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Old 08/22/2017, 09:16 AM   #2201
mcbaes72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason.frew View Post
What an amazing thread to find. Ive been thinking of making a steel stand for my 7x2x2.5 Im looking to have as much open space at the front for sump access (as we all are) Do any of you guys have a design that you have used for a tank of this size?
If I could re-do my stand, I'd go over-built like this:



Plenty of space in the front, lots of extra support in the back.



Last edited by mcbaes72; 08/23/2017 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Fixed picture.
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Old 08/22/2017, 09:43 AM   #2202
jason.frew
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Originally Posted by mcbaes72 View Post
If I could re-do my stand, I'd go over-built like this:



Plenty of space in the front, lots of extra support in the back.
Hi. there was nothing linked in your post. very interested to see what your looking to do


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Old 08/22/2017, 04:00 PM   #2203
mcbaes72
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Hi. there was nothing linked in your post. very interested to see what your looking to do
That's strange, I could see picture in my post on my phone.

Other than scanning through all the pages in this thread, try this website to get a few ideas on steel stand designs.

Steel support frames


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:07 PM   #2204
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I'm genuinely curious as to why so many people are angle gusseting their corners. That's way overkill IMO and takes away from working space.

Here's my stand, its 2" x2" x1/4" wall steel square tubing powder coated matte black. It is 7'-6" long x 38.5" wide x 36" high, and yes I had the numbers run it tops out at 10,000lbs capacity before any failure.

I am designing a fastener system to adhere the hardwood panels to it but make them removable. Kind of a clip style system.





With plywood on it and sump in place (FYI that is a 100gal 4' long acrylic sump lol)
Hello ThisGuy12

Interesting design; kind of exactly what I was looking for. Why did you design it out of 3 different sections bolted together? How strong has it been since put to use? Are these bolts holding everything in a rigid fashion; ex. no frame twist etc. Do you have leveling feet for each section? Please answer, I need to have a stand that is roughly 72x34x40h in the basement but the staircase is only 30" wide. HELP!!!

Does anybody else have any ideas how much issue can be addressed?


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:12 PM   #2205
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Hello ThisGuy12

Interesting design; kind of exactly what I was looking for. Why did you design it out of 3 different sections bolted together? How strong has it been since put to use? Are these bolts holding everything in a rigid fashion; ex. no frame twist etc. Do you have leveling feet for each section? Please answer, I need to have a stand that is roughly 72x34x40h in the basement but the staircase is only 30" wide. HELP!!!

Does anybody else have any ideas how much issue can be addressed?
No twisting what so ever. I designed it as 3 sections because the full length and width wouldn't fit through my door so each section slides in sideways down the stairs and bolts together using 4 carriage bolts with lock washers and nuts per section.

It has worked just fine for the year and a half it has been running for.


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:21 PM   #2206
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No twisting what so ever. I designed it as 3 sections because the full length and width wouldn't fit through my door so each section slides in sideways down the stairs and bolts together using 4 carriage bolts with lock washers and nuts per section.

It has worked just fine for the year and a half it has been running for.
Prompt answer really appreciated.

Did you use special stainless steel fasteners or did you just paint them to resist corrosion?

What means did you use for leveling of the whole thing?


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:25 PM   #2207
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I didn't use any feet to level it because that would create pressure points. Use the foam to level the tank.

The fasteners are hot dipped galvanized to present corrosion. Make sure you powder coat the steel stand, salt and steel don't mix.


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Old 11/08/2017, 05:31 PM   #2208
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I didn't use any feet to level it because that would create pressure points. Use the foam to level the tank.

The fasteners are hot dipped galvanized to present corrosion. Make sure you powder coat the steel stand, salt and steel don't mix.
One last thing, was there a build thread? I'd love to see it.


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Old 11/09/2017, 06:55 PM   #2209
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Here is the new one for my 1200g build, had to be built in place due to size
20170930_102609 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
20170930_110254 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
20170930_110300 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
There will also be a secondary standard that is integral to the plywood build


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Old 11/14/2017, 01:07 PM   #2210
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Here is the new one for my 1200g build, had to be built in place due to size
20170930_102609 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
20170930_110254 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
20170930_110300 by Scott Chase, on Flickr
There will also be a secondary standard that is integral to the plywood build

Wow...what are the dimensions of your tank? Do you have a build thread?


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(1) 300g mixed reef (Starfire DT) + 100g Sump
(2) 100g Softie tank (Starfire DT)
My Build Thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263472
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Old 11/21/2017, 08:38 PM   #2211
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Starting to consider my design for a 84" long by 32" wide stand. I picked up a bunch of 2"x2" 1/8" wall tubes 22.5" long that I will be using for the uprights. Would 14 gauge 2x2 tubes work for the long spans or do I need 1/8" for that as well. I have enough of 2x2s for uprights and 45 degree gussets to strengthen it up.


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Old 11/21/2017, 10:45 PM   #2212
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Starting to consider my design for a 84" long by 32" wide stand. I picked up a bunch of 2"x2" 1/8" wall tubes 22.5" long that I will be using for the uprights. Would 14 gauge 2x2 tubes work for the long spans or do I need 1/8" for that as well. I have enough of 2x2s for uprights and 45 degree gussets to strengthen it up.
I would do the entire stand out of .120(1/8inch) wall 2x2. Its hard to lay a nice solid weld on the 14gauge and not burn through. Save the 2x2 and go to ebay and buy some nice 1/4plate gussets. Save time and they look nicer in my opinion.


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Old 12/30/2017, 04:38 PM   #2213
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Here is my stand just after welding. 84" by 32" by 30" 1/8" 2" square tube. Didn't use any fancy CAD but just ideas from this thread. Opinions welcome.


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Old 12/31/2017, 01:10 AM   #2214
chris.viner87
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I just changed out my 300g acrylic to 300g starfire glass. So I decided to pull out the wood stand and replace it with a steel stand. The top are 2x4 rails and most of the vertical supports are 2x2 on angle iron. It also has six leveling feet.


Looks tidy - I want to paint mine white, what paint did you use? Cheers Chris


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Old 04/28/2018, 11:30 AM   #2215
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To add Drain holes or not to add drain holes?

Does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding whether or not to drill drain holes in the bottoms of the HSS steel tubing runs in my steel stand?


I attempted to seal all the tubing ends mostly for aesthetic reasons but I worry that if I have a tank overflow or something, water may find it's way into the tubing somehow and get trapped there and rot the stand from the inside out over a long time frame. I considered drilling rain holes on the bottoms of the horizontal tubes before I get it powder coated but I hate to drill holes in my work unless there is a good reason.

Any feedback would be appreciated!


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Old 05/02/2018, 08:02 AM   #2216
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How is everyone sucering the plywood to the top and bottom
If their stands? Also wondering if what you do to seal this plywood, just a basic sealant ?
Not sure if anyone ever responded to you.

I use 1/4" flat stock and put angle mount points in the 4 corners of the top of the stand. I then drilled a hole and screwed up through it to hold the plywood in place.

Honestly, once the tank is on it, the plywood isn't going anywhere, but it helped to hold the plywood in place while sliding the tank onto the stand.

For sealing, I did 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of enamel spray paint.


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Old 05/05/2018, 09:16 PM   #2217
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Does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding whether or not to drill drain holes in the bottoms of the HSS steel tubing runs in my steel stand?


I attempted to seal all the tubing ends mostly for aesthetic reasons but I worry that if I have a tank overflow or something, water may find it's way into the tubing somehow and get trapped there and rot the stand from the inside out over a long time frame. I considered drilling rain holes on the bottoms of the horizontal tubes before I get it powder coated but I hate to drill holes in my work unless there is a good reason.

Any feedback would be appreciated!
anyone with a steel stand that can weigh in on this?


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Old 05/06/2018, 05:47 PM   #2218
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I have holes all over my stand, most are 'plugged' with screws and whatnot for stuff attached to it... So i didn't even bother capping the tubes knowing that would happen.

Unless you are flushing the insides of the tubes with inert gas while welding you will have rust forming inside anyway, eventually. It is probably 'much faster' with holes drilled in or uncapped tubes, but realistically it will fall down sometime after the silicone gives out anyway. Unless you are doing something stupid like 'washing' it with salt water daily (hello snowy north, sorry about your cars)... Even then it will take time.


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Old 05/17/2018, 04:42 PM   #2219
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Anyone know if the Flux Core 125 amp welder at Harbor Freight is enough to do the job of welding 1-1/4" 16 gauge square stock. I am trying to decide new steel stand for a 60"x24"x24" 150 gallon tank verses trying to refurbish the used home made wood one that came with it. I have Mig welded sheet metal a long time ago using shielding gas. I plan on 45 angles around the top to seal. 3-4" triangle gusset plates 1/8" thick at the 4 corners and 3/4" plywood top and sump shelf. Any suggestions or tips are very welcome. Also I am debating powdercoat costs vs other coatings if anyone has used anything else please let me know what has worked.


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Old 05/17/2018, 07:03 PM   #2220
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It would do the job technically, especially if you properly prep the mates with bevels and such. I don't know how well it will work (how smooth it works and how forgiving it is). The biggest thing is its only a 20% duty cycle machine.... It again may be enough, especially for someone not very proficient at fabricating, but it means you really should only weld for about 2 minutes every 10 minutes. It may actually work out that you don't weld more than that even if you hurry with adjusting all the joints up and such.

Get some proper welding wire though. Crap wire will really frustrate the whole process no matter how well the welder or machine works.


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Old 05/21/2018, 05:42 PM   #2221
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I have holes all over my stand, most are 'plugged' with screws and whatnot for stuff attached to it... So i didn't even bother capping the tubes knowing that would happen.

Unless you are flushing the insides of the tubes with inert gas while welding you will have rust forming inside anyway, eventually. It is probably 'much faster' with holes drilled in or uncapped tubes, but realistically it will fall down sometime after the silicone gives out anyway. Unless you are doing something stupid like 'washing' it with salt water daily (hello snowy north, sorry about your cars)... Even then it will take time.
Thanks for the feedback. Anyone else that can weigh in about drain holes in steel stands?


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Old 06/04/2018, 12:18 PM   #2222
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I'm looking at welding up a frame in a couple months for a 300 gallon and was wondering if anyone had made a frame out of stainless. I'm about 5 miles from a metal depot and they quoted me $630 for 60 feet of stainless 11 gauge 1.25 square bar stock and $270 for mild steel. Thing is, two powdercoat places quoted me in the $280 range. I could probably use marine paint or some other type of primer (does anyone have recommendations?) but I feel like it might be worth it to make it out of stainless. I welded up a stainless light stand a couple years ago and it has zero signs of corrosion.

Second question, has anyone looked at mounting the frame on wheels? I have my eye on some casters rated to 2200 lbs. I'm setting my stand in a book case and would like it if the whole stand could slide out for easy maintenance. I figure 6 of them should support a 300 gallon aquarium plus water and a 80 gallon sump. That's about 3500 lbs filled with rock and equipment? It'll be on a concrete slab so I'm not worried about moving weight on the foundation.


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