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Unread 03/22/2008, 07:45 PM   #1
PCIALF
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PAR Results HQI vs T5

OK heres the deal

I had 2 150w hqi and 2 96w PC with eggcrate 3" high (black numbers) I now have a T5 w 8 54w bulbs shooting through glass tops for now 5" high which is blocking a ton I am sure (Red Letters)



as you can see much more par T5 TEK Light

Light Bulbs currently running

Front
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
Giesemann: PowerChrome Pure Actinic
ATI Procolor
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus
UV Lighting Aquasun
Giesemann: PowerChrome Aqua Blue +
Giesemann: PowerChrome Actinic Plus


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Unread 03/22/2008, 08:00 PM   #2
TwistedTiger
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You can tell nothing from that comparison since one is through egg crate and one through glass. Test them under the same conditions and then you might be able to tell something from the numbers.


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Unread 03/22/2008, 08:05 PM   #3
PCIALF
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The purpose of this comparison was to show as I was lighting my tank to how I am now. I will tomorrow put the egg crate on and it will be even higher with t5. I was trying to show even with the glass top t5's out/pared the hqi's


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Unread 03/22/2008, 08:12 PM   #4
SkiFletch
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Yeah, if anything, the glass cuts out more light than the egg crate... Looks like those T5's really do rock. Yey for individual reflectors


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Unread 03/22/2008, 08:46 PM   #5
Capt_Cully
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Tom at TRS was saying how the T5's PAR readings were blowing the MH's away. Looks like the #'s don't lie. Tank looks awesome John!....even if it is thru a glass top......


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Unread 03/22/2008, 08:52 PM   #6
KurtsReef
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What size tank, total of what 432 watts on the tank then? If your going to compare it to MH you would have to light it with similar wattage.

Looks like your getting much better par readings, but why the glass? Build some cheap screens with netting and lose no light.


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Unread 03/22/2008, 08:53 PM   #7
MarkKlier
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John nice data, I assume the eggcrate/glass are to prevent jumpers...
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Unread 03/22/2008, 09:04 PM   #8
Kent E
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Very impressive numbers and the tank ain't so bad either.


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Unread 03/22/2008, 09:27 PM   #9
Gary Majchrzak
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what happened to the purple cap?

turn that house light off so it's reflection isn't in the picture next time!

(It's a rough crowd here and I'm just trying to blend in )


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Unread 03/22/2008, 09:50 PM   #10
Jester
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Makes me wonder now... I was about to buy a MH setup for my frag tank, but now I am going to look into t5s...


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Unread 03/22/2008, 09:59 PM   #11
buddie
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how old and what bulbs were the 150's
also what kind of ballast .


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Unread 03/22/2008, 10:06 PM   #12
belgian_waffleman
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Thank you for sharing.

Can't wait to see the next comparison.


Waffleman


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Unread 03/22/2008, 10:12 PM   #13
psychofishy
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awesome :-) can't wait till i get my tek light in :-D


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Unread 03/22/2008, 10:32 PM   #14
disaster999
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Quote:
Originally posted by KurtsReef
What size tank, total of what 432 watts on the tank then? If your going to compare it to MH you would have to light it with similar wattage.

Looks like your getting much better par readings, but why the glass? Build some cheap screens with netting and lose no light.
your looking at close to 500watts for his old setup (2 150w HM and 2 96w PC) and 432watts for his new setup. if the old setup had similar wattage, par reading will be a lot lower.


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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:08 AM   #15
Gary Majchrzak
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FWIW at least two of the 3 well know LFS's started converting VHO and/or MH lit display tanks to T5 lighting.


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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:30 AM   #16
MarksReef
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Nice work, John.

Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Majchrzak
FWIW at least two of the 3 well know LFS's started converting VHO and/or MH lit display tanks to T5 lighting.
Very interesting, Gary. it's amazing how things change over the years ay?


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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:42 AM   #17
Gary Majchrzak
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yes- and IMO the T5 lit tanks at the LFS visually look more appealing than the previous lighting.

I can't wait until the price of LED lighting drops.


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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:43 AM   #18
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The real problem is that you were using 150W MHs for a tank of that depth. You needed at least 250 Watters for that deep a display. T5s can and do work, [B]but always notice how T5 lovers are having to "justify" and "prove' that the T5s work as well or better than MHs.[B/] No one with MHs is ever having to show whether or not they work well on a reef tank. MHs are still the "standard" and what all other lighting gets compared to. Other lighting schemes will work. LEDs, T5s, I have even seen some SPS thrive under PCs. It baffled me, but they did...and for over a year!. At any rate. You have a nice tank and nice setup. I too would choose just about any T5 setup over 150W MHs. You really gotta start at the 250W MHs (usually) to see the great growth and look that MHs are know for. I say "usually" because there are great tanks out there with less.

Nice tank and coral.


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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:46 AM   #19
PCIALF
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Majchrzak
what happened to the purple cap?

turn that house light off so it's reflection isn't in the picture next time!

(It's a rough crowd here and I'm just trying to blend in )
Its the original pict for comparison


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John

The answer is always no if you never ask the question.....

Current Tank Info: 120 AGA RR, 40 gal Fuge, Basement Sump, ASM Skimmer, Lifreef CA Reactor, 7gal RDSB
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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:48 AM   #20
NATIVEVAMAN
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T5 lighting is getting such a good reputation for efficiency a lot of retail stores are using it in new stores.One most notable is petco.


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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:49 AM   #21
jfl14609
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Hopefully this week my t-5 parts will be in and I am switching from 2 250 watt mh's and 2 110 watt vhos. I will get par readings before and after the switch and see the comparison. I have a 90 and am only going with 6 bulbs. I will let you know as soon as I get them.


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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:50 AM   #22
thriceanangel
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Seems more like MH users from all over are jumping on this thread to "prove" their worth... People are always trying to justify their investment...


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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:51 AM   #23
PCIALF
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Quote:
Originally posted by MarkKlier
John nice data, I assume the eggcrate/glass are to prevent jumpers...
MK
Well thats where the dilemma is. I need something to yes keep fish in (egg crate/screen netting) but now also need to keep spray and water off the individual reflectors, I do not see how you could ever clean them to original finish. So the options are glass tops or lens cover for the light I have read that with the lens cover the t5's heated up so much that 40% of par was lost so for now I am running this way but I am going to get the lens cover and actually test it.


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John

The answer is always no if you never ask the question.....

Current Tank Info: 120 AGA RR, 40 gal Fuge, Basement Sump, ASM Skimmer, Lifreef CA Reactor, 7gal RDSB
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Unread 03/23/2008, 06:56 AM   #24
PCIALF
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Quote:
Originally posted by thriceanangel
Seems more like MH users from all over are jumping on this thread to "prove" their worth... People are always trying to justify their investment...
Correct and that is why I am only posting this with the data to show what really is the difference in par between the lights and the coverings. Now the only thing really debatable is whether par matters or not. Now I really think that would be a silly position to take but the numbers are the numbers.

Also this thread has a wealth of knowledge and I consider the expert advise there I am no expert, but take the time and read the hundreds of posts in this thread there is a lot to learn. Grim is very generous with his knowledge.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...3#post12155313


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John

The answer is always no if you never ask the question.....

Current Tank Info: 120 AGA RR, 40 gal Fuge, Basement Sump, ASM Skimmer, Lifreef CA Reactor, 7gal RDSB
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Unread 03/23/2008, 07:01 AM   #25
PCIALF
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Anyone have any opinion as to what height a light is as safe as you could be for splash?


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John

The answer is always no if you never ask the question.....

Current Tank Info: 120 AGA RR, 40 gal Fuge, Basement Sump, ASM Skimmer, Lifreef CA Reactor, 7gal RDSB
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