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Old 07/22/2017, 08:27 AM   #4376
drummerboyevil
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I don't usually post here, but I wanted to post my recent success vs. Dinos. I'm just going to copy past from my thread on another forum. I am on day two of UV treatment and they are basically GONE. Details below:

My Dino's came back after I started doing water changes again (20% weekly). This was about a month ago.

I took a relatively hands off approach by just dosing some phosphates to keep them around 0.1ppm and continuing to feed heavy to maintain my 5ppm nitrates. The Dino's got worse and worse over the month to the point of starting to **** off my limited zoas/palys as well as reduce polyp extension in SPS.

My type of Dino's seems to go into the water column at night for the most part, so I decided to try something that I haven't tried in the 1+ years that I've been dealing with this garbage in 3 tanks now... a UV sterilizer. I bought a 55 watt jebao pond sterilizer on amazon for $70ish dollars. It arrived yesterday and I hooked it up in the afternoon. I plumbed it directly to the display with a 300 gph quietone pump set to its lowest setting. I have not measured the exact output but it's quite slow. I'm running the UV 24/7 for now.

95% of the Dino's were gone this morning. Nothing but the white death webs were left.

During my lights on today there was NO noticeable growth in the few tiny areas of Dino's that I can barely find. So far this has been a HUGE success for me and this was the only change I have made... other than blasting the tank with a turkey baster a few hours after lights out to get as much in the water column as possible. Seems like a heck of a coincidence if it wasn't the UV.

My sunny Ds are open for the first time in over a week and I have noticeably more polyp extension in my SPS.

I will continue to update this thread with my findings, but if you have Dino's that seem to dissipate during lights out I HIGHLY recommend giving this a try.


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Old 07/22/2017, 08:28 AM   #4377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason2459 View Post
FWIW, the UV has done nothing to the cyano, dino's, or ORP in my system in the 400-500gph range with a 56watt AquaUV unit.

Going to take it offline and see what pushing a lot of O3 through my system will do. Currently I have a small red sea ozone generator and can only go up to 50mg/hr and I run at minimum of that. So, I have a new generator coming in that can push 200mg/hr through my skimmer which has a flow rate of about 390-400gph and an air pull of about 30scfh.
Have you tried 100-150 gph? This is what I am at with my 55w jebao UV plumbed directly to the display and my dinos were 95% gone overnight. They are a type of dino that goes into the water column at night. I've read that extremely slow is the key to killing larger stuff like dinos and the difference was night and day overnight.


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Old 07/23/2017, 01:43 PM   #4378
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I checked today and I'm running roughly 180gph


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Old 07/23/2017, 04:31 PM   #4379
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I have not ran it that slow. According to AquaUV it's supposed to be ran well over 1000gph so I figured 400-500gph should be very slow for it. But I can come back to it and see.

I would imagine the way yours is setup is much better with it pulling directly from the display. Mine is in my basement sump.


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Old 07/24/2017, 09:05 AM   #4380
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Is there anything better than stump remover to raise Nitrates?
I have been feeding HEAVY to my tank but have not been able to get my nitrates to budge from 0.

If stump remover is the way to go then specifically which one should I go with?


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Old 07/24/2017, 11:54 AM   #4381
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Most people seem to go with the Spectracide stump remover. I grabbed mine from Lowes. You will have to mix it with RO/DI as it is granules not liquid.


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Old 07/24/2017, 12:28 PM   #4382
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Most people seem to go with the Spectracide stump remover. I grabbed mine from Lowes. You will have to mix it with RO/DI as it is granules not liquid.
Thank you! What would you advise the stump remover to water ratio be to start with?

will be dosing a 30G tank.


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Old 07/24/2017, 01:21 PM   #4383
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Thank you! What would you advise the stump remover to water ratio be to start with?

will be dosing a 30G tank.
I did 2 tablesppons in 2 cups of RO/DI, based on a post on another forum.


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Old 07/26/2017, 04:10 PM   #4384
drummerboyevil
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Originally Posted by jason2459 View Post
I have not ran it that slow. According to AquaUV it's supposed to be ran well over 1000gph so I figured 400-500gph should be very slow for it. But I can come back to it and see.

I would imagine the way yours is setup is much better with it pulling directly from the display. Mine is in my basement sump.
Yea I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make to be honest. I mean, my sump turnover is more like 600-700gph and this UV is drawing water pretty darn near the overflow. If it's a dino that goes into the water column at night then I'm not sure how much of a difference it would make.


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Old 07/26/2017, 05:06 PM   #4385
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Amazon had food-grade sodium nitrate on sale at one point. That would be fine for dosing nitrate.


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Old 08/01/2017, 09:26 AM   #4386
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Originally Posted by rajilnaja View Post
I did 2 tablesppons in 2 cups of RO/DI, based on a post on another forum.
So far dosing hasnt impacted my dino problem, going to do 3 days lights out and start up peroxide dosing again and see if that combo helps. Already have a UV running at this point.


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Old 08/08/2017, 04:28 PM   #4387
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So far dosing hasnt impacted my dino problem, going to do 3 days lights out and start up peroxide dosing again and see if that combo helps. Already have a UV running at this point.
Almost a week since the dinos started to die off in my tank. Still havent done any water changes. Once I noticed the die off in the tank I did another period of lights off to hit it while it seemed to be down. But so far so good.


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Old 08/09/2017, 08:50 AM   #4388
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Is this Dino Flagellates??????

Hi guys,

Im brand new to this forum and just wanted to know if any of you could possibly identify the long hair algae strain that is in my tank.

I have been fighting this for about 10 months now. My Phosphates and Nitrates are zero and my lighting is on 7 hours a day.

My local aquarium store said it may be Dino Flagellates and to do a full 48 hour black out and treat with Peroxide.

Can anyone shed some light on this algae? I also have micro bubbles forming at the very top of the tank substrate.

Cheers!


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Old 08/09/2017, 08:53 AM   #4389
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Looks like regular hair algae


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Old 08/09/2017, 09:01 AM   #4390
Fishboy2017
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I agree... thats what I always thought however it keeps growing back despite I have Zero Phosph and Zero Nitrate.. Im also treating with NO PO to keeping Nitrate at bay. The hair has always been there even after pulling it out. Keeps coming back!


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Old 08/09/2017, 09:08 AM   #4391
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I agree... thats what I always thought however it keeps growing back despite I have Zero Phosph and Zero Nitrate.. Im also treating with NO PO to keeping Nitrate at bay. The hair has always been there even after pulling it out. Keeps coming back!
If algae is using the phosphates at a high rate u could still show 0 po4.

I would try vibrant on that green algae. Really good on that kind of stuff.

As others have said, definitely doesn't look like dinos.

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Old 08/09/2017, 08:45 PM   #4392
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Thanks Thor2j -- would a 72 hour black out with Peroxide help be a good solution too? Or does Vibrate have a proven track record?


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Old 08/09/2017, 10:11 PM   #4393
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you need an export mechanism. add an algae scrubber


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Old 08/09/2017, 11:18 PM   #4394
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Any recommendations of where to get a good one? So your saying the black out technique is a no no?


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Old 08/09/2017, 11:44 PM   #4395
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black out is temporary. the inorganics have to go somewhere. There's whole threads on RC on DIY and purchased algae scrubbers...


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Old 08/09/2017, 11:49 PM   #4396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishboy2017 View Post
Any recommendations of where to get a good one? So your saying the black out technique is a no no?
If your goal is to knock back some photosynthetic pest a bit temporarily with a black out then a black out may help do that. However, most photosynthetic pests will bounce right back.

In the case of dinos most that would not like the blackout would just form a cyst and come right back when they feel like it. In fact this one type that I captured last night seemed perfectly fine with out light. And in fact was much more active then when I've seen them in my display tank under the microscope.

post #440
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...0#post25175350


For an ATS you can cheaply make your own.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...77420&page=382

I personally don't put as much weight into them in defeating dinos but I do believe in harvesting algae of some type in some way as a very good way to help control nutrients and unwanted elements like heavy metals that they uptake.

I currently run an ATS built by Turbo's aquatics and if you want to buy one I highly recommend his.
Mine setup over my sump.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...673282&page=79


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Old 08/10/2017, 08:21 AM   #4397
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Thanks Thor2j -- would a 72 hour black out with Peroxide help be a good solution too? Or does Vibrate have a proven track record?
There's a very long thread on vibrant . I would try that and keep an eye on your po4 as u use it.


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Old 08/17/2017, 07:45 AM   #4398
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Hey everyone, I'm new, my tank is just getting passed it's cycle and I'm getting this weird snot looking stuff on my rocks and this weird looking stuff on the surface of my sump

Here is the pictures of my tank rocks


I'm sorry I don't know more this is an extremely long thread with a lot of information so could someone help me out ? Am I doomed or is it not Dino's


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Old 08/17/2017, 08:18 AM   #4399
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Looks like sponges on the rocks?


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Old 08/17/2017, 08:23 AM   #4400
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Looks like sponges on the rocks?


What do you mean ?


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