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Unread 12/03/2017, 06:20 AM   #26
Airwalk1616
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Again, this should help you see what's going on a bit better I hope.


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Unread 12/03/2017, 06:32 AM   #27
Airwalk1616
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Yeh.... just tying to clarify lol.


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Unread 12/03/2017, 09:31 AM   #28
Airwalk1616
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@SMdude you’re a god damned genius.......... switching the terminals proved its a relay problem. But now I gotta get a new one, cause it only chills when it’s BELOW the set temp lol. But the outlet n back receives power constantly.


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Unread 12/03/2017, 10:09 AM   #29
Airwalk1616
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@gorgok my bad dude, I’ve had this question on a LOt of different forums and got your name mixed up. My honest mistake. But your simple switch of terminals clarified the problem and now I know it’s a relay.

But based off my very first post, can you determine what relay is the chiller? I think it’s the one with the markings on it(labeled as poles 1&2) and want to be sure.


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Unread 12/03/2017, 10:53 AM   #30
Airwalk1616
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Where the hell do I get this replacement relay? :/
HRS4H-S-DC12V 10a 250V 50hz COS.01 10A 120v 10a 24V


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Unread 12/03/2017, 04:36 PM   #31
Gorgok
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Pretty sure its the one closer to the yellow transformer that is the cooler circuit relay. The circuits don't cross, so the heat relay is on the heat wire side, cooler wire on cooler relay side. But i think the blade terminals are labeled for the temperature, not the function (so hot is more like 'too hot, run cooler'). Could be wrong on the labels/wires, but whichever wire color goes to the compressor is the circuit you are after (originally, not after switching them!).

The good thing is it doesn't have to be that relay, just one that is the same footprint (common) and same or better ratings.
https://www.digikey.com/product-deta...1012-ND/280369

This should be equivalent.



Last edited by Gorgok; 12/03/2017 at 04:41 PM.
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Unread 12/03/2017, 04:53 PM   #32
Gorgok
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Removing a soldered in relay will be no fun without a good solder sucker. But if don't have one you can always do it the destructive way (the relay is already broken, so what the heck). Cut the relay to bits from the top so each pin is free of the rest, then removing each individually is no big deal.


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Unread 12/03/2017, 06:31 PM   #33
Airwalk1616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorgok View Post
Removing a soldered in relay will be no fun without a good solder sucker. But if don't have one you can always do it the destructive way (the relay is already broken, so what the heck). Cut the relay to bits from the top so each pin is free of the rest, then removing each individually is no big deal.
Well I bought these, https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-HRS4H-...UAAOSwTM5Y8j9k

Should Work?

And some solder wick so I should be able to do it. Lol. I’ll take a pic of the board straight on when the day comes that they arrive from China, so we can follow thentrac3s to be sure of the right relay. So keep an eye on this thread!!!


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Unread 12/03/2017, 07:08 PM   #34
Gorgok
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Should be fine. Solder wick may be able to do it, it helps that the relay is heavy and gravity will be in your favor getting it out. Getting access to the bottom may also be a little less fun than i remembered with the boards sandwiched like that.

I would probably undo the sandwich first... it should be pretty simple to re-align close enough.


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Unread 12/03/2017, 07:28 PM   #35
Airwalk1616
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Yah there are 4 joints on each side to remove to take them apart from each other. The wick will definitely help there. But the relay itself I hope I can get under and snip those contacts, if not, it’s gonna suck.


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Unread 12/04/2017, 04:03 PM   #36
Airwalk1616
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I’ve ordered the relays and some solder wick. So I will update you all when they arrive. Who knows how long that will be though since they’re from eBay and coming from China.


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Unread 12/05/2017, 08:54 AM   #37
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Heh. You're a braver man than I.

My chiller had the same problem. I bought a $20 temperature controller and just had it turn the chiller on/off as needed. Bonus is that it can controller my heaters too, so I don't have to rely on the crappy built-in thermostat on those.

Good luck with the soldering.


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Unread 12/05/2017, 10:51 AM   #38
Airwalk1616
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Heh. You're a braver man than I.

My chiller had the same problem. I bought a $20 temperature controller and just had it turn the chiller on/off as needed. Bonus is that it can controller my heaters too, so I don't have to rely on the crappy built-in thermostat on those.

Good luck with the soldering.
Dude no way!! What brand/size? & ya I knew it was something small on the cob 5hat just needed to be replaced and so I searched for help in MULTIPLE forums until I got it. Everyone told me to just buy a temp controller like you but I said **** that. The solder wick and relays cost me $6. I think I’ll be able to do it.. I’ve soldered plenty in my life. Just nothing with PCBs.


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Unread 12/05/2017, 10:56 AM   #39
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1/4hp. Don't remember the brand.

Just remember, if you screw up the control board, you now have a brick instead of a useable chiller.

You're saving money on the fix, unless you screw it up worse, and then you either have to figure out what went wrong, or you end up replacing the chiller.

At my point in life, I don't gamble anymore.


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Unread 12/05/2017, 10:58 AM   #40
Airwalk1616
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P.s. a thermistor is a thermistor.... not really much to them.


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Unread 12/05/2017, 01:07 PM   #41
Airwalk1616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDave View Post
1/4hp. Don't remember the brand.

Just remember, if you screw up the control board, you now have a brick instead of a useable chiller.

You're saving money on the fix, unless you screw it up worse, and then you either have to figure out what went wrong, or you end up replacing the chiller.

At my point in life, I don't gamble anymore.
It’s a simple fix... with some solder wick it’ll be no problem.


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Unread 12/22/2017, 01:25 PM   #42
Airwalk1616
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Officially fixed guys! Thanks for the help! !!


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Unread 12/22/2017, 03:53 PM   #43
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Yay.


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Unread 12/22/2017, 08:57 PM   #44
Airwalk1616
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Yay.
Right? Sunlight supply suggested i buy a new unit. $380 down to a $$2.50 relay.


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Unread 12/22/2017, 10:45 PM   #45
Gorgok
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Wow. That solution would have been last after an external controller as others suggested if it turned out to be impossible to fix in my mind. Would have to have been pretty serious to be that far gone though.

But i guess the only ones who would benefit (make profit) from them agreeing to fix an issue as 'simple' as that would be the post office from shipping it back and forth.


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Unread 01/02/2018, 08:54 AM   #46
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Nicely done. You can see the burn mark on the board from when the first relay went out.


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Unread 01/07/2018, 04:01 AM   #47
Airwalk1616
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Nicely done. You can see the burn mark on the board from when the first relay went out.
I don’t know where you’re seeing that but it’s not true. The relay arced inside the casing of the relay and didn’t effect the PCB at all.


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