My Project ★ GENESIS ★ 110G (Miracle) SPS Dream Tank - (II) Build Thread

[Rakie]

Flow coming from front to back of the tank is awesome, that's why the HUGE tanks typically have sea swirls in the front corners.

If you want to up your flow get VCA return nozzles, they are magical. No joke, they actually are all they're cracked up to be -- no BS.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Rakie

Flow coming from front to back of the tank is awesome, that's why the HUGE tanks typically have sea swirls in the front corners.

If you want to up your flow get VCA return nozzles, they are magical. No joke, they actually are all they're cracked up to be -- no BS.

I googled VCA Nozzle and found nothing. Can you point to me to the right place. For someday down the road when I have 2 foot SPS colonies

I have only one choice for Front to Back. (Middle). I went with Smaller holes in the Front Corners. (Not sure the reasoning).

However there is another option for Front Corners. Just hard PVC pipe, pointing static.

ALL for the future.

Right now I have zero Fish, zero Corals. Zero Rocks.
Must solve those 3 first.

[Fredfish]

What are we going to do when you're all done your build Wally?

We'll all go through Wally.B withdrawal.

[Rakie]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

I googled VCA Nozzle and found nothing. Can you point to me to the right place. For someday down the road when I have 2 foot SPS colonies

I have only one choice for Front to Back. (Middle). I went with Smaller holes in the Front Corners. (Not sure the reasoning).

However there is another option for Front Corners. Just hard PVC pipe, pointing static.

ALL for the future.

Right now I have zero Fish, zero Corals. Zero Rocks.
Must solve those 3 first.

Yep, in the corners pointing towards their prospective 2/3 of the tank I would use VCA nozzles. VCA is "Vivid Creative Aquatics" and their nozzles are RFG "Random Flow Generator"

With zero moving parts, they use 3D printed plastics to make a return jet have 100% randomized flow. The texture of the return jet allows the water to randomly take 1 of 6 flow directions, giving you a completely randomized alternating flow.

VCA website

Here is a video showing their 3/4" RFG with 300gph of flow, and they introduce air bubbles so you can see the flow pattern (Video link didn't post...)



Here's their 1" with 900gph. The more flow you shove through their product the better and more randomized their flow will be.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAQhw-FqFyw



EDIT: Video link didn't post. I can tell you at RAP in so cal our 150g display tank had ZERO flow other than the return pump, we attached two 3/4" VCA to our tanks return and had proper flow for the whole tank after that.

They are all they're cracked up to be.

[Wally.B]

Sea Swirl Installed (Ready for Return Pump) Raised and Siphon Break

I can hook up tank to sump in 1 minute (when ready)


Here is how I ran the Return Pump hose to The Swirl



I'm not sure how much will drain into Sump on (power off), so I did two things to minimize.
Not sure how much Sump will handle. (less drain is better anyway).

Mounting Bracket not need with the Euro Trim



Couple of Extra Koralia Magnetic Suction Pads, and some Black Egg Crate for a bit more height.



Also added a Small Siphon break hole.




Finally I have motivation to do Water tests.

BTW. I have fish plans since these are now available. (Black Cap Basslet, Melanarus Wrasse, ...??)

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Fredfish

What are we going to do when you're all done your build Wally?

We'll all go through Wally.B withdrawal.

It will be ages before I'm done.
I'll be killing SPS and try to find solutions, . Probably get back into my Additive Additives. Start Algae Bloom... Build a algae machine
You won't be bored for years.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Rakie

Yep, in the corners pointing towards their prospective 2/3 of the tank I would use VCA nozzles. VCA is "Vivid Creative Aquatics" and their nozzles are RFG "Random Flow Generator"

With zero moving parts, they use 3D printed plastics to make a return jet have 100% randomized flow. The texture of the return jet allows the water to randomly take 1 of 6 flow directions, giving you a completely randomized alternating flow.

VCA website

Here is a video showing their 3/4" RFG with 300gph of flow, and they introduce air bubbles so you can see the flow pattern (Video link didn't post...)



Here's their 1" with 900gph. The more flow you shove through their product the better and more randomized their flow will be.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAQhw-FqFyw



EDIT: Video link didn't post. I can tell you at RAP in so cal our 150g display tank had ZERO flow other than the return pump, we attached two 3/4" VCA to our tanks return and had proper flow for the whole tank after that.

They are all they're cracked up to be.

Price is not bad. Maybe I'll get one. Not yet. Later.

[Rakie]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

Price is not bad. Maybe I'll get one. Not yet. Later.

Oh yeah, at $20 (they are now on Bulk Reef Supply too) prices don't get much better. Hell, if I could afford it I'd be running a sea swirl in all 4 corners of my cube.

Oh yeah -- All the guys in my club that run sea swirls attached the RFG's to them, makes 'em double awesome.

[Wally.B]

REALLY UPSET (Neptune APex VDM * DOA Failure Brand New * )

So I purchased another Apex VDM Module last week. To control my LED Strip, My Variable Speed Pumps, and have one Port spare.

It was brand new. I just mounted it an didn't hook up.

Now I tried it. It works, in the sense that Controller picks up the Module. It's leds blink on an Off when COntrolled. But the Votage doesn't go from (0-10V) like it should. It just stays 14Volts on all ports.

I read on forum that this problem is common on VDM's. Cheap Parts and some fail.

So I call my Supplier, and he tell me I cannot get a replacement for a BRAND new unit that is DOA.

I need to call Apex for Warranty.
THat is BS.

Now I may be waiting for weeks to fix something that was sold to me and arrived in not working condition.

Neptune Support closed on Weekends.

I opened a ticket, and we'll see how they do.

Really upset, since after all this work, it ends in IN-COMPLETE due to a new Part.

When I go to a computer store and buy a keyboard or mouse, and it doesn't work. I can exchange it for a replacement.
But Supplier say's Neptune doesn't allow that. (That they fix many problems over phone, email)....But this is HW 100%

[Rakie]

Sorry to hear that Wally! That sucks, and it happens more often than it should.

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by Rakie

Sorry to hear that Wally! That sucks, and it happens more often than it should.

Yeah, it SUCKS big time. But I am cheered up a big with a small distraction (FOUND A FISH).....

I dropped by local Fish store 5 mins away.
Found out they are having a Midnight Madness sale.
15% off from 6-8pm, 25% off from 9-11, and 35% off from 11-midnight.

They have all kinds of wrasses, (Fairy Wrasses: Yellow Flanked, Lubbock Fairy, Carpenter Flasher Wrasse)

and this one caught my attention (Not sure of name)...



It caught my attention. The Blue Colors, Orange Face, and more Crisper Color Pattern, than more blurry Wrasse.

At 35% off, I'll throw it into my 10 Gallon QT while I look for other fish, and finish up tank.

Any thoughts? Can someone ID it?



I won't be putty any Sand into my Tank...So small concern.

[Rakie]

Read Head Solon Fairy Wrasse -- (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)

They're supposedly decent temperament wise, so could be a good addition. Sadly, i don't know anybody who has first hand experience.

[Wally.B]

Fish QT SETUP (New Fish) Tonight

Thanks Rakie. I looked it up (SOLON WRASSE). Looks not bad, compare to terrible (Six Lines, or Lunars)

Hopefully tonight, I'll get a fish or two at the sale.

I setup PERFECT 10Gal QT. With Lid if a Jumper.

I called the store and got their Fish Tank Section Salinity (1.019).
So I made the QT match.



Will make acclimatization faster, less stress to fish.

When time is right, I'll raise Salnity to match DT slowly.

I have 2nd 10 Gallon on standby for Hospital Tank if treatment is needed.

[Rakie]

Sounds good! Some places might call that wrasse a Tricolor wrasse by the way.

[Wally.B]

Got 4 new Fish + One Fish for Other Tank (At the Midnight Sale)

The Extra Fish is a Copper Band Butterfy, to take care of the Aptasia bloom in Upstair Kitchen tank. Less $ than the two peppermints I got (see them nowhere).

Rakie, 100% I was thinking about your Advice when selecting fish in the store. About getting tank with different swimming zones.

-> Got the Black Capped Basset (Couldn't belive the had one). Will cancel my other Wait List order.

-> Got the Tri-Color Wrasse

-> and got a Pair of Anthias. Even the store didn't have the right tag on them, so I'll have to find out their species. Pinkish. Yellow tail. Stripes on back. (Look kind of like a Red Saddled Anthias)
I decided on a pair instead of just one....., since there were 3, and these two were inseparable.

DID REALLY PROPER ACCLIMATIZE....Water same as store, and slow dripped before going in.
May setup the 2nd QT, for now they are in QT-01. Low lighting.

This is getting Fun and Exciting.

[Rakie]

Sounds good!

Yeah I most notice swimming zones with my wrasse, and the bigger the tank, the more obvious it is. My melanurus would cruise the bottom, the fairy wrasse are in the bottom 2/3 of the tank, and the flashers are usually in the upper 2/3 of the tank. It's really interesting. If you had a really tall tank like 3' or so I'm sure you could do some really interesting stuff with fish swimming zones.

[Wally.B]

New QT (Fish) Wrasse, and Anthias

So one Anthias died barely in QT (few hours) last night.
My suspicion was that it got hurt since A Rock Fell on it during LFS capture process. I noticed, but it kept swimming so didn't say much.

Got a replacement today (last one). Not Free, but reduced below yesterdays sale price.
I had to since I wanted a pair, and maybe a 2nd wouldn't come in next while.

Here is Tri-Color Wrasse and the pair. Black Capped Basslet pops out and protects the Mountain Cave.



Rakie, you are ID expert. What type is this Anthias?




I swear it is pinkish, but in photo's comes out orange.
It's my QT light, since the Wrasse is Blue as posted above, but in photo just above it is green.


I got a TIP from Tenurpro, to add more flow to suspend food.
Appears that is working to get Anthias to eat (kind of all the time nibblers).

Any advice on Anthias Care? Never had one.

[Wally.B]

Tunzie (Care Magnet Strong) Glass Cleaner (AWESOME Mag Power, Trustworthy) Great with Office Side Access Door.

Cracked open the Box with the Tunzie Care Glass Cleaner.
Really Happy.

Magnets are strong and handle my 1/2" glass No Problem.

Cleaning edges are Hard Plastic with Bite, but no scratch. Even has a Sand Gard on Wider Blade.

Really useful to have on end wider, and other end more narrow Blade.

Rounded edges made going around corners smooth, effort free.

Doesn't have to be a Float Glass Cleaner since it will never fall off.



My side Door is perfect since I can clean all 4 sides (two rooms) (no removing)

Narrow Handle part, Slick Design....Looks good enough to Leave in Tank (visible).



Worth Every (High Price) Penny to me.

[Wally.B]

T5 Reflectors (NOW Properly Installed) Oops

Pictures say it all.



Tank looks better now, and that Clear Silicone Corner is looking really nice with the Reflector correction (Glowing Crystal Look)

Wish I had a PAR Meter to test tank Lighting. (coming soon)...

[Rakie]

Red Saddled or Saddleback Anthias I think. See the yellow dotted-striations on the side, going from head towards the tail? There's a few with the "saddled" back stripes, so it's the striated dots that make me think it's a saddleback. Some really rare ones look surprisingly similar




Example of one that's kind of similar (not a dead-ringer though) -- Lori's anthias



Head shape is different, and the yellow/gold striations on the side are less pronounced, which can be augmented by photomagic or lighting.


Also I found out I do have a friend with a tricolor (solon) wrasse. Apparently he's exceptionally well behaved for his size, maybe even a bit timid. She told me her YWG and Clown pushed him around at first.

[Wally.B]

All Good New Rakie.
Anthias could be Saddle backs.
Since the ones I got were in specialty Tank.
They were $69 each Regular Price, and if not for the Midnight Madness sale, they would be out of my Price range.

Glad the Tri-Color Wrasse is timid.

I was looking at interesting Wrasse, and guy said (stay away).
I can't remember name. SabreTooth, or Horn, or something.
Mega Predator Said if I put him into my tank, I'd have no fish left in short time.
He pointed to the teeth and I got his point.

[Wally.B]

Delaying OLD Tank merge (High N&P) doing clean up before hand

Did water tests on 65 Gal. (No WC for months)

ALK was 6.1 so easy fix to bring to 7.5 No corals

But Nitrate was a firm 50 ppm.

Phosphate was 0.48 ppm

i can't join tanks since bringing the 110G online would be around 50% WC and would only bring down N to 25. And P to 0.24.
That would not be a good starting point for new setup.

With lots of lighting in new setup.....I would probably end up with a bad algae bloom on my hands. Plus bringing down levels to SPS quality would be a long stuggle with more fish.

So I put on my GFO reactor (fresh media) to bring down P.
And for N I added two NEW bags if Chemipure (regular).

If needed I will do water changes and wait till 65G has N around 5 and P close to 0.1. (Then join in 110 G tank and N drops to Below 2.5 and P to around 0.05)

This way joining two tanks will bring over biology and not bad chem.

Good plan?

Or waste of time??? Should I just start up new tank fresh, bring over lots of live rock, and let it do a small quick cycle with whatever is active in sump and rocks???? Just one yellow Tang to start.

[Wally.B]

The PUZZLING Part if N & P has been so high, IS WHY IS MY ALGAE SCRUBER NOT PRDUCING Algae. I haven't put back my booster LED so I will.

I should test Potassium since that could be a factor if all has been striped from water.

Overall this mystery makes me want to lean towards starting the new tank FRESH and not bring over 65G's Bad Old History. (Which is the Last Thing in the World I want....that would be depressing after so much effort to restart the GENESES PLAN!!!

[tenurepro]

Originally Posted by Wally.B

Delaying OLD Tank merge (High N&P) doing clean up before hand

Did water tests on 65 Gal. (No WC for months)

ALK was 6.1 so easy fix to bring to 7.5 No corals

But Nitrate was a firm 50 ppm.

Phosphate was 0.48 ppm

i can't join tanks since bringing the 110G online would be around 50% WC and would only bring down N to 25. And P to 0.24.
That would not be a good starting point for new setup.

With lots of lighting in new setup.....I would probably end up with a bad algae bloom on my hands. Plus bringing down levels to SPS quality would be a long stuggle with more fish.

So I put on my GFO reactor (fresh media) to bring down P.
And for N I added two NEW bags if Chemipure (regular).

If needed I will do water changes and wait till 65G has N around 5 and P close to 0.1. (Then join in 110 G tank and N drops to Below 2.5 and P to around 0.05)

This way joining two tanks will bring over biology and not bad chem.

Good plan?

Or waste of time??? Should I just start up new tank fresh, bring over lots of live rock, and let it do a small quick cycle with whatever is active in sump and rocks???? Just one yellow Tang to start.

Why not just move the rock and switch the sump to new tank. I don’t think you would need to cycle at all give all the bacteria in life rock. Then use the 65 gal as another qt system


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Wally.B]

Originally Posted by tenurepro

Why not just move the rock and switch the sump to new tank. I don’t think you would need to cycle at all give all the bacteria in life rock. Then use the 65 gal as another qt system

I would prefer that, but I thought tank would cycle hard.

It that works then I better get started assembling my Rock Scape.

I assume you mean "Move Rocks and Fish".

Thanks.