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Unread 10/02/2012, 08:24 AM   #7201
bullitr
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I will try my best to go to macna 2013 so I can shake your hand sir !


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Lawrence
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435 gallon display in wall see through

no more hyposalinity...

Current Tank Info: 96x36x29 inwall
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Unread 10/02/2012, 11:40 AM   #7202
Briney Dave
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Ching, have you settled on a topic to focus on yet for MACNA?

I am trying to convince my wife that we need to go. We will both be in school at that point but if we flew would only need to take a Thursday, Friday, and Monday to rest up

for me, it really is professional development plus a load of fun.

Be sure to sneak away at some point to get one of those famous Cuban sandwiches and super concentrated coffees

I am really not a night life guy so if I go it will be off to eateries not clubs LOL


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Unread 10/02/2012, 02:22 PM   #7203
Reef_Noob
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Hi Chingchai,
Wishing you all the best at MACNA



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If ya gonna do it...then do it right !!

BUILDING A DREAM....SPS Dominated 105cm x 51cm x 54cm (Low Iron Belgian Glass)....Please visit my homepage for build thread.

LED Lighting (CREE Main Unit 60w x2, T5 and T8 LED tubes), LED RGB-P Light bar, DIY Sump, Bubble King 180 Gen.2 Skimmer, TECO TR15 Chiller, Sicce Multi Return pump, X-Wave Rotary Device, Vortech MP40 ES, Hydor Korallia Wavemakers(2800 x2, 4000 x2), RR Wavemaker, 2x Nano Wavemakers, SIAM Ocean Media Reactor, Kent Phosphate Reactor, 6 Stage RO/DI unit, Ginko Sea Auto-top System.

Current Tank Info: DREAM 1.0 is up and running..,DREAM 2.0 build is underway (Read on from Page 25)
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Unread 10/02/2012, 06:41 PM   #7204
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Ive reserved a hotel for that weekend and now I'm going for sure!
Cheers
Rob


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Unread 10/03/2012, 12:08 AM   #7205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katis View Post
You have the most amazing tank i hace ever seen. Keep up the wonderful hobby.
Katis. Thank you.


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Unread 10/03/2012, 12:12 AM   #7206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro76 View Post
Sorry i forget to ask if you put any aditive (food,trace elementes) in your system?
Pedro. Thanks.
I add reef food from reefnutrition, oyster egg, Cyclop-eeze etc.
But no trace elements.


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Unread 10/03/2012, 12:13 AM   #7207
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Sandy, Lawrence and Rob.
I look forward to seeing you guys as well.


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Unread 10/03/2012, 12:15 AM   #7208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.wilson View Post
I was so happy to see your name on the list of speakers for MACNA 2013. Now Peter has no more excuses for not going I'm looking forward to finally meeting you in person. Everyone talks about seeing your tank, but it's really about the people, not the places.
It will be a great chance for me to meet two famous reefers from Canada.


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Unread 10/03/2012, 12:17 AM   #7209
chingchai
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Briney Dave View Post
Ching, have you settled on a topic to focus on yet for MACNA?

I am trying to convince my wife that we need to go. We will both be in school at that point but if we flew would only need to take a Thursday, Friday, and Monday to rest up

for me, it really is professional development plus a load of fun.

Be sure to sneak away at some point to get one of those famous Cuban sandwiches and super concentrated coffees

I am really not a night life guy so if I go it will be off to eateries not clubs LOL
For the topic, Tony wants me to speak about details of building my tank.
Hope to see you there.


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Unread 10/03/2012, 12:18 AM   #7210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef_Noob View Post
Hi Chingchai,
Wishing you all the best at MACNA
Anup. Thank you.


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Unread 10/03/2012, 12:19 AM   #7211
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Guys. Anybody knows about this product?
Is it suitable for my tank?
http://www.qualitymarine.com/UV-Ster...ntage-UV-110-W


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Unread 10/03/2012, 10:47 AM   #7212
Briney Dave
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If I remember correctly you are injecting ozone: I believe that the ozone does at least as much toward water clarity and keeping pathogens at a low level as compared with UV light


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Unread 10/03/2012, 01:39 PM   #7213
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Hi Chingchai,

Those are pond versions.

Look here.

http://www.qualitymarine.com/UV-Ster...-(up-to-1056-g)


I have the P8 - 8x55W UV for my 1000Gal system.

You can go up to P16 if you need to... They are quite big units.

Mo


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Unread 10/12/2012, 09:17 PM   #7214
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Ching,

I remember seeing a DC pump that you are using but I can not remember the name of the pump. I know Peter is also using a DC pump but his run around $2000 each. What and where would I be able to find this pump?

Thanks
Joe


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Unread 10/12/2012, 09:36 PM   #7215
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I believe its a red devil


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Unread 10/12/2012, 09:39 PM   #7216
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It sure is, I did a query and recognize the pumps

Thanks


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Unread 10/18/2012, 06:16 AM   #7217
lovelia_renatha
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hi mr.chingchai greet to recognize
I like with yours aquarium very beautiful.


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Unread 10/18/2012, 07:08 AM   #7218
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Chingchai had one of the early (ill-fated) Red Devil pumps. They were not non-corrosive and were recalled. The Blue Eco has replaced it. It's the same designer, but a new factory making it now. The Abyzz and Blue Eco are both high voltage DC (400v). I prefer the Waveline DC pumps as they are low voltage (24v).

The Aqua UV Viper series is best suited for a large tank (3600 gallons) http://www.aquauvstore.com/Viper-400...es-sc-156.html

Nineball is using an 80w unit by Aqua UV that is only rated for 600 gallons, nano tank http://www.aquauvstore.com/Classic-W...ite-sc-93.html

I'm surprised nobody has developed an LED UV sterilizer yet. The chips and components are all available. It would be compact, cool running and last 50,000 hrs instead of 9,000 hrs.


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Unread 10/18/2012, 07:52 AM   #7219
Briney Dave
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Sean, if you are already using ozone, is there any tangible benifit to also using any form of UV sterilization


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Unread 10/18/2012, 07:56 AM   #7220
Made2Rock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.wilson View Post
Chingchai had one of the early (ill-fated) Red Devil pumps. They were not non-corrosive and were recalled. The Blue Eco has replaced it. It's the same designer, but a new factory making it now. The Abyzz and Blue Eco are both high voltage DC (400v). I prefer the Waveline DC pumps as they are low voltage (24v).

The Aqua UV Viper series is best suited for a large tank (3600 gallons) http://www.aquauvstore.com/Viper-400...es-sc-156.html

Nineball is using an 80w unit by Aqua UV that is only rated for 600 gallons, nano tank http://www.aquauvstore.com/Classic-W...ite-sc-93.html

I'm surprised nobody has developed an LED UV sterilizer yet. The chips and components are all available. It would be compact, cool running and last 50,000 hrs instead of 9,000 hrs.
Mr. Wilson,

In Peter's tread you talked about the need for a good magnetically coupled pump on a closed loop. Would you recommend using one of these waveline pumps in a closed loop?

Ching, sorry for this detour but you might find it interesting. UVs can have a lot of water passing thru them to kill algae but you would want to slow it down for an ich breakout. So you could use one of these pumps at a normal speed and if something gets out of control in your tank slow it down to kill something like ich. (yes I do believe in an ounce of prevention but I have also seen some of the best laid plans fall apart).

Joe



Last edited by Made2Rock; 10/18/2012 at 08:01 AM.
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Unread 10/18/2012, 09:01 AM   #7221
mr.wilson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Made2Rock View Post
Mr. Wilson,

In Peter's tread you talked about the need for a good magnetically coupled pump on a closed loop. Would you recommend using one of these waveline pumps in a closed loop?

Ching, sorry for this detour but you might find it interesting. UVs can have a lot of water passing thru them to kill algae but you would want to slow it down for an ich breakout. So you could use one of these pumps at a normal speed and if something gets out of control in your tank slow it down to kill something like ich. (yes I do believe in an ounce of prevention but I have also seen some of the best laid plans fall apart).

Joe
The aquarium pump industry has been very slow to update technology. Little Giant and Iwaki pumps are pretty much the same as they were 25 years ago. Somewhere along the way, we took a step backwards and started using direct drive (shaft coupled) pumps. While some models use the finest silicon carbide bearings, they still only last three years. When they fail it could mean a noisy pump, diminished efficiency, or a flood

Modern DC pumps use six pole motors, which is a fancy way of saying there are more drive magnets. Many AC pumps use only two poles and can spin backwards and click on startup. Some powerheads need a poke with a screwdriver to start up.

Brushless DC pumps eliminate the wear parts you get with AC pumps that need to be changed about every ten years. AC pumps that are not submersible use noisy fans that wear, attract dust, and collect salt creep. If you spill saltwater on an internal DC pump, you don't have to worry about electrical shock, corrosion, or failure as you would with an external AC pump.

DC pumps feature a soft on/off, so bearings last longer and on/off sequences are quiet. This comes in handy with wave devices and speed control sequences. There is also no jolt to your GFCI when the pump(s) come on.

The operating temperature of DC pumps is also quieter and the pump runs a lot cooler. I tested the power factor of a DC pump vs. an Askoll of the same size and the DC was 0.6 and the Askoll was 1.2, so efficiency of DC is higher. Cool running pumps means that calcium will not fall out of solution and bond to metallic pump parts. Some DC pumps, like the Waveline use ceramic bearings and shafts.

One of the benefits of DC power is it is easy to control speed with a 0-10v controller. This gives you the wave sequences you see with DC Vortech & Tunze prop pumps. Battery backup is also easier to configure, and in the future solar and wind power can be incorporated easily.

There are some benefits to DC pumps regarding technical details, namely sign waves, that I myself don't fully understand, but it appears that DC power is more "stable" to over simplify the matter.

DC pumps are smaller as well. I have replaced some spa pumps that were easily 4 times bigger, 4 times heavier, and used 13 times more energy to get the job done (980w vs. 75w). I did a test with an AC pump to see if the power consumption would drop if I closed the valve part way. Pump manufacturers have always boasted that their pumps will draw less power when valved down. Well they turned out to be correct. The AC pump I tested used 980w fully open; when I shut the valve half way (45˚), the pump output was cut in half, but the power consumption only dropped to 930w A negligible savings.

There is an interesting power/flow curve with DC pumps. When the DC pump is powered down with 0-10v speed control, it uses only 1/3 of the full power while set at 50%. In other words, they tend to run more efficiently when run at lower RPMs. In practical terms, Nineball has 5 x 400w DC pumps for his closed loop and return pump. Each pump runs at 400w while at full power. We use a speed controller to govern each pump speed independently as it goes through wave sequences. The full max power consumption potential is 2000w, but we run at an average of 800w during the day and they all slow down at night. Each pump is set to run between 60-90% of the max power with 10-60 second variable intervals.

Running wave sequences and pulses with any pumps is a great way to save energy and get better flow results. Until the AC pump manufacturers catch up, DC pumps are the way to go.

Closed loop vs. internal prop pump is a whole other debate that I will keep out of Chingchai's thread


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Unread 10/18/2012, 09:17 AM   #7222
Made2Rock
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Thanks Mr. Wilson. I have looked at them and debating them but wasn't sure.

Ching,

Here is some food for thought on the topic of UV. People talk about the impact on ths pod population and the use of sponges. If you push the water thru the UV faster it will not be strong enough to kill something like pods but if should something find its way into your tank you can easily adjust the speed of DC pump to slow down the flow in the UV and up the UV dosage to kill unwanted parasites.

Joe


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Unread 10/18/2012, 09:45 AM   #7223
mr.wilson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Briney Dave View Post
Sean, if you are already using ozone, is there any tangible benifit to also using any form of UV sterilization
There are four forms of filtration available to us: Mechanical, biological, chemical & disinfection. UV irradiation and ozonation are both forms of disinfection, but can be used tother just as one would use a protein skimmer and filter sock/bag for mechanical filtration.

Ozone is often used sporadically on a timer and or ORP controller. UV on the other hand can run 24/7. Ozone can alter salts and convert bromide into bromine. This acts as a strong oxidant that can harm the display tank residents. UV sterilizers have no residual affect on the the display tank. You only kill the organisms that travel through the UV sterilizer.

UV is considered to be the "safe" method of disinfection, while Ozone is considered to be the "effective" method. In my opinion, the two compliment each other.

Plankton does not pass through a UV sterilizer to ay great extent, and if it should go down that road, it will make it through unscathed. Copepods, amphipods, mysids and isopods for that matter, stay in the substrate and even when they venture out at night for a swim, they are able to stay clear of pump intakes. There is a common myth that your refugium will feed your tank, but it can oly do so if you shake the algae culture out in the display tank manually.

Medicating the food with metronidazole and or chloroquine is the only effective method of treating ich in a reef tank without harming the inverts. There may be some measured success in feeding the fish garlic, ginger & onion, but it sounds more like the start of a delicious tom yum recipe


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Unread 10/18/2012, 01:56 PM   #7224
Reef_Noob
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Thanks a lot Mr. Wilson for that great explanation and info regarding the pump.
Would definately help many to make the right pump choice.
Definately on my list of future pump upgrade.


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If ya gonna do it...then do it right !!

BUILDING A DREAM....SPS Dominated 105cm x 51cm x 54cm (Low Iron Belgian Glass)....Please visit my homepage for build thread.

LED Lighting (CREE Main Unit 60w x2, T5 and T8 LED tubes), LED RGB-P Light bar, DIY Sump, Bubble King 180 Gen.2 Skimmer, TECO TR15 Chiller, Sicce Multi Return pump, X-Wave Rotary Device, Vortech MP40 ES, Hydor Korallia Wavemakers(2800 x2, 4000 x2), RR Wavemaker, 2x Nano Wavemakers, SIAM Ocean Media Reactor, Kent Phosphate Reactor, 6 Stage RO/DI unit, Ginko Sea Auto-top System.

Current Tank Info: DREAM 1.0 is up and running..,DREAM 2.0 build is underway (Read on from Page 25)
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Unread 10/18/2012, 02:44 PM   #7225
ksed
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I believe Mr. Wilson got confused with with power factor and amps The power factor of the Askoll is .31 in which the lower the PF the less it is using electricity efficiently. The Askoll uses 1.2 amps.




Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.wilson View Post
The aquarium pump industry has been very slow to update technology. Little Giant and Iwaki pumps are pretty much the same as they were 25 years ago. Somewhere along the way, we took a step backwards and started using direct drive (shaft coupled) pumps. While some models use the finest silicon carbide bearings, they still only last three years. When they fail it could mean a noisy pump, diminished efficiency, or a flood

Modern DC pumps use six pole motors, which is a fancy way of saying there are more drive magnets. Many AC pumps use only two poles and can spin backwards and click on startup. Some powerheads need a poke with a screwdriver to start up.

Brushless DC pumps eliminate the wear parts you get with AC pumps that need to be changed about every ten years. AC pumps that are not submersible use noisy fans that wear, attract dust, and collect salt creep. If you spill saltwater on an internal DC pump, you don't have to worry about electrical shock, corrosion, or failure as you would with an external AC pump.

DC pumps feature a soft on/off, so bearings last longer and on/off sequences are quiet. This comes in handy with wave devices and speed control sequences. There is also no jolt to your GFCI when the pump(s) come on.

The operating temperature of DC pumps is also quieter and the pump runs a lot cooler. I tested the power factor of a DC pump vs. an Askoll of the same size and the DC was 0.6 and the Askoll was 1.2, so efficiency of DC is higher. Cool running pumps means that calcium will not fall out of solution and bond to metallic pump parts. Some DC pumps, like the Waveline use ceramic bearings and shafts.

One of the benefits of DC power is it is easy to control speed with a 0-10v controller. This gives you the wave sequences you see with DC Vortech & Tunze prop pumps. Battery backup is also easier to configure, and in the future solar and wind power can be incorporated easily.

There are some benefits to DC pumps regarding technical details, namely sign waves, that I myself don't fully understand, but it appears that DC power is more "stable" to over simplify the matter.

DC pumps are smaller as well. I have replaced some spa pumps that were easily 4 times bigger, 4 times heavier, and used 13 times more energy to get the job done (980w vs. 75w). I did a test with an AC pump to see if the power consumption would drop if I closed the valve part way. Pump manufacturers have always boasted that their pumps will draw less power when valved down. Well they turned out to be correct. The AC pump I tested used 980w fully open; when I shut the valve half way (45˚), the pump output was cut in half, but the power consumption only dropped to 930w A negligible savings.

There is an interesting power/flow curve with DC pumps. When the DC pump is powered down with 0-10v speed control, it uses only 1/3 of the full power while set at 50%. In other words, they tend to run more efficiently when run at lower RPMs. In practical terms, Nineball has 5 x 400w DC pumps for his closed loop and return pump. Each pump runs at 400w while at full power. We use a speed controller to govern each pump speed independently as it goes through wave sequences. The full max power consumption potential is 2000w, but we run at an average of 800w during the day and they all slow down at night. Each pump is set to run between 60-90% of the max power with 10-60 second variable intervals.

Running wave sequences and pulses with any pumps is a great way to save energy and get better flow results. Until the AC pump manufacturers catch up, DC pumps are the way to go.

Closed loop vs. internal prop pump is a whole other debate that I will keep out of Chingchai's thread



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