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Unread 08/06/2005, 12:47 PM   #26
jmkarcz
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Keep in mind that I have contacted any the major tank builders IE: All Glass and Perfecto...If you discribe your tank, and which pannel you insist on drilling, they will tell you yes or no on the tempered glass.... ALL 55 gallon tanks are TEMPERED!
Jason

By the way... Great post.... can we just referr everyone to this from now on... holes seem to be very common topic... maybe lock this in...


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Unread 08/06/2005, 01:12 PM   #27
steve68
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"if you get 4 or more holes out of each bit you are way ahead of the game"

Guess i wasnt thinking how many holes u can get out of the bits i was just thinking wow 10 bucks, so u are probably right derek, i have used one tile bit on 7 holes 4 1.5 & 3 1.0 inch the 4 i.5 where on 1/2 inch thick glass & the other 3 where on 3/8 guess im back to square one oh well..
there is nothing like making a perfect hole but i just cant see paying over 50 bucks to only get 10 to 12 holes,cutting glass is so easy most people brake the tanks cuz they use to much pressure & not enough water.


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Unread 08/06/2005, 02:49 PM   #28
JustOneMoreTank
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You really should not have any problems breaking tanks... I just spin the drill at a fast to moderately fast speed, try and keep the area wet with water, and use very little pressure against the glass. Also NEVER try and drill on tempered glass! Usually the tank will have a sticker on the pane of glass if it has been tempered. Also if you are concerned you can call the manufacturer and ask which panes of glass on your size tank are tempered.
Good luck and have fun.


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Unread 08/06/2005, 06:38 PM   #29
reefdna
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This needs to be a sticky. Great info. I was talking to a guy locally who wanted $35.00 to drill each hole! I told him he was nuts and this thread proves it. (I think I'll e-mail this to him)

Ed C


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Unread 08/06/2005, 07:20 PM   #30
shanebc21
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Quote:
Originally posted by DerekW
I imagine for his prices that these are not top qulity bits. How many holes have you gotten out of a bit and what thickness glass?
Having said that, if you get 4 or more holes out of each bit you are way ahead of the game, just about cheaper than a dremel bit anyway
I only needed one hole each, so five bucks each worked for me. They got the job done. My bulk heads are in with no leaks. I cleaned the heads with a toothbrush, they still feel pretty sharp. Im guessing I got two or three more holes left in each bit.


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Unread 08/06/2005, 10:03 PM   #31
dweakl01
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Here's a link to my Nano-Reef thread. I just cut bulkhead holes for my 20L with a dremel.

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/show...threadid=63483


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Unread 08/06/2005, 10:19 PM   #32
JustOneMoreTank
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Quote:
Originally posted by shanebc21
I only needed one hole each, so five bucks each worked for me. They got the job done. My bulk heads are in with no leaks. I cleaned the heads with a toothbrush, they still feel pretty sharp. Im guessing I got two or three more holes left in each bit.
Just make sure to throw the toothbrush away! I am sure that it would do a number on your soft gum tissue with any glass in it!


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Unread 08/07/2005, 12:53 AM   #33
h20cooled
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I've also been using the bits from richon-tools and so far I've been able to drill atleast 6 holes for 1" bulkheads and atleast 12 for 1/2". I keep thinking that this is the last hole for this bit but they just keep on going. I'm very happy with the bits and the cost, cannot beat it anywhere. Also as far as breaking tanks while drilling I have drilled through 3 of my own tanks varying is size from 50G to 10g and have never had even a close call.

Rich


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Unread 08/07/2005, 06:40 AM   #34
JustOneMoreTank
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Quote:
Originally posted by h20cooled
I've also been using the bits from richon-tools and so far I've been able to drill atleast 6 holes for 1" bulkheads and atleast 12 for 1/2". I keep thinking that this is the last hole for this bit but they just keep on going. I'm very happy with the bits and the cost, cannot beat it anywhere. Also as far as breaking tanks while drilling I have drilled through 3 of my own tanks varying is size from 50G to 10g and have never had even a close call.

Rich
The number of holes you get out of the bits will depend on two things: The thickness of the glass you are working through and the diameter of the hole that you are cutting.

If you are cutting small diameter holes through thinner glass (like drilling a smallish tank to use as a sump for instance) the bit will last many holes for sure. I managed only 2.5 holes with the 60mm bit for my 1.5" Bulkhead and I wimped out. I stopped using the bit because I thought maybe it wasnt cutting well anymore. So I ordered a new bit off of Ebay because they are so super cheap and I did not want to risk the tank. So my bit came in the mail and I finished my last big hole on the back glass of my 120g tank. The original 60mm diamond hole saw probly could have finished hole number three but I chickened out.
It is really very easy and just about anyone should be able to do this.


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Unread 08/11/2005, 02:28 PM   #35
arconom
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When drilling holes, how far apart should the holes be at least?3inches from center?? Is there a rule of thumb?so you don't risk undo stress on the glass.

Also how far away from the sides of the glass should you stay?

EXAMPLE

A-------Distance from edge? MINIUM?
B-------Width between holes? MINIUM?





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Unread 08/11/2005, 02:48 PM   #36
dweakl01
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A general rule of thumb is to stay the diameter of the hole away from all edges.


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Unread 08/11/2005, 03:19 PM   #37
arconom
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Thanks does that apply to the holes in example B also?


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Unread 08/11/2005, 06:56 PM   #38
steve68
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that avitar is 2 funny LOL.


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Current Tank Info: 50 Breeder with 250w MH 10k XM bulb & 2 24inch VHO atinic 03,210 gallon Reef tank. 3 250 W MH,MRC CR-2 Reactor & MR-2 Skimmer,150 gallon sump,125 gallon refugium,75 Gallon Frag Tank & adding more water volume every t
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Unread 08/11/2005, 07:52 PM   #39
JustOneMoreTank
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Quote:
Originally posted by arconom
Thanks does that apply to the holes in example B also?
Yes that rule does apply when placing holes near each other. I was not aware of this rule before I drilled my tank. I accidently placed two holes very near each other. The flanges of the Bulkheads are just barely not touching each other. Ooops. It should be fine however. We will see.


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Unread 08/11/2005, 08:13 PM   #40
arconom
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Thanks for the info. Also is there a limit to how many holes can be put on one tank side?


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Unread 08/11/2005, 08:24 PM   #41
chrisguy
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This thread has given me the blind confidence to try this myself. The local glass company wants to charge me $20 per hole. I ordered a 45mm and 60mm and should be able to do all the holes I need for less than $20.

Thanks!!


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Unread 08/12/2005, 08:09 AM   #42
JustOneMoreTank
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Just be sure when you are starting the hole you want the bit at an angle to the glass surface. It you try to start drilling the hole with the diamond hole saw flush to the glass surface it will be very very difficult to control the bit and it will want to "ice-skate" around all over marring the surface before it starts biting into and cutting the hole. Start at about a 45 degree angle to make it easier to get the hole started. Then later restart the hole squarely against the tank surface using the half area of hole that is cut into the tank to help keep the bit from skating around.
Soon you will see how easy it is. Good luck.


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Unread 08/12/2005, 10:25 AM   #43
JPipe
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JustOneMoreTank, nice job! Question on your overflow walls/weirs, you must have built those youself right? How did you do that?
Thanks


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Unread 08/17/2005, 02:15 AM   #44
Newbler
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Sticky!


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Unread 08/17/2005, 09:09 AM   #45
Saltcity
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They sell Drill guides that will keep your hole saw in one place.....If you plan on drilling many holes, it might be worth it to buy one?

Drill guide on Ebay


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Unread 08/18/2005, 01:23 PM   #46
old95er
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I have a 50 gallon Oceanic, I am tired of the CPR overflow losing it's siphon. . .

I would like to drill "teeth" into the back of the tank and then attach an oveflox box.

Any advice?

I have a dremel with the router attachment. Which bit should I use to rout the teeth?


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Current Tank Info: 120. . .lumenarc stealth x 2, 10k Ushio DE 250w, DIY sump, mag18 return, with refugium,AquaC EV180 with Mag7, Dart /OM 4 way CL, JBJ 1/10hp Chiller, Fishbowl Innovations Moonlightsx2, Oceanus Poseidon ATO fr RO/DI, ozotech poseidon
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Unread 08/18/2005, 01:33 PM   #47
Saltcity
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Hmmmmm, I'd like to see pics of that when your done!!


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Unread 08/18/2005, 01:44 PM   #48
old95er
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it seems simple enough. . .drill .25" wide by .5" tall holes and space them an inch apart, nine holes, about 600 GPH, no siphon loss. . .

someone shoot some "holes" in my theory. . .LOL


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Click the red house. . .check out the new 120. . .tell me what you think!

Current Tank Info: 120. . .lumenarc stealth x 2, 10k Ushio DE 250w, DIY sump, mag18 return, with refugium,AquaC EV180 with Mag7, Dart /OM 4 way CL, JBJ 1/10hp Chiller, Fishbowl Innovations Moonlightsx2, Oceanus Poseidon ATO fr RO/DI, ozotech poseidon
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Unread 08/18/2005, 02:02 PM   #49
Saltcity
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Sounds like it would work....Just kinda scary when your the first one to try!!


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Unread 08/18/2005, 02:56 PM   #50
dweakl01
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Quote:
Originally posted by old95er
I have a 50 gallon Oceanic, I am tired of the CPR overflow losing it's siphon. . .

I would like to drill "teeth" into the back of the tank and then attach an oveflox box.

Any advice?

I have a dremel with the router attachment. Which bit should I use to rout the teeth?
Careful with the Oceanic tank. You may want to check their website. They build quality tanks and use alot of tempered glass. If the glass is tempered, you don't want to dril lit.


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