chinese led lights

[BigCountry74]

I have 3 anemones 24"+ under the aquariumled 14ks, one is a bicolored that requires some light that has been sitting there for a month and 1/2. Not that I am questioning the par readings, but @ 55 par I simply do not think they would be living?

Edit - anemones can live @ 50-100 par at the sand bed
hehe


Hey big thanks for those par readings. that really makes this thread golden.

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by BigCountry74

Par is the same via their site for the 14 and 20. Just think it's weird the numbers are 1/2 off. Very weird.

It could be the differences in the meters they are using. Most PAR meters realy drop off in there sensativity when you get below 490 nm. With Aquarium lighting you actualy want 90% of your light comming from under 500 nm.

As far as the 14K to 20 K difference goes if the LED's are equaly as effecient the numbers should be very simular. However with lack of sensitivity on the meters at the shorter wave lenghts it is understandable that meter reading will be lower. After all most PAR meters were designed for maximum accuracy in the red range which most terestial plants love.

Sorry I do not put a lot of weight on PAR meters for aquariums. You can take a 2,800K florescent bulb and get a much higher reading than you would on an equal wattage and type 14,000K bulb. But your corals will gtrow and look much better with the 14,000K bulb.

Also a point to consider is that the measurements taken where in Air while the corals are in a tank with many objects. Between shadows, reflections, and attenuation the numbers will probably much different.

[tntneon]

Hi TropTrea ,

what we really wanna know is PUR if i'm right ?
I'm wondering if there are PUR - meters on the market for corals ?
Or can one calculate the amount of PUR by examining the spectral curve ?

greetingzz tntneon

[MBizzo]

I just got the newer version in the mail today. It's 120 watts, 30 blue, 25 white, all running at 2 watts. Its extremely bright but my only problem is how loud the fans are and more importantly this very annoying ringing noise!! Tried asking about it on another thread but no luck

[shiladitya1991]

That light is an SPS killer...

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by tntneon

Hi TropTrea ,

what we really wanna know is PUR if i'm right ?
I'm wondering if there are PUR - meters on the market for corals ?
Or can one calculate the amount of PUR by examining the spectral curve ?

greetingzz tntneon

For every coral the actual PUR value of the same light source will be different. Yes there are ways to calculate it if you know exactly what wavelenghts a particular coral needs. However experts have studied this for decades and have not come up any 100% accurate information available to the general public.

The light can be measured with a spectrum anylizer that is sensative in the range from 380 nm to about 720 nm. The cost of these anylizers are much more than even the some of the more elaborate systems some people have here. Then after plotting out the light source you need to compare it the needs of the actual coral or corals you are keeeping.

There realy is no easy answer. Especialy since the best lighting for corals is probably what is the ocean where they are found. Most people would consider that lighting extremly too blue. Most underwater photography we see is either very shallow water or enhansed with hight powered white strobe lights. So you cannot even compare that what is ideal for most corals.

[Browserz]

Originally Posted by shiladitya1991

That light is an SPS killer...

May i ask why?

[Ianwraab]

I scrapped the DIY idea...
To costly by the time I was done...
So more than likely I'll end up with a 1:1 ratio...
If I want it bluer I'm gonna want cool whites right...

What k spectrum should I be shooting for?


I can use the dimmer on the black box I'm looking at to make my tank bluer, but I dont really want to have the power much below 100%...

Does anyone have an opinion on a 3w Cree fixture (55x3w) runnin 120w?.. Am I loosing out when I under run an led. I know the led lasts longer, but what am I runnin here same as a 40x3w at 120w?

[Ianwraab]

Help me out here...
If...
120x1w=120w
60x2w= 120w
30x3w= 120w

So, my question is

Running 55x3w at 120w
the same as
Running 40x3w=120w

40x3w=120w ( <,>,or = ) 55x3w= 120w

[HurricaneSystem]

Ok guys,

Sorry for the late response, been pretty busy at work lately. A little background, I bought my fixture at my LFS. I have yet to find one like it, exactly, that is. It looks identical to the Aquariumled one, except it has 55, 3W bulbs in it. Here are some pics below. I took one of my tank, with 1 Kessil A150 10k on one side, this light on the other.

If anyone has ANY idea who makes this light, I would love to know so I can get another. My LFS doesn't seem to be able to get anymore for some reason.

The pic isn't that good to pick up the correct lighting. The LED is super super bright and like I said, like a T5 on steroids as far as the look to the eye. The Kessil is absolutely gorgeous with a great shimmer, but noticeably dimmer to the eye.

[submersible]

Originally Posted by Ianwraab

Help me out here...
If...
120x1w=120w
60x2w= 120w
30x3w= 120w

So, my question is

Running 55x3w at 120w
the same as
Running 40x3w=120w

40x3w=120w ( <,>,or = ) 55x3w= 120w

I've been trying to figure that out since the begining of this thread.

The aquariumleds specs says they run at 300-350mA at 3-3.8 volts.

The taotronics specs state they run at 630mA.

[jobryan26]

Originally Posted by HurricaneSystem

Ok guys,

Sorry for the late response, been pretty busy at work lately. A little background, I bought my fixture at my LFS. I have yet to find one like it, exactly, that is. It looks identical to the Aquariumled one, except it has 55, 3W bulbs in it. Here are some pics below. I took one of my tank, with 1 Kessil A150 10k on one side, this light on the other.

If anyone has ANY idea who makes this light, I would love to know so I can get another. My LFS doesn't seem to be able to get anymore for some reason.

The pic isn't that good to pick up the correct lighting. The LED is super super bright and like I said, like a T5 on steroids as far as the look to the eye. The Kessil is absolutely gorgeous with a great shimmer, but noticeably dimmer to the eye.

My LFS's are selling this very same unit for $300-$330ea. One of the stores has this light displayed next to an Ecoray 60d's and the TFT light they had didn't look very good. I tried to find more info of these units but no luck.

[jeffesaurusrex]

Originally Posted by HurricaneSystem

Ok guys,

Sorry for the late response, been pretty busy at work lately. A little background, I bought my fixture at my LFS. I have yet to find one like it, exactly, that is. It looks identical to the Aquariumled one, except it has 55, 3W bulbs in it. Here are some pics below. I took one of my tank, with 1 Kessil A150 10k on one side, this light on the other.

If anyone has ANY idea who makes this light, I would love to know so I can get another. My LFS doesn't seem to be able to get anymore for some reason.

The pic isn't that good to pick up the correct lighting. The LED is super super bright and like I said, like a T5 on steroids as far as the look to the eye. The Kessil is absolutely gorgeous with a great shimmer, but noticeably dimmer to the eye.

Take a look back at the last thread where the par readings were posted, on the unboxing shots of the aquariumleds units. Your light shows the exact same stickers and markings except for the very last part of the barcode sticker. Your lights look like the aquariumleds lights, slightly modified with a reflective background and a sticker on the casing.

[HurricaneSystem]

Yes exactly like them I know. The question is, who makes them for aquariumleds ?

[ianrusso]

Originally Posted by jeffesaurusrex

What do these par number mean in an actual tank environment? For example, is 100 par at 18 inches good enough to keep a clam on the sandbed? SPS anywhere? Or are those low numbers that would limit stocking choices and locations?

Look back a few pages, I think page 37 shows a graph of what each type of coral needs in regard to PAR.

[tntneon]

Originally Posted by TropTrea

For every coral the actual PUR value of the same light source will be different. Yes there are ways to calculate it if you know exactly what wavelenghts a particular coral needs. However experts have studied this for decades and have not come up any 100% accurate information available to the general public.

The light can be measured with a spectrum anylizer that is sensative in the range from 380 nm to about 720 nm. The cost of these anylizers are much more than even the some of the more elaborate systems some people have here. Then after plotting out the light source you need to compare it the needs of the actual coral or corals you are keeeping.

There realy is no easy answer. Especialy since the best lighting for corals is probably what is the ocean where they are found. Most people would consider that lighting extremly too blue. Most underwater photography we see is either very shallow water or enhansed with hight powered white strobe lights. So you cannot even compare that what is ideal for most corals.

THx TropTrea , i already thought it wouldn't be that easy .
There are still properties of light , we still do not understand , at least i don't ...

greetingzz tntneon

[BassandReef]

I have a pair of the the TaoTronics 120w 55 LEDswhich looks just like the Aquarium LED, which looks just liek teh BlueLine LEDs. I have been using this unit for three mnths and my SPS are growing wild. They are bright so, I had to shorten my photoperiod. I ame running 10 hours on my 120 tall display tank. I don't buy into the whole less expensive is cheaper. Do you really think that those $350.00 Bluelines are made in the US? I believe there is only one Chinese supplier who sells to these companies who put their names on the same lights.

I think we over complicate things to make ourselves feel better about spending a redicoulous amount of money on lights that have features that we really don't need. Thunderstorms? Really?

[cdivine]

Originally Posted by alanmorehead

I also have a Taotronics 120w (55x3W) from Ebay. It's the black housing w/ 30 blue:25 white LEDs. I'll try to get some PAR numbers for it later.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...E:L:OC:US:3160

Nice work with the PAR test. Since you own both the Taotronics and the aquariumleds do you have a personal preference between the two?

[HurricaneSystem]

cdivine, if I am not mistaken the Taotronics showed much higher PAR values than the aquariumled ones. Now granted, the aquariumled ones only have 40 lights as compared to the Taotronics having 55.

If I remember seeing the very well done testing by a member here, it was quite the PAR difference between the two.

[maroonman]

Hello all,
I know people asking about leds can be like I have read soo many forums and post and this one looks like you are talking about the same light i'm looking to buy. But Can anyone with this light system ( linked below ) tell me if 1 fixture will give me good coverage for a 40 Breeder , 36L x 18W x 16T with a 2" sandbed.

Im also confused about the 55x3W = 120watts????

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-PCS-Free-...item19d02b9a99

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by carlii

I have a pair of the the TaoTronics 120w 55 LEDswhich looks just like the Aquarium LED, which looks just liek teh BlueLine LEDs. I have been using this unit for three mnths and my SPS are growing wild. They are bright so, I had to shorten my photoperiod. I ame running 10 hours on my 120 tall display tank. I don't buy into the whole less expensive is cheaper. Do you really think that those $350.00 Bluelines are made in the US? I believe there is only one Chinese supplier who sells to these companies who put their names on the same lights.

I think we over complicate things to make ourselves feel better about spending a redicoulous amount of money on lights that have features that we really don't need. Thunderstorms? Really?

The single Chinnesse suppler is very possible. However they could still be making the lighting fixtures differently for different brand name. The driving voltage could be set differently. As well as which LED's they use. In reality there are probably at least 6 differnt brands of 3 watt LED's out there. Then even if they were to use the same brand of say Cree's there are differnet series as well as different color temps within each series.

So they may take the same design only make some minor changes that results in considerably different results.

[jk1138]

Originally Posted by maroonman

Hello all,
I know people asking about leds can be like I have read soo many forums and post and this one looks like you are talking about the same light i'm looking to buy. But Can anyone with this light system ( linked below ) tell me if 1 fixture will give me good coverage for a 40 Breeder , 36L x 18W x 16T with a 2" sandbed.

Im also confused about the 55x3W = 120watts????

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-PCS-Free-...item19d02b9a99

I have one that is very similar, I had 2 over my 40 breeder, but found it to be way too much so I went to just one. You should do well with one, but since they are disable 2 would work better.

[drunkfish3]

Originally Posted by maroonman

Hello all,
I know people asking about leds can be like I have read soo many forums and post and this one looks like you are talking about the same light i'm looking to buy. But Can anyone with this light system ( linked below ) tell me if 1 fixture will give me good coverage for a 40 Breeder , 36L x 18W x 16T with a 2" sandbed.

Im also confused about the 55x3W = 120watts????

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-PCS-Free-...item19d02b9a99

they are 3watt leds but the run them at 2 watts

[TropTrea]

Originally Posted by ianrusso

Look back a few pages, I think page 37 shows a graph of what each type of coral needs in regard to PAR.

I could not find your graph but regardless the PAR would be very msleading as the actual frequency of the light is more important.

I do remember seing an article elswhere that compared natural ocean lighting to different levels of the ocean. It was basicly where the peak was around 450 nm. Then as you increased to wave lenght by about 10 nm the the amount of light basicly droped in half for every so many meters of deeper you went into the ocean. Simularly when you went under 450 meters the amount of light decreased by roughly 1/2 for every 5 nm shorter in wave lenght er that same said multiple of meters.

Now do not quote me on thise actual numbers but the ralationship to the values with a max light of around 450 nm is important. However also keep in mind that a tank this blue for corals that came from deeper water would not be pleasing to many people at all. Therefore we add a lot of longer wavelengt light to our tanks that are little use to the corals but will skyrocket our PAR readings with a meter.

Think of it this way. If you had all warm white leds and had a PAR of 200 and someone else had all royal blue LED's and a PAR of 100 chances are with 95% of corals the individual with the royal blue LED's would have much better coral growth. However looking at the tank 98% of the people would like the looks of white LED's compared to the all Royal Blues?

[Travis1787]

Hey maroonman go back to page 7 and look from plumbcrazy he posted pics of him running just one from aquariumleds I think and its on a 40 gall breeder tank .... His one look likes pleanty