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Unread 04/11/2018, 03:45 PM   #1
BrotherNature
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RO/DI at 1PPM, is this cause for concern?

It's been awhile since I've checked the TDS of my water out of the 4 stage RO/DI unit from BRS, but today it registered at 1. (digital checker from BRS) Is this cause for concern? Do I need to replace everything? How far can I push it? Thanks.

BTW everything looks great.


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Unread 04/11/2018, 04:30 PM   #2
outssider
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you may not need to change everything, just the di..........

1ppm depends on what the 1 part is...if it's copper or tin, it's too much....


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Unread 04/11/2018, 05:11 PM   #3
BrotherNature
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So in other words 1PPM is too much? Will trace amounts of these metals kill everything right off the bat or will it be a slow decline? Everything looks cool, I'm just having a hard time thinking I need to spend the money on the DI just because it's NOT zero. I wonder how far I can push it. Hmm.


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Unread 04/11/2018, 05:25 PM   #4
BrotherNature
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Quote:
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So in other words 1PPM is too much? Will trace amounts of these metals kill everything right off the bat or will it be a slow decline? Everything looks cool, I'm just having a hard time thinking I need to spend the money on the DI just because it's NOT zero. I'm just wonder how far I can push it. When does it become straight tap water? (Algae growth/maybe death) Hmm.



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Unread 04/11/2018, 10:38 PM   #5
bertoni
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It all depends on what's in that 1 ppm of TDS. If it's mostly copper, which is very unlikely, then it'd be a big problem quickly.


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Unread 04/12/2018, 04:36 AM   #6
RobZilla04
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I typically change mine when TDS gets to about 5-7. True I do not know what is contained within those 5-7 dissolved solids, but to change every time I see 1 TDS seems a bit OCD.


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Unread 04/12/2018, 11:32 AM   #7
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I typically change mine when TDS gets to about 5-7. True I do not know what is contained within those 5-7 dissolved solids, but to change every time I see 1 TDS seems a bit OCD.
Same here. Usually once it hits 5, I place an order to BRS.


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Unread 04/12/2018, 08:50 PM   #8
bertoni
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How long did the DI cartridge last?


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Unread 04/14/2018, 10:12 PM   #9
josephxsxn
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The question like everyone is saying is what is in that TDS. I had 10-15 TDS RO water without DI that I used for a year with no issues, but again it will depend on the content.


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Unread 04/20/2018, 10:49 AM   #10
JoeShuck
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I typically replace everything whenever I see it go above 0. But that begs the question; which cartridge(s) do people most typically change when they see any increase? As I stated, I change everything - RO - sediment - carbon - DI. This might be overkill, but I figure doing it every 6 months is a decent cost per year.


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Unread 04/20/2018, 12:59 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZilla04 View Post
I typically change mine when TDS gets to about 5-7. True I do not know what is contained within those 5-7 dissolved solids, but to change every time I see 1 TDS seems a bit OCD.
What is the TDS out of the membrane? Mine is 2 out of RI and I accept nothing but 0 out of DI.

My DI resin lasts about 14 months.

I change carbon and sediment filter every 6 months.


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Unread 04/20/2018, 11:00 PM   #12
bertoni
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The RO membrane should last for quite a while, possibly years. I might check the TDS before and after it now and then.


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Unread 04/21/2018, 08:12 AM   #13
RobZilla04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hkgar View Post
What is the TDS out of the membrane? Mine is 2 out of RI and I accept nothing but 0 out of DI.

My DI resin lasts about 14 months.

I change carbon and sediment filter every 6 months.
When did you flush last?


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Unread 04/21/2018, 02:38 PM   #14
hkgar
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If you are asking about back flushing the membrane, I use a Aquatic Life Aquatic Life Smart Buddie Booster Pump and it has an automatic 18 second back flush on start up. I am on a well and water pressure is 45-50 so I use a booster to maximize water pressure through the membrane


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 04/25/2018, 09:07 AM   #15
smatter
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14 months out of a DI cartridge? I usually read about 2-4 after the membrane so not sure why I go through DI so fast. CO2 maybe? No pH meter so no way to check unless there's another way.


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Unread 04/25/2018, 09:28 AM   #16
tmz
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1ppm post di tds can be much worse than 1ppm post membrane and is IMO a cause for concern. Any tds reading indicates the di is no longer functioning and sustances afficed to it may leach in high concentrations as other ions displace it.


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Unread 04/25/2018, 09:39 AM   #17
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As soon as either of my two DI cartridges show 1 TDS, they get swapped. As noted above, it's not necessarily the TDS but what is in the TDS which you have no way of knowing. I always keep a spare DI cartridge on hand and check the TDS meters every time my RODI is running which is once a week. In my opinion, you absolutely should change them out at 1 TDS. By not changing it, you are risking issues both in the near and long term and it's just not worth it with the investment we have in our systems. Especially when we spend money on these filters to eliminate any and all dissolved solids.


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Unread 04/25/2018, 09:49 AM   #18
tmz
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I use two did cartridges and check the tds into the second in line.When it shows any tds coming in I swap out the first cartridge and rotate the two. This insures continuos 0 tds out of the second in line. It also avoids guess work about when to change the resin.


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Current Tank Info: Tank of the Month , November 2011 : 600gal integrated system: 3 display tanks (120 g, 90g, 89g),several frag/grow out tanks, macroalgae refugia, cryptic zones. 40+ fish, seahorses, sps,lps,leathers, zoanthidae and non photosynthetic corals.
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Unread 04/28/2018, 03:03 PM   #19
hkgar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smatter View Post
14 months out of a DI cartridge? I usually read about 2-4 after the membrane so not sure why I go through DI so fast. CO2 maybe? No pH meter so no way to check unless there's another way.
You can test for CO2 with this

Are you on well water?


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 04/28/2018, 04:29 PM   #20
lapin
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Quote:
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You can test for CO2 with this

Are you on well water?
I live in Texas and the well water here will burn thru DI resin faster than a chili pepper. If I had to use well water I would be buying resin in 500 lbs bags. If you are on a well, is there a way you can get some sort of rain water collection system for just your tank?


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Unread 04/29/2018, 10:05 AM   #21
PatW
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My tds after the RO membrane is 1 or 2. Incoming water is about 130. Water after the DI is 0 tds. I use BRS changing color resin. I have 2 DI canisters hooked in series. When the first is depleted, I repack it with fresh resin. I move the other canister to the first position and put the newly packed canister in the second position. I think I get around 200 gallons per canister. I have made thousands of gallons with the RO membrane and it seems to work like new. I do change out my filter and carbon blocks regularly. I also back flush the RO membrane every time I use it.


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Unread 04/30/2018, 02:29 PM   #22
hkgar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lapin View Post
I live in Texas and the well water here will burn thru DI resin faster than a chili pepper. If I had to use well water I would be buying resin in 500 lbs bags. If you are on a well, is there a way you can get some sort of rain water collection system for just your tank?
You have to drive the CO2 out of the water. I am on a well and was using 1 canister full for about 150 gallons (1 month or less). I have now set up a de-gassing system and a canister of resin last 14+ months.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2330368

In my system water from RO goes into a 52 gallon Brute container and an air stone bubbles the water for 24-48 hours and then I pump the water back through the DI

Big difference.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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Unread 04/30/2018, 03:27 PM   #23
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Not sure if this thread took a turn, but didn't the OP say that evrything looks OK?


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Unread 05/01/2018, 04:50 AM   #24
hkgar
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I apologize for the tangential discussion. We gor a bit off topic.


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180 gallon, 40 gallon sump, 3 250 W MH + 4 80W ATI T5's, MTC MVX 36 Skimmer, Apex controller Aquamaxx T-3 CaRx

Current Tank Info: A 2 Barred Rabbitfish, Red Head Salon, Yellow/Purple, McMaster Fairy, Possum, 2 Leopard Wrasses, Kole, & Atlantic Blue Tangs, 2 Percula Clown, 3 PJ and 1 Banggai Cardinalfish , Swallowtail, Bellus and Coral Beauty Angels
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