2300G Cylinder - Preview - Page 5

mxett · 09/20/2008, 07:56 PM

Very cool, I think the MASOV might be focussed around the SW side of Melbourne soon LOL

H20ENG · 09/20/2008, 08:00 PM

Diablo,
You may consider adding an Oceansmotions 4 way to your closed loop plumbing to keep the bottom well stirred up. Your surges will give good flow when they fire, but you also want to keep the detritus in suspension and feeding the corals.

Diablo · 09/20/2008, 09:03 PM

H2OENG, I hadn't actually planned on a closed loop. The vast majority of internal circulation I intend to provide using 2 DIY propeller pumps... will look a bit like this:

The propellers are 8" mixing propellers, rotated at 400RPM. In theory, these should give me 40,000 Gal / hr each for under 200W power usage. I am prototyping with stainless steel, but if it all works as planned, I will have propellers cast in titanium.

H20ENG · 09/20/2008, 09:12 PM

I drew up something similar years ago, but never tried it. Those are big props!
Now, run your motor shaft through a support pipe that is attached to one of these damper motors so you can rotate your outputs

Johan Susanto · 09/23/2008, 11:24 PM

Very nice mega project mate. hey Diablo do you have problem with city council by putting such big system on your house??
which suburb do u live? i was live in toorak area

mortis13 · 09/26/2008, 12:08 AM

nice man, dangerously nice!
i thought my 300gal project was sick, it could be your fuge.
cheers kev.

chudsosoft · 09/26/2008, 01:05 AM

I'm going to go ahead and subscribe to this... and then go change my shorts.

Diablo · 09/26/2008, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Very nice mega project mate. hey Diablo do you have problem with city council by putting such big system on your house??

Thanks Johan! We have saying where I work: "Easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission"

You must have lived well while in Australia! Toorak is a nice area. I am actually in Geelong, 75km south west of Melbourne. I work in Melbourne though.

Quote:

nice man, dangerously nice! i thought my 300gal project was sick, it could be your fuge.

Nah... my 'fuge will only be 200Gal

Kev, do youhave a link to any of your plans or are you finished? I would love to see. My last tank was about 300 Gal.

Quote:

I'm going to go ahead and subscribe to this... and then go change my shorts.

I am flattered by your prioritization

Not much progress this week, although I am closer to sourcing my backup generator. Have recieved quotes for pumps and they are slightly better than expected.

Speaking with My Reef Creations about doing all my water quality gear, including a volcano-stype needle wheel skimmer.

amehel0 · 09/26/2008, 03:44 AM

man im proud to be an aussie now!!!!(prouder then before anyway!!)

Johan Susanto · 09/26/2008, 07:32 AM

wow just realise got many aussie reefer out there, cause as i know very hard to get coral in aussie,due to rules.

Johan Susanto · 09/26/2008, 07:40 AM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Diablo
[B]Thanks Johan! We have saying where I work: "Easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission"
Ha..ha...ha good idea mate.

You must have lived well while in Australia! Toorak is a nice area. I am actually in Geelong, 75km south west of Melbourne. I work in Melbourne though.

not really mate,as a chef working hours is big problem,especially when then short staff, have to cover they butt.

btw how u going the project,any photo taken.

mortis13 · 09/26/2008, 07:03 PM

only 200gal?
no diablo im not done yet, i have ordered the tank(7ftx30inx30in) and i have built the stand and have gathered a few bits to go under it.

im going to get rid of the bio balls and load it with LR. lights 3x 250w MH & 12x 24w t5`s, what did you run?

Adrianvh · 09/26/2008, 07:27 PM

My advice mortis would be unless your going fish only, ditch the bio balls.

Otty · 09/26/2008, 07:35 PM

Are those 3 coil denitrators in the tank stand??

jnarowe · 09/26/2008, 08:17 PM

Very interesting project. I like the home design except for the distance between the parking area and the kitchen. I am sure you mulled this over, but that will add a lot of traffic to your study.

The round tank is interesting and I am very curious how much distortion there will be with the round 1.5" material. I know it gets less with size so it really may be no issue at all.

Many have commented already but I would seriously reconsider your QT/Hospital tank situation. These should NEVER be connected to your main in any manner, whether you feel "safe" with the valving and bypasses. You mentioned using them more for acclimation and I would encourage you to use a design more like mine.

I have an isolated QT tank with its own filtration, skimmer, lighting, etc. and most importantly (IMO) automated top-off. This is a multi-use tank for all inbound corals and fish, as well as a grow-out tank for snails. I have another spare tank should I need to get aggressive with meds, but as a rule, I don't do this anyway.

Now for the acclimation part of the process, I have a line going from my elevated refugium to a gate valve, and then a float valve mounted on the QT tank. After about a month of QT, observation, feeding etc. I will slowly fill the QT with system water by opening the gate valve, and drawing off about a gallon of the QT water per day. It re-fills with system water and I usually do this process for about a week.

This provides excellent acclimation while allowing the fish to be in a relaxing environment. That way, when they go into the main, all they have to worry about is being eaten!

I also use a T-5 array that allows for different types of lights to be on or off. So I can adjust lighting based on what is in the QT.

I will PM you about another issue that I don't want to get flamed over. Good work so far, and keep refining the design.

TriGa22 · 09/26/2008, 09:14 PM

Going to be quite the tank!

jnarowe · 09/26/2008, 09:30 PM

Correction: I draw off a gallon at a time 2 - 3 times per day, and do that for a week.

mortis13 · 09/27/2008, 05:33 AM

yes i think i will chuck the bio balls and do the LR, and yes they are coil denitrators. i copied them of the DIY section of this forum, i thought that if 1 is good then 3 must be real good

sorry diablo, take it away my friend.

Johan Susanto · 09/27/2008, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mortis13
yes i think i will chuck the bio balls and do the LR, and yes they are coil denitrators. i copied them of the DIY section of this forum, i thought that if 1 is good then 3 must be real good
sorry diablo, take it away my friend.

Hi mortis i reckon u should cover the coil denit from light, to avoid algae growing inside the hose, if growing algae soon or later will slow then blocking the flow.
my twin denit with acrylic chamber use black hose

mortis13 · 09/27/2008, 09:54 PM

good call, i may spray paint them black.

Outerbank · 09/27/2008, 11:02 PM

I just found this thread. Looks great and I will be following along.

Regarding QTs, you have probably already thought of this, but I would plumb them with the ability to close them off from the main tank. That way, you can exchange the water when you want. Also, I would have a drain under the Q tanks so you can directly drain them if you need to do water changes when quarentining fish (such as with hypo). I would have a faucet with RO unit by the Q tank so you can easily have assess to water.

Do you have a place to store a lot of saltwater? I would have it plumbed to use gravity drains to do water changes so water can be changed and added simply with the turn of a valve.

iansilv · 09/28/2008, 12:25 AM

Diablo- nice tank- now in the home plan, i see a couple of VW beetles- is that hte best you can do for the garage?

LondonDragon · 09/28/2008, 06:53 AM

After looking at the house plan it seems a waste that when you are in the study you can't see the tank, I would rather see it in the study area than in the entry hall. Looks awsome man, wish I could do something like this one day! Can only dream hehe
Keep us posted

mortis13 · 09/28/2008, 07:06 AM

when does the tank rock up? i need to see this swimming pool of yours.

zfish · 09/28/2008, 11:59 PM

Very interesting build. I love your floor plan. 2 cents I would add to this is to make sure you have union connectors for all your valves, pumps, heat exchangers, uv, ozone, etc. so that they can be easily remove for maintenance. Also, adding a small drain valve/line to sewer for each of the 4" main drain would make cleaning chore go much easier. Especially if you plan to fill your main drains with vinegar or other cleaning fluids.

09/26/2008, 12:08 AM	#106
mortis13 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: melbourne australia Posts: 205	nice man, dangerously nice! i thought my 300gal project was sick, it could be your fuge. cheers kev. __________________ that was then, this is now. Current Tank Info: 180 gal

09/26/2008, 03:44 AM	#109
amehel0 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Brisbane, QLD, Australia Posts: 232	man im proud to be an aussie now!!!!(prouder then before anyway!!) __________________ AUSSIE NATIVE PREDATORY FISH ROK!! 1100g 170g 90g 40g Current Tank Info: 170g 90g packed with aussie natives highly filtered, 40g a few natives and a few oddballs, i mainly keep predatory fish and 1100g is a pond and has barramundi and mor enatives in it

09/26/2008, 07:03 PM	#112
mortis13 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: melbourne australia Posts: 205	only 200gal? no diablo im not done yet, i have ordered the tank(7ftx30inx30in) and i have built the stand and have gathered a few bits to go under it. im going to get rid of the bio balls and load it with LR. lights 3x 250w MH & 12x 24w t5`s, what did you run? __________________ that was then, this is now. Current Tank Info: 180 gal

09/26/2008, 07:35 PM	#114
Otty Bikers are a dying breed Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Eliazbethtown, IN Posts: 141	Are those 3 coil denitrators in the tank stand?? __________________ Scott Current Tank Info: 265g (Peninsula) 3x400w MH's, 4x95w Actinics, PM Bullet 3 Skimmer, OM 4-way CL, WavySea for return, Kalk Rctr, KNOP Ca Rctr w/PM 2nd Chamber, PM PO4 Rctr, TradeWinds Chiller, ACIII Controller, DelZone O3, 75g Sump, 30g Fuge

09/26/2008, 08:17 PM	#115
jnarowe Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Poulsbo, WA Posts: 14,742	Very interesting project. I like the home design except for the distance between the parking area and the kitchen. I am sure you mulled this over, but that will add a lot of traffic to your study. The round tank is interesting and I am very curious how much distortion there will be with the round 1.5" material. I know it gets less with size so it really may be no issue at all. Many have commented already but I would seriously reconsider your QT/Hospital tank situation. These should NEVER be connected to your main in any manner, whether you feel "safe" with the valving and bypasses. You mentioned using them more for acclimation and I would encourage you to use a design more like mine. I have an isolated QT tank with its own filtration, skimmer, lighting, etc. and most importantly (IMO) automated top-off. This is a multi-use tank for all inbound corals and fish, as well as a grow-out tank for snails. I have another spare tank should I need to get aggressive with meds, but as a rule, I don't do this anyway. Now for the acclimation part of the process, I have a line going from my elevated refugium to a gate valve, and then a float valve mounted on the QT tank. After about a month of QT, observation, feeding etc. I will slowly fill the QT with system water by opening the gate valve, and drawing off about a gallon of the QT water per day. It re-fills with system water and I usually do this process for about a week. This provides excellent acclimation while allowing the fish to be in a relaxing environment. That way, when they go into the main, all they have to worry about is being eaten! I also use a T-5 array that allows for different types of lights to be on or off. So I can adjust lighting based on what is in the QT. I will PM you about another issue that I don't want to get flamed over. Good work so far, and keep refining the design. __________________ Jonathan--Recovering Tankaholic. Current Tank Info: 70g fresh planted

09/20/2008, 07:56 PM	#101
mxett Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 346	Very cool, I think the MASOV might be focussed around the SW side of Melbourne soon LOL

09/20/2008, 08:00 PM	#102
H20ENG Neomeris Farmer 8( Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: NORCAL (Vacaville, CA) Posts: 5,094	Diablo, You may consider adding an Oceansmotions 4 way to your closed loop plumbing to keep the bottom well stirred up. Your surges will give good flow when they fire, but you also want to keep the detritus in suspension and feeding the corals.

09/20/2008, 09:03 PM	#103
Diablo Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 215	H2OENG, I hadn't actually planned on a closed loop. The vast majority of internal circulation I intend to provide using 2 DIY propeller pumps... will look a bit like this: The propellers are 8" mixing propellers, rotated at 400RPM. In theory, these should give me 40,000 Gal / hr each for under 200W power usage. I am prototyping with stainless steel, but if it all works as planned, I will have propellers cast in titanium.

09/20/2008, 09:12 PM	#104
H20ENG Neomeris Farmer 8( Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: NORCAL (Vacaville, CA) Posts: 5,094	I drew up something similar years ago, but never tried it. Those are big props! Now, run your motor shaft through a support pipe that is attached to one of these damper motors so you can rotate your outputs

09/23/2008, 11:24 PM	#105
Johan Susanto Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sulawesi Posts: 204	Very nice mega project mate. hey Diablo do you have problem with city council by putting such big system on your house?? which suburb do u live? i was live in toorak area

09/26/2008, 01:05 AM	#107
chudsosoft Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 66	I'm going to go ahead and subscribe to this... and then go change my shorts.

09/26/2008, 07:32 AM	#110
Johan Susanto Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sulawesi Posts: 204	wow just realise got many aussie reefer out there, cause as i know very hard to get coral in aussie,due to rules.

09/26/2008, 07:40 AM	#111
Johan Susanto Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Sulawesi Posts: 204	[QUOTE]Originally posted by Diablo [B]Thanks Johan! We have saying where I work: "Easier to beg forgiveness than ask permission" Ha..ha...ha good idea mate. You must have lived well while in Australia! Toorak is a nice area. I am actually in Geelong, 75km south west of Melbourne. I work in Melbourne though. not really mate,as a chef working hours is big problem,especially when then short staff, have to cover they butt. btw how u going the project,any photo taken.

09/26/2008, 07:27 PM	#113
Adrianvh Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 19	My advice mortis would be unless your going fish only, ditch the bio balls.

09/26/2008, 09:14 PM	#116
TriGa22 Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 257	Going to be quite the tank! __________________ 75 Gallon FO with Instant Reef Decoration 10 Gallon Custom MINI Reef with 70 watt MH Current Tank Info: 29 gallon reef 8 Gallon Biocube

09/26/2008, 09:30 PM	#117
jnarowe Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Poulsbo, WA Posts: 14,742	Correction: I draw off a gallon at a time 2 - 3 times per day, and do that for a week. __________________ Jonathan--Recovering Tankaholic. Current Tank Info: 70g fresh planted

09/27/2008, 05:33 AM	#118
mortis13 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: melbourne australia Posts: 205	yes i think i will chuck the bio balls and do the LR, and yes they are coil denitrators. i copied them of the DIY section of this forum, i thought that if 1 is good then 3 must be real good sorry diablo, take it away my friend. __________________ that was then, this is now. Current Tank Info: 180 gal

09/27/2008, 09:54 PM	#120
mortis13 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: melbourne australia Posts: 205	good call, i may spray paint them black. __________________ that was then, this is now. Current Tank Info: 180 gal

09/27/2008, 11:02 PM	#121
Outerbank Registered Member Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Texas Posts: 1,169	I just found this thread. Looks great and I will be following along. Regarding QTs, you have probably already thought of this, but I would plumb them with the ability to close them off from the main tank. That way, you can exchange the water when you want. Also, I would have a drain under the Q tanks so you can directly drain them if you need to do water changes when quarentining fish (such as with hypo). I would have a faucet with RO unit by the Q tank so you can easily have assess to water. Do you have a place to store a lot of saltwater? I would have it plumbed to use gravity drains to do water changes so water can be changed and added simply with the turn of a valve. __________________ Scott Current Tank Info: 240 gallon. 19 year old tank raised ocellaris pair, 17 year old yellow tang, 4 yr old moorish idol, Potters angel, allen damsel, flame hawk, fridmani pseudo, 2yr old regal angel, SPS, 5yr old H. Magnifica

09/28/2008, 12:25 AM	#122
iansilv Premium Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 58	Diablo- nice tank- now in the home plan, i see a couple of VW beetles- is that hte best you can do for the garage?

09/28/2008, 06:53 AM	#123
LondonDragon Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: London, UK Posts: 4	After looking at the house plan it seems a waste that when you are in the study you can't see the tank, I would rather see it in the study area than in the entry hall. Looks awsome man, wish I could do something like this one day! Can only dream hehe Keep us posted

09/28/2008, 07:06 AM	#124
mortis13 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: melbourne australia Posts: 205	when does the tank rock up? i need to see this swimming pool of yours. __________________ that was then, this is now. Current Tank Info: 180 gal

09/28/2008, 11:59 PM	#125
zfish Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: San Franicsco Bay Area Posts: 42	Very interesting build. I love your floor plan. 2 cents I would add to this is to make sure you have union connectors for all your valves, pumps, heat exchangers, uv, ozone, etc. so that they can be easily remove for maintenance. Also, adding a small drain valve/line to sewer for each of the 4" main drain would make cleaning chore go much easier. Especially if you plan to fill your main drains with vinegar or other cleaning fluids.