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Old 11/14/2018, 01:59 PM   #1
monti1
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Calcium and Alk

Hi folks,

Iíve been struggling with what I feel are high numbers for both. Fresh off a 5 gallon water change last night and Iím showing calcium at 470 and Alk at 8.9. Iíve been doing a weekly water change with Red Sea coral pro and those parameters have been pretty consistent.

I have 3-4 montipora pieces in the tank. A cap frag, 2 encrusting monti frags and a digita frag. Out side of that a few LPS pieces and a toadstool.

Tank is a JBJ 24 and like I said before Iíve done weekly 5 gallon changes. Tank had been set up for 3 months, has a Tunze 9001 skimmer, mp10 and a Kessil 180 light.

Polyp extension on the Montis isnít great and coloring is ok.

Iím just trying to find out why the parameters are high and see what I should do long term.

Thanks


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Old 11/14/2018, 01:59 PM   #2
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Testing with Salifert test kits for both BTW


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Old 11/14/2018, 02:04 PM   #3
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Tested your new salt mix? Your a little high, but certainly well within normal limits.


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Old 11/14/2018, 02:05 PM   #4
Uncle99
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Red Sea Pro mixes very high in the ranges on purpose.
If you like Red Sea but want lower numbers, use the light blue bucket instead of the black one.
Also, make sure mag is in the 1250-1350 range


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Old 11/14/2018, 02:49 PM   #5
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Tested your new salt mix? Your a little high, but certainly well within normal limits.


I have not. I should probably do that on the next water change. Thank you


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Old 11/14/2018, 02:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Red Sea Pro mixes very high in the ranges on purpose.
If you like Red Sea but want lower numbers, use the light blue bucket instead of the black one.
Also, make sure mag is in the 1250-1350 range


Honestly Iím not sold on the salt. The directions say to change the water within 4 hours of being mixed and I like to leave some salt made up on hand just in case. I was using instant ocean and may go back to that. Iíll have to check the mag tonight. Iím assuming that with my coral load and weekly changes I shouldnít really have to dose.

I have 2 part ready to go just in case. Thanks for the feedback.


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Old 11/14/2018, 05:21 PM   #7
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Many successful tanks use regular old purple box IO, myself included. The old saying of "if it aint broken, why fix it?" is a good saying for reefing.



Only thing I do for IO is lower the alk as it consistently mixes up to 10DKH. Every other parameter is spot on.


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Old 11/14/2018, 05:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monti1 View Post
Honestly I’m not sold on the salt. The directions say to change the water within 4 hours of being mixed and I like to leave some salt made up on hand just in case. I was using instant ocean and may go back to that. I’ll have to check the mag tonight. I’m assuming that with my coral load and weekly changes I shouldn’t really have to dose.

I have 2 part ready to go just in case. Thanks for the feedback.


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Very nice tank by the way, love the clown, nice mix of corals, well done.

4 hours, I don't do this, nuts.

To me, salt is salt, the difference IMO is the mix, the higher the range, likely a bit more expensive. That said, I have seen the most beautiful tanks using RC and IO.

MG prevents the AlK and the CA from just coming together quickly, before the coral can uptake. Low MG makes both harder to maintain.

Pick your salt firstly from what ranges you expect to keep constant and with a minimal load, the WC should be sufficient.

Ugly stages absolutely no fun. I find it better to keep the water quality consistent rather than "clean", i.e., I only do WC based on nitrate and phosphate levels. When my nitrate gets 5ppm and /or phosphate exceeds .1, then I do a small change. This change drops nitrate to 2.5 ppm and phosphate .05.

Maybe some of this helps, maybe not, it's just one way.

Your going to be really pleased when the ugly stages end, but yes, oh yes, annoying and frustrating during.

Best of luck!


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Old 11/14/2018, 05:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle99 View Post

To me, salt is salt, the difference IMO is the mix, the higher the range, likely a bit more expensive. That said, I have seen the most beautiful tanks using RC and IO.


Your going to be really pleased when the ugly stages end, but yes, oh yes, annoying and frustrating during.

Best of luck!

+1 This


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Old 11/14/2018, 09:26 PM   #10
monti1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer1475 View Post
Many successful tanks use regular old purple box IO, myself included. The old saying of "if it aint broken, why fix it?" is a good saying for reefing.



Only thing I do for IO is lower the alk as it consistently mixes up to 10DKH. Every other parameter is spot on.


Not to sound completely retarded but what do you do to lower the Alk? Iíve kept reefs of and on for many years. Almost always LPS based tanks where I hardly ever checked Alk. Now I have a much smaller tank with swings and a few SPS pieces.


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Old 11/14/2018, 09:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle99 View Post
Very nice tank by the way, love the clown, nice mix of corals, well done.

4 hours, I don't do this, nuts.

To me, salt is salt, the difference IMO is the mix, the higher the range, likely a bit more expensive. That said, I have seen the most beautiful tanks using RC and IO.

MG prevents the AlK and the CA from just coming together quickly, before the coral can uptake. Low MG makes both harder to maintain.

Pick your salt firstly from what ranges you expect to keep constant and with a minimal load, the WC should be sufficient.

Ugly stages absolutely no fun. I find it better to keep the water quality consistent rather than "clean", i.e., I only do WC based on nitrate and phosphate levels. When my nitrate gets 5ppm and /or phosphate exceeds .1, then I do a small change. This change drops nitrate to 2.5 ppm and phosphate .05.

Maybe some of this helps, maybe not, it's just one way.

Your going to be really pleased when the ugly stages end, but yes, oh yes, annoying and frustrating during.

Best of luck!


Thanks for the kind words. Iím hoping to add a little more rock up top and a few more corals and let it grow. Hereís to hoping.

I agree with the donít worry about super clean water and worry about consistent parameters. I think I get in my own head a little with a small tank and think I need to change water constantly. Iíve been debating slowing that down and keeping an eye on the parameters.

I do need to start monitoring mag more because I couldnít even tell you the last time I checked it. Thanks again for the input.

Rick


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Old 11/14/2018, 11:00 PM   #12
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Those numbers are safe as is, for most setups, so I wouldn't worry much yet. I agree that testing the salt mix is the first step. I suspect that the product in question mixes up at about those levels or higher.


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Old 11/15/2018, 04:36 AM   #13
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Lower alk with muriatic acid.



Calculations for figuring out dosage...


water volume x DKH drop x 0.123 = amount to add in ML.



Example:

25 gallons of water, 2.5dkh drop x .123 = (this is my typical calculations for my 25G brute)7.68 or in my case I would just add 7.5 and test. This will usually take me to just around 8.5DKH.


Just keep in mind that the PH will drastically fall when adding the acid. Let your SW mix for another 24 hours before using to bring the PH back up.



And for the love of all things salty, under no circumstances should acid be added to a running system.


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Old 11/15/2018, 07:39 AM   #14
monti1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer1475 View Post
Lower alk with muriatic acid.



Calculations for figuring out dosage...


water volume x DKH drop x 0.123 = amount to add in ML.



Example:

25 gallons of water, 2.5dkh drop x .123 = (this is my typical calculations for my 25G brute)7.68 or in my case I would just add 7.5 and test. This will usually take me to just around 8.5DKH.


Just keep in mind that the PH will drastically fall when adding the acid. Let your SW mix for another 24 hours before using to bring the PH back up.



And for the love of all things salty, under no circumstances should acid be added to a running system.


Thank you! I like the ďfor the love of all things saltyĒ I could just see someone dumping acid in their reef


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Old 11/15/2018, 07:43 AM   #15
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You laugh, but it's been done. Thats the reason for the disclaimer.


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Old 11/15/2018, 07:14 PM   #16
monti1
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You laugh, but it's been done. Thats the reason for the disclaimer.


Sadly Iím sure


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Old 11/22/2018, 02:58 PM   #17
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Your alk is not that high so I wouldn't go out of the way to lower it. You run the risk of doing more harm than good.

Your tank is only 3 months old and looks pretty good so I would just sit back and enjoy for a while.

If you want lower alk switch to a salt that doesn't mix so high. I'm about to go from RC back to IO for that same reason.


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Old 11/22/2018, 04:44 PM   #18
monti1
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Your alk is not that high so I wouldn't go out of the way to lower it. You run the risk of doing more harm than good.

Your tank is only 3 months old and looks pretty good so I would just sit back and enjoy for a while.

If you want lower alk switch to a salt that doesn't mix so high. I'm about to go from RC back to IO for that same reason.


Thatís the plan. I just mixed up a new water change and the parameters are calcium 440 alk 10.0 mag 1400. Iím just going to leave it alone and continue us water changes for now.

Thanks for the help folks!


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