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Old 08/23/2015, 02:04 PM   #1601
dartier
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I believe they are imported from the water column. You can even buy products intended to help corals regain their symbiotic zooxanthellae (AlgaGenís product PhycoPure Zooxanthellae).

In the Anemone forum, one of the techniques they use for treating bleached anemones is to do a zooxanthellae transplant. Basically injecting a piece of a healthy pureed tentacle into a bleached specimen. It has shown promise for saving nem's that otherwise tend to perish.

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Old 08/23/2015, 02:57 PM   #1602
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More Zoox are a side effect of nutrient rich water and is what causes corals to Brown out


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Old 08/24/2015, 06:05 AM   #1603
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Yesterday morning I started to add the content of my skimmer back to the tank after having sat there for a week.
I drained the wet part from the skimmer in 3 doses 3 hours apart to make sure it was not too much of a shock to the fish.
I can't say I like the smell of sulfur in the morning, but it didn't seem to have any effect on the fishes.

The skimmer was turned off and the water turned slightly less transparent with the 0.4gallon (1.5 litres) of skimate back in there.
I scraped the glass as well to add to the mix and added a bag of GAC to a high flow area.

Last night the dinos took off the sand bed for their nightly swim in the water column and today right after the lights come on they all returned so it looks identical to how it did yesterday.

If something happens in the next few days or not, you will be the first to know.
After two days it's the same.
Dinos don't care.


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Old 08/24/2015, 08:56 AM   #1604
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i had small dino outbreak along with cyano....what worked for me was 1)added for life (fish, pods, snails, crabs, phyo, etc) 2) drier skimmate 3)killed the cyano with chemiclean....i think you need to kill the cyano first.....


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Old 08/24/2015, 09:39 AM   #1605
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i had small dino outbreak along with cyano....what worked for me was 1)added for life (fish, pods, snails, crabs, phyo, etc) 2) drier skimmate 3)killed the cyano with chemiclean....i think you need to kill the cyano first.....
That's exactly what I did and I killed the cyanobacteria first with chemiclean


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Old 08/24/2015, 10:30 AM   #1606
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i had small dino outbreak along with cyano....what worked for me was 1)added for life (fish, pods, snails, crabs, phyo, etc) 2) drier skimmate 3)killed the cyano with chemiclean....i think you need to kill the cyano first.....
What kind of pods


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Old 08/24/2015, 10:48 AM   #1607
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I didn't have any cianobacteria but used some amoxiciline to combat toxic ostreopsis (on the first of the five outbreaks). It didn't harm ostreopsis at all but killed all bacteria and ostreopsis turned non-toxic on the four following outbreaks.
It seems there is a relationship between toxicity and bacteria.


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Old 08/24/2015, 12:10 PM   #1608
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.....but killed all bacteria and ostreopsis turned non-toxic....
How could you tell that no toxins were produced?
How could you tell that all bacteria was dead?


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Old 08/24/2015, 02:56 PM   #1609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mathman7728 View Post
i had small dino outbreak along with cyano....what worked for me was 1)added for life (fish, pods, snails, crabs, phyo, etc) 2) drier skimmate 3)killed the cyano with chemiclean....i think you need to kill the cyano first.....
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That's exactly what I did and I killed the cyanobacteria first with chemiclean
Pretty much what I did except I chemicleaned the cynao last.


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Old 08/24/2015, 03:00 PM   #1610
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What kind of pods
Amphipods, copepods and I added pods+ from reef cleaners


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Old 08/24/2015, 03:28 PM   #1611
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How could you tell that no toxins were produced?
How could you tell that all bacteria was dead?
Because no snails or fish died on the 2nd to 5th outbreaks (before treatment with antibiotics.

It is a supposition, amoxiciline is very efficient killing bacteria, especially ciano. Erithromicin as well.


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Old 08/24/2015, 05:26 PM   #1612
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DNA,
I am having a dino issue in my frag tank. I have two small fish (Banggai Cardinalfish and Tailspin Blenny) and a few snails. The tank is a 40 gallon breeder with a 30 gallon long sump/refugium with chaetomorpha algae. I feed the tank two or three times a week and the nitrates read 0.00 (clear) on the Salifert test kit and 0.04 on the Hanna Checker. The tank is barebottom and I use a 8 bulb TEK T5 fixture for lighting. I didn't have this problem until recently when the nitrates dropped. Do dino's appear when the phosphate level is higher than the nitrate level or is there no correlation? What causes the din's to appear and what is the method to correct the problem?


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Old 08/24/2015, 07:56 PM   #1613
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Amphipods, copepods and I added pods+ from reef cleaners
What kind of copepods? Sorry I'm asking, but just wondering if this is the swimming or rock crawling ones


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Old 08/24/2015, 08:00 PM   #1614
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I hate these damn dinos. My gfs tank has them now too. It was my fault. I put a coral in her tank from mine. Soo stupid.

If i were to restart a tank. How would I go about cleaning the rock? Do I dip in hydrogen peroxide, vinegar bath, leaving darkness for a month, etc...

And what to do with corals? I have maybe $200 in corals. How do I clean them?


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Old 08/24/2015, 09:34 PM   #1615
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If you infected her tank, I bet her system wasn't very mature either.
Dinos are in every system already at some level. The coral probably didn't help, but it was going to happen anyway.


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Old 08/25/2015, 10:29 AM   #1616
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What kind of copepods? Sorry I'm asking, but just wondering if this is the swimming or rock crawling ones
Benthic, bottom dwellers.


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Old 08/25/2015, 10:34 AM   #1617
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Do dino's appear when the phosphate level is higher than the nitrate level or is there no correlation? What causes the din's to appear and what is the method to correct the problem?
Dino infested tanks often get stuck at zero nitrates and phosphates.

Right now we are looking into plankton as a cure.
That mean we are adding to the bio diversity and lack there of goes the other way around.


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Old 08/25/2015, 10:37 AM   #1618
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Originally Posted by DNA View Post
Yesterday morning I started to add the content of my skimmer back to the tank after having sat there for a week.
I drained the wet part from the skimmer in 3 doses 3 hours apart to make sure it was not too much of a shock to the fish.
I can't say I like the smell of sulfur in the morning, but it didn't seem to have any effect on the fishes.

The skimmer was turned off and the water turned slightly less transparent with the 0.4gallon (1.5 litres) of skimate back in there.
I scraped the glass as well to add to the mix and added a bag of GAC to a high flow area.

Last night the dinos took off the sand bed for their nightly swim in the water column and today right after the lights come on they all returned so it looks identical to how it did yesterday.

If something happens in the next few days or not, you will be the first to know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DNA View Post
After two days it's the same.
Dinos don't care.

After three days it's the same.
Dinos don't care.


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Old 08/25/2015, 10:37 AM   #1619
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Why do we think coralline recedes and turns white? Alk, mag, and ca all good. Dino's not necessarily on the parts that turn white


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Old 08/25/2015, 10:41 AM   #1620
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I upped the amount of food in mine about 6 months ago and also started dripping kalk. My dinos are gone. The refugium started growing better it has calurpa and cheato. And the pod population exploded. I have had more coral growth in the last six months that was probably better than the previous 3 years. I believe my balance of the system was off and dinos will out compete everything. I have not had to stir the sand bed for over 5 months and I get just a little film algea on the glass.


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Old 08/25/2015, 11:58 AM   #1621
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Coralline needs nutrients too - phosphate especially.


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Old 08/25/2015, 12:15 PM   #1622
DNA
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Why do we think coralline recedes and turns white? Alk, mag, and ca all good. Dino's not necessarily on the parts that turn white
Calcification often stops in corals and they lose their color. Same goes for coralline.
Why this happens has not been proven yet but I find these causes to be likely:

Coralline repels dinos with their chemical defenses. If you place dry rock on top of the coralline, dinos will settle there.

The toxic soup can get to leathal levels. At lower levels I don't find it odd that life struggles.
I've had light gray M capricornis and elephant skin looking pale gray for months. You would swear they were dead. Same goes for the coralline. It's pale gray, not white and still alive.

Beneficial bacteria is kept down by the dinos.


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Old 08/25/2015, 12:22 PM   #1623
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Quote:
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Why do we think coralline recedes and turns white? Alk, mag, and ca all good. Dino's not necessarily on the parts that turn white
Yes, that's a really good question. It must be able to inhibit other organisms ability to uptake calcium, in my case after a year my doser was dialed back from 72ml/d ca, 62ml/d alk and 30ml/d mag to 30ml/d ca, 20ml/d alk and 0 ml/d mag and my mag got over 1500ppm. Coraline algae was receding and turning white and the couple sps corals I have weren't growing much.


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Old 08/25/2015, 02:49 PM   #1624
Quiet_Ivy
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Quote:
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Why do we think coralline recedes and turns white? Alk, mag, and ca all good. Dino's not necessarily on the parts that turn white
Mine's doing that too. Dinos cause weird alk swings in my tank, the worse they get, the wider the swings. Ca and Mg are fine in my tank. Just a guess.

hth
ivy


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Current Tank Info: 28g aio, 105 watt CF lights, no sump or skimmer. 2 sexy shrimp, tiny frogspawn, tiny toadstool, tiny lps. Started Feb '15
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Old 08/25/2015, 02:59 PM   #1625
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Drive by updates as I'm still house and garden sitting. There's nothing like garden veggies is there?

I misunderstood the Montireef protocol and had been saving skimmate in a jar (from various people). I put 30mL of it in Mon and today, anyway. No reaction.

Stirred up a small area of lumpy sand to see if anything dire happened. Interestingly the lumps are back today. Cygni must be right about it being bacterial.

Something I'm doing may be very bad:
Slightly panicky because I'm getting that ominous yellow haze from the sandbed up about 5cm. Previously that's been the warning sign for a massive dino bloom. It's covered with pods.

Ivy


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Current Tank Info: 28g aio, 105 watt CF lights, no sump or skimmer. 2 sexy shrimp, tiny frogspawn, tiny toadstool, tiny lps. Started Feb '15
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