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#1 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 90
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Plumbing a UV in a reef setup
Hello
I understand that having a UV in a reef is debatable. I would like to have one plumbed in my system and use it as needed. That said, what is the best place to plumb it ? I have read some folks have it on the return line and all water goes through it into the display. I have heard of some folks running it from the sump into the sump. How is everyone who has one in reef setting running it? My water volume is ~550G and I am planning to get Aqua UV Classic 80watt. Thanks for looking. Sunny |
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#2 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Cape coral, Fl
Posts: 47
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I have mine plumbed as follows: t'd off my main retrun pump (reeflo dart)... Then it dumps back into my sump...
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#3 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 1,699
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When you say "use it as needed" I think that changes a lot how you want to plumb it. I don't use a UV sterilizer on my reef tanks but I always have one on hand in my fish closet. If you aren't going to run it constantly, then don't have water flowing through it. That will just make it a nice dark place with water flow to grown all sorts of things. If you aren't going to use it regularly, I say buy a properly fitted pump for the unit, and then just run it from your sump when you need it. From sump through the unit then back to the sump. When you are done, tear it down and clean it really well. That's what I do. No sense in dirtying it up between use. The effectiveness of a UV unit is determined almost entirely by how much UV can get from the bulb to the water flowing through it, having salt creep or stuff growing in it would be bad news.
FB
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Owning is Vortech is like having a child, it's loud and annoying but I'd do it again in a heartbeat! Current Tank Info: 40 gallon tank. SPS, LPS, few softies |
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#4 | |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 90
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Quote:
If I plumb it to the return line and allow all water to go through it before it enters the display, I am going to kill all pods that ever try to enter the display . The idea was to run it 12 hours a day. If I do not plumb it to return line, then what you said makes sense. However, I would still run 12/hr a day. Do you run yours 24/7? |
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#5 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 3,058
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They work by very slow water flow. In order to run it on your return line you would need one of two things, 1) very large uv unit, 2) very small return pump for your system
Corey |
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#6 | |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 1,699
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Quote:
In my reef tanks I don't run one. But if I even need to, I can just pull one out of the closet and put it on. In that case I would run it 24/7 until I felt the problem was resolved. I'm currently building a sizable breeding operation in my basement for fun with cardinal fish. There I plan to run UV 24/7 when I get babies. One thing to note about UVs in general. I think there is a lot of pessimism and bad information about them here on reefcentral. Basically, people first set the bar if they are only useful if they can kill ich 100%. I think that's a bad point. They have so many other uses in aquaria in general (even if not reeftanks per se). But in my cichlid tanks, I can clearly see the effects of eradicating bacterial infections resulting from injury. Also, in planted aquariums you will sometimes get green water and UV sterilizers are an IMMEDIATE fix. They are so effective at eradicating green water. Finally, for larval systems or quarantine, they can be of great benefit. There is so much more out there than just ich. People are too ich obsessed here. Eventually, all of this pessimism always leads someone to say that all aquarium UV systems must be junk. That's always the trend in these threads. I think that's bogus. Get a highly reliable sterilizer from a reputable manufacturer and it will perform just as intended. Just don't set unreal expectations. I haven't seen any direct benefits from UV in my own reef tanks, but I've I've definitely seen the effects first hand in other systems. Just determine exactly WHY you want it and what you expect from it. FB I'll add, I've worked a lot in research labs that use zebrafish as genetic model systems. These fish can take years and years to generate the mutant fish that people want and losing those fish to any bacterial infections or other pathogens is an unacceptable risk. All of those labs use UV sterilizers as a precautionary tool and most use the Aqua UV brand. So they do have a pretty good track record and people do rely on them for critical applications even thought they are referred to as "hobbyist grade" or junk around here. Again, that's a world that's not just obsessed with ich but worries more about bacteria and smaller pathogens as potential sources of problems (which is probably more realistic).
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Owning is Vortech is like having a child, it's loud and annoying but I'd do it again in a heartbeat! Current Tank Info: 40 gallon tank. SPS, LPS, few softies Last edited by Fishbulb2; 07/31/2012 at 04:02 PM. |
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#7 | |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 90
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Quote:
are very accurate. The slow rate is to kill protozoa but for algae etc they rate it at around 3000 G/hr.
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#8 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 90
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Anyone else wants to chime in please?
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#9 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 90
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Bump
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#10 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 75
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#11 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 1,691
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Don't shut the water off ever to the UV. Keep water flowing through it 24x7. What you need to do is simply shut the bulb off. Water stagnates very quickly sitting in the UV filter. So plumb it any way you want with a slow pump - like under 200 gph - then put the bulb portion on a timer.
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Setup: tank 1: 40B, BH2000 Skimmer, 20 gallon sump / Tank 2: 125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite Current Tank Info: 29g QT, 40B DT, 125G DT, 40B Sump |
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#12 |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 90
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Thanks guys. This helps.
Sunny |
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#13 | |
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Rosemead, CA
Posts: 88
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I agree with this suggestion!
Quote:
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#14 |
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Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Manasquan, NJ
Posts: 3,543
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Sunny take a look at this article.....very helpful.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/introd...ers/Page1.html Sent from my SCH-I510 using Tapatalk 2
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Steve Current Tank Info: 315g 72x36x28 DT, 80g FT, MRC sump, ATI SUNPOWER 10X80W, ATB 10.5 skimmer, Tunze 2 x 6105 & 2 x 6095, blueline 40HDX |
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#15 |
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Team RC member
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I use UV (Aqua UV) on my pond with excellent results. As a water clarifier it is superb. Not effective against parasites but then I do not expect it to be.
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Warmest regards and best wishes, ~Steve~ It is my policy to not respond to those who ask questions not to learn but to be bellicose. Life is a series of decisions serially executed but collectively judged. "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo |
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