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Old 02/06/2018, 03:58 PM   #1
juanmanuelsanch
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How to keep a clean a QT?

So this is the second time I have to go through this. Usually I have my fish, everything seems great. But the water color starts to turn Yellow and the biofilm is really gaining pace. So the QT looks dirty.

Which is your secret to keep it as clean as possible taking into account you have to dose medicine.

Also if you are dosing cupramine like me... Which is the best test kit to read ammonia since most of them will give a false reading.

Thanks in advance.



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Last edited by juanmanuelsanch; 02/06/2018 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 02/07/2018, 08:52 AM   #2
Diana A
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i dump the water and add tap water with bleach. i let the filter on QT run for 24 hours. Rinse and let air dry. If you need to use right away then add some Prime with rodi water for a few hours and then dump water and add saltwater


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Old 02/07/2018, 09:22 AM   #3
ca1ore
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How do you have your QT setup? Are aesthetics all that important for a QT tank; or are you having losses? I generally don't medicate prophylactically, only when a problem emerges. Use a seeded HoB power filter, maybe a powerhead and you should be good.


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Old 02/07/2018, 09:57 AM   #4
juanmanuelsanch
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I have a canister filter already seeded. A power head and a air stone in case air is necessary.

The problem is that if the water is too cloudy or the whole tank is dirty I can't see in detail the fish. So if a problem comes I might not see it.

And yes I usually have cupramine running in it always.

Thanks for the help.

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Old 02/08/2018, 12:56 PM   #5
scooter31707
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Sounds like you may have bacterial or algae bloom. Changing water will make it worst.


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Old 02/08/2018, 01:28 PM   #6
juanmanuelsanch
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What could eliminate it?

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Old 02/08/2018, 02:03 PM   #7
billdogg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ca1ore View Post
How do you have your QT setup? Are aesthetics all that important for a QT tank; or are you having losses? I generally don't medicate prophylactically, only when a problem emerges. Use a seeded HoB power filter, maybe a powerhead and you should be good.
^^^This^^^

The ONLY thing I give prophylactically is Prazipro - it won't harm the fish in any way even if it isn't needed so it can't possibly hurt. I haven't used copper in at least 20 years. I really cannot think of a good reason to do so.

As for keeping the QT clean while in use - vacuum up the uneaten food daily, and water changes at least every other day from my frag tank so it then gets a water change as well.

After use, as mentioned above - a little bleach in the water and then rinse and let it air dry.


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Old 02/08/2018, 03:29 PM   #8
mako61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billdogg View Post
^^^This^^^

The ONLY thing I give prophylactically is Prazipro - it won't harm the fish in any way even if it isn't needed so it can't possibly hurt. I haven't used copper in at least 20 years. I really cannot think of a good reason to do so.

As for keeping the QT clean while in use - vacuum up the uneaten food daily, and water changes at least every other day from my frag tank so it then gets a water change as well.

After use, as mentioned above - a little bleach in the water and then rinse and let it air dry.
Other than TTM is there anything you do for Ick.


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Old 02/08/2018, 04:23 PM   #9
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Nope. IMHO, TTM is by far the least stressful way of ridding your fish of the Ich parasite. Properly done (see the sticky at the top of this page) it is also 100% effective.

Although copper can kill the parasite, it is only effective at a carefully monitored dosage that has been shown to be, at best, difficult for most fish to endure. If the concentration is too low, it will not solve the problem. If the dosage is too high, it will take care of the problem by killing your fish.

Hyposalinity can also work, but is difficult to do effectively.

There are exactly ZERO reef-safe medications that will cure your fish of Ich.


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Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef with 40b sump, ASM G2 skimmer, AI Sol Blue x 2, and a 60g Frag Tank with 100g rubbermaid sump. 2 x Kessil A360w lights, no skimmer (yet)
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Old 02/08/2018, 06:22 PM   #10
monkeysee1
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Can I chime in?
You can try running some carbon (ONLY when you're NOT medicating your fish course) and some Rowa Phos in little separate mesh bags to keep the water clean and clear and the algae under control.
Remember - remove the carbon when you are medicating, put it back in when you're finished. A quarantine tank is for OBSERVATION as much as it is for treatment; you shouldn't treat new fish UNLESS symptoms of illness show.

P.S. - I use Red Sea test kits, including the one for Ammonia. Never had a problem with them.


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Old 02/08/2018, 06:26 PM   #11
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Just out of curiosity is all this REALLY needed? Isn't a happy healthy home the remedy? (right off the bat) Don't get me wrong I've lost some fish along the way, but not enough to set up a QT. Just saying... GL.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/ft/index.php


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Old 02/08/2018, 08:33 PM   #12
juanmanuelsanch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haunt View Post
Just out of curiosity is all this REALLY needed? Isn't a happy healthy home the remedy? (right off the bat) Don't get me wrong I've lost some fish along the way, but not enough to set up a QT. Just saying... GL.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/ft/index.php
I have lost fish due to ich and velvet. I had to learn the hard way that you need a QT to prevent diseases.



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Old 02/08/2018, 09:40 PM   #13
mako61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haunt View Post
Just out of curiosity is all this REALLY needed? Isn't a happy healthy home the remedy? (right off the bat) Don't get me wrong I've lost some fish along the way, but not enough to set up a QT. Just saying... GL.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-02/ft/index.php
The current fish I just got arrived in 1.012 SG water and barely alive. No way he would be alive in my DT @ 1.025. Pretty sure he has ich to boot.

I look at QT as cheap insurance. Best $100 I ever spent.


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