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Unread 08/13/2007, 02:23 PM   #51
RocketEngineer
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tigerarmy40 - That looks great. Nice job and thanks for posting the pics.

Siffy, Good point on the bottom. Notching it out around the screw strips would make it the full size and give ample room for equipment.

Keep the comments coming.


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Unread 08/21/2007, 07:37 PM   #52
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Well, since I closed on a house over the weekend and did some minor demo, I had some 2X4s lying around and figured I would build a stand/work bench.

First off, the stand is 50" X 20" X 32" and will eventually support a 75g tank. As the 2X4s were from a 1950s house, the dimensions were a little off from the 1.5" X 3.5"

The materials:
(4) 50"
(4) 16-5/8"
(4) 24-3/4"
(4) 31"
Box of 3" deck screws (2-1/2" recommended for new 2X4s)

Tools:
Chop Saw
Cordless Drill with Philips bit

Pic of the cut boards:


The top and bottom frames assembled:


And the completed stand:


Things I would have done differently:
1) A couple of clamps would have helped alot. Being old, the boards were not exactly straight
2) Pilot drilling all the holes
3) Would have used star drive screws instead of Philips

Enjoy my first attempt with very minimal tools. Have a good laugh but just remember we all started out with just the basics.


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Unread 08/21/2007, 10:32 PM   #53
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Nice work, RE, you plan to finish it?

Torx or Hex screws would help if you don't plan to drill pilot holes. Phillips are designed to slip, so pilot holes are almost required to not be a pita.

If you do decide to use Phillips, make sure to use a large enough bit/driver to reduce excessive slipping.


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Unread 08/23/2007, 10:04 AM   #54
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I am building a stand for a 180 or 210 gallon tank. I would prefer to stick with 2x4s instead of 2x8s.

In your opinion, would a couple center supports along the length of 72" be enough? to bypass the 2x8s of this plan? Possibly even 3 in the rear and 2 in the front?

Thanks,
Michael


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Unread 08/23/2007, 10:44 AM   #55
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2x6's would suffice without a center brace. With a single center brace (one front and one back), 2x4's should be fine.

"2X4 for 48" or less for smaller tanks; 2X6 up to 72""

With a center brace on a 72" span you can somewhat treat it like 2 36" spans.


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Unread 08/23/2007, 11:26 AM   #56
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Do you think placing the 2x4 support 1' from each end, (giving a 4' opening), would suffice for an expanse of 6' with a 2x4 rail?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to figure out all my options. haha

Thanks again,
Michael


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Unread 08/23/2007, 05:30 PM   #57
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Siffy,
Since I just bought a house, I'm kind of strapped for cash and won't be setting up the 75 for a while. For now this will just stay a work bench. Later I plan to re-assemble it with some clamps and will finish it at that time.

Micheal,
Placing a 2X4 support in the center of the stand both front and back should be more then enough to keep things properly supported especially if its a glass tank.

Hope that helps.


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Unread 08/23/2007, 08:34 PM   #58
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This thread is GREAT!

I have my top and bottom built and all of the wood cut.

I am not sure I understand how I attach the legs to the top and bottom.

Do I screw from the bottom of the base and top of the top or just use the screw strips?


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Unread 08/23/2007, 09:19 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally posted by laud
Do you think placing the 2x4 support 1' from each end, (giving a 4' opening), would suffice for an expanse of 6' with a 2x4 rail?

Sorry for all the questions but I'm trying to figure out all my options. haha

Thanks again,
Michael
Michael,
That should be fine given you limit yourself to a 4' span. I'm just thinking 2x4's should be fine on a 120g, so they're fine here too. I have a 60" stand (odd size, 70g, think 55g + 1' longer) factory built similarly. Double doors in the middle allow a lil over 24" opening in my case.

RocketEngineer,
I know how that is. Same position here for the past 2 months. Not the house, but tight budget for a bit. Why the re-assembly? Trying to straighten the boards?

Dwight,
You screw through the base sections into the screw strips and through the legs into the screw strips. That's it. Nothing directly binds the legs to either bases. I know, it seems too simple to be correct.


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Unread 08/23/2007, 10:03 PM   #60
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RocketEngineer - Thanks for the simple yet effect design.

As a trial run, I adjusted the dimensions of the stand and made a riser platform for our front loading washer/dryer set. Works great.

Waiting for the paint to dry.


Rock solid. No additional vibration.



But I have a question or two. I'm building my stand for a 135 gal acryllic tank. I plan to use the recommended 2x6 top frame with a pair of 2x4 cross braces. Then put a sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood on the top plus a sheet of foam. Anything else I should take into account when building a stand for an acryllic tank?

I am also considering using sheets of Formica or WilsonArt (from Home Depot) laminate instead of staining or painting the exterior. The interior will be painted and caulked to protect it and my carpet. Anyone else tried this? I've never had much luck staining and urethaning furniture and this seems like a reasonable alternative.

Has anyone ever used the StringTie connectors? They list the typical corrosion risks associated with metal in marine environments, but if they are painted over, won't they be protected?

Any thoughts?

todd



Last edited by justanotherguy; 08/23/2007 at 10:49 PM.
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Unread 08/24/2007, 04:48 AM   #61
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Thanks Siffy, that is what I thought, but it did seem way to simple.

Cna I assume that I should screw the 2 @x$'s for each leg together first and then attach them to the screw strips?

I am no Bob Villa, so thanks for answering my questions.


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Unread 08/24/2007, 05:52 AM   #62
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this is a quick idea of what I want as a stand for my 120 4x2x2

stand would be 66"x36"x30" tall

what do you think would be the best top rails and should there be 3 top rails and center or 2 corner supports for the tank?

I like having the counter space around the tank for kitty tv and testing plus makes for more under tank space...
andy


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Unread 08/24/2007, 06:47 AM   #63
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Dwight,
Siffy got it correct. Just screw from the base frame into the screw strip, then set the legs in place and screw those to the screw strip, then screw the top frame to the screw strip. 2-4 screws in each place should be more then enough. If you screw from both sides of the frame's corners into the screw strips, it makes things much stronger.

Siffy,
The bottom frame has a wicked twist to it that I hope to fix. Funny though, where I plan on putting the stand, the floor is so out of whack that the stand sits almost perfect. Go figure.

Todd,
I love the box under the washer and dryer idea. I may have to copy that one.

As for the stand, from everything I have read about acrylic tanks, you want the stand to be as stiff as possible. I like the fomica idea because it would be easy to keep clean. If you put plywood under the fomica and attached it to all sides, you can really stiffen up the main beams. 2X6s should work for the weight especially if the stand is faced in plywood on the two long sides.

Andy,
Some thoughts on the matter. First I LIKE IT! Especially the part about the cat viewing area. I would tend towards making a stand for just the tank with two joists supporting the tank and a third for the front. For a tank that size I would definatly go 2X6 if it were only supported at the 66" mark. If you can, putting a leg under each corner of the tank would make things alot simpler. Let me work on this and I should be able to get you some ideas to consider over the weekend. Housework letting the brain work on autopilot is dangerous but with a challenge like this, makes the time fly.

Everyone who has read/posted. Thanks for the comments and don't be shy about posting similar stand pics or questions.


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Unread 08/24/2007, 07:19 AM   #64
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Very nice thread.

I am also considering my next stand design to be similar to Andy's. Two main differences: smaller tank 36x18x18 and its acrylic. I built my first stand using corner posts like Rocket's diagram using all 2x4s on a 120g 48x24x24. This time I wanted to use 1x4s in a similar design. I was planning to double up on the horizontal supports but am now concerned about the stand "dipping" in the middle. Any thoughts?

One other thing I would mention from experience, my last design did not originally have a "top" of plywood like many have mentioned being unnecessary. I found resting the tank directly on the 2x4s a bad idea because of the less than straight nature of the boards, lots of high/low spots. I'm sure a planner or other tool could correct this but for those of use without access, I found shims, a sander, and 3/4" plywood a lot easier to get a good, level surface out of.


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Unread 08/24/2007, 08:05 AM   #65
samtheman
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Quote:
Originally posted by slevesque
Hi, what would be an optimal stand height for a 12" high tank?
About 7' high, but I like to overbuild to be safe, just like these stand designs.


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Unread 08/24/2007, 11:37 AM   #66
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Rocket, thanks for all the plans!

Siffy, thanks for the modifications.

Here is the product of your hard work. hehe





Last edited by laud; 08/24/2007 at 11:43 AM.
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Unread 08/24/2007, 01:22 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally posted by RocketEngineer
Todd,
I love the box under the washer and dryer idea. I may have to copy that one.

As for the stand, from everything I have read about acrylic tanks, you want the stand to be as stiff as possible. I like the fomica idea because it would be easy to keep clean. If you put plywood under the fomica and attached it to all sides, you can really stiffen up the main beams. 2X6s should work for the weight especially if the stand is faced in plywood on the two long sides.
Check out my blog (little red house) for some details on the riser.

I plan to skin the 2x frame in plywood. Hadn't intended to skin the whole back. Just use 1' triangles in the corners. And the plywood on the front won't provide much structure anyway since most of it will be mostly just a place to mount Formica with a big opening for access. I've been thinking about the advantages of eliminating the support in the front. I like the idea of the big opening, but then I have to figure out how to hang doors to cover the opening. I like what laud has done. And I look forward to what you come up with for saltwaterfishlover.

One more thing. For the skin (but not the top which supports the tank), how much effect is there if I use 1/2" ply instead of 3/4"?

todd


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Unread 08/26/2007, 04:31 PM   #68
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Here's my 6 foot stand for my 150, it's 40" high. Thanks for the design. It feels rock solid, but I'm not an engineer so I find myself really wanting to put in middle upright braces .



The modificiations on the bottom are where my 40 breeder sump will sit, and since it can't go between the supports I figured this would work.

Dave


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Unread 08/26/2007, 07:29 PM   #69
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here is my 5' stand for my 150,they are very solid as a frame and super solid once skinned out.






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Unread 08/27/2007, 01:45 AM   #70
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Very interesting thread !!!! Thanks RE.
If you could please help me just step in this thread and shed some ideas on a fish breeding stand.
Anderson.


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Unread 08/27/2007, 05:23 AM   #71
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ok heres a good qustion. In a few months we are going to start building our new tank. Its going to be a glass and plywood tank. 48" x 60" x 28"tall The stand desighn i had thought up would require about 22 2"x6". I want the stand 36" tall. some desighn ideas would be a big help.


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Unread 08/27/2007, 05:59 AM   #72
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I would use the same design this thread is based upon with the addition of 2 horizontal runners sitting on their own legs (legs ~18" apart, 4 on each side). Both the top base and the additional support would rest on the addition leg. 2x2 screw strips could be used to hold them in place. And I would use 2x4s instead of 2x6s. Another horizontal member would also be added to the lower base to support the leg. This would also support plywood if you intend to put any as a floor inside the stand for a sump, but with a tank that large I would imagine a separate room for most equipment.


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Unread 08/27/2007, 06:34 AM   #73
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The tank will have nothing under the stand. Its actually going in a wall so having no space under the stand is not a problem. the sump will sit against another wall. I guessing the full tank ( water rock corals etc.) will weigh somewhere around 3000lbs + so thats why i was thinking 2x6.


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Unread 08/27/2007, 11:30 AM   #74
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saltwaterfishlover
Here is the simplest idea I could come up with:


Orange = 66"
Red = 63"
Green = 34.5"
Yellow = 21"

Depending on what you made the top frame out of, you could either put a leg at each of the outer corners and at each corner of where the tank would sit for a total of 8 OR one leg at each outer corner, one leg under each of the front corners of the tank and one in the center at the back.

Phisher,
As 1X4's are significantly weaker under compression (more likely to bend), a good stiff 2X2 screw strip will be needed if you only have the front set of uprights. If you have all 8 uprights and attach them to make an "L" at each corner, you sould be just fine. For beams of that length, 1X4s sandwiched together should prevent any sag in the middle. Placing a piece of 1/2" plywood between the two boards would also help to stiffen it.

laud,
Glad I could help. Very nice. Keep me posted, attach a link to a build thread when you get that far.

djc1026,
Thanks for the pics. A good example of how to support a sump in one of these stands when it doesnt fit.

checkinhawk,
Considering the bare frame versus the final product, I'm impressed. I have also considered making the sides a little longer to cover up the pipes and wires. Now seeing this, I may do the same in the future.

aomont(Anderson),
Looking at your design, I would construct the levels in much the same way as this stand is made. The only difference is that instead of having the screw strip on the inside, consider putting it on the outside of the frames. Also, you can stack the frames on top of each other fairly easily.

slandis3,
Wow, have to think about this one. Check out the Large Tank forum. There are several plywood tanks in there and they show how those tanks were framed.

Thanks everyone for the posts. Keep the pictures coming.


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Unread 08/27/2007, 12:10 PM   #75
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Thank you for your input RE would the screw strip on the outside be of the same "width" (10 cm) or larger (15 cm) to match both uprights ? I´m also interested in knowing the difference between inside and outside screw strips ?

There will be room for 3 full stands. One will have a wall on the back and I can screw it to the wall. The other 2 would be in the middle of the room back to back on each other, that´s why I was thinking on using something to fasten them against the ceiling.

Sorry but didn´t get what you said about opposing wedges on that thread... I´m not a native english speaker nor good at wood work so, if you have the time, show me a draw, picture or anything you find useful to get it !
Thanks again.
Anderson.


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