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03/08/2018, 12:32 AM | #1 |
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Ammonia after RO/DI System.
Bought a new RO/DI from Bulk reef Supply. (BRS 6 Stage plus water saver W/ 2 DI resin chambers. I am running on a well. I have 147 tds tap water. 9 tds after prefilters. 0 tds after first resin cartridge and of course 0 tds after 2nd cartridge. this is my 3rd Ro/DI system because the first was a cheap one. the second one gave the ammonia reading in the R/O water So i bought the biggest badest RO/system I could find. its been running on a ro buddy pump at 60 psi for 3 hours and have made about 15 gallons. I have a .025 ammonia reading. Any help would be apreciated as my corals have been without a water change and the need it due to high nitrates in the tank.
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03/08/2018, 01:23 AM | #2 |
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You probably didn't get a chloramine block. Chloramine is in your source water and that's why you have ammonia.
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03/08/2018, 02:14 AM | #3 | |
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+1 Gah, chloramines are such a PITA. It seems like more and more water sources are using them too.
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03/08/2018, 07:58 AM | #4 |
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Even though im on well water and not city water?
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03/08/2018, 08:04 AM | #5 |
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Then no, it’s not likely chloramines. I’m not too sure about well water and what you might possibly need to filter out of it. I would talk to Buckeye Hydro and see if you need a special filter. Is this right after the DI stage and before you add salt that you’re getting the ammonia reading? Is it possible to have a LFS doublecheck your test?
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03/08/2018, 08:16 AM | #6 |
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0.025ppm? I would count that as zero. How are you testing for ammonia?
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03/08/2018, 08:25 AM | #7 |
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Testing error IMO..
I want to assume API test kit and that they meant .25 but we can wait for the answer to nereefpats question.. and have you tested your tap water for ammonia too? (prior to filtration?)
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03/08/2018, 09:31 AM | #8 |
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You should not have ammonia in your well water unless you are on a farm with excessive fertilizers or animal waste. Are you rural? On a farm? Nearby farm?
Second point: The filter ratings are extremely important. The "unit" is not as important as the filters. Not all filters are created equal. .5 micron absolute is different than .5 micron nominal. You want to make sure your filters are absolute rated.
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03/08/2018, 09:46 AM | #9 |
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Where are you storing your water.
I would check your water directly. Let it drip into the test tube. Then check the water in the container after it’s been sitting for a while. A few people have reported ammonia in water from their holding containers, do a search for the threads. I don’t know if anyone ever figured it out.
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Quitters never lose. [QUOTE=CStrickland]Who gets mad at a starfish?[/QUOTE] Current Tank Info: 75g DT, 30G refugium, 10g chaeto tank, 50g stock tank basement sump |
03/08/2018, 10:50 AM | #10 |
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I do live near a farm but im up hill from it. I only get nitrates out of the tap. I get .25 ammonia strait from R/O unit. I get between 5.0 and 1.0 from Brute trash can when full. Afraid to use the water even if I add prime. 1 micron R/Osave.Z sediment filter, 2 x 1 Micron Universal Carbon block, 2 x 75 gpd dow filmtech RO membrane, 2 x dual color changing DI Resin. the filters came from bulk reef supply with the unit.
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03/08/2018, 11:54 AM | #11 |
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Yeah that sounds like the same problem other people have had.
Did you find the threads?
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Quitters never lose. [QUOTE=CStrickland]Who gets mad at a starfish?[/QUOTE] Current Tank Info: 75g DT, 30G refugium, 10g chaeto tank, 50g stock tank basement sump |
03/08/2018, 12:26 PM | #12 |
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Ever washed the brute cans out?
Keep them tightly covered?
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03/08/2018, 12:36 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
We need some of the water experts to chime in: BuckeyeHydro, Spectrapure, AZDesertrat.
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03/08/2018, 02:50 PM | #14 |
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It is a new RO DI installed last night. resin should not be depleated or I need to quit this hobby. I rinsed yhe brute out when i got it
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03/08/2018, 02:58 PM | #15 |
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And when did you get it? 3 years ago? 3 days?
Also do you keep it covered? Did you ever answer what product you are using for ammonia testing either? API test kit? something else? what? Did you test your well water for ammonia? We are trying to help and the answers to ALL the questions are necessary for us to do so.. Not just a few of them.. ALL questions.. Each one could hold the clue to the answer..
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03/08/2018, 03:03 PM | #16 |
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I did test for chlorimines and chlorine with none present
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03/08/2018, 03:18 PM | #17 |
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So your tap has no ammonia?
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Quitters never lose. [QUOTE=CStrickland]Who gets mad at a starfish?[/QUOTE] Current Tank Info: 75g DT, 30G refugium, 10g chaeto tank, 50g stock tank basement sump |
03/08/2018, 03:31 PM | #18 |
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nope. no ammonia
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03/08/2018, 04:15 PM | #19 |
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You should post a new question in the reef chemistry forum using the information and answers from this thread.
Either your test kit is wrong, or there is a substance making it through the RO membrane and resin that is breaking down to ammonia. I'm no chemist, so I'm at a loss.
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03/08/2018, 04:19 PM | #20 |
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And the rest of the answers to the questions I asked are???
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03/09/2018, 09:32 PM | #21 |
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problem has been solved. 3 bad test kits later.......no ammonia. and yes they were api as these were the only test kits available to me
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03/09/2018, 10:09 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
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300g custom acrylic from James 72x36x27, 4 Mitras Lx7 &6 a360, 2 Stream 3s, C2C beananimal. 100g sump, Jebao DCP- 8000 (Vectra M1 died) -> 114w aquauv -> SRO 5000ext , varios8 return Current Tank Info: Me v Dinos - I'm winning for now... |
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03/20/2018, 05:43 AM | #23 | ||
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Quote:
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Russ |
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03/20/2018, 07:10 AM | #24 | ||
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Quote:
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Pat Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers |
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