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06/03/2005, 10:00 AM | #251 |
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Holy Smokes, did I ramble on that much all by myself? It is 43 printed pages and it doesn't , I guess, include my worthless posts. Yikes!
Thanks Thrill.
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"Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation" Tom Current Tank Info: 130 Now out of service and a 29 |
06/03/2005, 11:18 AM | #252 |
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Awesome!
Great work!! Thanks so much!
Oh, and thanks to Waterkeeper too for all the excellent info. It is now being saved for posterity in my handy dandy notebook!! Cheers, Lorie |
06/03/2005, 11:23 AM | #253 |
Aka lemmywinks
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Just doing my civic duty for the day.
I thought about leaving all of MY posts since they are usually so helpful. I also removed all smilies as no one wants to see little red x's and I didn't feel like uploading all the different smilies.
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
06/03/2005, 11:24 AM | #254 |
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Post editing of your posts took out quite a few pages as well.
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
06/03/2005, 11:25 AM | #255 |
Aka lemmywinks
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But like you said, some of your posts was triggered by questions so following that page can be somewhat difficult.
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
06/03/2005, 11:26 AM | #256 |
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Top 50 poster! I'm such a PW.
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
06/03/2005, 11:31 AM | #257 | |
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Quote:
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Adrienne The only thing to fear is fear itself....and spiders. |
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06/03/2005, 12:01 PM | #258 |
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No problem, I live to serve.
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
06/03/2005, 01:53 PM | #259 | |
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Quote:
As a Prez should Official Vice Grand Pooh-Bah of the Thlride for Prez. thread
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Life is Tough, But It's Tougher if You're Stupid --John Wayne Freedom is Flying Go Spurs!!!!!!!!! |
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08/17/2005, 01:17 AM | #260 |
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I don't know how much has been answered about the automotive lamps, but I (Jay) work for the company that does lighting for GM. I have a good bit of first hand experience w/ the HID bulbs used in the Cadillac XLR sports car. They are Xenon charged tubes, that use a very complex Micro-controlled ballast, that fires the tube at ~1,200 volts. I believe (But can't recall if they are marked or not) they are 8,000K bulbs. don't know what else you were wondering about, but ask and ye shall recieve.
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Nicole of the Jay and Nicole show. Current Tank Info: 75 gallons of overgrown coral and still desiring a seahorse tank and our 210 up and running |
08/17/2005, 07:56 AM | #261 |
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Nice job on the edit Ryan, that should help someone out a lot that dont need to see all our PW comments Now back to the cage, you've been out too long
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Never be too shy to ask for help Current Tank Info: 12g nano, 37g,175g,25g,54g |
08/17/2005, 09:29 AM | #262 |
Aka lemmywinks
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Wow, this feels like it has been gone for a while!
Thanks scuba. Back to the cage I go!
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
08/18/2005, 09:04 AM | #263 |
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Asked about the headlights so long ago I forgot what I asked.
I think what I was talking about was restrike time. With a true metal halide you can't switch the lights off and then right back on again. The interior of the arc tube becomes highly conductive once the lamp has been on for awhile and heated. Hitting it with a 1200 volt start-up jolt would make the MH more like a flash bulb than a true lamp. It sure would burn very bright indeed for a second but that would be the end of it. There is a 15-20 minute delay time between turning the lamps off and back on to let things cool down and prevent that from occurring. Not so with the car headlamps. As you have said, they appear to use a special electronic ballast that matches the conductivity inside the arc tube to the amount of starting voltage applied. The enables them to be restarted right away. I also imagine it is why they don't start up dim and get brighter over time. The ballast probably cranks up the juice at first and then trims it down as the lamp warms, matching current applied to internal resistance. If they are doing it with car headlamps I am sure the MH ballast makers will follow suit in the near future. Thanks for the info Jay. Now all I need is to get Ryan to make a condensed version of what I just said.
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"Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation" Tom Current Tank Info: 130 Now out of service and a 29 |
08/18/2005, 03:19 PM | #264 |
Aka lemmywinks
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How about this:
Due to the increased conductivity within current metal halides after being on for a period of time you cannot switch them off and on again. I, Waterkeeper, master of most that is reefs, presume that in the near future ballast manufacturers will copy automotive HID ballasts and allow this to happen. Automotive ballasts are able to turn the headlights on and off repeatedly without any delay and the lights come on immediately without having to brighten as they warm up. I presume they do this by measuring the conductivity within the bulb and alter the voltage supplied to match the internal resistance. Does this mean that we could have the technology to dim on and dim off our metal halides to closely mimic the sunset/sunrise? Or how about dimming our lights for the seasons? We have moon phase controllers now, imagine the possibilities with a season controller!
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
08/18/2005, 03:22 PM | #265 |
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ummm, so did we ever come to a consensus on what produces the most bang for the buck? T5, HQI......
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08/18/2005, 05:02 PM | #266 |
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Oh yeah!!?? So's your old man, you a dirty son of a ballast! Your filament is limp and you couldn't fluoresce a lumen in heat. I bet even your lux is actinic. Go vaporize yourself!
Newbies United Against Knowledge in Reefkeeping. (Thanks, Waterkeeper.)
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Youth is temporary. Immaturity is forever. Current Tank Info: 36 gallon bow reef, 65 lbs. varied LR, 280 watts Orbit PC/MH/lunar, auto top-off with kalkwasser, modified CPR Aquafuge and Remora skimmer, Aqua-medic chiller, 2 SEIO 620s and supplemental carbon filtration. |
08/19/2005, 07:42 AM | #267 | |
Aka lemmywinks
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Quote:
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Beer Snob Current Tank Info: 210 gallon FOWLR (H&S 200a-1260 , panworld 50px-x, 2x Vortech w/ WWD) |
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08/19/2005, 09:56 AM | #268 | |
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Quote:
One little point here is that the bulk of the critters that we maintain are pretty much centered around the equator with very little seasonal variations and only small changes in photoperiod in the course of a year. Oh and Colescuttle, May a micromol of photons flux down upon your head.
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"Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation" Tom Current Tank Info: 130 Now out of service and a 29 |
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08/19/2005, 10:07 AM | #269 |
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He said "Flux", I'm telling.....
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America, the way it outta be! Current Tank Info: 120 Starphire with Illudium Q-288 Photon Regurgitator DIY LED lighting |
08/19/2005, 10:08 AM | #270 |
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just wanted to say
KUDOS TO YOU..!!!! GREAT THREAD |
08/19/2005, 10:16 AM | #271 | |
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Quote:
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Life is Tough, But It's Tougher if You're Stupid --John Wayne Freedom is Flying Go Spurs!!!!!!!!! |
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10/22/2005, 09:20 AM | #272 |
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WaterKeeper,
Is this old news, or is this really a new breakthrough for LEDs? It would be cool to have LED lights over the tank someday. http://news.yahoo.com/s/space/200510...ndoflightbulbs Brian
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Currently redesigning my 90 gallon tank system to support coral and invertebrate breeding. Click on my red house to see the thread with the progress. Current Tank Info: 75 Gallon Reef with 29 gal sump and 8 gal Clownfish species tank |
10/22/2005, 11:36 AM | #273 |
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Not old news but I'm not sure about the claim that they emit twice the light of a 60 watt bulb. Does that mean that if you have 60watts worth of LED's they would shine twice as bright as a 60 watt incandescent? It takes a ton of LED's right now to add up to a 60 watts of current draw, so the cost would still be prohibitive. I think the main advantage they are pointing out is that the LED produces a true white light. Up to now you had to combine red, green and blue LED's to get white light.
Of course, for aquarium use we would need to know the spectral output of the white source. The good point is that it is fairly easy to supplement the spectral output using other colors of LED's. Anyway, I'll look at the article in the Journal of the ACS and see what the big news is. I wouldn't go trading in those MH or T-5 quite yet. You'll notice that the DOE is talking about LED lights saving energy in 2025.
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"Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation" Tom Current Tank Info: 130 Now out of service and a 29 |
10/22/2005, 12:03 PM | #274 | |
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Quote:
Brian
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Currently redesigning my 90 gallon tank system to support coral and invertebrate breeding. Click on my red house to see the thread with the progress. Current Tank Info: 75 Gallon Reef with 29 gal sump and 8 gal Clownfish species tank |
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10/22/2005, 08:35 PM | #275 |
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watts
WaterKeeper,
I am setting up a 37 gal cube. I eventually would like a nice mixed reef tank. Including a clam. Should I go with a 250 MH or a 150 MH. I really enjoyed reading your post. The depth of this tank is 21.5". Thanks for your help. |
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