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Old 09/19/2006, 05:56 PM   #1
supernareg
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Question silicone drying time, with pics

is 18 hours enough dry time for silicone glue? it feels pretty hard i just siliconed acrylic to a 20 gal long glass tank and made compartments....

this was done 10pm last night, i wanna start putting water and transferring stuff today, at about 6pm.





R = return, F = fuge, S = skimmer
and there are baffles between fuge and return




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Old 09/19/2006, 06:08 PM   #2
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Ive done 8hrs. 18hrs is good to go!

If those are 1/8th acrylic sheets it wont last you long especially if your going to be pushing over 600gph(Most overflows drain out 600gph) through that thing. Plus you used very little silicone.

Mine bowed in about 2 days, on one of my 1st sumps ever made. Then it was down hill from there.


Started using 1/4th acrylic on my new sump, and all the ones Ive built for reefers.


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Old 09/19/2006, 06:09 PM   #3
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I think to fully-cure it's about 24 to 48 hours.
I would wait.
JMO


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Old 09/19/2006, 06:13 PM   #4
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i'll be putting LR rubble between the baffles and will support the sides of the other acrylic pieces with bigger pieces of LR, just to give it support.


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Old 09/19/2006, 06:17 PM   #5
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Those baffles will not get the bowing.

The 2 main ones will bow and eventually pop off the silicone.

The 1st skimmer compartment one will bow, and the last one in the Return area. Those 2 are more than likely going to pop off their sealent.

Sam


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Old 09/19/2006, 06:21 PM   #6
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Look at my pic. I filled it up with Hawaiin rock after those pics when it was running for support. The pressure will all go to the edges(sealent) and it will pop off.

The last thing you want to do is take the sump out, reconstruct it in a running system.

GL.

Sam


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Old 09/19/2006, 06:35 PM   #7
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so how can i support it?


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Old 09/19/2006, 06:50 PM   #8
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You cant. You will have to brace it but then your skimmer wont fit or your return pump.

1/4th acrylic wont even bend if it were the cuz size of those pieces.

1/8th is just to brittle.

Home Depot sells 3x3 pieces of 1/4th for 13bux+tax. One piece will be enough for your sump.

Leave the 1/8th baffles in and replace the 3 main ones with 1/4th.


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Old 09/20/2006, 01:05 AM   #9
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too late, the baffles are very well supported with live rock, there is no place to break / move. i think they'll do just fine.


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Old 09/20/2006, 12:44 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by supernareg
too late, the baffles are very well supported with live rock, there is no place to break / move. i think they'll do just fine.
LOL. Post up pics once it falls apart.


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And all the while you're just really wondering are we gonna get hopped up enough to make some bad decisions.

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Old 09/20/2006, 02:31 PM   #11
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sorry I have to agree with reefer, and its better to do it now than have to rip your tank apart if and when they do come loose. it wont hurt anything but you will get tired of micro bubbles REAL FAST, IMO


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:13 PM   #12
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So is silicone glue the best thing to use?

What about Weld-on Acrylic glue by IPS?


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:19 PM   #13
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If its acrylic to glass use Silicone window and door II (clear)

If its acrylic sheets to acrylic tank Weldon.


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:24 PM   #14
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Doesn't the Silicone window and door II have a fungicide in it. It says on Home Depot site that the GE brand has "BioSeal-mold and mildew product protectant" - might be a problem eh?


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:31 PM   #15
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No they dont. Probably another product? DAP?

They gaurantee not to chip or break when applied correctly, fungicide and mildew free. Isnt that what it says on every bottle?


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:32 PM   #16
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Anyway Ive been using it on my 60g reef, wich is now my sump for over a year with no ill effects. Some say it turns yellow? Mine still good, water is good. SPS are doing good.


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:36 PM   #17
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The GE brand has fungicide in it, according to Home Depot and Lowes. Not sure about the DAP brand.

Home Depot

Lowes


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:36 PM   #18
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Just use the Silicone that says "Aquarium Sealant". IT's $4.99, bought some at Ace last night.


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And all the while you're just really wondering are we gonna get hopped up enough to make some bad decisions.

Current Tank Info: Bunch of junk slammed into and above a 150g glass box: Roughly $5k. More junk stuffed underneath the glass box: Roughly $3K. Total net worth of glass box and junk? Priceless
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Old 09/21/2006, 12:38 PM   #19
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So the Aquarium Sealant works to glue acrylic to glass well?


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:40 PM   #20
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It doesnt say on either of those link that this product has fungicide? Or am I missing something here.

Reefer, yup those work well too. But its easier to get a sump done when you use a caulk gun.


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Old 09/21/2006, 12:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tobman
So the Aquarium Sealant works to glue acrylic to glass well?
Yea if you want to squeeze it by hand out of the bottle and use your finger to go up and down the edges. You can use it works well also, its very little and youll only get one baffle up with it.

DAP and GE make the small ones as well.


But like I said Im not the only one using GE silicon in this hobby. Many more, check out the DIY Forum. Thats all they recommend.


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Old 09/21/2006, 01:01 PM   #22
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You're right, it does not say "fungicide", it says "BioSeal-mold and mildew product protectant". Not sure what that means, but I am assuming it is not good for an aquarium.

Our Ace store sells the DAP Titanium product, so I will check it out tonight.


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Old 09/21/2006, 01:38 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tobman
You're right, it does not say "fungicide", it says "BioSeal-mold and mildew product protectant". Not sure what that means, but I am assuming it is not good for an aquarium.

Our Ace store sells the DAP Titanium product, so I will check it out tonight.
Its all the same thing. Just dont grow gray hairs looking for an over the counter product.

O yea, make sure the room you work in is ventilated. This stuff is uncured and will get you woozy..


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