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Old 03/03/2009, 05:43 PM   #76
MVlk
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Here are my photos of the hypothetical screwup...

Stand as is... 3 inches too deep.


Mock up of proposed fix. Would do the same with header 2x8.


Would this be OK?


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Last edited by Misled; 04/12/2018 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 03/03/2009, 07:06 PM   #77
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Are you all planing or sanding down the crown or imperfections of the 4 top rails where the tank rests?


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:42 AM   #78
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Hello Rocket and all other DIY people,

I first wanted to say what a great thread this is. It took me a couple of days but I read the entire 40 page previous thread. Some amazing work and advice given. If you can believe it I still have a few questions I would like to ask. I am a total woodworking rookie. I know they have been answered but after reading so many different responses I want to clear a few things up.

The stand I am going to build is for a standard 75 gallon with the typical 48x18 footprint.

For the upper rails. (Red and Yellow). Would 2x6's simply be overkill and add weight to the stand? From all I have read it seems as though the 2x4's are plenty and the lighter the stand the better. I just want it to be extra safe.

Next question is the wood. Sounds like it really doesn't matter too much but would you go with pressure treated or not. I had heard people using both but wondered what option would be best.

Last question involves the actual assembly. Are you supposed to glue it, clamp it, wait for it to dry and then put the screws in? Or screw it right off the bat? Is this done as a complete square or do you start with 2 pieces of the frame, then the other 2, then put all 4 together?

Also, the purple uprights, is it correct that they are not directly screwed in to the upper rails or the base. They are only screwed into each other, and the green screw strip?

Thanks so much!!


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:42 AM   #79
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Pocket screw joints

Out of curiosity, has any one used pocket hole screws to assemble their stand? I have a Kreg jig that I used on my “practice” stand (now work bench LOL) and I wanted to know what other’s thoughts and experiences were. Assembly was easy but I don’t know if it is as strong as screwing corners at 90 degrees. Two things I noticed was that some of the screws poked through the other piece even though the depth of the drill bit was set correctly and that some of the screws felt like they were stripped and spinning in place. I was using pine 2xs and the Kreg course screws. Let me know what your experiences have been. Thanks.


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:59 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reefer2727
Hello Rocket and all other DIY people,

Last question involves the actual assembly. Are you supposed to glue it, clamp it, wait for it to dry and then put the screws in? Or screw it right off the bat? Is this done as a complete square or do you start with 2 pieces of the frame, then the other 2, then put all 4 together?

Also, the purple uprights, is it correct that they are not directly screwed in to the upper rails or the base. They are only screwed into each other, and the green screw strip?

Thanks so much!!

Hi Reefer 2727,

I think I can answer these 2.

Glue and screw right off the bat. When you cut the wood, make sure the ends are square. What I do from there is to glue the ends together, place them in the clamp, then screw them together all in one setting. You can assemble the whole frame at one time instead of pieces. Once the screws are in you will not need the clamps so you can take them off and continue with the rest of the project.

From what I have read, the purple up rights do not need to be screwed into the upper or lower rail/base. Their purpose is to support the weight of the frame and tank. The green screw strips hold them in place.

HTH


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Old 03/04/2009, 09:23 AM   #81
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Thanks for the reply Rhodes,

Anyone know many clamps and what size they should be to assemble the frames?? They will be 48.5x18.5.

Thanks


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Old 03/04/2009, 10:05 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reefer2727
Thanks for the reply Rhodes,

Anyone know many clamps and what size they should be to assemble the frames?? They will be 48.5x18.5.

Thanks
Your welcome.

To make the frames you can get away with one clamp that runs the lenght of your shortest piece plus 3" for the width of the front and back piece. Glue and screw the corners, remove the clamp and go to the other end and repeat.


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Old 03/04/2009, 10:47 AM   #83
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Looks like I am going to buy a 24" bar clamp. I figured I could do it with one but in some many pictures during builds there seem to be countless clamps. The more the better though I guess.

Do you know much about sumps and overflow boxes? I am going to get this tank drilled. Wondering how many holes..I figured one drain and one return will be ok. Wondering about position..corner/middle and the actual height of the holes. The back wall will be drilled.

Thanks


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Old 03/04/2009, 11:16 AM   #84
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Anyone know roughly how many screws are required for this project?


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Old 03/04/2009, 12:04 PM   #85
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just get the 1lb box of coarse thread drywall screws in various lengths. i think i used 2 1/2", 1 5/8" & 1 1/4" depending on the dimensions of what i was joining. i also used 1 1/4" finishing nails for attaching the skin to the frame.

also, if you are doing pocket drilling to join anything, make sure the srews you use for that are flat back (like a T) instead of V shaped. the V shape can cause the wood to break out & the joint to fail


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Old 03/04/2009, 12:22 PM   #86
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Are drywall screws rustproof? I won't be doing any pocket drilling. I thought deck screws were the best option?


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Old 03/04/2009, 12:26 PM   #87
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i used drywall screws since i had them laying around from building other stuff, but yeah deck screws would be the better option.

all my screws are covered by other pieces of wood so mine should be fine....


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Yes I hear voices in my head, but they speak spanish
so I can't understand anything they say.

there's no place like 127.0.0.1

It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful....

Current Tank Info: currently tankless....but planning an AIO
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Old 03/04/2009, 02:13 PM   #88
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For my build I had about 4 screws left from the smaller box. I think that is the 1lb box James3370 mentioned. I used tan colored/coated deck screws.

I would recommend getting the bigger box in case you want to/need to do any changes to the plan. I.e. extra center bracing or correcting a measuring mess up . Besides, extra screws come in handy for other projects. Go for coated ones, they are a few bucks more but give a little extra security.


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Old 03/04/2009, 03:01 PM   #89
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Thanks MVlk. Can I assume any green or grey coated screws are rustproof?

And it is regular carpenters glue or is it a wood glue? Colour?


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Old 03/04/2009, 06:34 PM   #90
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As long as they say coated / exterior / deck screws you are good. Color is just your preference. Most seem to paint the frame before skinning, so color is not an issue for aesthetics.

Carpenters wood glue, exterior grade will work well.


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Old 03/04/2009, 06:54 PM   #91
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or gorilla glue. i used some on my 1st stand & when i went to take it apart to modify it for my current one....well it wasn't happening LOL


__________________
Yes I hear voices in my head, but they speak spanish
so I can't understand anything they say.

there's no place like 127.0.0.1

It's a shame that stupidity isn't painful....

Current Tank Info: currently tankless....but planning an AIO
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Old 03/04/2009, 07:01 PM   #92
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I heard some of the gorilla glue expands as it dries... was worried about throwing the stand off just enough to be an issue.


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Old 03/04/2009, 07:16 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally posted by MVlk
I heard some of the gorilla glue expands as it dries... was worried about throwing the stand off just enough to be an issue.
It does expand as it dries but it has a very strong bond-I used clamps and pressure to hold things together while using the gorilla glue, worked well for me. Be careful though-anywhere the glue gets on the surface to be stained(if you are staining the wood and not painting) will not look the same as the other areas without the glue-the glue clogs up the pours of the wood and the stain does not soak in as much.

I would imagine any glue will cause the same issue...


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:10 PM   #94
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square assembly

A noob here..

How do I keep the assembly square before gluing/screwing? I see the horizontal frame on top and bottom can be held together using clamps. How do I keep the vertical braces exactly straight 90 degrees to the bottom plate? I kinda get nervous it may slightly be off...

is there any trick to ensure this it is held straight before glued and screwed?


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:30 PM   #95
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Good question aravindk.

I was wondering the best way to assemble that part of the project also. Look forward to hearing some responses.


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:34 PM   #96
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Re: square assembly

Quote:
Originally posted by aravindk
A noob here..

How do I keep the assembly square before gluing/screwing? I see the horizontal frame on top and bottom can be held together using clamps. How do I keep the vertical braces exactly straight 90 degrees to the bottom plate? I kinda get nervous it may slightly be off...

is there any trick to ensure this it is held straight before glued and screwed?
I didnt worry too much about keeping the square- I just took my time, worked on a level surface and lined everything up. I think the most important part of keeping the frame square was making good consistant cuts on the wood. Your going to be hard pressed to get the square perfect but if you can keep it close you will be fine..mine wasnt perfect but it came out good.


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:37 PM   #97
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Also, what would be a good sized drill bit to use for pilot holes? I guess it matters which screw is used but what would be good fo the average deck screw?

Another absolutely stupid question but whatever....when I am drilling pilot holes, I only drill them through the first piece correct? For example on the bottom frame pieces...I would pilot the orange piece and not the blue end piece??

As you can tell I know nothing!!


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:40 PM   #98
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one more question that I have is, the screws in some of the pictures are pretty close to the edge of the wood. In one of my previous projects, nailing a drywall screw closer to the edge always ended up splitting the wood. How do I avoid this situation?


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:42 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally posted by Reefer2727
Also, what would be a good sized drill bit to use for pilot holes? I guess it matters which screw is used but what would be good fo the average deck screw?

Another absolutely stupid question but whatever....when I am drilling pilot holes, I only drill them through the first piece correct? For example on the bottom frame pieces...I would pilot the orange piece and not the blue end piece??

As you can tell I know nothing!!
I drilled through both boards-they tend to get messy and split when no pilot hole exsists-I use a drill bit slightly smaller than the screw's shank(not the threads) This lets the threads grip the wood firmly while limiting the amount of wood being displaced by the screw.


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Old 03/04/2009, 08:43 PM   #100
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Another question regarding the weight of the stand.

Could anyone ballpark what the weight of this stand built for a standard 75 gallon would be?

I am curious what the difference would be between 2x4's and 2x6's as far as weight goes.

I think I am going to do the top and bottom rails as 2x6's. Im all about over kill. Actually I may do 2x4's along the bottom in order to give me more room for the sump area. An extra 2" I guess.


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