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08/31/2006, 07:22 PM | #26 |
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I rushed and hit submit...
I read where you do not recommend the GE bulbs anymore? explain about that...
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08/31/2006, 07:23 PM | #27 | |
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08/31/2006, 07:26 PM | #28 | |
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08/31/2006, 07:29 PM | #29 | |
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08/31/2006, 07:35 PM | #30 |
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Grim
I have the 48" tek light and want to put it on a 6 ft tank (180g). I'm trying to figure out a way to light up the last 24" of the tank. Could I use a 24" fixture just to illuminate that 2' x 2' square? I was also thinking of just getting a 250w Halide to illuminate. Any ideas? Thanks |
08/31/2006, 07:37 PM | #31 |
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what are these numbers compared to the VHO bulbs
was this with or with out reflectors i always thought UVL was the best but according to your par readins they are 2nd to ATI. |
08/31/2006, 07:53 PM | #32 | |
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Has anyone tried the red hydro bulbs? I have heard they make your red corals pop with color. http://hydroliquidators.net/store/pr...fc5aecf0850a11
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08/31/2006, 11:06 PM | #33 |
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Dunno about that lamp but I have ran the GE 3000K and it does make pink and purple stand out a lot better. I plan on running it once I have my nutrients in check.
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09/01/2006, 06:44 AM | #34 |
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Thanks Grim! The numbers are very enlightening! Haha.
I really love my T5 setup and reading your posts a long time ago helped me choose T5 instead of heating the water with a handful of MHs! I have had my current system running for about a year and my corals are going thru a really good growth spurt right now so I am not going to change any lamps until I notice them not growing. |
09/01/2006, 10:45 AM | #35 |
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I don't know...UV still probably has the best actinic bulb, which has always been their strong point.
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09/01/2006, 10:51 AM | #36 |
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I didn't realize that ATI was still around and was under the impression that the D&D bulbs were the same bulbs with different names? Can you still get the bulbs that are called blue plus then?
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09/01/2006, 10:59 AM | #37 |
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ATI Sells Blue Plus, D&D/Guisemann has the Actinic Plus. Reefgeek has the Blue Plus and they are quite a bit better than the Actinic plus.
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09/01/2006, 12:26 PM | #38 |
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Dear Grimm,
A note of "Thanks" for helping with the understanding of T-5's, and how to make them work for us in our tanks. There use to be an old 'guideline' of how many watts per gallon of light would be minimal for keeping different types of aquatic life. Example: I had a 70g tank, with 4-VHO 48" bulbs, so 440 watts of light. That would be 6.28 watts per gallon. OK, for most things but not stonys and high light clams. Now I have T-5's, 4- bulbs (54W) on an IC660 W/ IC reflectors, and one on a TEK ballast and reflector (54W) so I have a total watts of 270. This now gives me 3.85 watts per gallon. The numbers say less light, but it just isn't so. Is there any guidelines for T-5's, and how much light is needed to keep softies, stonies, anemones and clams? I think I have enough light for stonies, high light clams, and anemones, am I correct? Thanks again for your time! Robyn |
09/01/2006, 01:21 PM | #39 |
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Robyn, watts are a measure of electrical consumption, not of light. The burner on your electric range set to high turns uses a lot of electricity and glows with orange light...not much PAR for a lot of watts.
The watts/gallon concept was never close to exact, but it can only be applied within one class of lighting. VHO, PC, T-5, MH--and even within each of those classes--vary pretty dramatically in their output of light for a given amount of power. (That's the whole thrust of the PAR testing of bulbs/reflectors/ballasts that The GR does so well.) That said, you have enough light to keep some "SPS" corals, most clams and many anemone species. (At least I can say, with similar lighting, I'm able to do so. YMMV) Gary
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09/01/2006, 02:30 PM | #40 |
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WHat ^^^ Said. There are so many different ballast, lamp and reflector combination and varied tank deminsions that watts per gallon is useless. Back when everyone had flat reflectors and rectangular tanks it was still only a helpful guideline.
If you are running 4 overdriven T5's with IC reflectors on a tank less than 24" tall you have enough light to grow anything under the lamps all the way to the sand bed.
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09/01/2006, 04:54 PM | #41 |
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So then......do the 24" lights with the IC reflectors put out as much PAR as the 48" lights?
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09/01/2006, 04:56 PM | #42 |
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Normally driven probably not.
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09/01/2006, 04:57 PM | #43 |
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can you overdrive the 24" lights? what ballast config would do this?
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09/01/2006, 05:26 PM | #44 |
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Thanks, Artful and Grimm.
Even though T-5's aren't 'new' there isn't a lot of Good, Useful information, in my area. Thanks again for your help! With your PAR postings, it makes it so much easier to decide on bulbs to buy. Depending on which type of corals/animals I wish to keep, I can make better choices when making a purchase! |
09/01/2006, 05:46 PM | #45 | |
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09/01/2006, 06:13 PM | #46 |
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Thank you very much Grim. I can see you put many hours into aiding newb and pro T5er's. What type / model of meter did you use and what type of light meter would you use to tell if the lamps spectrum has shifted considerably, hence know when to replace bulbs?
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09/01/2006, 06:20 PM | #47 |
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won't the 660 be too much for the 24w bulbs?
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09/01/2006, 10:25 PM | #48 | |
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09/01/2006, 11:07 PM | #49 | |
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How about the switch? That is much more reasonable than I thought it would be. --Ray |
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09/01/2006, 11:10 PM | #50 |
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Yes the one with the cable. I have the sunlight calibrated one. I fugure I can check at noon outside and see how close the calibration is.
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