Is it about time to change the T5 light bulbs? Par meter readings - Page 6

sanababit · 09/07/2009, 05:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by kangym
I pass the par meter to local reef club members to test their lighting. It won't be back for another two weeks. Will post the new reading as soon as I get the meter back.
Still looking for par reading under 80W T5 lighting. eros just got a new 24in T5 lighting. It will be interesting to see another 24w T5 tank par reading soon.

so kangym, since you changed your bulbs have you seen a difference in colors?, i am on the 8 month mark on my t5 ati fixture and my corals are pale or brown and i am thinking of changing them put pretty soon

sana

chefzif · 09/07/2009, 06:04 PM

Very nice tank layout!

eros · 09/07/2009, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sanababit
so kangym, since you changed your bulbs have you seen a difference in colors?, i am on the 8 month mark on my t5 ati fixture and my corals are pale or brown and i am thinking of changing them put pretty soon

sana

I think Grim answered this best on the first page of this thread:

Quote:

Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
9 months is probably a little early but if you want peak performance probably about right.

If your colors are pale and brown you have other problems with your tank. 8 month old bulbs are not to blame. I saw Kangym's tank before and after the bulb change and it was undeniably beautiful both times.

kangym · 09/07/2009, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sanababit
so kangym, since you changed your bulbs have you seen a difference in colors?, i am on the 8 month mark on my t5 ati fixture and my corals are pale or brown and i am thinking of changing them put pretty soon

sana

Yes, I saw the color enhancement right after I replaced with the new lamps. Just like you put new paints on an old picture. A few days later, I saw more white growing tip popped out. Although the par readings were pretty good at 10 months old lamps, I will replace them at 9 to 10 months interval next time. According to Grim, besides the par measurement, spectrum is another factor affects the T5 lamp performance.

kangym · 09/07/2009, 10:15 PM

Thanks chefzif, eros.
Color is a very big topic. I am still learning on how to bring the color out. I've tried different lighting, light bulb combination, different water parameters (pH, alkalinity), additives (amino acid HC, coral vitalizer, Zeospur2, Roti-feast, Oyster-feast, K-balance, B-balance, Zeospur macroelements, SPG...........). Be honest, I don't know! IME. I can see the color enhancement right after I
1. replace the new T5 lamps and
2. dosing with Zeospur2.

kangym · 09/19/2009, 07:42 PM

Just get the par meter back. Here are the new par reading at 3 months old T5 lamps. Everything is the same. For easy comparison, I put par readings of 2 weeks old lamps and 3 months new readings next to each other.

Par reading of 2 weeks old T5 lamps

Par reading of 3 months old T5 lamps

kangym · 09/19/2009, 07:48 PM

I have some tank mishap a few days ago. The overnight power blackout costs me all the fishes, and the RTN forces me to trim or remove some of them. The tank looks a little bit out of shape. As you can see in the picture, no fish, no nemo blasts the sand. It is a low nutrition and peaceful tank now.

kangym · 09/19/2009, 07:52 PM

The new par readings still look good. Generally, it drops 5 to 10% in 3 months. No plan to lower the light fixture yet.

sanababit · 09/20/2009, 12:04 AM

Hi kangym, can i ask you if the old bulbs you replaced had burnt or black look at the ends or tips and if the new ones have them too at the 3 month mark?, all my bulbs have black ends, maybe that is the sign for them to be changed, i sure wish i had a par meter, one more question did your friend that borrowed your par meter has t5 also, and how did he do on the readings?..

sana

tufacody · 09/20/2009, 09:14 AM

I know this thread isn't necessarily about cost of MH v. T5, but changing out 8 bulbs or more every 8 mos would sure seem to eat up that electric bill savings pretty quickly.

I'm glad I read this thread, I'm going to stick with MH for my new system.

kangym · 09/20/2009, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sanababit
Hi kangym, can i ask you if the old bulbs you replaced had burnt or black look at the ends or tips and if the new ones have them too at the 3 month mark?, all my bulbs have black ends, maybe that is the sign for them to be changed, i sure wish i had a par meter, one more question did your friend that borrowed your par meter has t5 also, and how did he do on the readings?..

sana

I check my 3 months 54W T5 bulbs. None of them has black burn mark. I also check my old T5 bulbs (10 months old) in the garage, some of them do have pretty bad black burn mark. I remember these bulbs with black burn mark were cause by salt water splash when I lowered the fixture down. But I also see 4 to 5 bulbs (10 months old) has no black burn mark at all. So the black burn mark may not be a good indicator for bulb changing.

Good news is we might see some par readings of 8 x 80W ATI PM pretty soon. A local reef club member is running this fixture, and he promises to chime in.

kangym · 09/20/2009, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by tufacody
I know this thread isn't necessarily about cost of MH v. T5, but changing out 8 bulbs or more every 8 mos would sure seem to eat up that electric bill savings pretty quickly.

I'm glad I read this thread, I'm going to stick with MH for my new system.

The purpose of this thread is focused on par readings on all kinds of T5 light fixtures. and hopefully becomes a good reference thread for anyone who is interesting to know the par before they jump into T5 or purchase the t5 light fixture.
Personally, I save at least 600 to 800 bucks a year after switch to T5. MH vs T5,..... oh......., please not in this thread.

tufacody · 09/20/2009, 03:44 PM

Sorry, it was not my intention to sidetrack the thread, but if the PAR value decreases so significantly as to require bulb replacement every 8 months, how are you saving so much money over MH? A 36" 8 bulb T5 fixture is consuming 312 watts, no? Shouldn't that be more expensive that a 250 watt halide? Then if you figure in the bulbs costs, doesnt the T5 just up even more in cost to run? Then if you figure in the that the MH fixture is cheaper... even more savings.

I'm not saying I am right, I am just curious where the savings is coming from. The only variable I can see is if you have to run a chiller, which luckily with a basement system in MN I don't have to do.

kangym · 09/20/2009, 04:55 PM

Yes, you are correct. I am at central valley of CA. Two 400W MH heated up my system quickly and activated the chiller 2 to 3 times a day. My elec. bill reduced almost over 100 bucks every month after switched to T5. T5 or MH, it is just personal preference.
As for par, if you see the par reading of 10 months old bulbs. I will say it is still very impressive. It is even higher than many 250W MH reading. But I will never say one is better than the other.

tufacody · 09/20/2009, 07:11 PM

Yea, I wasn't trying to push a preferance either, just curious about how you were getting the cost savings. It seems that if you don't need a chiller, MH is in fact the cheaper alternative.

eros · 09/20/2009, 08:47 PM

It's not all about cost. T5 and Halides are 2 very different beasts and both are great in their own way. The T5 vs Halide thing has been done to death, they are both winners. If we want to go into it in more detail we can start a separate thread, or post our opinion in one of the hundreds that have already been started...

Denadai · 09/24/2009, 08:16 PM

update ?

kangym · 09/29/2009, 10:21 AM

New reading coming soon.

kangym · 09/30/2009, 12:12 PM

New par reading for 265G with two ATI PM 8 x 39W at 9 months old lamps.

Tank size: 84x24x30(H), 265G
Lighting: two ATI powdermodule 8 x 39W (3 feet fixture)
Light bulbs combination: from front to back
Blue+
Aquablue spec.
Blue+
Aqusun
Aqublue spec.
Blue+
GE 6500K
Blue+
Hanging height: 3 inches from water level
Age of lamps: 9 months
Lighting period: 2 blue+ for 10 hrs, and 8 hrs for the rest.

kangym · 09/30/2009, 12:21 PM

The par readings are 100 to 200 less than those of 10x54W ATI PM at same 9 months old lamps. Only low light coral like monti plates, digi, pocilloporas or stylophoras grow pretty good in the tank. The color and growth of acroporas are dark and slow.
Is it about time to change the light bulbs? No, I think I am going to change the whole lighting.

kangym · 10/11/2009, 05:58 PM

Finally, I got the par reading of 8x80W ATI PM from Ryan, a local reefer with great tank and setup. Thanks Ryan allowing me to visit his tank and check the par.

Here is the tank and lighting info.
Tank size: 72x24x29(H)
Light fixture: 8x80W ATI PM
Hanging height: 6 in. from water level

Bulb combination, from front to back:
ATI Blue+
ATI Aquablue spec.
ATI Blue+
Fuji purple
ATI Aquablue spec.
ATI Blue+
GE 6500k
ATI Blue+

Lamp age: 3 months old

Rickyrooz1 · 10/11/2009, 09:59 PM

nice thread

kangym · 10/11/2009, 10:33 PM

Wish there will be more people chime in. No matter what kind of T5 lighting you are running, if you have access of par meter, please share your reading with us.

kangym · 10/11/2009, 10:40 PM

Let's make a comparison of par reading between 8x39w and 8x80w same ATI PM fixture:
8x39W ATI PM hanging at 3' above water level

8x80W ATI PM hanging at 6' above water level

kangym · 10/11/2009, 10:50 PM

If I have a 6 ft tank, I will go for one 80W fixture instead of two 39W fixtures. I spend less money and get more par with only one 80W fixture. Difference in total wattage: 8 x 39W x 2 =624W, 8 x 80W =640W.

09/07/2009, 06:04 PM	#127
chefzif Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Stow,Ohio Posts: 1,662	Very nice tank layout! __________________ 205g AGE Starfire, ATI T5 Hybrid Lighting, Octopus Extreme 3000 Skimmer, 2-Tunze 6105, 7096 Tunze Controller, 6215 Tunze Wave Maker, Tunze Osmolator, Apex Controller, GEO 618 Calcium Reactor, 285g Sys

09/20/2009, 12:04 AM	#134
sanababit Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Uranus Posts: 3,094	Hi kangym, can i ask you if the old bulbs you replaced had burnt or black look at the ends or tips and if the new ones have them too at the 3 month mark?, all my bulbs have black ends, maybe that is the sign for them to be changed, i sure wish i had a par meter, one more question did your friend that borrowed your par meter has t5 also, and how did he do on the readings?.. sana __________________ Senior Member of the "Hardly any Water Changes, Temp Swinging, T5ing, No Qtining, Frag Exchanging for Fish Food Current Tank Info: 90RR inwall, Octopuss Skimmer, 2 MP40 wQD, 1 MP10 WQD, 2 Radions G4 Pro, Apex Doser, Apex Controller, 400w heater, 30 Gal Sump, Biopellets, Carbon, Gfo, Macroalgae

09/07/2009, 10:15 PM	#130
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	Thanks chefzif, eros. Color is a very big topic. I am still learning on how to bring the color out. I've tried different lighting, light bulb combination, different water parameters (pH, alkalinity), additives (amino acid HC, coral vitalizer, Zeospur2, Roti-feast, Oyster-feast, K-balance, B-balance, Zeospur macroelements, SPG...........). Be honest, I don't know! IME. I can see the color enhancement right after I 1. replace the new T5 lamps and 2. dosing with Zeospur2.

09/19/2009, 07:42 PM	#131
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	Just get the par meter back. Here are the new par reading at 3 months old T5 lamps. Everything is the same. For easy comparison, I put par readings of 2 weeks old lamps and 3 months new readings next to each other. Par reading of 2 weeks old T5 lamps Par reading of 3 months old T5 lamps

09/19/2009, 07:48 PM	#132
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	I have some tank mishap a few days ago. The overnight power blackout costs me all the fishes, and the RTN forces me to trim or remove some of them. The tank looks a little bit out of shape. As you can see in the picture, no fish, no nemo blasts the sand. It is a low nutrition and peaceful tank now.

09/19/2009, 07:52 PM	#133
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	The new par readings still look good. Generally, it drops 5 to 10% in 3 months. No plan to lower the light fixture yet.

09/20/2009, 09:14 AM	#135
tufacody Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1,890	I know this thread isn't necessarily about cost of MH v. T5, but changing out 8 bulbs or more every 8 mos would sure seem to eat up that electric bill savings pretty quickly. I'm glad I read this thread, I'm going to stick with MH for my new system.

09/20/2009, 03:44 PM	#138
tufacody Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1,890	Sorry, it was not my intention to sidetrack the thread, but if the PAR value decreases so significantly as to require bulb replacement every 8 months, how are you saving so much money over MH? A 36" 8 bulb T5 fixture is consuming 312 watts, no? Shouldn't that be more expensive that a 250 watt halide? Then if you figure in the bulbs costs, doesnt the T5 just up even more in cost to run? Then if you figure in the that the MH fixture is cheaper... even more savings. I'm not saying I am right, I am just curious where the savings is coming from. The only variable I can see is if you have to run a chiller, which luckily with a basement system in MN I don't have to do.

09/20/2009, 04:55 PM	#139
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	Yes, you are correct. I am at central valley of CA. Two 400W MH heated up my system quickly and activated the chiller 2 to 3 times a day. My elec. bill reduced almost over 100 bucks every month after switched to T5. T5 or MH, it is just personal preference. As for par, if you see the par reading of 10 months old bulbs. I will say it is still very impressive. It is even higher than many 250W MH reading. But I will never say one is better than the other.

09/20/2009, 07:11 PM	#140
tufacody Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 1,890	Yea, I wasn't trying to push a preferance either, just curious about how you were getting the cost savings. It seems that if you don't need a chiller, MH is in fact the cheaper alternative.

09/20/2009, 08:47 PM	#141
eros Registered Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Reno, Nevada Posts: 878	It's not all about cost. T5 and Halides are 2 very different beasts and both are great in their own way. The T5 vs Halide thing has been done to death, they are both winners. If we want to go into it in more detail we can start a separate thread, or post our opinion in one of the hundreds that have already been started...

09/24/2009, 08:16 PM	#142
Denadai Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,816	update ?

09/29/2009, 10:21 AM	#143
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	New reading coming soon.

09/30/2009, 12:21 PM	#145
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	The par readings are 100 to 200 less than those of 10x54W ATI PM at same 9 months old lamps. Only low light coral like monti plates, digi, pocilloporas or stylophoras grow pretty good in the tank. The color and growth of acroporas are dark and slow. Is it about time to change the light bulbs? No, I think I am going to change the whole lighting.

10/11/2009, 05:58 PM	#146
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	Finally, I got the par reading of 8x80W ATI PM from Ryan, a local reefer with great tank and setup. Thanks Ryan allowing me to visit his tank and check the par. Here is the tank and lighting info. Tank size: 72x24x29(H) Light fixture: 8x80W ATI PM Hanging height: 6 in. from water level Bulb combination, from front to back: ATI Blue+ ATI Aquablue spec. ATI Blue+ Fuji purple ATI Aquablue spec. ATI Blue+ GE 6500k ATI Blue+ Lamp age: 3 months old

10/11/2009, 09:59 PM	#147
Rickyrooz1 Acropora Nut Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Newtown, PA Posts: 2,453	nice thread

10/11/2009, 10:33 PM	#148
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	Wish there will be more people chime in. No matter what kind of T5 lighting you are running, if you have access of par meter, please share your reading with us.

10/11/2009, 10:40 PM	#149
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	Let's make a comparison of par reading between 8x39w and 8x80w same ATI PM fixture: 8x39W ATI PM hanging at 3' above water level 8x80W ATI PM hanging at 6' above water level

10/11/2009, 10:50 PM	#150
kangym Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: CA Posts: 348	If I have a 6 ft tank, I will go for one 80W fixture instead of two 39W fixtures. I spend less money and get more par with only one 80W fixture. Difference in total wattage: 8 x 39W x 2 =624W, 8 x 80W =640W.