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Old 11/07/2017, 06:52 PM   #1
SterlingP
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Blue tang with ich

I just recently did an upgrade with my tank. My clowns and goby made it nicely over but my tang did not. Hard to get a good picture and this is his good side. Bunch of white dots. The skin looks raised around the dots. No other fish have this. Show to my fish store. Said To use copper. Said dose 40 drops per day for four days and keep the fish in there for two weeks. Everything I read here seems to be different. Wanna clarify how long and how much? Do I need a test kit?


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Old 11/07/2017, 07:32 PM   #2
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It depends on which copper you use(coppersafe vs cupramine). You do need a test kit for both. Follow the directions on whichever you choose but spread it out over a few days. All of your fish will need treated though.

Ich will need treated for 30 days and then the fish will need moved to a sterile tank. If you have already moved the other fish to the upgraded tank, you will need to pull them out and let your tank go fallow for a min of 72 days.

To better help you, give us your QT tank size. We can get you started.


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Old 11/07/2017, 08:04 PM   #3
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Right after he went in I noticed it and scooped him out couldn't of been in then tanks for more then five minutes. All fish were transferred in separate buckets and didn't use any of the water from those buckets. You really think I need to qt the rest of em? I haven't noticed any signs of ice and the fish look healthy and I thought I heard engineer goby don't do well with copper

Also the store gave me cupramine

And the qt tank I have is a 20 gal long tank 30x12x12


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Old 11/07/2017, 08:11 PM   #4
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Were they all in same tank together before?


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Old 11/07/2017, 08:20 PM   #5
SterlingP
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Yes and healthy at that point. Each bucket had a power head and heater. Only in the bucket maybe 2-3 hours. Drip for maybe hour and half the net caught em into the tank. Had a smoke and as I lit it I noticed it. Then out an into qt


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Old 11/07/2017, 08:25 PM   #6
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I really don't wanna rip my rock apart again to get my goby out


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Old 11/07/2017, 08:35 PM   #7
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Even though they're not showing signs doesn't mean they aren't carriers. Your best option would be to make a trap to retrieve the goby.

There would be no point of treating the blue tang if you aren't planning on treating the other fish. If they all shared the same tank before, they are all infected. The buckets had nothing to do with the tang getting ich.


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Old 11/07/2017, 08:40 PM   #8
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I just thought the transferring of the tank stressed the tang out. Cuz if there were sick before the transfer I can't even explain why then.


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Old 11/07/2017, 08:44 PM   #9
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I tested all the water. I had the tang in a qt tank for over three weeks. Didn't see any signs of anything on him. All were in the tank together for almost the same amount of time. The tank is by my bed I'm always watching. Water always tested fine. I had no reason to assume any were sick all ate. All were active.


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Old 11/07/2017, 08:48 PM   #10
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You are right, it probably did stress the tang and this caused his immune system to lower triggering the ich. If the ich was never present, no amount of stress would cause ich.

It is recommended that a minimum of 6 weeks of qt be given. With ich, it can take up to 72 days for the tomonts to hatch given the right conditions.


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Old 11/07/2017, 09:05 PM   #11
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So is the ich in the water? Like if drained my dt threw out my sand. Or is live rock gonna harbour it as well


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Old 11/07/2017, 10:53 PM   #12
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So I do have some fish on lay away. Was planning to grab me in a week or two. If I grab my clowns and the goby out. Qt them. Do I need to setup a separate qt for the new fish or can the be in the same tank? Two more clowns under an inch. And a tang. Paid for most of them. Just wanna be smart and not throw money down the drain. But I can qt all fish and my the time the dt is ready for fish again. Fish will be good and out qt and can introduce all at the same time?


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Old 11/07/2017, 10:55 PM   #13
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Also while there is no fish in the dt can I add more rock and corals or do I put it all in hold?


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:04 AM   #14
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Ich is in the water, the rock, the sand, etc. Draining will have no effect on ridding of it. The only way to get rid of it in a DT is by starving them out essentially.

The problem with adding more fish to a qt is that they will be behind. Ich is not super serious. Yes it does kill fish but it is a lot slower moving than velvet or brook. You could wait till you start your treatment to get the fish so they are all on the same schedule.

Yes you can add coral and more rock while you are qtíing, but your clock will restart. Anything wet(snails, hermits, corals, rock, live sand) technically needs quarantined. With coral though, the tomonts(sacs) canít attach to live flesh. The theronts(free swimming stage) though can be on them, as they only need a droplet of water.

To be 100% sure, you need to quarantine everything for a min of 72 days. There are many good stickies to read up on. It will save you a lot of money and a huge headache. Also, we are all here to help so ask us anything and we will give our best advice.


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:20 AM   #15
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You are right, it probably did stress the tang and this caused his immune system to lower triggering the ich. If the ich was never present, no amount of stress would cause ich.

It is recommended that a minimum of 6 weeks of qt be given. With ich, it can take up to 72 days for the tomonts to hatch given the right conditions.
Ich is definitely present in your tank, as stated ich can not just appear from the thin air. Yes, the stress of the move could have caused enough stress for the immunity of the fish to drop, and the slime coat to be reduced, and allowing ich to attack and take hold. Ich can live in the gills of the fish and not show any visual signs.


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Old 11/08/2017, 10:04 AM   #16
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I would catch all fish place in your qt and start treatment with cu or hypo, let the DT sit fallow 76 days do not add anything to your DT while its fallow this includes coral and inverts. When the fish store sold you cupramine they should have also sold you a seachem or salifert test kit if they did not there making a mistake cu needs to be tested everyday while in use. As far as the new fish I would explain your circumstance to the Lfs you are getting the fish from see if they are willing to sell the fish to other customers while your fallow and then reorder the fish when your ready if they won't I would probably buy another tank and qt them in it. Finally the cupramine needs to be dosed a little more accurately than seachem reccomends on the bottle. Go get a 1 ml dosing syringe from your local RX, your tank is a 20 gallon but it does not hold 20 gal when filling it measure how much water you put in it and then use this math to determine the dose for cupramine.
(.381)x(.5)x( the water volume)=your total dosage, divide this number by 5 and that is your daily dosage for 5 consecutive days. Make sure to cu levels this math will achieve.5 ppm of cu however it does not figure for absorbsion so you will need to make an adjustment based on the test results ( you will probably have to add more than the math states)


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Old 11/08/2017, 01:55 PM   #17
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I've been reading a lot in here and seen a few paying they have kept shrimp inside the tank during fallow time. From how y'all talking next few months be boring. But I also read 72 days is worst case and the chance of that strain is rare?

So any snails need to be taken out?

What about the algae in the fug? That is wet? Chaeto or something or rather close.

And if I'm waiting anyways probably good to buy fish. 4 weeks quarantine and 6 weeks watching fish seems almost 72 days? Just need to buy another at tank right?


No test kit was sold me. And the told me to only pull the tang out of my tank and proceed to sell me more fish.... soo idiots I'd say

I go buy one soon. And a ammonia warning thing I read about


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:04 PM   #18
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76 days fallow is proper time. Everything can remain in the tank except fish during fallow period ( snails corals keto ect) can all remain the ammonia thingy is a seachem ammonia alert badge. Qt time can vary from 2+ weeks it's up to you and how much risk your willing to take and how observant you are. I treat all fish prophylactically 30 days then 2 weeks prazipro and at least 1 more week observation. This is how I currently do it but I have a qt plan on the works that should cut a few weeks off the total time


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:41 PM   #19
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Ok well I'm gonna get all my clowns and the goby out. I'll throw my clowns in the qt.... but what I do with the engineer goby (Pholidychtys luecotaenia) the fancy name. He ain't got no scales so from what I understand he don't do good with copper. Am I correct?

Chances are with the fish I got on hold I can probably get them to re sell them. Atleast the tang. But the clowns I think maybe I'll grab em in goninto qt. by three months when my dt is done. Any fish I buy will be sure to be health. This will be an extended qt time for my stock list? Just maybe get a bigger qt tank.


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:43 PM   #20
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He should fine in cu I've treated gobies with cupramine before


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:43 PM   #21
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Is the seachem badge reusable or one time thing?


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Old 11/08/2017, 06:08 PM   #22
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Is the seachem badge reusable or one time thing?
There good for about 1 yr as long as they don't dry out however you may not want to reuse them because it does pose a risk of ick encysting on the surface of it. I place my just bellow the water line in my qt and I will reuse them because I feel the risk is extremely small on that piece of equipment


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Old 11/08/2017, 06:22 PM   #23
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If there as cheap as I hear I don't mind spending a 5-10 bucks for it as long as it lasts the whole qt cycle.

I'm gonna try and take a few less chances from now on lol


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Old 11/08/2017, 08:06 PM   #24
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Soo all my fish are out. And it's empty.

One question now, aren't fish an important part of a tank? Like over turning sand eating algae or pooping... so do I need to do anything special while it's empty or will it be good on its own?


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Old 11/08/2017, 09:49 PM   #25
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Fish are important yes. If you don’t really have any coral, there really isn’t much you need to do. Nitrifying bacteria will live for years without waste. There are a few products that add nitrate to your tank as well. Seachem makes one that contains potassium nitrate and I believe you can buy liquid stump remover too.


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