Big E

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 12:08 PM

Three long years of planning and 6 months of waiting after ordering the tank.

I waivered from acrylic to glass and from AGE to Elos.

Well I decided on the best. The quality is unmatched along with the service that comes along with buying from Jesse and Elos.

Tank dimensions: 84"x 40"x26" (apprx. 370 gallons) peninsula style and all crystal glass.

There is a false wall to hind the Tunze Streams that I will be using for the majority of the tanks flow. I'll initially start with two 6201 streams up top (with a third to come and act as a wavebox using the new Neptune AquaSurf). The bottom will have two 6101 streams.

Equipment:

Skimmer - BK400 Internal
CARX - Not sure yet, but hopefully an Elos REA200
Kalk - Deltec 500S
Chiller - Not sure yet. (1HP Tradewind is at the top of the list)
Refugium - You bet. I'll have four different styles.

More to come.

Matt

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 12:22 PM

Here's a shot of the work that I've done over the past to just get ready for this tank. The garage was unfinished and needed some insulation to keep the temp. somewhat stable. I installed a vent fan, new sheetrock, painted the garage floor, added a new garage door (from an old wood one to a insulated steel door), and a new 40 space panel to accomadate the six new 20 amp 120v and one 20 amp 220v circuit.

The mess has been somewhat cleaned up as I am trying to do some remodel work on the interior at the same time as I put this tank together.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 12:39 PM

Here are a couple of pictures of the old setup. James at Envision built this tank for me back in 2002. It is a peninsula style tank also and measures 3'x2'x15" and has been a great tank. I just wanted to actually have some SPS and fish this time around. It's fate is now that of my frag tank and will be lit by 6 T5's.

The frag tank will have Eheim 1262 for the return to the two 3/4" Sea Swirls along with a couple of Tunze 6025's for additional flow. It will also be bare bottom unlike the display.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 12:54 PM

Here's the frag tank lighting setup. I'm trying the KZ coral light and Fiji purple along with the Aquablue + ( two of each). I built the frame out of aluminum and I only need to get a hanging kit from Jesse and have it powder coated.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 12:59 PM

Had to figure a place for the ballasts without them being in an area where they were vulnerable to water and I could still access them if troublseshooting was necessary. So this little deal will sit on top of my canopy.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 01:01 PM

I've got a couple of 4" fans that I'll add to this to keep things cool as the lights will be just above the water.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 01:14 PM

Main Display lighting:

3 - 400w 10ks in LAIII's (I'm going to try the Elos bulb and see how I like it). I'll be using PFO 400w HQI ballasts (1 double and a single).

2 - 250w 20ks in PFO DE pendants (Probably and Ushio bulb) and using a PFO 250w HQI ballast.

8 - 54w T5's (Sunlight Supply retros). Four bulbs staggered on each side of the metal halides.

4 - Moonlights from Neptune. I placed these on each end of the 250w pendants.

Each of the LAIII's has two Ice Cap 4" fans pulling the heat from the reflector. I'll run ducting from the reflector to the fan, it's just not there in the picture.

The 250w pendants have a fan over the top of them also to keep things cool.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 01:21 PM

Some of the T5 wiring as I was mocking things up before it goes off to powder coating.

I'm attaching the lunar module to the outside on the back for easy adjustment of the intensity.

I've also put a DC4 from Neptune into the canopy to turn my T5's on and off. It's behind the outlet box that supplies power to the Lunar mod and DC4. The smaller strip is for connecting the fans to. More pictures of that when I get there.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 01:30 PM

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 01:35 PM

I did want to use the glass in the LAIII's but with the way that they sit up and inside the canopy it made it impossible to remove the lenses whenever I need to clean them or change the bulbs. I did come up with a idea though that allows me to lower and raise each LAIII individually with the quick turn of a bolt on top of the canopy. Pictures will follow once it is all put toghether after powder coating.

Also, next week I'll be heading over to a local guy to have him bend up some aluminum to skin the canopy. I've also got some ideas for the top (to vent the fans) that should be pretty cool. Hopefully it's not too costly.

Fliger · 09/14/2007, 01:41 PM

Holy crap. I'm glad we rode ya. This one is gonna be fun! Absolutely stunning tank. I also had an Envision tank - which I'd consider to be as good acrylic as money can buy - glad I went with Elos when I returned to glass.

Amazing work!

edit - just noticed the size. my envision was actually 84x36x26 and the size was perfect. just hard to get into and said i'd never do it again unless i had a dedicated rank room. a tank that sized NEEDS a lot of planning to make the everyday stuff not feel like a job. i'm so jealous of your setup.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 01:48 PM

Tank:

I can't say it enough. The quality is amazing. I'm also really happy that I went with the crystal glass as the clarity is unreal. I've always had acrlyic tanks (Thanks James-Envision / 1 -120 gallon and the custom 55 gallon), but I grew tired of the scratches. I am quite careful too, but they are inevitable.

The drain and returns are one of the reasons I went with Elos. I just love the tight configuration and the custom bulkhead and return you get. The dry box is also great for keeping the cords out of sight. Elos also snuck in some snail guard in the front corners of the tank. A really nice touch.

I also had them put some ABS material on the bottom of the tank to eliminate the random fallen rock. Doubt it will happen, even with the bottom being a multi piece 1.5" bottom, but you can never be too careful.

I've got a little more than 4" with the false wall to hide my Tunze Streams.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 01:56 PM

As you saw in the opening post there are 6 locations that I can put a stream. Well I've had to cut the screening out where I am putting my streams. This created some unsightly finish work.

Well I've taken care of that.

Just had to cut some ABS that I bought for other things and voila.

I've yet to do the others, but that will happen in good time. The slots that I'm not using will still get the trim ring. You never know, I may want a stream poking out of each.

Diver Dan SD · 09/14/2007, 03:23 PM

WOW!!! That is going to be so nice! Very nice work!

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 05:25 PM

The stand:

I had to build it into three sections due to its size. I built two 40"x28"x40" sections (the front and back) and the middle section is just the outer portion of the frame work (a 40"tall by 28" long rectangle/one for the left side and right side). The stand will end up being powder coated silver. I've built the stand to accept hinges to support glass doors in each section that are going to be frosted.

I put thread inserts(the brass circles on the outer edge) on the top to hold the plywood on top of the stand.

The thread inserts are also at the fron and back of the stand in the middle to allow me to insert a middle support post. I wanted these to be removable in the instance that I have to install the sump under the tank. I'm all about easy moving.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 05:30 PM

The tabs at the bottom of the stand were installed so that I could inset a piece of 3/4" plywood to give me a flat bottom on the lower portion of the stand. I will then lay a sheet of 1/8" ABS on top of the plywood to finish off the inside of the stand.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 05:35 PM

I don't know about you guys, but when I look at my tanks I've got me nose on the glass. I've always done this and on this tank I've made it alot more comfortable by adding a 4" shelf all the way around the tank (except for the back side). I'll end up putting the same frosted glass on this shelf to give it a finished look also.

These are the tabs that hold the shelf onto the stand. Also removable.

slovan · 09/14/2007, 05:38 PM

Wow Matt!

Great progress so far and I love the custom tank! Very nice, congrats. I'll be keeping up with this one for sure.

Bricky · 09/14/2007, 05:53 PM

The challenging part:

This took alot of thought on my part. I went through alot of different scenarios and thoughts and eventually came up with this idea. I believe it to be the most functional, easiest and cost effective way to do what I wanted to do.

We all know that with an open top beauty such as an Elos tank that you don't want a canopy sitting on the tank. I totally agree, but I also didn't want the manufactured light hoods. Not that there aren't some nice ones out there (Elos, Giesemann are the one that I think are the nicest). As you saw with my canopy in the post above I wanted to use LAIII's,pendants, moonlights, and more T5's than you can get with any of the manufactured setups.

Well how do I get into the tank with this beast of canopy and how do I hang it over my tank?

This is what I came up with. It will hold the canopy and ride on some drawer slides to be raised and lowered by an actuator. I'll get 2' of travel. I'm sure that will be enough to allow me to work on the tank when I need to.

I'm working on finishing this up tonight. Actually on my way right now to go work on it.

See ya.

barrierreefcf · 09/14/2007, 05:56 PM

Coming along nice

I can't believe you used the words "easy moving" in the same thread as this tank. Maybe "easy" with Jesse's forklift

This tank is like an anchor...you're not going anywhere!

ReefRockerLive · 09/14/2007, 09:37 PM

This is already an interesting build thread. Tagging along.

hawaiianwargod · 09/14/2007, 10:20 PM

Damn! Big E indeed! This is way too cool of a project.

boozeman · 09/15/2007, 10:09 AM

wow...wow...WOW **speachless**

....and here I thought you were just slacking around

Bricky · 09/15/2007, 03:57 PM

Sump:

The sump was built by Clear Fabrications out of North Bend, WA (Thanks Jason).

Size: 62"x24"x21" and just enough room for the BK400 internal. In hind sight I wish I had gone with 30" wide. A well built sump that uses 1/2" material. I think Jason wishes I had him build my tank, but he understands.

The Tunze Osmolator for top off. I've also got a few float swithces that will be hooked up to the I/O Break Box for my ACIII Pro.

Bricky · 09/15/2007, 03:58 PM

Refugiums:

Yes that's plural. I'm going to give four different styles a try. The two on the top rack will be a Zonal type system. One will have a medium type flow and the other will be rather slow. I'll end up seeding with some of Tyrees sponge rocks to get things going.

The other two on the bottom will be a deep sand bed and macro algae refugium. I'll leave the macro tank bare bottom for easy cleaning if necessary. If cleaning is not necessary I may end up adding some sand and rock.

I still want to add about 40 #'s of SeaChem grey coast to the top of this.

Here's a view from the top. I needed to keep everything in the dark, so I cut up some ABS and fit it to the top and front of the zonal and deep sand bed tanks.

09/14/2007, 12:08 PM	#1
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Big E Three long years of planning and 6 months of waiting after ordering the tank. I waivered from acrylic to glass and from AGE to Elos. Well I decided on the best. The quality is unmatched along with the service that comes along with buying from Jesse and Elos. Tank dimensions: 84"x 40"x26" (apprx. 370 gallons) peninsula style and all crystal glass. There is a false wall to hind the Tunze Streams that I will be using for the majority of the tanks flow. I'll initially start with two 6201 streams up top (with a third to come and act as a wavebox using the new Neptune AquaSurf). The bottom will have two 6101 streams. Equipment: Skimmer - BK400 Internal CARX - Not sure yet, but hopefully an Elos REA200 Kalk - Deltec 500S Chiller - Not sure yet. (1HP Tradewind is at the top of the list) Refugium - You bet. I'll have four different styles. More to come. Matt

09/14/2007, 01:41 PM	#11
Fliger Premium Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 9,532	Holy crap. I'm glad we rode ya. This one is gonna be fun! Absolutely stunning tank. I also had an Envision tank - which I'd consider to be as good acrylic as money can buy - glad I went with Elos when I returned to glass. Amazing work! edit - just noticed the size. my envision was actually 84x36x26 and the size was perfect. just hard to get into and said i'd never do it again unless i had a dedicated rank room. a tank that sized NEEDS a lot of planning to make the everyday stuff not feel like a job. i'm so jealous of your setup. __________________ Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional. Closed minds should come with closed mouths. When life hands you lemons, add vodka! Current Tank Info: Current: 210G Elos System, 2x400W + 6x54W Photon w/Aquaconnects, H&S skimmer, Deltec FR509/ROWAphos+Elos Carbon, 6101's and 6201's, Ocean GEOtronic 900 Chiller/Heater, Biotopus II Controller w/SMS. Elos System 70. Last edited by Fliger; 09/14/2007 at 01:58 PM.

09/14/2007, 01:48 PM	#12
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Tank: I can't say it enough. The quality is amazing. I'm also really happy that I went with the crystal glass as the clarity is unreal. I've always had acrlyic tanks (Thanks James-Envision / 1 -120 gallon and the custom 55 gallon), but I grew tired of the scratches. I am quite careful too, but they are inevitable. The drain and returns are one of the reasons I went with Elos. I just love the tight configuration and the custom bulkhead and return you get. The dry box is also great for keeping the cords out of sight. Elos also snuck in some snail guard in the front corners of the tank. A really nice touch. I also had them put some ABS material on the bottom of the tank to eliminate the random fallen rock. Doubt it will happen, even with the bottom being a multi piece 1.5" bottom, but you can never be too careful. I've got a little more than 4" with the false wall to hide my Tunze Streams. Last edited by Bricky; 09/14/2007 at 01:58 PM.

09/14/2007, 03:23 PM	#14
Diver Dan SD Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: San Diego CA Posts: 124	WOW!!! That is going to be so nice! Very nice work! __________________ Elos System 120 Current Tank Info: Elos System 120

09/14/2007, 05:38 PM	#18
slovan Gold Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: IA Posts: 3,862 Blog Entries: 1	Wow Matt! Great progress so far and I love the custom tank! Very nice, congrats. I'll be keeping up with this one for sure. __________________ Marineland 300G DD

09/14/2007, 12:22 PM	#2
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Here's a shot of the work that I've done over the past to just get ready for this tank. The garage was unfinished and needed some insulation to keep the temp. somewhat stable. I installed a vent fan, new sheetrock, painted the garage floor, added a new garage door (from an old wood one to a insulated steel door), and a new 40 space panel to accomadate the six new 20 amp 120v and one 20 amp 220v circuit. The mess has been somewhat cleaned up as I am trying to do some remodel work on the interior at the same time as I put this tank together.

09/14/2007, 12:39 PM	#3
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Here are a couple of pictures of the old setup. James at Envision built this tank for me back in 2002. It is a peninsula style tank also and measures 3'x2'x15" and has been a great tank. I just wanted to actually have some SPS and fish this time around. It's fate is now that of my frag tank and will be lit by 6 T5's. The frag tank will have Eheim 1262 for the return to the two 3/4" Sea Swirls along with a couple of Tunze 6025's for additional flow. It will also be bare bottom unlike the display.

09/14/2007, 12:54 PM	#4
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Here's the frag tank lighting setup. I'm trying the KZ coral light and Fiji purple along with the Aquablue + ( two of each). I built the frame out of aluminum and I only need to get a hanging kit from Jesse and have it powder coated.

09/14/2007, 12:59 PM	#5
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Had to figure a place for the ballasts without them being in an area where they were vulnerable to water and I could still access them if troublseshooting was necessary. So this little deal will sit on top of my canopy.

09/14/2007, 01:01 PM	#6
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	I've got a couple of 4" fans that I'll add to this to keep things cool as the lights will be just above the water.

09/14/2007, 01:14 PM	#7
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Main Display lighting: 3 - 400w 10ks in LAIII's (I'm going to try the Elos bulb and see how I like it). I'll be using PFO 400w HQI ballasts (1 double and a single). 2 - 250w 20ks in PFO DE pendants (Probably and Ushio bulb) and using a PFO 250w HQI ballast. 8 - 54w T5's (Sunlight Supply retros). Four bulbs staggered on each side of the metal halides. 4 - Moonlights from Neptune. I placed these on each end of the 250w pendants. Each of the LAIII's has two Ice Cap 4" fans pulling the heat from the reflector. I'll run ducting from the reflector to the fan, it's just not there in the picture. The 250w pendants have a fan over the top of them also to keep things cool.

09/14/2007, 01:21 PM	#8
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Some of the T5 wiring as I was mocking things up before it goes off to powder coating. I'm attaching the lunar module to the outside on the back for easy adjustment of the intensity. I've also put a DC4 from Neptune into the canopy to turn my T5's on and off. It's behind the outlet box that supplies power to the Lunar mod and DC4. The smaller strip is for connecting the fans to. More pictures of that when I get there.

09/14/2007, 01:30 PM	#9
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586

09/14/2007, 01:35 PM	#10
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	I did want to use the glass in the LAIII's but with the way that they sit up and inside the canopy it made it impossible to remove the lenses whenever I need to clean them or change the bulbs. I did come up with a idea though that allows me to lower and raise each LAIII individually with the quick turn of a bolt on top of the canopy. Pictures will follow once it is all put toghether after powder coating. Also, next week I'll be heading over to a local guy to have him bend up some aluminum to skin the canopy. I've also got some ideas for the top (to vent the fans) that should be pretty cool. Hopefully it's not too costly.

09/14/2007, 01:56 PM	#13
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	As you saw in the opening post there are 6 locations that I can put a stream. Well I've had to cut the screening out where I am putting my streams. This created some unsightly finish work. Well I've taken care of that. Just had to cut some ABS that I bought for other things and voila. I've yet to do the others, but that will happen in good time. The slots that I'm not using will still get the trim ring. You never know, I may want a stream poking out of each.

09/14/2007, 05:25 PM	#15
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	The stand: I had to build it into three sections due to its size. I built two 40"x28"x40" sections (the front and back) and the middle section is just the outer portion of the frame work (a 40"tall by 28" long rectangle/one for the left side and right side). The stand will end up being powder coated silver. I've built the stand to accept hinges to support glass doors in each section that are going to be frosted. I put thread inserts(the brass circles on the outer edge) on the top to hold the plywood on top of the stand. The thread inserts are also at the fron and back of the stand in the middle to allow me to insert a middle support post. I wanted these to be removable in the instance that I have to install the sump under the tank. I'm all about easy moving.

09/14/2007, 05:30 PM	#16
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	The tabs at the bottom of the stand were installed so that I could inset a piece of 3/4" plywood to give me a flat bottom on the lower portion of the stand. I will then lay a sheet of 1/8" ABS on top of the plywood to finish off the inside of the stand.

09/14/2007, 05:35 PM	#17
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	I don't know about you guys, but when I look at my tanks I've got me nose on the glass. I've always done this and on this tank I've made it alot more comfortable by adding a 4" shelf all the way around the tank (except for the back side). I'll end up putting the same frosted glass on this shelf to give it a finished look also. These are the tabs that hold the shelf onto the stand. Also removable.

09/14/2007, 05:53 PM	#19
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	The challenging part: This took alot of thought on my part. I went through alot of different scenarios and thoughts and eventually came up with this idea. I believe it to be the most functional, easiest and cost effective way to do what I wanted to do. We all know that with an open top beauty such as an Elos tank that you don't want a canopy sitting on the tank. I totally agree, but I also didn't want the manufactured light hoods. Not that there aren't some nice ones out there (Elos, Giesemann are the one that I think are the nicest). As you saw with my canopy in the post above I wanted to use LAIII's,pendants, moonlights, and more T5's than you can get with any of the manufactured setups. Well how do I get into the tank with this beast of canopy and how do I hang it over my tank? This is what I came up with. It will hold the canopy and ride on some drawer slides to be raised and lowered by an actuator. I'll get 2' of travel. I'm sure that will be enough to allow me to work on the tank when I need to. I'm working on finishing this up tonight. Actually on my way right now to go work on it. See ya.

09/14/2007, 05:56 PM	#20
barrierreefcf Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Seattle Posts: 108	Coming along nice I can't believe you used the words "easy moving" in the same thread as this tank. Maybe "easy" with Jesse's forklift This tank is like an anchor...you're not going anywhere! __________________ Cy Forell- Barrier Reef Aquariums Current Tank Info: Too many tanks to list+over 50 Service Accounts

09/14/2007, 09:37 PM	#21
ReefRockerLive Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Derby,CT Posts: 2,549 Blog Entries: 1	This is already an interesting build thread. Tagging along. __________________ ...A hobby like no other, fulfilling, frustrating, and expensive! Current Tank Info: 67g Rimless-Profilux 3ex, GHL Mitras LED, 2x Tunze 6105, FM Ultraskim 2, Ultralith

09/14/2007, 10:20 PM	#22
hawaiianwargod Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: 11 54' N, 121 55' E Posts: 2,201	Damn! Big E indeed! This is way too cool of a project. __________________ "To be a successful reefer, one must master the art of mimicry" ~Hawaiianwargod~ [E] levated [L] evel [O] f [S] weetness Current Tank Info: 210+ - "G" Elos 160XL [~]

09/15/2007, 10:09 AM	#23
boozeman Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: new york Posts: 920	wow...wow...WOW speachless ....and here I thought you were just slacking around __________________ WWBD ?

09/15/2007, 03:57 PM	#24
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Sump: The sump was built by Clear Fabrications out of North Bend, WA (Thanks Jason). Size: 62"x24"x21" and just enough room for the BK400 internal. In hind sight I wish I had gone with 30" wide. A well built sump that uses 1/2" material. I think Jason wishes I had him build my tank, but he understands. The Tunze Osmolator for top off. I've also got a few float swithces that will be hooked up to the I/O Break Box for my ACIII Pro.

09/15/2007, 03:58 PM	#25
Bricky Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Maple Valley, WA Posts: 586	Refugiums: Yes that's plural. I'm going to give four different styles a try. The two on the top rack will be a Zonal type system. One will have a medium type flow and the other will be rather slow. I'll end up seeding with some of Tyrees sponge rocks to get things going. The other two on the bottom will be a deep sand bed and macro algae refugium. I'll leave the macro tank bare bottom for easy cleaning if necessary. If cleaning is not necessary I may end up adding some sand and rock. I still want to add about 40 #'s of SeaChem grey coast to the top of this. Here's a view from the top. I needed to keep everything in the dark, so I cut up some ABS and fit it to the top and front of the zonal and deep sand bed tanks.