|
01/24/2018, 03:19 PM | #1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Which route to go
100 gal tank
tank age 1.5yr 200+lb of live rock 6-8in deep sand bed pH: 8.2-8.4 Nitrate: 5ppm Temp: 76-79 SG: 1.022-1.024 Ca:450 dKH:8 Sump/skimmer/hob refugium/ cheato reactor in 2days Monthly water changes Nori with garlic once daily Spirulina with selcone and garlic once daily 1-six line wrase (4 yrs) 1-Rose Bubble anemone( 4yrs) 1-Green brittle starfish (4 yrs sent to sump due to possibility of fish disapreance..........i dont even know anymore) 1-Cleaner shrimp (4yrs) 1-blood red fire shrimp (4yrs) 20+ head ducan (2yrs) 1-hoveens wrase (5 months) 1- dimon watchman goby (5 months) 2-pajama cardina fish (5 months qt and died last week) 5- chromies (5 months they all started to dissapear one by one) 5-blue dams (5months they all started to dissappear one by one and only 1 is left) 2-kavderns candinafish (5 months 1 dissapread a while ago and 1 died in qtlast week) 1-Flame angle (5months disappeard 6weks ago) 1-salfin tang(3 months died 2days ago in qt what looks like brook, excessive color lost, scratches all over body, laid on its side) 1-powder blue tang (3 months went missing 2 month) 1-powder brown tang (3 months went missing 2 month) 1-holdhead goby (1 month)) 2-pink anthias (1 month female died 1 week unknown reasons found dead, male dissapread last week) 1-Convict tang (3weeks died 2week unknow) 1-Khole Tang (3weeks disappeard 2weeks) 1- Orage spot rabbit fish (3weeks) 2-clowns (3week male died last week while in qt with salfin, male had heavy breathing and looked lazy swimming, female found today dead, dimond goby scooped her out of his home and push the body out Can someone help me in the reason why my fish are just going one by one The only fish left now is my six line wrasse, hovens wrasse, diamond goby, and orange spot rabbit fish and currently no signs of anything wrong. And my pajamas just died from what looks like ich when I qt them a couple days ago but then their fins were torn. I have a couple question 1-Would it be best just to watch everything in my tank for the next 2 months and play it by ear on removing them to ensure nothing is left in the tank or should I just remove all of them? 2-Would a UV help at all and if so what is your guys thoughts of the coralife UV?? 3-Could my green brittle star be one of the reason why for the disappeance?? He was placed in sump 3 weeks ago but fish still disappear and or die. |
01/24/2018, 09:16 PM | #2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Endicott, NY
Posts: 909
|
I had a green brittle star that was eating all of my fish before. He looked so innocent and I was told he would not be the cause of disappearing fish in my tank until we caught him red handed one night. After we removed him, the fish no longer disappeared.
__________________
90 gallon Fish only tank Current Tank Info: 90 gal tank AquaMax skimmer LED EchoTech Gen 3 lights Gyre150 RO/DI water |
01/25/2018, 08:47 AM | #3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 247
|
Some of those fish are some big fish (tangs, etc.) just to go "missing".
100 gallon tank with 200 lbs of live rock is not crazy big that you will not see those big fish everyday. You should be able to notice the exact day they are missing with that size of tank and begin looking around for them. If you can't find something a day after they disappear then something is eating them. And if they go missing in only a 100 gallon tank you will find them on the bottom or floating on the top. |
01/25/2018, 11:28 PM | #4 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Quote:
Also I would like to add that I think its a little more than 200+live rock and my tank is tall and deep and the rocks almost go everywhere....I have to rescape xP |
|
01/26/2018, 09:07 AM | #5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Endicott, NY
Posts: 909
|
You don't have a mantis shrimp hitchhiker in there somewhere do you?
Other than that, my first suggestion would be to stop buying new fish for a while and see what happens with the fish you have. Chromis in my opinion will always die one by one and be left with only the most aggressive one so that is not surprising you only have one left. Convict Tang could have not been eating? I find those to be really sensitive fish. Do you have a lid on your tank? Do you see any signs of illness with the fish you currently have? Are you buying your fish from one supplier or several?
__________________
90 gallon Fish only tank Current Tank Info: 90 gal tank AquaMax skimmer LED EchoTech Gen 3 lights Gyre150 RO/DI water Last edited by justthewife; 01/26/2018 at 09:51 AM. |
01/26/2018, 09:58 AM | #6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Endicott, NY
Posts: 909
|
Also, you could try to cut down on the garlic. Just feed with selcon and no garlic for a while. There are different opinions on feeding fish garlic. Some say it is toxic, others say it is helpful.
What was the reason you were considering a UV?
__________________
90 gallon Fish only tank Current Tank Info: 90 gal tank AquaMax skimmer LED EchoTech Gen 3 lights Gyre150 RO/DI water Last edited by justthewife; 01/26/2018 at 10:03 AM. |
01/26/2018, 10:37 AM | #7 | |||
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
|||
01/26/2018, 09:47 PM | #8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Just wondering does my tank have to be complete fallow for 76days to be sure that their is no parasite and bacteriaor or can my fish stay in and monitor for the next 3 months and if everything is good starting qt new fish to add?
|
01/27/2018, 03:51 PM | #9 |
Registered Member
|
Given the short duration you have had many of these fish, and the way some of these species will either jump or bully each other, significant mortality might be expected. However, I agree this seems excessive.
A 72+ day fallow period generally refers to the life cycle for Ich. If you don't have Ich in the tank then that duration has no particular validity. The symptoms of Ich are pretty hard to miss, so I'm assuming that's not your problem. This doesn't seem like a disease to me. Fish only occasionally develop a disease so quickly that you don't see any symptoms at all up to the day they disappear. Similarly, I would not suspect problems with water conditions. A mantis shrimp would be a perfect explanation. If you have one, chances are you will periodically hear the click it makes with its claws, even if you never actually see it. The bad news is that removing a mantis shrimp can be really difficult. Are you seeing any signs of fish being chased around? Perhaps some bruised skin, frayed tail or popeye? How about something mechanical, like an unprotected powerhead? Are you sure they are not getting sucked into your plumbing? I strong pump could pulverize a fish so it disappears. I agree with not adding any more fish until the situation stabilizes.
__________________
Stuart Current Tank Info: 300G Caribbean biotype reef set up in 2003. |
01/27/2018, 03:58 PM | #10 |
Registered Member
|
ninjastar310,
By the way... To Reef Central Sorry, I didn't notice your reference to Ich at first. Was that in quarantine before going into your DT or in your DT. If the latter then 72 days fallow is a good idea. If you have had Ich in your tank for a while and perhaps didn't recognize the symptoms, that would also explain the deaths.
__________________
Stuart Current Tank Info: 300G Caribbean biotype reef set up in 2003. |
01/28/2018, 01:57 AM | #11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
|
01/28/2018, 08:50 PM | #12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Bump for a quick id of whats might be in my tank killing everything
|
01/30/2018, 12:45 AM | #13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
So the only fish remain and caught and transfered to 29gal are the following
-pajama cardinal -six line wrasse -hoovens wrasse -Orange spot rabbit fish -goldhead goby -dimond goby Is this okay for a 29gal with a sponge filter and marineland 350 hob with 4 bricks of I think is ceramic media thats been in my tank for the past 4yrs |
01/30/2018, 01:06 AM | #14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Is it okay to add a bowl of sand for my wrasse and goby??
|
01/30/2018, 05:57 AM | #15 |
Registered Member
|
I think those fish will fit in a 29 if they are small. Monitor the ammonia closely... you will probably need to use a conditioner and/or large water changes until the filter is fully conditioned.
A bowl of sand is fine. However, if you are planning to use copper, you should choose fine silica sand (e.g., "play sand") instead of aragonite. For hypo, aragonite is fine.
__________________
Stuart Current Tank Info: 300G Caribbean biotype reef set up in 2003. |
01/30/2018, 05:11 PM | #16 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Quote:
|
|
01/30/2018, 07:00 PM | #17 |
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 2,957
|
Prime makes ammonia non-toxic, still reads on most test kits, but will not hurt the fish. Can be used in a pinch to help in hospital tanks with cycle issues.
CAUTION: Prime and most conditioners also make copper treatments more toxic to fish. Never use them together.
__________________
80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia! Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA |
01/30/2018, 08:13 PM | #18 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Quote:
Also why is it bad to have live sand in a bowl when copper is being used?? Also whats the difference between copper, paraguard, and corcupine?? |
|
01/31/2018, 05:53 AM | #19 |
Registered Member
|
It's not "live" sand that is a problem, it's the carbonate which will absorb copper ions.
The classic treatment uses copper sulphate at 0.15ppm. The other flavors are copper bound into an organic molecule, which is less toxic (thus allowing/needing a higher concentration) and stays in solution better. Note that some copper test kits don't work with these flavors. Paraguard is not copper and I doubt it works reliably.
__________________
Stuart Current Tank Info: 300G Caribbean biotype reef set up in 2003. |
01/31/2018, 07:31 AM | #20 | |
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 2,957
|
Quote:
__________________
80g Aiptasia dominated reef tank.. with fish and now a bunch of berghia! Current Tank Info: 80g tank, re-starting a reef after a zoanthid nudibranch plauge, followed by months of steady and unstoppable STN/RTN, crashed; stayed FOWLR for a couple years, currently an aiptasia dominated reef tank with fishies and BERGHIA |
|
01/31/2018, 03:01 PM | #21 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Quote:
Finally put sand it the hovens wrasse finally calmed down but the dimond goby is worrying me and the orange spotted rabbit fish hasnt went back to its normal colors yet.. |
|
02/02/2018, 11:28 PM | #22 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Quote:
Quote:
|
||
02/02/2018, 11:59 PM | #23 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Does dosing stressguard help before dosing??
|
02/03/2018, 06:12 AM | #24 | |
Registered Member
|
Quote:
__________________
Stuart Current Tank Info: 300G Caribbean biotype reef set up in 2003. |
|
02/03/2018, 03:59 PM | #25 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 19
|
Quote:
|
|
Thread Tools | |
|
|