Reef Central Online Community
Marine Depot

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > New to the Hobby
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 05/18/2018, 06:05 AM   #1
Bryce H.
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 26
Quarantine Help

So Iím building my DT right now (finishing up PVC plumbing then ready to start cycling) but I have a couple questions about setting up a QT tank as id like to quarantine while my tank is cycling to speed up getting fish into DT. I am thinking either a 20L or 29G for the quarantine. I have a Fluval 406 canister filter that is brand new and not being used. Here are my questions.

Should I use the canister filter I have or buy a sponge filter?

How can I seed the tank as I donít have any filter media from an established tank? Can I use Dr. Timís to get some bacteria into the canister or sponge?

If I do canister, should I buy a small powerhead for flow and more surface aggitation for oxygen exchange?

If I do use the canister, I will be removing carbon if I medicate (still havenít decided if Iím going to go with a QT to monitor or do preventative medicating)


Bryce H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2018, 07:35 AM   #2
nereefpat
Registered Member
 
nereefpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Nebraska
Posts: 2,776
A 20L or 29 is great size for a qt, as long as you aren't buying huge fish. How big is the display, or what fish will you be quarantining, by the way?

If you want to use a filter in the qt, then the canister will be fine. As you said, carbon would need to be removed if you are medicating. I wouldn't bother with a powerhead (unless trying to qt an Achilles/sohal tang etc). Just point the return of the canister at the surface. I just use an air stone with no filter.

A bacterial starter like dr tim's would be fine. Another way to manage ammonia is just monitor it and do water changes and add Prime as needed.

Another thing...Don't rush. Take your time. Don't add everything at once. Nothing good happens fast here.


__________________
Pat

Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers
nereefpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2018, 07:48 AM   #3
Thornbreaker
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 215
You can totally be QTing while you're still setting up your display tank. I did the same thing. Just moved my 2 clowns over to the DT yesterday that were in QT since February. Gave me a good chance to practice water changes, feeding, observation, etc too.

I also did Tank Transfer Method prior to placing my 2 clowns into a 20 gallon QT. I'd recommend it. I did cycle my QT, but what nereefpat says is true to, you can do it either way. If you cycle it, you just need to make sure there's enough surface area. I had a HOB filter and an air sponge.


Thornbreaker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2018, 08:10 AM   #4
Bryce H.
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by nereefpat View Post
A 20L or 29 is great size for a qt, as long as you aren't buying huge fish. How big is the display, or what fish will you be quarantining, by the way?

If you want to use a filter in the qt, then the canister will be fine. As you said, carbon would need to be removed if you are medicating. I wouldn't bother with a powerhead (unless trying to qt an Achilles/sohal tang etc). Just point the return of the canister at the surface. I just use an air stone with no filter.

A bacterial starter like dr tim's would be fine. Another way to manage ammonia is just monitor it and do water changes and add Prime as needed.

Another thing...Don't rush. Take your time. Don't add everything at once. Nothing good happens fast here.
I have a 75G display and initial quarantine is going to be 2 clowns. Possibly a few chromis as well, all from a LFS that friends of mine in the hobby trust very well and have never once gotten a fish with any illness from them. Still quarantining obviously, even with their excellent track record.


Bryce H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2018, 08:18 AM   #5
nereefpat
Registered Member
 
nereefpat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Nebraska
Posts: 2,776
20L or 29 will be perfect for that. Good luck.


__________________
Pat

Current Tank Info: 125 in-wall , 40b sump. 6 bulb T5. ASM G2 skimmer. LPS and leathers
nereefpat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2018, 08:33 AM   #6
Bryce H.
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 26
Thanks for the help and quick response!


Bryce H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2018, 03:24 PM   #7
Bryce H.
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by nereefpat View Post
20L or 29 will be perfect for that. Good luck.
One last question and it may be a dumb one... After adding dr Timís, do I want to add the ammonium chloride and let it cycle or add it them add fish about a day or so later? Just want to make sure I do it correctly... Iíve heard both...


Bryce H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/19/2018, 07:56 AM   #8
Thornbreaker
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 215
If you add ammonia to start cycling, you'll need to wait till cycle is complete to add fish.

So if you dose to 2ppm ammonia, add bacteria, then wait for ammonia to drop to 0. And preferably nitrites to 0 as well. It may take a few days to as long as weeks even with Dr. Tim's.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk


Thornbreaker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05/20/2018, 11:30 AM   #9
Bryce H.
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thornbreaker View Post
If you add ammonia to start cycling, you'll need to wait till cycle is complete to add fish.

So if you dose to 2ppm ammonia, add bacteria, then wait for ammonia to drop to 0. And preferably nitrites to 0 as well. It may take a few days to as long as weeks even with Dr. Tim's.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
What would you recommend doing? Iíve heard to add bacteria then add fish and theyíll produce the ammonia through feeding and waste. Or you can cycle it, or you can my cycle it and just never allow it to get to that point by water changes or other means... looking for whatís going to be easiest and safest for fish.


Bryce H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/20/2018, 11:37 AM   #10
lagatbezan
Registered Member
 
lagatbezan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,057
you can also use instant ocean bio-spira. It has live bacteria in it that will instantly cycle your qt. I usually put a sponge in a cup and add the bio spira to the sponge. Let it sit for half a day and then put it in the qt.
Also get an ammonia badge. They are great.
I still suggest doing regular water changes for the qt.


__________________
Ryan.
300g with velocity t4 for return and a Reflo dart on a closed loop, T5 lights & SRO3000 skimmer.

Current Tank Info: 300g
lagatbezan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:59 PM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2014
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.