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Old 06/02/2009, 04:44 PM   #1
Sisterlimonpot
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Covering a 125G Stand

Ever since I got water in my 125 I hated looking at the 4X4 stand that it sits on,









I always had planned on covering it but didn’t think it would annoy me this quickly. So I have been planning a way in which to cover it for the last few weeks and came up with a simple yet nice design. My budget is somewhat limited to the change in the ashtrays in the cars and drawers and jars lying around the house so I have to utilize what I have sitting around the garage. Luckily I have a few boards of 4/4 rough cut FAS red oak up on the shelves in the garage and all the tools and equipment I need to make a stand.






Some of the oak board had some curly in it but I doubt it be will noticeable and transfer to the total build:



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Old 06/02/2009, 04:46 PM   #2
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First thing I needed to do is rough cut the lengths of the boards to make them more manageable on the equipment and minimize waste. I will use the 10” miter saw to do this.



Being that it is only a 10” blade and it only cuts 5” I have to flip the board to cut all the way through



After making it a more manageable size I need to get a straight edge on one side of the board, for that I use a 6” jointer:




Now that I have 1 side straight, I can cut the width 1/16-1/8” over sized on the table saw (I’ll bring it to the proper size with the plainer)


After that I can square up 2 sides on the jointer:



Once 2 sides are square



I can run all the stock through the plainer to get the desired thickness (which in this case is ¾”) and width (which varies from ¾” to 2”) Which if you ask me is the most time consuming and monotonous task out of the entire build



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Old 06/02/2009, 04:47 PM   #3
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Now that I have 4 sides smooth and square now it’s time to cut them to length, for this I use my crosscut sled:



I like using the sled because it actually moves the entire sled with the wood to be cut across the table saw instead of moving just the wood allowing for the possibility of not getting a straight and clean cut.



After getting one side square I can set a fence (with scrap wood) and start batch cutting all my pieces to the exact size.



And after about 3 hours of work this is what I have so far…..



Now comes the fun part… I’m ready to start building the stand


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Old 06/02/2009, 04:48 PM   #4
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Now I want to make the top sections of the cabinet, but first I need to cut out the accent pieces on the ends and the ends of the bottom skirt. And because I’m not going to make another one of these stands I decided to make the templates out oak and use it in the stand when I am done with it:





I use my ban saw to rough cut them and file/sand them down to proper shape:




I need to make 6 of each of these so I trace the shape onto the other pieces:



And cut them just shy of the line:



Now I use double sided sticky tape to adhere the “template” to the piece like so:




Then it’s time to set up my router with a flush trim bit and start cutting all 12 pieces to the actual shape:




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Old 06/02/2009, 04:49 PM   #5
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Now it’s time to dry fit the top to see how it’s going to line up.



To join everything together I’m going to use a Kreg joint (which is fast and allows for a somewhat strong joint)




Now that I like how everything fits it’s time to start drilling all the holes with the Kreg jig:





Now it’s time to start screwing everything together:



Notice from the last picture that there was a little lip where the 2 pieces came together? I used a file to transition the 2 to make a seamless joint:



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Old 06/02/2009, 04:50 PM   #6
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I had to break down and buy some ¼” oak paneling because I didn’t want to make my own (just for the sheer waste of wood it would have made) that means so far I’m $24 into this project. After I got the top and bottom skirt put together I had to cut a channel on the insides to allow for the oak paneling. For that I used another router bit to accomplish this task:



There’s some burning from the router but some sanding will get that out:



Adding the precut (not shown) paneling and dry fitting it before glue up:



Top skirt is all glued up and ready to go:



Now I have to do this 5 more times for the top/bottom side skirts and the bottom skirt:





The bottom skirt isn’t shown because I ruined it with the router (it tipped off the router table when I was shutting it down the router bit caught it and ruined it) so I had to make another one:



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Old 06/02/2009, 04:51 PM   #7
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Now it’s just screwing and gluing everything together, here is the front panel:



Kind of getting the idea of what it’s looking like?
Working on the side panels:



Adding some inside trim to the side panels:




Gluing the trim on:



Lots and lots of sanding:



Got one side screwed and glued to the front:



Used a 3/8 round over router bit to smooth over the corners and bring a connection to the existing top canopy of the 125g:



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Old 06/02/2009, 04:51 PM   #8
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After a lot more sanding it was time to see if all that work was going to fit around the tank:




Luckily it did and a few more shots of the stand closer up on the corners:




So now it’s back to work in Nebraska for the next 4 days and I will get started building the doors. I’m 13 hours into the build and so far the cost is $24 but I still have to buy the hinges (which I think I might have some lying around but I have to find them), a stain that will match the canopy and a waterproof poly.

Let me know what you think so far
Jimmy


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Old 06/02/2009, 04:56 PM   #9
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its looking good!
also, I am very jealous of your workshop and all your tools.


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Old 06/02/2009, 04:56 PM   #10
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Very nice! Looking forward to seeing the final product.


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Old 06/02/2009, 05:53 PM   #11
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It's looking good gonna be nice.


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Old 06/02/2009, 06:03 PM   #12
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Now thats some GOOOOOD stuff right there!! Awesome work Jimmy!! Cant wait to see it all finished up.


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Old 06/02/2009, 06:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by sus
its looking good!
also, I am very jealous of your workshop and all your tools.
I have my wife to thank for that. it seems every birthday or christmas she gets me a new toy to play with, however it's 2 fold because she gets some nice furniture out of it




Thanks everyone. now a question I have is, should I make the doors flush with the stand or have it close on the outside?


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Old 06/02/2009, 06:45 PM   #14
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I love the extra effort you went into with the circular portions.

So any color preferences in mind? I'm sure you are staining in due to the wood choice. It definitely needs to be sealed to protect it from water damage.

Is this going to be a three-sided skirt, or will you actually affix it?


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Old 06/02/2009, 07:20 PM   #15
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Jimmy I think the doors are going to be what you preffer. I personally like top mount doors, but what do you like?


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Old 06/02/2009, 07:38 PM   #16
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Nice work, Jimmy!!!


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Old 06/02/2009, 07:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
I love the extra effort you went into with the circular portions.

So any color preferences in mind? I'm sure you are staining in due to the wood choice. It definitely needs to be sealed to protect it from water damage.

Is this going to be a three-sided skirt, or will you actually affix it?
I think that I will attach it to the stand with something that will make it easily removable... kinda like the latch you would use to lock down a leaf to a table top.

Quote:
Originally posted by spleify
Jimmy I think the doors are going to be what you preffer. I personally like top mount doors, but what do you like?
I prefer those types of doors as well, they take a little bit more to make but I don't have to use those euro hinges (that are so expensive). And there’s more room error as far as exacting the size.

On the other hand, I do like the clean lines of a flush mounted door though. I guess I'm torn between the 2 ideas. But like I said I’m leaning towards the overlay type.


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Old 06/02/2009, 08:23 PM   #18
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Page 1 of my build thread shows the doors I made for mine.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1343381


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Old 06/02/2009, 08:25 PM   #19
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And FWIW, I used the inexpensove exterior hinges on mine too.


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Old 06/05/2009, 08:41 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by spleify
Page 1 of my build thread shows the doors I made for mine.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1343381
Leif,
I just had a chance to look at that... very nice. I wanted to go really fancy as well with the denture molding and all but we don't have any furniture that is colonial style in the house and it would have stood out.

Judging by the stickers on the back of the oak wood, you paid an arm and a leg for it. Too bad I didn't know you before I had about 70bf of FAS that I paid $1.75 a bf when I went home to my wifes parents house in WI (of coarse I have to trailer it all the way back here) the Amish sell it really cheap (FAS and it's kiln dried you can't touch that price anywhere) So, in all reality I paid $15 for all the oak wood that I used so far and probably another $10 for the doors when I get to them done.


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Old 06/05/2009, 09:38 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sisterlimonpot
So, in all reality I paid $15 for all the oak wood that I used so far and probably another $10 for the doors when I get to them done.
Dang, thats a sweet deal!! I have a little more than that in mine......


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Old 06/06/2009, 02:08 AM   #22
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Damn, my bar cost me over $400 but I had them mill work it, since it is so damn hard!


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Old 06/06/2009, 10:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by murfman
Damn, my bar cost me over $400 but I had them mill work it, since it is so damn hard!
That's funny because I was just thinking I can make this into a bar instead of a tank stand cover.


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Old 06/06/2009, 11:10 PM   #24
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Alright so I can officially say I’m done making doors for a long time!!! These guys were time consuming, it’s true what they say, “the devils in the details”


First thing I had to do was mill all the wood to the correct size:



After all that was done I set the router up to start cutting a groove away on the inside of the door pieces:







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Old 06/06/2009, 11:14 PM   #25
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Next I had to set the router table up for the mirrored router bit:



And then dry fit them, they are designed to fit snuggly into each other:





So once I get them the way I like them I cut out the paneling to fit inside the doors and glue all 5 of them up.


The paneling that I bought was 1/4“ but the router cut out was for a 3/8” thick panel so I wanted to be able to hide that gap on the backside of the doors, so I did the same thing I did for the sides of the stand. I glued in some more costume trim:



But you notice that this one has a big lip on it:



I used a block plain to trim it down:



And sanding them smooth:



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