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03/29/2015, 09:30 AM | #926 | |
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I got about half way into that bottle thinking it wasn't working this time. Then I realized I hadn't took my carbon off and sure as **** the next day they were receding again after a few more days of dosing they are looking to be on their last legs. I did a large water change yesterday will report back later today on if they regrew like they normally do after water changes. The dose I was using was 1 shot glass during the day and 1 shot glass during the night. That was the first dosing phase I did. 2nd time around I've only been doing 1 shot glass a day. This is in a 55g with 10g sump....I know that isn't scientific dosing but if you read the instruction on the ich attack it pretty much says if suggested does isn't working add more and more lol. So I seemed to find success at those levels. I'm not sure what kind I have but I do know all these things dont work, hydrogen peroxide, gfo, lights out, fauna marin ultra algae x (tho i think I might have had 2 kinds of dinos cause the fauna did kill about 20% of it when it was at its worst) due to mine being so resistant to what works for some people I would guess that I had osteporis but I really have no idea |
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03/29/2015, 09:32 AM | #927 | |
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I agree with the sinking, when I would siphon out dinos and pour the water back in I could get the good majority of the dinos to just sink to the bottom of the bucket and then pour the water from the top back in the tank |
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03/31/2015, 10:55 PM | #928 |
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Watch the colour of the snotty stuff: it is normally brown when loaded with dinos and whitish if they are empty because dinos stopped thriving.
It is not safe to blow them if they are brown: you will spread them and multiply like crazy. They sometimes accumulate energy from the day light and start building the mucilage in the first minutes on the dawn. They spread using the water flow and can stick to any surface surprisingly strong. I have found that it is better to slow down the pumps specially when lights are on. |
04/01/2015, 07:21 AM | #929 |
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Aren't dinos really susceptible to the light? Once you turn the turn the lights out they virtually disappear...only to return again the next time you turn them on. You can almost watch them grow in intensity throughout the day they grow that fast. If there's no change when the white lights go out then it probably wouldn't be dinos.
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04/01/2015, 08:18 AM | #930 |
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Dinos are benthonic in daytime and pelagic in nighttime. They multiply all day long but are specially visible in the light
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04/10/2015, 04:32 PM | #931 |
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Dinos starting to bloom again, did my first dose of ich attack, fingers crossed.
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04/11/2015, 07:22 AM | #932 |
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I found that large and frequent (every two days) water changes has helped me amazingly.
I used algae x with good results however it came back really bad. Cleaned up the tank and started algae x again which didn't do too much 2nd time around. That's when I tried water changes. I heard this somewhere and I believe in it for many aquarium issues: "the solution to pollution is dilution." |
04/11/2015, 09:08 AM | #933 |
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Most people find water changes actually increase their dinos
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04/11/2015, 09:40 AM | #934 |
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04/11/2015, 11:11 AM | #935 |
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Yeah water changes was my original plan but I shyed away from it originally from everyone saying it fuels it.
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04/11/2015, 06:49 PM | #936 |
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It's day 2 dosing ich attack and it appears that the dinos are cysting, the first photo is new cysts, the second is what appears to be dinos turning into cysts, you can see what looks like a cyst forming inside the dino, the third is some pics of cysts I found on the web.
I don't think this battle can be won. http:// |
04/11/2015, 07:14 PM | #937 |
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I saw some dinos in my tank starting to grab hold. I ended up opening a window after water change and they started to go away.
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04/11/2015, 09:26 PM | #938 |
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04/11/2015, 11:07 PM | #939 |
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Forgot to report on my waterchanges I have since done 2 decent size changes and my dinos have not come back, how strong of dose are you using Cal stir. What do you mean by the cysting is it different from what they normally do?
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04/12/2015, 02:16 AM | #940 |
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That's very interesting photos Cal Stir and they definitely shows us that a temporary attack is not likely to produce a permanent fix.
I've said it a few times that finding what causing blooms would be the holy grail. Scientist in the field have documented ocean blooms in late summer and the cause to be current bringing nutrients up from the deep. I'm not sure they have proved it or if it goes with reef tanks. My tank and a constant dino bloom for years points to something else taking place. Even though this ick attack experiment seems to be a failure, at the same time it's an important step forward. --- I used to get a big and obvious increase in dinos with water changes. Now I do 25% monthly without any visible changes. --- Rog2961 is saying he lowered CO2 in the house. Last edited by DNA; 04/12/2015 at 02:28 AM. |
04/12/2015, 04:06 AM | #941 |
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I'd like to share something with you guys that I think is important.
First I'd like to introduce the Coccolithophores. (Emiliania Huxley) They are about 5 micron and 5 times smaller than e.g. an Ostreopsis dinflagellate. I noticed a bloom out of the coast here in Iceland at the same time I was jet again looking for a reason for my constant low calcium level. It was like many puzzles found their place at the same time and the big picture became clearer. The ocean is rarely transparent and it's color will tell a tale of what is going on. Same goes for our tanks. A slightly yellow or brown could be low amount of dinos or diatoms, various intensities of green could be algae, white or cyan/turquoises calcareous algae and red a dense dino bloom. Of course we have these white coccolith blooms in our tanks as well. We just don't realize it and in all my years reefing I have never heard anyone mentioning them. Because of our small tanks and relative dim lights we don't see or recognize them for what they are. A friend and myself simply can't get calcium levels to the SPS standard and they hover under 400 or lower if something happens to Ca production. I have noticed that I have more debris in suspension than most tanks and decided to have a better look. I got my camera and looked at the debris on the rocks. Most of it was calcareous and some had organic shapes like sticks and broken shells. The magnification didn't allow for coccolithophores or coccoliths since they are even to small for a proper look in a light microscope. After my last water change the water column had a haze to it for a few days and I think that is possibly Coccolithophores and other calcareous algae. They have a very short live span and use up a lot of calcium. Their armor falls of and slowly falls to the ocean floor, meanwhile they reflect light so well their blooms can be seen from space. I can imagine they produce an organic mass that is like a dead fish in the tank at all times. Is this what fuels dinoflagellates? I was looking at photos of red tide blooms in the ocean and noticed they often come with white ones. The official time is white ones peak in the spring and red ones in late summer. I think it's very likely these ocean blooms are linked, but proving how is not easy. It's documented that a virus kills off the white blooms. - We have found out that dinos usually like water changes. - That could be because of increase in coccolithopores. There are at least two local Ostreopsis tanks that can't reach proper calcium levels. When I siphon from the sand the amounts of dust baffles me. - That could be the excess calcium I'm adding and not seeing on the corals that have stunted growth. We have yet to find out what causes dino blooms and keeps them going in reef tanks. Here is a new dimension worth having in mind. Emiliania Huxley Notice the various colors in the ocean and the country sized blooms. I noticed red and white tides often go together. Guess what this white stuff is? From 2 microns to many miles (km) in thickness. |
04/12/2015, 05:26 AM | #942 |
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I think I need to get out of reefing but I don't know how, I definitely do not want to spread this horrible affliction around so selling the rock and animals seems out of the question, anybody have any ideas?
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04/12/2015, 06:12 AM | #943 | |
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Well equipment and rock you can bleach and kill the livestock and sell that off as dead rock. As far as livestock I wouldn't know what to do either. |
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04/12/2015, 06:39 AM | #944 |
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04/12/2015, 06:56 AM | #945 |
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Here is Newbie Aquarists shot from yesterday.
Dinos, Cyano and Calcareous algae all going at the same time. A 600 gallon tank makes the haze more visible. His shots from last year are this way as well. His thread is here. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...66256&page=174 I'm a subscriber now. |
04/12/2015, 08:37 AM | #946 |
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04/12/2015, 08:47 AM | #947 | |
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04/14/2015, 01:29 PM | #948 |
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Great info, DNA
I still have some ostreopsis visible only the microscope. I am fostering further biodiversity and getting a lot of micro critters by dosing big amounts of phytoplankton and aminoacids (copepods, snails, amphipods, tube-worms...). I dose 100 ml phytoplankton per day (nanochloropsis, Isochrysis and tetraselmis) with a peristaltic pumps in a very linear way (a squirt every hour). The first days I got a little spike of dino-snot but now it seems to have come to a balanced situation and ostreopsis is clearly vanishing even in full sun light and doing WC. Never got better results and so easily. I bet it is a matter of time to fully get rid of this pest. |
04/14/2015, 02:19 PM | #949 |
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Will any brand or type of phytoplankton work and what type brand of amino's are you using?
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04/14/2015, 02:31 PM | #950 |
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I use a concentrated phytoplankton gel: EasyBooster. Great stuff.
Aminos used are Aquavitro Fuel It is a 600 gal system |
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