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Old 06/28/2015, 09:12 AM   #1201
DNA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cal_stir View Post
I do believe we can beat this and I believe it takes a natural balance of diverse creatures to do it.
I agree.

---

As I'm reading this there is a program on TV about dinos.
They all die due to a meteor.

Sounds simple, but hard to reproduce.


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Old 06/28/2015, 09:17 AM   #1202
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I've never had bubble algae. I think you mean valonia?


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Old 06/28/2015, 11:22 PM   #1203
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Since November 2014 I've had 6 ostreopsis outbreaks in one of my tanks. Now I can handle it very easily and get rid of it in less than a week without any animal loss.

I just switch off the skimmer and increase feeding amounts. If I was throwing in three frozen dice a day, I start feeding with six or eight and any sign of any dinoflagellates vanish.

I have another tank that was infected with ostreopsis. It is about six months squeaky clean and I just had to switch the skimmer for several days.

Corals are thriving in both systems.


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Old 06/29/2015, 01:23 AM   #1204
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is this dino?

I've been having a huge outbreak of what I thought was cyano and diatoms.. happened to read on a local forum that dino looks like diatoms but kills snails.. Uh oh. I've lost 10 astrea snails in the last 10 days.

Params fairly normal: Salinity 1.025, temp 78, no ammonia (surprisingly) or nitrite, nitrate less than 1 (salifert). Alk 8ish, Ca 400-420. Don't have a recent phosphate test but it was .03 last month. No Mag test, going to buy one this week as I should probably be dosing it.

Shrimp, brittle star, goby seem unaffected. That sexy shrimp is in every picture I take of my tank Whatever it is, it doesn't seem to be on my corals. It's covered the back wall of the tank and is really bad on the bottom of one side. Pods seem to love it.



Tank is 28g jbj nano, CF lights, no skimmer (they don't fit!). Weekly 10% wc (going to skip this week in case it is dino). Dosing -just alk supplement every other day, Ca every week or two. Carbon in the back chamber, changed monthly. Been running for about 5 months, including a long 6 + week cycle

thanks in advance!
ivy


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Old 06/29/2015, 08:40 AM   #1205
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Do you see bubbles? Dino usually looks like snotty mucusy strings with bubbles.

If worried, take a sample and then take a picture under a microscope.


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Old 06/29/2015, 11:18 AM   #1206
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Yes! I for one believe there are always dinos in a tank at some level. Whrn competing micro fauna and algae have all the nuttients they can use they simply out munch the dinos. It is another way of starving them out. Whether you super clean, use massive amounts of nitrate and phosphate removers along with UV and skimming as I did or force feed the tank, the end results seem to be the same. I repopulated my good guys by dosing heavily with the live "reef stew" (phyto, pods, rotifers etc.) from the LFS. What I HAVE done since my breakout is to force the bare rocks to grow coralline. My original problem was a runaway attack of HA. It was the marine algaecide which got me in trouble in the first place. My thoughts are algae doest grow on coralline covered rocks. We shall see.


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Old 06/29/2015, 11:41 AM   #1207
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Mike - that's my strategy and history as well. I had DIY rocks that leached too much phosphate. The result was HA in extreme excess all over. The cleanup with GFO and algae scrubber/DSB worked too well and crashed the HA vey quickly.

The end result was exposed rock with no algae and few nutrients. Without the natural plankton that comes with real LR (I had seeded some - they never got the dinos), it was a perfect space for the dino takeover.

I went dark, slow UV and heavy skimming till clean. That gave my coralline time to form and reduce the available real estate for dinos.

So far, so good


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Old 06/29/2015, 11:49 AM   #1208
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In retrospect, I should have used LaCl on my rocks before using them... That would have kept things clean from the start.


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Old 06/29/2015, 04:32 PM   #1209
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My thoughts are algae doest grow on coralline covered rocks. We shall see.
Algae does grow on coralline encrusted rock. I think what you are attempting is to encourage vigorous coralline algae growth to out-compete nuisance algae.


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Old 07/04/2015, 05:19 AM   #1210
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I did a crude test with iron saturation in my tank.

I have no means to measure iron in the water column so I'm assuming it was low since I run large amount of carbon in a canister and replace it often.

It was time to replace the Rowaphos GFO so this time I skipped all the rinsing I normally do and disconnected the carbon canister for a week. The water got hazy red with microscopic iron particles so there must have been a huge iron spike lasting for some days.

An effect on the dino population was not noticed.

I think this shows that dinos are not affected with iron saturation levels from verylow to high, but levels from verylow to zero remains to be tested properly. In the past I have done tests with large amounts of carbon without any change to the dino population so one may think very low saturation level is not a factor.


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Old 07/04/2015, 05:25 AM   #1211
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I also did an excess current test with a Gyre and 5 Tunze stream pumps.
Dinos just adapt and relocate to new spots.


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Old 07/04/2015, 06:27 AM   #1212
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I recently stopped uding Rowaphos in favor of Phosguard. The two primary reasons were cost and the statement by Seachem saying that Phosguard removes silicate from the water. After researching the tests by many that Phosguard leaches aluminum oxide I am satisfied that yes it does so but only under conditions of absurd Ph conditions, not rinsed properly before use and if it is allowed to grind itself up in a turbulent media reactor. It has been about two months now and I have not seen even a slight negative response from my corals. Rowa is a great product, no problems with the way it works. When my dino outbreak hit I wanted to be as sure as possible that it wasnt a diatom attack hence my interest in silicate removal. The pellet design works better in my phosphate reactor too. My Hanna phosphate meter has been showing a solid 0.0 with Phosguard. In the18 months of Rowa use the same meter was indicating about 0.03 on average. My dino attack was an unexpected result of using a marine algae killer for HA. These days I am trying to be more pro active with algae control. Along with all the other reef related expenses, affordability ranks high in my list. So far....so good.


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Old 07/05/2015, 02:31 PM   #1213
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FWIW, GFO removes silicate in the same way that PhosGuard does. People have been successful with both products.


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Old 07/05/2015, 03:04 PM   #1214
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I stopped using phosguard in favor of iron GFOs. The excess alumina (and I was careful) made it very difficult to keep zoas and softies.


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Old 07/05/2015, 05:46 PM   #1215
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Update:
I have reinstalled about 3/4 of my sand bed with new, have continued feeding fresh phyto and added more "pods+" from reef cleaners and doing regular water changes and absolutely no signs of dinos and my tank looks marvelous.


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Old 07/05/2015, 10:13 PM   #1216
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I'm on my second outbreak of dinoflagellates in my biocube 14. I believe it all started when all of the algea on my ATS died off. I did a 3 day blackout with H202 dosing followed by a treatment of chemiclean and a 4 gallon water change using tropic marin bioactif (was using reef crystals). All was well until the following week when I did a 1 gallon water change using the reef crystals again, and they popped back up. So I did another treatment of chemiclean with no effect, so I tried a 3 day blackout again with H202 dosing, and it seems that now they are only on the glass. I'm tempted to use the first method again and see what happens, I'm just worried about my acropora. .....


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Old 07/05/2015, 10:48 PM   #1217
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Update:
I have reinstalled about 3/4 of my sand bed with new, have continued feeding fresh phyto and added more "pods+" from reef cleaners and doing regular water changes and absolutely no signs of dinos and my tank looks marvelous.
Congrats. Glad things are looking up for you.


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Old 07/06/2015, 05:13 PM   #1218
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Congrats. Glad things are looking up for you.
Thanks, the battle was long and hard and I nearly threw in the towel twice, now I'm glad I slept on that decision each time. I now believe that diversity is the key.


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Old 07/08/2015, 10:04 PM   #1219
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I was so happy to never have to read this thread or others again about dinos. But now my dinos popped back up again. All I did last time was stop caring. How are you guys speeding up that process? I don't have sps and realize how much more difficult it would be with them keeping your nutrient low. I'm using dr. Tims to start. All level at 0 obviously and it's affecting my coralline. No snail die off yet. I can't believe how long some of you have been dealing with this.

Also do you think that the key to blackout isn't killing them off completely but making your tank dirtier from die off?


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Old 07/09/2015, 12:19 AM   #1220
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I think the blackout forces them into the water column where mechanical filtration or protein skimming (and UV) remove (or kill) them.

Dinos will survive without light. They can feed directly on nutrients in the water.


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Old 07/09/2015, 02:43 PM   #1221
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Update:
I have reinstalled about 3/4 of my sand bed with new, have continued feeding fresh phyto and added more "pods+" from reef cleaners and doing regular water changes and absolutely no signs of dinos and my tank looks marvelous.
Where are you getting your fresh phyto? I think I might try your approach, I'm starting to get desperate. ....


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Old 07/09/2015, 03:04 PM   #1222
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last time I got dino was by dosing voka. Since then I stopped voka dosing and it was fading away.


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Old 07/09/2015, 03:19 PM   #1223
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I was so happy to never have to read this thread or others again about dinos. But now my dinos popped back up again. All I did last time was stop caring. How are you guys speeding up that process? I don't have sps and realize how much more difficult it would be with them keeping your nutrient low. I'm using dr. Tims to start. All level at 0 obviously and it's affecting my coralline. No snail die off yet. I can't believe how long some of you have been dealing with this.

Also do you think that the key to blackout isn't killing them off completely but making your tank dirtier from die off?
The best way I found out to rid of Dino was to just let your tank go and extend out your W/C. I added bacteria which in the long term I didn't find it very useful at all. Best thing to do is, be patient and let it starve itself out. Had a Zoa go from 25+ polyps to 6 when I finally won the battle.


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Old 07/09/2015, 03:40 PM   #1224
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Not for you sps people but, has anyone ever had dinos with nitrates in the 10-30 ppm range?


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Old 07/09/2015, 04:29 PM   #1225
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Just to be sure. This is definitely dinos right? I'm giving up. So the Lfs won't have a problem taking in my coral because it's a problem with my system right? His system should be fine with it?


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