Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > More Forums > Reef Club Forums > SouthWest Region-Reef Club Forums > Arizona - Fish & Reef Aquarium Group (FRAG)
Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 08/06/2018, 10:45 PM   #26
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sisterlimonpot View Post
This DIY is right up my alley! I have a bunch of meanwell drivers and CREE LED's sitting in a box somewhere in my garage. Never got around to doing anything with them. At the moment, I don't have any plans for them. But it's good to hold onto them until a need arises.
Jimmy, if you need some heatsinks let me know I have extras.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/06/2018, 10:49 PM   #27
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
As fate would have it, I ran short on wires for my cables this past weekend. So I’m waiting for amazon to ship me some more. In the meantime I am working on getting the ends on the cables I do have plus I have 2 more heatsinks that need LED’s added to them. So no rest for the weary. Once the additional wires arrive I will finish up the cables.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/11/2018, 10:14 AM   #28
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Let There Be LED Light!

So finally yesterday I turned on one of the LED lights.

At this point I have the following components all finished:
The UV, Blue and Cool White Power Module/Boxes (4)
The Warm White, Red and Green Power Module/Boxes (4)
Heatsinks with LED's attached (2)
Cable assemblies (4)

I still need to finish adding the LED's to 2 of the heatsinks and connect them and the one completed heatsink/LED's to the power module/boxes.

During my testing I found on one of the cable assemblies the Cool White connections weren't working just right. I was getting some weird readings when I was testing the cable with the power module/boxes, so I cut off the connectors and added new ones and that seems to have fixed it.

When I turned on the one LED light assembly and was testing the dimming circuitry, which is also working, I noticed that the red led circuit required about 30% power to turn on. This indicates to me that I am below the minimum voltage needed to get to the constant current level of the supply. This is the first time I am working with the photo red led's so my estimate of 3.3Vdc is most likely too high for these led's. So I have one of two ways to fix this. Change out the power supply for one with a lower voltage or add more red led's. It will be easier for me to add one or two more red led's vs changing the supply.

Now one other issue if you want to call it that with the LPF power supplies is that when you get really low when dimming, the LED's will blink. This is because you are well below the minimum threshold for the constant current range of the power supplies. So depending on the dimming control unit you are using you can either have the dimmer stop at a point right before the blinking starts and the LED's will always stay on just a little or you can put a timer on the power supplies that turns off the power to them at night. I will most likely just add a timer.

With the pictures it is hard to see how the LED's are going to perform when they are just sitting on a table, especially when it is during the day. The one picture shows what the color looks like on my ceiling. The ceiling is 10' high and the LED's are on my kitchen table, so the distance between the two is about 7' away. I like the color, plus it is also during the day and I am getting outside light coming in.

What a mess of wires coming from the power module/boxes to the LED's. The cable sheathing I picked up does a great job of tiding up that mess.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7751.jpg (48.2 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7751-52.jpg (15.1 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7754.jpg (84.0 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7755.jpg (69.6 KB, 16 views)
kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/11/2018, 10:32 AM   #29
drtrash
Registered Member
 
drtrash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S. Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 2,178
Any progress with plumber?


drtrash is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/11/2018, 10:40 AM   #30
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by drtrash View Post
Any progress with plumber?
Nope. Any luck on your end?

I did get a message from him which indicated that if he doesn't get the tanks installed in August, it could be while. He is going on vacation in September. Not good news.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/11/2018, 11:51 AM   #31
drtrash
Registered Member
 
drtrash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S. Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 2,178
About the same, talked last week and no commitment, will be going to plan B shortly


drtrash is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/11/2018, 12:05 PM   #32
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
I've started to call around for another installer/plumber. Not getting any commitments. Very frustrating.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/20/2018, 03:14 PM   #33
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
LED's Almost Ready

So all 4 LED's are working. I have all the wires bundled up. I just need to add the fans and lenses on the LED's. I will be mounting them above where my tank is going to be this week.

I did have a couple of issues.

I found a bad BJB LED connector. I had a spare, so I swapped it out.

I did notice that the Red LED's would blink if I lowered the power level below 30%. This was fixed by adding another LED (I used Royal Blue) to the 6 Red LED's. Adding one additional LED was enough load on the power supply to now let me lower the power level to 0% before the LED's started to blink. The power supplies I am using cannot go to 0% so at the low end there is a slight blink. When the lights are over the tank you will not see the blinking. What I will be doing is putting the power supplies on a timer. Once I get to the time at night when the lights will be off, I will turn off the power to the power supplies.

The second issue is a bigger one. The Bluefish controller I am using works just fine with one light. When I plug a 2nd light into the controller, some of the lights will stay turned on. I can not get them to turn off. I have an email out to the person/company that makes the controller to see if there is a solution. I checked my wiring a couple of times, but I am going to check it again just to make sure I didn't wire something wrong. The only solution I can see at this point is that I will need one Bluefish controller per light ouch. I was not expecting to need that. I've used other controllers in the past that could handle multiple power supplies connected to the same dimming output. Hopefully the person that makes the Bluefish controller will get back to me soon.

Also after 6 years, the LED light over my 45 gallon cube dropped the blue colors this weekend. So I did some troubleshooting and found that the power supply for the blue LED's was bad. I had a spare and swapped it out. It took me about an hour to troubleshoot the issue and to swap out the bad supply.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg HZ-LED.jpg (69.1 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg HZ-LED-1.jpg (85.9 KB, 13 views)
kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/21/2018, 11:48 AM   #34
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Bluefish Controller Update

I spoke with the designer/builder of the Bluefish controller yesterday. He indicated that the MeanWell LPF supplies only draw 0.1ma on the dimming circuit. The Bluefish controller is capable of supplying 40ma per channel. Theoretically that means I could have 400 LPF supplies on each channel. So the issue has to be on my end with the wiring. I am going to start from the beginning and rebuild the dimming distribution circuit for each channel and then add on each light one at a time to get the dimming to work correctly. I will post my findings.

Getting closer.

Also my 130 gallon tank will be installed tomorrow. This tank will be using 1 - Gen 3 Radion and 2 - Gen 4 Radions.


Then on to the 250 gallon tank. This is the one with my DIY lights.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/22/2018, 08:36 PM   #35
drtrash
Registered Member
 
drtrash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: S. Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 2,178
I have a name for you will send it over


drtrash is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2018, 11:57 AM   #36
Vanpire
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,134
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjonulak View Post
I spoke with the designer/builder of the Bluefish controller yesterday. He indicated that the MeanWell LPF supplies only draw 0.1ma on the dimming circuit. The Bluefish controller is capable of supplying 40ma per channel. Theoretically that means I could have 400 LPF supplies on each channel. So the issue has to be on my end with the wiring. I am going to start from the beginning and rebuild the dimming distribution circuit for each channel and then add on each light one at a time to get the dimming to work correctly. I will post my findings.

Getting closer.

Also my 130 gallon tank will be installed tomorrow. This tank will be using 1 - Gen 3 Radion and 2 - Gen 4 Radions.


Then on to the 250 gallon tank. This is the one with my DIY lights.
What do you see is the primary difference between the Radion and your DIY?

I mean why didn't you do DIY over the 130 also? And the following question is also why did you decide to go with DIY instead of Radion?


__________________
Today is a good day. Tomorrow will be even better.
Vanpire is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2018, 12:55 PM   #37
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vanpire View Post
What do you see is the primary difference between the Radion and your DIY?

I mean why didn't you do DIY over the 130 also? And the following question is also why did you decide to go with DIY instead of Radion?
My main tank (250) will have a canopy over the top. The company I use to get blank fixtures from stopped selling them. So for the build over the 250 gallon you will not see the working part of the LED lights (heatsink, LED's, fans and wiring) so it doesn't need to look pretty. If I was to purchase lights for the 250, I would have gone with the Mitras LX-7, most likely 4 of them.

On the smaller tank (130) it is rimless with no canopy. I wanted a light that would function for what I want in the tank and look nice.

My preference would have been to build the lights over the 130 gallon also, but the need to have something that looks nice was the overriding factor.

I have a couple of Gen3 Radions that I picked up used. They seem to work. I was able to pick up a couple of used Gen4 Radions (not pro). I am going to use one of the Gen3's in the middle and the 2 Gen4's on either side of it and suspend them from my ceiling above the tank. The tank is 60" long so the Gen3 will be in the middle (30") and the Gen4's at 15" off center.

For my DIY build and can pretty much build it the way I want with the colors and number of LED's to get full coverage over the tank without having the shadowing issue that comes with LED's.

At the moment, I am very disappointed in the light controller. The dimming wiring I setup is correct. What I have found out is that if I hook up 1 light everything works great. When I hook up a 2nd or 3rd (haven't tried 4 yet) I can not get the LED's to dim down to an off level. If I measure the 0-10Vdc signal from the controller with one light I can get to the 0Vdc level (measured on my voltmeter). Which corresponds to the 0% level in the app. At the 1% level the LED's will flicker or blink, but they are so dim it really doesn't matter. When I hook up the 2nd light, I can't get the controller to go to 0Vdc. It stops at 0.58Vdc which is still high enough to keep the LED's lit. I can increase to the 10Vdc and I am still getting a smooth transition. With 3 lights connected the OVdc only goes to 0.68Vdc which is higher which means the LED's are still on.

The builder of the controller has been responding to my emails, but it takes a long time. He is not sure why it is happening. He built the thing, you would think he would know or offer to setup a test circuit and see what may be happening.

I also reached out to MeanWell and they actually called me today. I sent them my schematics and we talked at length as to what is happening. Maybe they can provide a solution. I'm thinking I have a grounding issue with the DIM- signal on the the dimming circuit with the MeanWell supplies. When I measure the ground circuit with the controller in place with no power applied, it all looks good.

Since one light works with one controller, my option may be to purchase another 3 controllers and the stereo to RJ45 cables. I will have to rewire the dimming wires in my power modules. It's doable, but also a very expensive fix to have to get another 3 controllers and wires.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2018, 03:50 PM   #38
Sisterlimonpot
R.C. Fraternity President
 
Sisterlimonpot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Litchfeild Park AZ
Posts: 11,490
Blog Entries: 2
Have they been able to rule out whether or not each string of LED's has to have very similar forward voltage?

Not sure how the drivers are constructed, however even when running 2 strings parallel to each other and then try to dim them via PWM one string will always start to flicker at the lower voltages while the other dims out correctly. not sure if that is something to look into or not but it might be something to entertain and rule out.

Hopefully (as you stated) you don't need to have a controller per each string...


__________________
Jimmy
MASVC President

Dishes are done man!

Current Tank Info: 300 in progress
Sisterlimonpot is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2018, 04:51 PM   #39
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sisterlimonpot View Post
Have they been able to rule out whether or not each string of LED's has to have very similar forward voltage?

Not sure how the drivers are constructed, however even when running 2 strings parallel to each other and then try to dim them via PWM one string will always start to flicker at the lower voltages while the other dims out correctly. not sure if that is something to look into or not but it might be something to entertain and rule out.

Hopefully (as you stated) you don't need to have a controller per each string...
Each string is designed based on the power supply output. I always try to put as many LED's per supply based on the output voltage. The higher the load, the more smooth the transition is during dimming whether up or down. MeanWell has some good technical/design documents. Each LED string for the given color is the same on all 4 lights. So for example the UV setup for each light is 1 - LPF-25D-36 power supply with 10 UV LED's. So for the channel on the controller that is controlling the UV LED's all 4 strings are identical.

I have been running 2 parallel strings of blues for years now. I don't get any flicker regardless of the power level except at the 1% or below (LPF supply) which is fine. I have used different supplies (ELN series) which can go to 0 and turn off with no flicker. Both parallel circuits increase and decrease with no noticeable difference. I have used both 0-10Vdc or the PWM signal and I don't see a difference.

I have built multi-light units like what I built for my tank before. At the time I had a different controller. It doesn't have a phone app and it only controls 4 channels so I would have to use 2 of them to get 6 channels. The company that built them is long gone, closed up years ago. I still have 2 of the controllers. One I am using on my cube tank and the other was a spare. That's why I wanted to go with something that is current and has more control.

After talking with MeanWell today, I sent them all of my schematics, the info on the Bluefish controller and a detailed description of the voltages I am seeing with one light and multiple lights. I'm hoping that they will have an answer as to what is happening.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/23/2018, 10:22 PM   #40
Dave_J
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 25
Thanks for the write up.


Dave_J is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/24/2018, 11:15 AM   #41
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_J View Post
Thanks for the write up.
You're welcome.

I figured I would also include all the issues, since they happen.

I configured the Bluefish app so that all of channels now reflect the actual colors I am using for each of the channels. I also added a program to the schedule to test the ramp up/down features. I am doing this with just one light right now.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/24/2018, 11:32 AM   #42
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Adding The Fans

When it comes to quiet fans the Gelid fans can't be beat. You can't hear them running. In addition, I get the temperature controlled fans. These fans when 12Vdc is applied will spin at a slower rate, once the temperature of the heatsink increases the temp probe on the fan will sense the heat increase and spin the fan at a faster rate. As the heatsink cools down, for example during the night ramp down, the fan will slow down again.

I've always thought about what is the best way to attach the fans to the heatsinks. In the past, I would drill holes through the heatsink and run bolts to hold them in place. This time, I came up with a new idea. Drywall anchors, yep simple and easy, no drilling required. You need the type that have 4 sides to them. The local big box hardware stores didn't have what I needed. I had a couple of them and I used my magnify glasses to read the part number and Amazon to the rescue.

You need the 4 sided drywall anchor because as the anchor expands it needs to expand in all directions. The 2 sided anchors will twist and not lock into the heatsink fins. With the screws tightened down I can actually lift the fan and the heatsink comes up with it. The heatsinks weigh at least 20lbs.

When I run my 12Vdc wires to power the fans, I have the parts and tool to make the connectors that connect to the power connector on the fan. This way when a fan needs replacing in the future, it is an easy swap. No crimp connectors or soldering required, did I mention I hate soldering lol.

So there you have it a simple and effective way to connect your fans to your heatsinks.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7833.jpg (55.9 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7834.jpg (66.3 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7836.jpg (77.7 KB, 7 views)
kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/25/2018, 03:28 PM   #43
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
All 4 Lights Tested

Still no resolution on the dimming issue, I haven't heard back from MeanWell yet.

I did connect all 4 lights to the Bluefish dimming controller. I have a schedule running in the Bluefish and all the lights are working great. Once I figured out how to program the various dimming options, I do like the Bluefish controller. It has a fast forward option that runs through the entire program to show you the whole sunrise to sunset and nighttime settings. Nice feature.

On Wednesday the 250 gallon will be installed. I am planning on installing the lights over it after that and then testing the dimming issue over the tank to see how bright the lights are at the low end.

Looking at the overall cost to get another 3 controllers and the stereo to RJ45 connectors, I thought that maybe going the route of changing out the power supplies could be a viable option. I could sell the used supplies on Ebay and recoup some cash. MeanWell has a couple of other series power supplies that will dim to 0, the NPF and PWM series, but unfortunately the lowest power rating is 40Watts and my UV, WW, Red and Green LED's need 25Watt supplies. So that option isn't going to work. Plus getting those supplies would not be a guaranty that the Bluefish controller would work correctly. I could still have the same issue. If the dim to 0 supplies would have been an option I would have only ordered 2 of the same size supply and then tried them on 2 lights to see if it worked. Either way, it doesn't matter.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/26/2018, 11:30 AM   #44
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Another Test Idea

Since I know my design with all four lights is working, I decided I am going to test my design with the older style controller that I have. All I need to do is to make an interface from the older controller to my current layout. Shouldn't be too hard. I have several lights that work with the older controller. Just need to pop open one the power module boxes and look at the wiring. If I have time today I will give it a try.

What I want to see is if the issue is with the MeanWell supplies or the Bluefish controller. If the older controller works, then I can go back to the owner/designer of the Bluefish controller with the data. If it is MeanWell power supply, then I can go back to them with the data.

I ran all four lights through the schedule yesterday and into last night. The lowest light level that the Bluefish controller goes to is way to bright and instead of having that nice smooth transition through sunset to darkness is not going to work for me.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/26/2018, 12:50 PM   #45
Dave_J
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 25
The schematic shows 3 outputs from the Bluefish containing 6 channel signals. Is there a common ground?

Have you tried pwm levels?


Dave_J is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/26/2018, 12:56 PM   #46
Dave_J
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Gilbert, Arizona
Posts: 25
Never mind, I see the ground in the plug.


Dave_J is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/26/2018, 02:27 PM   #47
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_J View Post
Never mind, I see the ground in the plug.
The ground in the plug is to ground the heatsink to ground. So if there is an issue I don't get zapped.

The maker of the Bluefish controller, Spencer indicated to me that all the minus signal ports are tied together in the Bluefish controller. I did do a test to measure resistance on the minus signal ports including my wiring and it appears that there is a common minus signal ground.

So I build a connector to make the dimming signals from the older style controller I have work with the wiring setup I made for the Bluefish controller. The good news is that my wiring including the MeanWell LPF supplies is working correctly. With the older controller I can get the individual channels to dim to zero when all four lights are connected together. So the issue is with the Bluefish controller. I sent my results to Spencer asking for help to see if he can do some testing to see why the Bluefish controller is not working correctly. I'm hoping he will respond and have a fix.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/26/2018, 02:30 PM   #48
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_J View Post
The schematic shows 3 outputs from the Bluefish containing 6 channel signals. Is there a common ground?

Have you tried pwm levels?
Yes, I tried both the PWM and Analog 0-10Vdc signals. Neither one changes the output voltage level I am seeing when the Bluefish controller should be sending a 0 volt signal. I also tried setting the minimum level to something just above 0 to see if that would make a difference. That didn't help either.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/27/2018, 12:25 PM   #49
kjonulak
Registered Member
 
kjonulak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: North Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 501
Apex Controller

So MeanWell indicated there isn't anything that they can recommend adding/changing when using the Bluefish controller. The owner Spencer (Bluefish) has not been returning my emails.

So, in doing some further investigation, I'm thinking that an Apex Controller might be my other option. I did some math.

In order to make my current setup work, I would need to get another 3 Bluefish controllers, the cables needed to convert the stereo jacks to RJ-45.

Bluefish - $200/each - $600
Icecap Stereo to RJ-45 (I have 3 already, but I would need 4 per Bluefish controller) - $12/each so I need another 13 - $156
The Bluefish has 3 output ports, because of my setup I would need to split the 3/4 channel output so I need 4 stereo splitters. $6/each $24

Grand total is $780. Plus I would need to program each unit. If I am going to spend that much, I might as well get an Apex Unit ($800) plus the additional VDM module ($100) so I can control the 6 channels. I would also have 2 spare channels I could play with. Maybe make a separate lunar light. I would also need a couple of the 75' USB cables for Apex at $65/each. I would want the VDM modules close to the tank and my fish room where the Apex would reside is 45-50' away from my 250 gallon. So for an extra $250 I can get the Apex with what I need. My plan was to get an Apex at some point. Maybe now is better.

I have been reading up on how to program the Apex unit to control the VDM outputs for DIY lights and it doesn't seem all that difficult. I use to write the service control/support programs when I worked for HP years ago for their Magneto-Optical Library systems. Just need to dust off some brain cells. Worse case, my middle son works for MicroSoft programming the Hololens (augmented reality) product. I was I able to try the Hololens product the last time I was up in Seattle, awesome product. I could get him to help me code the Apex. He wired up a Raspberry PI unit to watch over his vegetable seedlings, controlling the LED lights and measuring moisture etc. He loves to program. I think he would jump at the chance to program an Apex unit.


kjonulak is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 08/27/2018, 01:58 PM   #50
Sisterlimonpot
R.C. Fraternity President
 
Sisterlimonpot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Litchfeild Park AZ
Posts: 11,490
Blog Entries: 2
Meh,

If it's possible, it would be well within your wheelhouse to program. sending you a PM.


__________________
Jimmy
MASVC President

Dishes are done man!

Current Tank Info: 300 in progress
Sisterlimonpot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.