overflow box wouldn't do much to contain that.

Whether it'd actually happen is a bit impossible to say. Theoretically, it could. Theoretically, everything could be fine. Theoretically a meteor could smash through the ceiling and destroy the tank, making all the work for nothing. Hard to predict these things. Hence why some people like to take a hard stance when it comes to caution.


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Old 02/27/2015, 03:03 PM   #36
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My thoughts:
It doesn't matter if the cut out is done with a water jet or with diamond coated hand tools, the pane of glass will see the same pressure when filled with water.

The water jet method will result in less micro-fractures on the "as cut" edges. These micro-fractures are the most likely starting point for failure regardless of method used. Finishing work done after the cut is the key to longevity.

The installation of an external overflow or "scupper" box will add rigidity and reduce the ability of the cut pane to flex or bow, thus minimizing any integrity possibly lost due to the cut out.

I'm at over 100 days and have not lost a wink of sleep over this. Take a close look, I even compromised the top brace too! In 880 days or after the meteor strike, I'll post pics of the catastrophic failure






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Old 02/27/2015, 03:41 PM   #37
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very cool!


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Old 03/03/2015, 05:14 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodnaquanut View Post
One of the valuable parts of the DIY section is the experienced/pros suggesting that the user might be in over his/her head. There are times when we should hold 'em and times when we should fold 'em.
This is very sage advice, that sometimes we should go for it and other times we should hire a professional. However, it should be said that I do often find that my barometer for when to DIY is less conservative than some.

Quote:
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Theoretically, everything could be fine. Theoretically a meteor could smash through the ceiling and destroy the tank, making all the work for nothing. Hard to predict these things. Hence why some people like to take a hard stance when it comes to caution.
I completely agree here as well. Specific to this project, I still fail to see how using a diamond blade (which was made to cut glass to begin with...) to very slowly, carefully, and purposefully cut a slot and then proceed sand it out to finish the edge work, using the time and care that only a hobbyist working on his or her pet project would, carries any greater risk than using a glass hole cutter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willistein View Post
I guess I thought this was the DIY section...
To the OP: any progress on a plan for this?
That being said, I have decided to in fact engineer a sump into my new build. This negates part of the benefit of having an overflow slot, because I now will be placing the ATS in the sump. So I've canceled the slot overflow idea since I'll be drilling holes anyway to run lines to the sump. I had previously wanted an overflow slot because I was planning to have an ATS panel right up against the back panel of the aquarium in a sort of HOB-sump, and a slot in the back of glass would have been a really elegant way to feed water directly to the ATS panel.

But my sump plans are now almost equally outlandish; I just placed the order for the glass today, the sump itself will have the bizarre dimensions of 9.5" long x 8" wide x 18" tall. I will put up a build thread when the whole thing is up and running.


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Old 04/25/2015, 08:41 AM   #39
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Hawk, did you use a diamond disk with your dremmel? What did you use to cut the glass?


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Old 05/02/2015, 05:39 AM   #40
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I like dremel choice better for cutting glass for baffles and other small projects


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Old 10/21/2015, 03:22 PM   #41
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At 330 days, no meteor strike or catastrophic failure yet


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Old 01/23/2016, 03:58 PM   #42
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420 days...still running like a champ


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Old 06/25/2016, 05:56 PM   #43
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570 days, no meteor strike or catastrophic failure yet


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Old 03/07/2018, 05:16 PM   #44
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3 years later...still running like a champ and no meteor strike or catastrophic failure yet


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Old 03/07/2018, 05:41 PM   #45
mkj
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I had a glass shop do mine last week, cost $40 Canadian. It was a rectangle in middle top 6" x 2". Then I added a weir I got on ebay which is 1" solid and 1" weir at top. . They drill a hole at each corner and then slice towards each hole. End up with round inside corners. Vey nice proficiently straight/smooth lines. It was just the back piece of glass though not a complete tank. Then I assembled.

It would be difficult on an already put together tank. Glass is cut on a table horizontally for stability, which would be difficult to do on a complete tank.

I would suggest taking the back piece off and taking that to glass shop, then reattach. Much easier.

Half inch deep doesn't seem enough though. Your water level would be at 1/4" from top or less and if you have and water waves it would constantly spill over edge.

At my 2" depth half is solid piece of weir which leaves 1" at top for water. My water level is at around 3/4" from top which gives me some wave action ability.



Last edited by mkj; 03/07/2018 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 03/08/2018, 07:16 AM   #46
AquaManvsSkimme
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The pictures don't show up?




Quote:
Originally Posted by 03LightningSVT View Post
My thoughts:
It doesn't matter if the cut out is done with a water jet or with diamond coated hand tools, the pane of glass will see the same pressure when filled with water.

The water jet method will result in less micro-fractures on the "as cut" edges. These micro-fractures are the most likely starting point for failure regardless of method used. Finishing work done after the cut is the key to longevity.

The installation of an external overflow or "scupper" box will add rigidity and reduce the ability of the cut pane to flex or bow, thus minimizing any integrity possibly lost due to the cut out.

I'm at over 100 days and have not lost a wink of sleep over this. Take a close look, I even compromised the top brace too! In 880 days or after the meteor strike, I'll post pics of the catastrophic failure






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Old 03/08/2018, 06:03 PM   #47
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I've actually had exactly the described blowout hapoen.
I had drilled a series of 1" holes in the back panel of a 65 gal. It was surrounded by a glass overflow box, siliconed all around.
It didn't stop the crack that started at one hole and went right down to the bottom.
The tank had been in use for about 3 years with no issues, then one day it blew.
I didn't round or polish the edges of the holes, and I'm not sure if that would have helped prevent it.


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Old 03/09/2018, 08:00 AM   #48
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The best way to do this is either with a wet saw or grinder with a high quality diamond blade, a Diamond drill bit... and diamond grit sanding/ budding pads..

The key is to avoid chips.. If you have any chips grind them down then buff them out smooth . this will keep them from becoming fractures...

If your not skilled with using power tools and cutting super hard surfaces let someone who is more skilled do it for you... I have cut a picture frame from glass in the past on my radial arm wet saw.


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Old 03/09/2018, 02:46 PM   #49
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+1
As noted in post #36 "Finishing work done after the cut is the key to longevity."


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