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02/17/2009, 09:30 AM | #26 |
Aquanot!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Falls Church, VA
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You do not need a center brace. However, you can put a little strip on the inside of one of the doors to cover the crack and stop light from shining through if you have a refugium.
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Whatever Happens...Happens! |
02/17/2009, 09:38 AM | #27 | |
oxygen abuser
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02/17/2009, 01:17 PM | #28 |
oxygen abuser
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and bump again to my question, are shims really the better choice than adjustable feet at either all 4 corners or in 6 spots, corners and middle of the long legs?
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-Mike Tankless wonder Geaux Noles! |
02/17/2009, 02:28 PM | #29 |
Space is big.
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chimmike,
The simple answer is yes, shims along the entire length are better then adjustable feet because they help spread out the weight of the tank. If the floor is wood you are likely to get permanent imprints due to the weight being in just one small area. If the floor is tile you are likely to break it. When I placed my 75g tank, I used cedar shakes which are $5 a bundle (lasts forever) and shimmed the stand with the tank empty. Then once the tank was full I pushed in the shims on the low side to level it off. Once everything was settled I scored the top of the shims with a utility knife and broke them off flush to the edge of the stand. Unless you really looked, you never would have noticed them. Overall, shims are easier to adjust and less likely to cause damage. buccard, Do you think you could post some details on your doors? Looking good so are. Awaiting picture of the finished product.
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-RocketEngineer "Knowledge is what you get when you read the directions, experience is what you get when you don't." - Unknown Current Tank Info: None Currently |
02/17/2009, 02:38 PM | #30 | |
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Location: Lakeland, Florida
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Quote:
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Roger Save a fish, click on the red house. Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon-mixed reef |
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02/17/2009, 03:08 PM | #31 | |
oxygen abuser
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Quote:
Fortunately, the floor is concrete, as it's my garage, so imprints or cracking will certainly not be an issue. I'll have to check Lowes and see if they have cedar shakes. |
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02/18/2009, 03:10 PM | #32 |
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Location: Lakeland, Florida
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Here is some shots of the door making:
First I framed the door-I went about 3/4 inch more than the opening: Next I nailed a strip on the backside of the door with brad nails: To give the door more strength I counter sunk 2 wood screws at at each end of the back support. All the fasteners were put in from the backside to keep the front looking clean. I use a router to take the sharp edge off the front innner part of the door frame: Next I glued thinner center panels into the door frame-to give the door some change in depth: Gorrila glue expands as it drys so I added a 5 gallon bucket of weight to the door until the glue cured:
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Roger Save a fish, click on the red house. Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon-mixed reef |
02/18/2009, 03:11 PM | #33 |
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I trimmed the top and bottom:
I am waiting on hinges and knobs: I will hang the doors, paint and stain the stand, Install the flooring inside and post the final pics within 2 weeks.
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Roger Save a fish, click on the red house. Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon-mixed reef |
02/18/2009, 07:19 PM | #34 |
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Im about to start building my frame. I have 2 and 1/2 inch wood screws. Are these fine?
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THANX IN ADVANCE, Ty Current Tank Info: 75 gallon tank, DIY Stand, 20long sump, 29g reef, 10g nano |
02/18/2009, 07:50 PM | #36 |
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They look like they have some kind of coating on them
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THANX IN ADVANCE, Ty Current Tank Info: 75 gallon tank, DIY Stand, 20long sump, 29g reef, 10g nano |
02/18/2009, 08:19 PM | #37 | |
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Quote:
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Roger Save a fish, click on the red house. Current Tank Info: 90 Gallon-mixed reef |
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02/19/2009, 10:25 AM | #38 |
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Location: Charleston, SC
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Hi All,
I'm looking for conformation that I will not be doing something stupid when I make my stand. I have a 180 g tank that is 72" x 24" x 24" and was thinking of using 2x6s for the top frame and 2x4s for the rest of the stand. I will probably have a vertical 2x4 in the center of the frames for support and to have something to hang the doors on. I'll skin it with 1/4" plywood. Am I on the right track? Also, I would like to put some molding on the stand high enough to hide the black plastic trim of the tank. What is the best way of doing that? Was thinking of putting the tank flush with the front of the top 2x6 and attach the molding over the top of the 1/4" plywood. Is there a better/cleaner looking way? Thanks. |
02/19/2009, 12:35 PM | #39 |
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nice, thanks for the post
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Harry Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef tank |
02/21/2009, 07:53 AM | #40 | |
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Quote:
Any one? |
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02/21/2009, 07:54 AM | #41 | |
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Quote:
Anyone? |
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02/21/2009, 03:53 PM | #42 |
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what kind of material is everyone using for the sump floor and the top where the tanks sits?
would this be good. its 7/16 inch and would just attach it with nails?
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THANX IN ADVANCE, Ty Current Tank Info: 75 gallon tank, DIY Stand, 20long sump, 29g reef, 10g nano |
02/21/2009, 04:15 PM | #43 | |
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02/21/2009, 06:44 PM | #44 |
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what thickness...1/4inch?do you just nail the plywood?
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THANX IN ADVANCE, Ty Current Tank Info: 75 gallon tank, DIY Stand, 20long sump, 29g reef, 10g nano |
02/21/2009, 07:02 PM | #45 |
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Location: Sumner, WA
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I am using 3/4 on the top and bottom and 1/2 ply on the sides
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02/21/2009, 07:10 PM | #46 |
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do you really need a top for the stand?
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Mike momento mori Click the house for my build thread |
02/21/2009, 07:15 PM | #47 |
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I think somewhere in thie long post it was stated if your tank has a frame you do not need a top. My tank does not have any frame other then glass so I am using plywood along with fome.
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02/21/2009, 07:20 PM | #48 |
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yea if the tank has a plastic trim (AGA i know has them) then you dont need a top for it to sit on. but if its acrylic or is just all glass then it needs to sit on something.
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THANX IN ADVANCE, Ty Current Tank Info: 75 gallon tank, DIY Stand, 20long sump, 29g reef, 10g nano |
02/23/2009, 08:27 AM | #50 | |
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Bump one more time.
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