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Old 12/10/2016, 07:51 PM   #151
Salty150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new2salttanks View Post
Got a small clown with 3 white spots, I think it's ich. Have an extra 2 gallon tank just laying around couldn't decide if I needed bigger or not.
Ah...

Well, it "might" be OK...

But getting the right amount of meds in a 2 gallon would be a pain.

If it were me, I would go pick up a cheap, at least, 5 gallon... for the small clown.


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Old 12/10/2016, 10:44 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Salty150 View Post
Ah...

Well, it "might" be OK...

But getting the right amount of meds in a 2 gallon would be a pain.

If it were me, I would go pick up a cheap, at least, 5 gallon... for the small clown.
Thanks!! Heading out to the store early in the AM to get it going.


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Old 12/10/2016, 10:52 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by new2salttanks View Post
Thanks!! Heading out to the store early in the AM to get it going.
Spend a few more bucks and get the 10 gallon for your clown - just to be safe.

Or just go ahead and get a 20-40 gallon to use to QT all of your fish.

Your clown will thank you!


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Old 12/21/2016, 10:29 AM   #154
Roadsterron
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Notorious Ick and Velvet Disease

I am not a marine biologist by no means. I do have 40 years of experience in saltwater marine reef and fish only tanks. I currently have one of each. Both being 100 gallons.
We all experience the two most dreaded diseases in this hobby line. That being ick and velvet disease. I have read almost every article and tried every method to eradicate these diseases from my tanks. Over the years one learns valuable lessons on what to try and usually have fish loss. I did too. What we have to understand that once you have these diseases and parasites in your tank they are usually there to stay. To rid these it's usually to let your tank run empty over a period of around 6 weeks. Even then if a new fish doesn't acclimate well and steps to ease stress are not taken-----BOOM it's all back.

Reef tanks are usually more resistant to these diseases if well established and regular water changes. I myself put one cup of Ruby Reef Kick Ick in my reef tank twice a week. That's only somewhat of a semi preventive step. I've had no issues in that tank. I have a Spotted Foxface, a Naso, an Atlantic Blue Tang, a Two Spot Bristle Tang, a Sebae Clown, Pygmy Angel, 7 Line Wrasse, a Mandarin and several cleaner shrimp, crab and snails. Not to mention several varieties of soft and hard corals. Pretty heavy load but I do use a Reef Octopus Skimmer and good filter media.

The fish only tank is a different animal. I have fought ick as well as velvet many times over the years. A fish only tank can be treated with copper if that's the route you rather take. Easier to catch a sick fish and put in a hospital/quarantine tank as well. A quarantine tank is very time consuming and a lot of hobbyist swear by them. Not a bad idea. In my fish only tank I have a Pink Tail Trigger, an Asfur Angel, a Horseshoe Tang, an Orange Shoulder Tang, and a clown trigger. Tangs are awful about being stressed and adding ick to your tank. They did mine. This procedure may be frowned upon by many but it's a method I use and it seems to work. It also cured popeye on my Asfur Angel.

I raised the temperature gradually to 84-85 degrees over 4-5 days. I load a good variety of foods with vitamins and garlic. This includes garlic bated pellets. I used Ruby Reef Rally each day until I notice that the diseased fish shows no signs. I also added one cup of Ruby Reef Kick Ick every other day along with the Rally. I turned off the skimmer and the UV. The tangs are doing well and the Angel as well. No signs of lesions or ick. A lot of people disagree with the effectiveness of these products and or procedures. But you have to do what works. Partial water changes are encouraged along the way. This doesn't work over night and you need patience. It took me 7 days of Rally and higher temps to see improvement. I'm not saying this will 100% work for everyone, but of all the many "fantasy miracle" drugs and methods, it works for me.

It's worth a try rather than to have an empty tank for 6 weeks. I have seen pretty good results using Cupramine too. Anything you use or try, you have to monitor the actions of the fish. I have since reduced the temp back down to 77-78 degrees. I hope this may help a frustrated individual. Whether it works for you or not all depends on your water and environment. It's the easiest of anything I've read or tried. Still no guarantee.

Good luck!!!


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Old 12/21/2016, 01:01 PM   #155
jar41
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ok,so,i have 3 fish in quarantine tank right now. already gave fendezabole and plan to wait 2 days and another round of it. should i change water after (lets say few days later)and dose cupramine even if i don't see any sings of ich? also,do i need to put water from dispay tank when changing water? thx


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Old 01/04/2017, 12:36 PM   #156
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So I've read about not returning water, filter material and rocks to the DT after it has been exposed to the QT medical tank. What about equipment? If I use my backup skimmer and hydor pumps in the QT with medication, will be able to use it again someday in a DT provided I cleaned it well?

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Old 02/13/2017, 08:18 AM   #157
RachelMathias81
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HELP.. concerned that my two Clown Fish have Ick

We have multiple small breed fish in out tank. Our two clown fish seem to have light white spots on them *looks like sand*. A year ago I had an ick problem and did the copper treatment and lost two fish. The one fish who originally had the ick was relieved of the ick. We have been having good fortune with a healthy tank that I felt comfortable adding more fish. Today my Black/White Clown and Orange Clown have these light spots. The Black/White on was behind out large rock..BUT did come out to eat and they are both swimming together. Every once awhile they swim erratically. I need to get an quarantine tank. I heard that bringing up the temperature can help. We are currently at 78 degrees with no change in temperature yet. We have 2 Fire Fish, Forktail Blenny, Algae Blenny, 3 PJ's, Yellow Clown Goby, Royal Gramma, Kaudern's Cardinal, 2 Large Emerald Crabs, 2 Turbo Snails, and Hermit Crabs. I am concern if I do the treatment.. it might hurt one them. Please HELP!!


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Old 02/13/2017, 08:45 AM   #158
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Taking a closer look. It looks more like a white fuzz *maybe fungus?" on the Black Clown fish. We have they white little fuzz spots in the shadow of our large rock. Not sure if this has anything to do with what is on our clowns.


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Old 08/30/2017, 01:47 PM   #159
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New to Hobby and Already Suffered from ICH

Hi all,

Im glad I found a forum to post to. I am fairly new, about 6 months, into the hobby. I suffered a huge loss to my tank from ICH. Had 2 clown, 2 Wrasse, and a Royal Gramma.

Gramma was added last and after she came in we noticed ICH on her about 3 weeks in. She died pretty quickly and then a domino effect killing all but my large female clown. I ended up adding a QT tank and placing my remaining clown in there and treated her. She is healthy now in the QT tank and I have added another clown in there for her to pair with. They are both real healthy.

My question is this: I have had them in QT for 3 weeks now and did a 100% water change and treated the DT. How long showed I wait to acclimate them back into the DT? I hear all types different answers.


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Old 08/30/2017, 04:36 PM   #160
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Not sure what you used to treat the display tank with, but I think the consensus is to leave the display tank fish-less for 60-75 days and you are good to go. That would be the safest bet in my opinion.


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Old 08/30/2017, 04:47 PM   #161
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Thank you for the response lagatbezan. I used a natural product that was reef friendly as I have some frags in there. I was also advised to lower my salinity to 1.020 as the ICH will have a tough time surviving that with a 100% water change.

Do you think that would make a difference in the wait time or is just simply waiting it out my best option?

Thanks!


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Old 08/30/2017, 05:09 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by D_Rock View Post
Thank you for the response lagatbezan. I used a natural product that was reef friendly as I have some frags in there. I was also advised to lower my salinity to 1.020 as the ICH will have a tough time surviving that with a 100% water change.

Do you think that would make a difference in the wait time or is just simply waiting it out my best option?

Thanks!
As far as I know there are no "Reef Safe" product that will eradicate ich from your display tank successfully. Also Ich will have no issue surviving in 1.020 salinity. It would need to be at 1.009 for at least 2-3 weeks to eradicate it, but at that level it will also kill all your corals, invets and good bacteria.
Some great reading here if you have not read it yet:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1992196


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