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03/14/2016, 07:53 PM | #3326 |
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Quick update on the dyno scrubber, if you are just looking to lower your numbers before hitting them with UV, Dirty Method, or anything else, scrubber is working. After 2 days, it was full of dynos, and I barely see any on Rock, Sand, etc.
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03/14/2016, 09:32 PM | #3327 | |
Acros & Wrasses
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Location: Central KY
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I posted what I had done a few posts up. You can read/see more in my tank thread in my signature.
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Josh My 80g: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2677031 |
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03/15/2016, 01:55 AM | #3328 | |
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Location: Dallas, TX
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daily output is 2qts of liquid waste It's a dual Beckett injected 12' tall skimmer. The solid waste builds up every month. I don't weight it (maybe I should), but a picture is worth 1000 words: It may be a DIY, but it's the best skimmer I've seen. Always surprised at opinions without seeing it
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
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03/15/2016, 01:56 AM | #3329 |
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
03/15/2016, 01:59 AM | #3330 |
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I think it's safe to say - I get "export"...
I feed massive quantities of food a day too. I see nutrients as fuel for my machine. I also consume about a Kg of Kalkwasser powder a month... Just to avoid any assumptions
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
03/15/2016, 02:01 AM | #3331 |
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
03/15/2016, 09:48 AM | #3332 |
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I think there's a Trump like joke in there somewhere...
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
03/15/2016, 10:23 AM | #3333 |
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What? The I get "export" bit?
I said EXport, not DEport.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
03/15/2016, 02:10 PM | #3334 | |
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Location: Chico, CA
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Lack of biodiversity at the bottom of the food change is what allows dinos to flourish. This happens much easier at low nutrient levels because the competition in the tank is almost nonexistent. Algae will not grow (in the display) at these low nutrient levels without maximizing light, flow and attachment with an ATS. |
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03/15/2016, 08:34 PM | #3335 |
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back when I had dinos, I wasn't feeding as much... or exporting as much.
In fact, my big extinction event was using LaCl. It crashed my phosphates so quickly that all algae melted in 24hrs and gave dinos a foothold. I hit them with everything. First UV, then wet skimming + carbon + new chaeto + new live rock + blackout + thousands of pods + phyto. Then I cranked up my feeding and installed an ATS... Now it's all going full blast. I still run UV at night... and in case you think that's killing my biodiversity - look at my videos. As long as I feed phyto and turn off my skimmer at night, my plankton base stays thick and the dino s are non-existent.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
03/15/2016, 10:28 PM | #3336 |
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joining this party.
my tank is 8 months old - a month after stocking several sps, dinos have hit. I am not sure the reason. My theory is that I overdosed nitrate, which drove my phosphate down to nothing, then dinos got a foot hold. I am grateful this thread exists. I have done a black out 2 weeks ago, they all melted, but slowly came back. I could keep them at bay if I fed minimally and skimmed hard, but my sps were suffering and pale. I realize I can't go on like this. I am going to try the dirty method and see if I can get some other algaes or cyano growing. Started three days ago. It is painful to watch - I am literally dumping in the food morning and night and the dinos have gone crazy in terms of growth. It seems I need to let them get worse before I see other algaes popping up. I do notice a lot more pod action on the glass. What is really strange - ever since I got dinos, I can't get any green film or brown dusting on the glass - even after several days... Will update anyone with my results - Really depressed, my sps are pale or brown, no growth, no 2 part consumption, and fish seem stressed. I hope my tank comes through. Feeding 2 cubes of PE mysis, dose of Fuel, 1 flake feeding, and 1 cube of cyclopeeze at night. Skimmer is now off. Just running chaeto - lit 24/7 in sump. |
03/15/2016, 10:59 PM | #3337 |
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why ?
You're ok taking the risk killing your SPS when a slow flow UV and wet skimming in blackout will give you the position to reset your tank's chemistry? then add phyto and a little food to establish your algae and you can change the vector of life in the tank. I understand wanting to avoid paying $70 for a 36W UV sterilizer if you just have a couple of fish or some softies or LPS... but seeing SPS die for that little seems .............. just my clearly biased opinion and earnest desire to help.
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Failure isn't an option It's a requirement. 660g 380inwall+280smp/surge S/L/Soft/Maxima/RBTA/Clown/Chromis/Anthias/Tang/Mandarin/Jawfish/Goby/Wrasse/D'back. DIY 12' Skimmer ActuatedSurge ConcreteScape |
03/16/2016, 08:51 AM | #3338 | ||||||
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When you tell me your story I don't see it the same way as you... what I see is that you tried a bunch of different approaches that were not working so you added an ATS and now you have no dinos. Quote:
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03/16/2016, 10:19 AM | #3339 | |
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Location: NE Miss
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Blackouts and dino-cidal chemicals... So you remove dinos. Great. What did you replace them with? I think we need this as a slogan, to remove dinos you must first decide what to replace them with. We need something catchy in the form of a bumper sticker or kung fu proverb. "In dinos, there is no remove. There is only replace." Hopefully someone else can do better. Cyano is a no no. Dinos and cyano are BFFs and joined at the hip. It's not a candidate for replacing dinos. Just throwing food in the tank does not automatically ensure you'll have elevated N and P. Quite often they are out of balance and one is elevated while the other is limiting factor for growth. Test and adjust. Last edited by taricha; 03/16/2016 at 10:20 AM. Reason: I |
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03/16/2016, 10:25 AM | #3340 |
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great answer.
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03/16/2016, 10:27 AM | #3341 |
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So if you have no nitrates, no phosphates (in my case no corals), how is it possible that Dino's can survive?
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03/16/2016, 10:29 AM | #3342 |
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03/16/2016, 10:47 AM | #3343 |
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"Zero" nutrients isn't zero. It's a small amount constantly going into the water column from biological processes, coupled with that small amount being taken up by other biological processes almost as soon as it enters.
In your case, dinos are doing the uptake maybe directly, or maybe through some bacterial friends of theirs. |
03/16/2016, 11:42 AM | #3344 | |
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Essentially what I'm asking is, if you go into a low nutrient system, such as a zeovit, or prodibio, or whatever, the thinking is there's such low nutrients in the water, that "in theory" no nuisance algae can grow, let alone survive. In zeovit for example, they say to remove the PO4 reactor, and take the refugium out because once the system takes hold, there's no nutrients to grow the macro-algae. In the thread, I've seen you remove the dino's, but you need to replace them with something else, but haven't seen anyone say, these are what you can replace the dino's with? Having said that, i looked on the reefcleaners website, and the fuzz growing on my rocks, may not have been dino's, but looks a lot like Calothrix. The stuff only grew on my rocks, looked very much like peach fuzz. Not once did it grow on the sand or substrate. |
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03/16/2016, 12:29 PM | #3345 | |||
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03/16/2016, 01:48 PM | #3346 | |
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03/16/2016, 01:53 PM | #3347 | |
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Here is what I did once I got my scrubber up and running. I took this advise directly from Floyd R Turbo on the algae scrubber site and I think he got it from Santa Monica originally. I only slightly deviate from this advise but all the main principles are followed. Many people have successfully used this method, some even more than once.
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03/16/2016, 03:27 PM | #3348 |
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One thing I have noticed is that dinos don't like coraline algae. I think I am going to start raising calcium and magnesium to start increasing my coraline growth. They don't attach to coraline rocks.
As for the other dinos... Does dosing mb7, dr tims one and only, and etc... help promoto biodiversity? Or do we need biodiversity from live rocks? |
03/16/2016, 03:30 PM | #3349 |
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If you want to add fixed nitrogen and phosphate to the water column, sodium nitrate and some form of sodium phosphate should be fine, if you get a food-grade mixture. Sodium nitrate can be a bit hard to find, but I think it's possible.
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Jonathan Bertoni |
03/16/2016, 05:02 PM | #3350 |
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Dyno scrubber update day 3. Don't see a single spot on rock or sand anymore.
Guys what should I aim for Phosphates? Got Nitrates now for sure as I miss dosed! |
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