Reef Central Online Community

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Reef Discussion
Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Unread 12/22/2014, 04:15 PM   #26
PSU4ME
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 17
Wow, that is a monster of a tank. I'm currently a few steps behind you..... Going to let the house tell me the size if the tank (spot, support, doorway size!). Definitely thinking the 300g range. Love the 8' wingspan on it...... The fish will love it!


__________________
B

Current Tank Info: 120g Starphire, Lifereef system, Radion LED, EA UV (25w), Tunze osmolator. SPS and LPS with a few fish.
PSU4ME is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/22/2014, 05:32 PM   #27
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
I've been pretty nervous about the weight. I have a good friend that builds bridges and is a structural engineer. He crunched the numbers and said I should be okay but am at the limit for the load on that beam with the support already in.

That being said, my basement is all the way finished (dry wall ceiling and wall.) Because of this it is hard to work back there but doable if I rip out some drywall. I drilled a hole upstairs in the floor to figure out exactly where the back of the tank will sit and set a flashlight above it shining down.

I measured that about 3 inches of the back of the tank will sit directly above the concrete wall of the basement which is 10inches thick. What do you think about putting a bunch of 4x4's in above the concrete to the subfloor all along that distance. That should be super strong as the weight would be transferred to the thick concrete wall of the basement.

I also was able to measure exactly where the supported joist is and it will be 13" off the back of the tank so running down the middle of the tank parallel.

What do you guys think?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinsonFam1 View Post
the fact that the tank runs along an exterior wall is insignificant in this scenario due to the fact your tank and joists are parallel. if it were opposite then yes it would be helpful.

since the basement wall is already built and finished im assuming then moving it and making changes is out of the question.

the needed info now is how finished is it? can you add joists/beams in or do you need to remove some sheet rock?

yes you will need to take the info to your local lumber yard that sells/specs those joists for a load calculation to be done. ask them the best routes with options to support the tank and still maintain as close to zero deflection as possible (preferable).

i joists and engineered lumber is awesome to work with because it offers so many possibilities.



jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/22/2014, 05:54 PM   #28
RobinsonFam1
Registered Member
 
RobinsonFam1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 616
2x4's vertically will be sufficient over 4x4. make sure that you use pressure treated though as they will be directly on the concrete.

not to beat up your friend but i honestly cant imagine that a clear span i joist like that will support about 3000 pounds. ive done a bunch of load calcs (im not an engineer, but am a contractor) for many ppl building large tanks and have never seen your scenario pass at all ever once.

here's my recommendation:

measure your joint: height, and the thickness of the flanges (top and bottom of i joist) and note type of plywood webbing
measure the distance of the joist span. (how far it is from one resting spot to the other
look for printing on the joist to designate the manufacturer and series of joist. pics of the joist webbing and flanges (top and bottom) will help too.

if you can find the manf name etc then call them or take your info to a lumber yard and have them run the load calcs. the lumber yards have the software and can spec what you need. a good detailed drawing will help too. it doesn't have to be scale but does need to be very clear.

the easiest support i ever put in was for an 10' tank about 300 gal on joist lay out like yours. i had to install a double i joist at front edge of the tank. this basement was not finished so it was easier. took about an hour and joists i think were about $200?? then. maybe cheaper. it was a while ago.



Last edited by RobinsonFam1; 12/22/2014 at 05:56 PM. Reason: oops
RobinsonFam1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/22/2014, 06:06 PM   #29
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
Thanks for the reply,

Did you see my drawing on the first page?? It shows the 20,000 lb jack and 8 2x4's that run directly under that joist..

Does that change your opinion of the situation at all?

I agree that without it I would be toast!

Let me know,

JIM

Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinsonFam1 View Post
2x4's vertically will be sufficient over 4x4. make sure that you use pressure treated though as they will be directly on the concrete.

not to beat up your friend but i honestly cant imagine that a clear span i joist like that will support about 3000 pounds. ive done a bunch of load calcs (im not an engineer, but am a contractor) for many ppl building large tanks and have never seen your scenario pass at all ever once.

here's my recommendation:

measure your joint: height, and the thickness of the flanges (top and bottom of i joist) and note type of plywood webbing
measure the distance of the joist span. (how far it is from one resting spot to the other
look for printing on the joist to designate the manufacturer and series of joist. pics of the joist webbing and flanges (top and bottom) will help too.

if you can find the manf name etc then call them or take your info to a lumber yard and have them run the load calcs. the lumber yards have the software and can spec what you need. a good detailed drawing will help too. it doesn't have to be scale but does need to be very clear.

the easiest support i ever put in was for an 10' tank about 300 gal on joist lay out like yours. i had to install a double i joist at front edge of the tank. this basement was not finished so it was easier. took about an hour and joists i think were about $200?? then. maybe cheaper. it was a while ago.



jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/22/2014, 06:08 PM   #30
RobinsonFam1
Registered Member
 
RobinsonFam1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 616
if your tank is 8'x2' footprint then the pounds per sq ft is 265# and thats not including rock, tank, stand, sump, sand, etc....water only

id be willing to be that your floor system is rated for 40#psf. unless someone invloved in the construction asked for more then that is probably the number.
this does not mean that your floor will cave just from walking on it. this psf rating is also tied to the amount of allowable deflection that the industry sees fit. so for your floor to pass code etc with allowing it to move/deflect while you walk and load it with furniture it must be able to hold a certain amount of additional weight.
3K #'s is not the standard number. lol.

shoot me a pm if you would like. im more than happy to help!

tell my former Illinois'ans i say hello. i was smart enough to fly south a while back! dont miss that cold stuff!


RobinsonFam1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/22/2014, 06:13 PM   #31
RobinsonFam1
Registered Member
 
RobinsonFam1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 616
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlnielsen13 View Post
Thanks for the reply,

Did you see my drawing on the first page?? It shows the 20,000 lb jack and 8 2x4's that run directly under that joist..

Does that change your opinion of the situation at all?

I agree that without it I would be toast!

Let me know,

JIM
yes i did. the placement of the tank in relation to the supporting wall/post is the big question. if the wall is centered under the tank it still may cause a problem, the tank may want to lean forward.

the jack post is useless in this scenario. its not needed at all since you have a wall there.
3) 2x4's properly nailed together support the same amount and can be swapped out for the jack post.

im also concerned about the joist "squashing" under the limit directly under the wall. it will be carrying the main amount of load.



Last edited by RobinsonFam1; 12/22/2014 at 06:14 PM. Reason: add on
RobinsonFam1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/22/2014, 06:51 PM   #32
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
Thanks again for all the replies,

The I joists are 12" from top to bottom (width). They are placed every 16" on center so it does hit only the one. They are "chipped particle board engineered I-beams. I have a 180 gallon over it right now with no noticed deflection and the tank is still perfectly level. I understand I am doubling the weight hence the concern.

The span from the left to right side of the tank will be 11 feet. It runs from a concrete wall on right side to a metal I beam on left seen in actual picture of basement.

Do you think if I run support off the concrete wall I will be really supporting this thing? Or do you think the tank will tend to tip gradually forward do to the front 10" of the tank not being supported by anything underneath??

I want to make it right and would build a wall in front as well if needed but would like to avoid it if it isn't necessary.

Jim


Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinsonFam1 View Post
yes i did. the placement of the tank in relation to the supporting wall/post is the big question. if the wall is centered under the tank it still may cause a problem, the tank may want to lean forward.

the jack post is useless in this scenario. its not needed at all since you have a wall there.
3) 2x4's properly nailed together support the same amount and can be swapped out for the jack post.

im also concerned about the joist "squashing" under the limit directly under the wall. it will be carrying the main amount of load.



jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/22/2014, 06:52 PM   #33
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
Also,

The supporting wall will be about 12-13" off the back of the tank meaning almost right down the middle.

Thanks,
'
JIM


jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/23/2014, 03:20 PM   #34
RobinsonFam1
Registered Member
 
RobinsonFam1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: USA
Posts: 616
ill take the info to my engineer as soon as they are open from the holidays and double check for ya.

dont worry, invoice is in the mail! lol!

what part of Illinois are you in? I grew up in Bloomington for my first 21 years.


RobinsonFam1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/23/2014, 07:39 PM   #35
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
Awesome- thank you very much..

I live in Yorkville, IL which is about 30 minutes west of Naperville/aurora.

Thanks for all the help!!

Jim


Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinsonFam1 View Post
ill take the info to my engineer as soon as they are open from the holidays and double check for ya.

dont worry, invoice is in the mail! lol!

what part of Illinois are you in? I grew up in Bloomington for my first 21 years.



jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/23/2014, 08:03 PM   #36
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
Here is the new "blue print" :

The Black squares are everything I am planning to add this week. The back three are 1 foot floor jacks that will be placed directly on top of the basement concrete wall up to the subfloor. By drilling a hole in my first floor I was able to determine that about 2 inches of my tank all the way along the back edge will be sitting above that concrete wall.



The two in the middle are going to be from basement concrete floor to ceiling(subfloor of 1st floor) and I am going to try and put a 2x6 in between those as a header.

Not sure if it would be more beneficial for those to be staggered as pictured or at the edges of the tank??

Thanks for all the help<

JIM



Quote:
Originally Posted by RobinsonFam1 View Post
ill take the info to my engineer as soon as they are open from the holidays and double check for ya.

dont worry, invoice is in the mail! lol!

what part of Illinois are you in? I grew up in Bloomington for my first 21 years.



jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/25/2014, 11:59 AM   #37
kmu
Registered Member
 
kmu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: In the DESERT
Posts: 3,306
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlnielsen13 View Post
Hello fellow Reefers,





Jim
Amazing colors, love how the softies stand out, what kind of lighting are you running and what color combo on it?

Good luck on your build!!!


__________________
Current Reef tanks

In Wall 400g 1" acrylic 72x36x36 (Hydras, Marco rocks,Tunze osmolator, Vertex Alpha cone 250)
kmu is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/25/2014, 08:01 PM   #38
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
Hello,

Thanks! It is a 140 gallon 5 foot tank with a Dimmable ATI sunpower 8 bulb t5 fixture. I have mostly blue+ with one purple + a coral+ an actinic bulb in there as well. I would have a year or so with sps and then one bad weekend would take out a year of growth and 1,00o's of $'s .

Since I cannot provide a proper home for SPS(my guess is chemical warfare from softies) I have decided to stick with LPS and Softies- I am confident what I put in my tank will survive. If I think it won't I don't even think of purchasing the coral anymore!!

HERE'S A VIDEO OF MY REEF:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asVWF...&feature=share

Thanks,

Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmu View Post
Amazing colors, love how the softies stand out, what kind of lighting are you running and what color combo on it?

Good luck on your build!!!



jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/26/2014, 12:00 AM   #39
Propjockey
Registered Member
 
Propjockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 40
Hello Jim, and Merry Christmas!


I'm a few steps behind you, but I'm building a 210g. I am also in the spot where my tank runs parallel with the joists. Feel free to follow my build thread called "Started the 180g reef tank build today". I could use advice as well!

OK. I'm a third generation large custom home builder, turned professional cabinetmaker, seven years ago. I can tell you, with utmost certainty, that a single ply I-Joist will not support that weight. What happens is that the joist will "torque" itself sideways, with all that weight, and basically will keep twisting until it fails. I once set a large pile of lumber on a second floor, with a all-terrain forklift, on a house we were building. When I set the load down, I thought I was catching two joists, only caught one, and watched the structural failure from underneath, while operating the lift. Hairy scary indeed. Don't underestimate it...replacing a broken I-Joist typically involves cutting a hole through the outside of the house, to slide the new one in. That's one of the beauty's of I-Joists, they're long enough to go from the front of the house, all the way to the back of the house, in one piece. And if there's any sort of mechanicals running through it, you'll have a very costly repair. Really.

Your idea of "ready-posts" from the plywood subfloor to the concrete slab is an excellent idea. But if it were me, I'd place them at all four corners, and wherever the braces cross the tank. If there's a brace there, its already been recognized as a structural point by the manufacturer; go with it.

As you'll see by my pics, I went with two triple-laminated 2x10 beams, and my maximum span is 7'; my tank is 6'. I beefed it up as my experience has taught/showed me. Floor deflection freaks me out around tanks. I very much dislike seeing my canopy move, when I walk across the room. Not this time. Nope. No way. And don't forget, even if your engineer friend says the calcs work, does that also include 3,4,5 (extra 400-1000#'s)... people standing around it?

Add the Ready-Posts. Maybe if the front spacing of the posts allow, you can stick a little ventless fireplace in the opening and disguise the "box-out". Wine cubbies, bookshelves, etc...many options available.



Best of luck!


-J-


__________________
210g mixed reef tank, 75g basement filtration tank/refugium, custom self-made distressed cherry stand and canopy, Bubble Magus skimmer, 36w UV filter, twin 300w heaters w/temp controller
Propjockey is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/26/2014, 08:12 AM   #40
Dapg8gt
Registered Member
 
Dapg8gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pacifica
Posts: 3,741
Great looking build and imo it's a good thing you are asking before doing, one thing most people don't do.

Im on the same thought process in the that you need support at all four corners, instead of leaving the front and back span "floating" on literally just plywood and hardwood flooring. As others on here have done I think it's safest to basically build a structure under the entire tank all the way to the slab for the best support. I personally feel that the one I bean running through the center is not going to cut it and will cause the tank to lean eventually, possibly instantly.


__________________
15 years in the hobby yet still learning every day.

280g radium lit sps flat living in my garage rent free.

Current Tank Info: 105g SPS dominant euro braced powered by 4 ecotech pumps and lit by an ATI powermodule controlled by a reef angel =).
Dapg8gt is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/26/2014, 12:52 PM   #41
Propjockey
Registered Member
 
Propjockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 40
Here's what I did, Jim...


-J-


Attached Images
File Type: jpg Basement4.jpg (47.5 KB, 174 views)
__________________
210g mixed reef tank, 75g basement filtration tank/refugium, custom self-made distressed cherry stand and canopy, Bubble Magus skimmer, 36w UV filter, twin 300w heaters w/temp controller
Propjockey is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/26/2014, 06:39 PM   #42
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
Fish room !!!!!!!!!!!

Hello,

SO A LOT has happened in the last 12 hours including my decision to rip apart my basement and build a FISH ROOM!!! I am so excited about this as both of my tanks- with a lot of luck , will both be serviced down in the fish room. This will include all equipment, sumps etc.

Please take a look at what I did and let me know if you think I need additional support!

This is my dad as we ripped out all the drywall.. The wall you can see is directly under the I joist that is supporting the tank>



As you can see I used 4x6 posts and headers at both ends of the eight foot tank and tied then in using a 4x6 header. I do not have a post running down directly under the front corner, it is about 2 feet holding up another joist. I am assuming that the cross header will support all that weight.

Framed out

Drywall and door finished.

View inside the fish room..

Lots of work to be done but I hope the support is overload?!?!? Please let me know.

Plumbing, yet to come as I need to be able to do EVERYTHING in this room- only way I sold it to the wife.

Been working on it since 6 this morning but feel good getting the room up.

Thanks,

Jim





Quote:
Originally Posted by Propjockey View Post
Here's what I did, Jim...


-J-



jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/26/2014, 06:56 PM   #43
Lavoisier
Premium Member
 
Lavoisier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 1,030
Quote:
Originally Posted by Propjockey View Post
Here's what I did, Jim...


-J-
Well done. I hope folks are paying attention!


__________________
"...for it is not necessary that these hypotheses should be true, or even probably; but it is enough if they provide a calculus which fits the observations..."--Introduction (attributed to Andrew Osiander) to On the Revolutions of the Heavenly Sphere by Nicolaus Copernicus.

Current Tank Info: 600g DT, 140g sump, 200g Cryptic, 90g Refugium, 3-400w MH, 2 Reeflo Barracudas, and 3 MP60s
Lavoisier is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/26/2014, 06:57 PM   #44
Lavoisier
Premium Member
 
Lavoisier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 1,030
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlnielsen13 View Post
Hello,

SO A LOT has happened in the last 12 hours including my decision to rip apart my basement and build a FISH ROOM!!! I am so excited about this as both of my tanks- with a lot of luck , will both be serviced down in the fish room. This will include all equipment, sumps etc.

Please take a look at what I did and let me know if you think I need additional support!

This is my dad as we ripped out all the drywall.. The wall you can see is directly under the I joist that is supporting the tank>



As you can see I used 4x6 posts and headers at both ends of the eight foot tank and tied then in using a 4x6 header. I do not have a post running down directly under the front corner, it is about 2 feet holding up another joist. I am assuming that the cross header will support all that weight.

Framed out

Drywall and door finished.

View inside the fish room..

Lots of work to be done but I hope the support is overload?!?!? Please let me know.

Plumbing, yet to come as I need to be able to do EVERYTHING in this room- only way I sold it to the wife.

Been working on it since 6 this morning but feel good getting the room up.

Thanks,

Jim



__________________
"...for it is not necessary that these hypotheses should be true, or even probably; but it is enough if they provide a calculus which fits the observations..."--Introduction (attributed to Andrew Osiander) to On the Revolutions of the Heavenly Sphere by Nicolaus Copernicus.

Current Tank Info: 600g DT, 140g sump, 200g Cryptic, 90g Refugium, 3-400w MH, 2 Reeflo Barracudas, and 3 MP60s
Lavoisier is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/26/2014, 07:38 PM   #45
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
Do you think I need to have more posts in the corners- couldn't tell if "I" was the one who needs to pay more attention..

Thanks,

JIM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lavoisier View Post
Well done. I hope folks are paying attention!



jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/26/2014, 08:22 PM   #46
Lavoisier
Premium Member
 
Lavoisier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Overland Park, KS
Posts: 1,030
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlnielsen13 View Post
Do you think I need to have more posts in the corners- couldn't tell if "I" was the one who needs to pay more attention..

Thanks,

JIM
You project is extremely well done and detailed, an inspiration and model for us all.


__________________
"...for it is not necessary that these hypotheses should be true, or even probably; but it is enough if they provide a calculus which fits the observations..."--Introduction (attributed to Andrew Osiander) to On the Revolutions of the Heavenly Sphere by Nicolaus Copernicus.

Current Tank Info: 600g DT, 140g sump, 200g Cryptic, 90g Refugium, 3-400w MH, 2 Reeflo Barracudas, and 3 MP60s
Lavoisier is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/27/2014, 06:42 AM   #47
Propjockey
Registered Member
 
Propjockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 40
LOL, Jim!!!!!

Well done on ripping apart the basement and building a maintenance room; you made the correct choice (in my eyes)!


Two things I personally would do:

- Add some solid blocking between the joists, above the headers. I-Joists come in two 11" sizes- 11 1/4" and 11 7/8". Regular dimensional 2x12 will work for either. That will completely eliminate any torquing that may occur.

- Is there any plumbing available in that soffit, or is it strictly full of HVAC ductwork? If you could squeeze a canister lift pump, and a slop sink over it in that room, you'd have one sweet setup! I moved my sump/refugium to the basement because I wanted less weight on the first floor (additional 75g/ 600# +/-), and because I wanted the water mess in an unfinished area with a floor drain. If there's no plumbing available, maybe you can at least core a 4" hole through the slab to help drain any water that may end up on the floor. There should be a minimum of 4" of pea gravel under your slab. That will soak up quite a bit of water before its reaches its maximum permeation. Just a small piece of mind, for any possible flood issues. And since you have the ceiling open, why not double up the joists anyways? That's easy peasy, at this point!

I have a tendency to overbuild things, simply because you'll only get one shot at it. Adding extra support after the tank is full doesn't work; the floor is already pre-stressed with the weight. Additional support needs to stress equally to be effective.

You've made great progress and I hope you feel better about it!

As for me, it's time to get up, shower, and head to Milwaukee to get my tanks. Yay.



-J-


__________________
210g mixed reef tank, 75g basement filtration tank/refugium, custom self-made distressed cherry stand and canopy, Bubble Magus skimmer, 36w UV filter, twin 300w heaters w/temp controller
Propjockey is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/28/2014, 10:06 PM   #48
jlnielsen13
Registered Member
 
jlnielsen13's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 599
I have been working almost non-stop this weekend and got a lot done as far as finishing the walls for the fish room.

Fish room.... what fish room??

Here's what it looks like on the inside!





I have to do a little more work but then it will be on to plumbing and figuring out the skematics of where everything goes.

All advice is appreciated! Especially people who have a basement fish room.


I also added another 2x12 "joist" that runs along the front edge of the tank. I think it should give me some additional support, thoughts?


Thanks

JIM


jlnielsen13 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/28/2014, 11:09 PM   #49
Propjockey
Registered Member
 
Propjockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 40
Well done!

You musta been taping that drywall with Durabond 45, to get that taped, painted and trimmed out in one weekend.

As you were...


__________________
210g mixed reef tank, 75g basement filtration tank/refugium, custom self-made distressed cherry stand and canopy, Bubble Magus skimmer, 36w UV filter, twin 300w heaters w/temp controller
Propjockey is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 12/28/2014, 11:14 PM   #50
Propjockey
Registered Member
 
Propjockey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 40
Oh, one more thing...

Install "squash blocks" on both sides of the I-Joists, above where the beams are. They are 5 1/2" wide, so use a vertical 2x6 from beam to subfloor. It helps transfer the weight from the top chord to the bottom chord, without relying on the 1/2" flakeboard core.


-J-


Attached Images
File Type: jpg blocks.jpg (62.5 KB, 142 views)
__________________
210g mixed reef tank, 75g basement filtration tank/refugium, custom self-made distressed cherry stand and canopy, Bubble Magus skimmer, 36w UV filter, twin 300w heaters w/temp controller
Propjockey is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
300 gallon, mixed reef, stand, sump

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2022
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.