Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?

[KRavEN]

I was searching about for some PT4115 chip ideas since I have about 20 of the dealextreme drivers on-hand and found these:

https://github.com/danheidel/Big-LED-Controller-Board
https://github.com/danheidel/PT4115-Breakout

The Big LED Controller Board looks very interesting and similar to Typhon since it has the drivers onboard.

I couldn't find any blog or forum posts about Dan's projects but it looks to me like the breakout is a 3 channel PT4115 based driver controlled by a PIC. Second looks to by atmega controlled and PT4115 drivers but couldn't tell if it had LCD support, temp, RTC, etc...

[Spuzzum]

Originally Posted by davidpesce

Spuzzum - if you have to modify the code like this, you are just running and older version of the Button library. If you update to the latest version, it will work.

Thanks davidpesce.. I had grabbed all the latest libraries, but my compiler environment's in linux.. thinking that's the issue. My version of Arduino is 0023, and my Button Library is dated Dec. 07, 2011.

Using just "PULLDOWN" would continually error out, so I looked at the "Button.cpp".

/*
|| @description
|| | Set pin LOW as default
|| #
*/
void Button::pulldown(void)
{
  mode = BUTTON_PULLDOWN;
}

I saw the "BUTTON_PULLDOWN", so tried it.. it worked. As I say, I chalk it up to the linux environment.. it's not as forgiving. But more than likely, the base system libraries for the compilers is the culprit. This isn't the first script that was written in Windows, that needed slight alterations to compile in linux.

[JarekS]

Question for the smart folks here. Would this relay work with typhoon to turn on fans?
http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/relay-plug
And than another question that just popped into my head. I'm using two (pin 1 and 2) 10v pins for dimming, i'm not really sure if this is possible, but is there a simple relay that would sense that there is voltage on the same pins 1 and 2 on the 5 volt side and close to turn on fan? That way there is no programing needed or anything. That way if the lights on pin 1 are on than the fan is on (pin 1 is turned on 30 min earlier than pin 2)
Thanks for any insigts

Jarek

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Originally Posted by JarekS

Question for the smart folks here. Would this relay work with typhoon to turn on fans?
http://shop.moderndevice.com/products/relay-plug
And than another question that just popped into my head. I'm using two (pin 1 and 2) 10v pins for dimming, i'm not really sure if this is possible, but is there a simple relay that would sense that there is voltage on the same pins 1 and 2 on the 5 volt side and close to turn on fan? That way there is no programing needed or anything. That way if the lights on pin 1 are on than the fan is on (pin 1 is turned on 30 min earlier than pin 2)
Thanks for any insigts

Jarek

I'm not sure about that relay board. It looks like it's designed to work with the jee plugs, which are more or less compatible with Arduino hardware but only if you have the required pins available. It looks like it works on the single digital and analog pins on the jee plug, which you could hack to two free PWM pins if you're only using two.

On your second question - that won't work. The 5v pins will have a PWM signal on them, so at partial dimming settings (anything less than 100%) you'll fry the relays by slamming them on and off at 400hz.

[mm.reefs]

Originally Posted by der_wille_zur_macht

I'm not sure about that relay board. It looks like it's designed to work with the jee plugs, which are more or less compatible with Arduino hardware but only if you have the required pins available. It looks like it works on the single digital and analog pins on the jee plug, which you could hack to two free PWM pins if you're only using two.

On your second question - that won't work. The 5v pins will have a PWM signal on them, so at partial dimming settings (anything less than 100%) you'll fry the relays by slamming them on and off at 400hz.

Jarek mentioned he is using channels 1 and 2 for dimming, so if he is not using channel 3 or 4, he can hook one of these to one of the mentioned 5v relays, making sure he use the 5v output and setting fade to cero to avoid PWM.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Indeed yes - but even then I'd want to hack the firmware to use those channels only as on/off to prevent the danger of accidentally frying the relays by enabling some dimming percentage.

[SchnitzelReef]

Man i wish i knew what u guys were talking about..lol this is so cool! and ive been looking all around for something just like this..gunna be building a DIY LED kit for my tank soon. You should build this and sell it..put it on ebay or something...i bet you alot of people would buy this! simple cheap and easy to use LED controller! cant beat it...I looked thru a lot of the pages and i still cant figure out if there was a parts list..can someone help out a noob? im pretty good at building and fixing things, but computers are my weakness! thanks for any help...

[der_wille_zur_macht]

The design documentation is all at the google code site, in the svn repo:

http://code.google.com/p/typhon-reef...dware%2Ftyphon

I'm glad you think it's a cool project. The real goal of the project wasn't to put something on a shelf that could be bought though, it was to encourage/help people who wanted to build it themselves.

[SchnitzelReef]

thanks for your help but when i click on the link and click on hardware this is all i see: This file is not plain text (only UTF-8 and Latin-1 text encodings are currently supported). not sure what to do?

[der_wille_zur_macht]

There are three files - brd and sch are the EAGLE board and schematic files, respectively. The BOM file is the bill of materials. If you hit the link I posted above you should see those three files on the right. Click on any one of them and you'll get the page for that file. look towards the lower right for a link that says "view raw file" then right click and do a "save as" to download the file.

[JarekS]

Originally Posted by mm.reefs

Jarek mentioned he is using channels 1 and 2 for dimming, so if he is not using channel 3 or 4, he can hook one of these to one of the mentioned 5v relays, making sure he use the 5v output and setting fade to cero to avoid PWM.

Sweet thanks!
Correct I do not use channel 3 or 4 for anything. This will be intermediate solution. Until I learn enough to be able to change code and feel good about it.
After

[Loonytic]

Thank you DWZM and everyone else for all the work you've put into this project. I've been browsing this forum for quite a while, but this is my first post. I must say, it's quite annoying when folks just read the last page of a thread, and ask rediculous questions that have been thoroughly answered and explained throughout the discussion, instead of starting from the beginning. That may be a bit rude for my first post, but I needed to get that off my chest. :-) Can't wait to BUILD my own Typhon.

If anyone has a v1.0 PCB that they are willing to part with, please contact me. :-) Or I can just build one on a prototype board.

Thanks again, everyone!

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I am working (again) on a revision of the hardware and would love to get some feedback before I proceed. I know I've asked several of these questions before but I never got a ton of feedback so please let me know what you think even if you're just lurking on the thread.

1) How important are more PWM outputs? Would it be worth adding a few components to get 6 output channels instead of 4?
2) How important is it to have BOTH 5v and 10v available on the end product? Would people be OK with one set of output headers? You'd make a decision while you built it to go either 5v or 10v and switching back and forth would entail getting the soldering iron out. Or, do people like the design as-is where there's a 5v and a 10v header for each channel, even if you're only typically using one or the other?
3) Is everyone else sick of the .1" pin headers currently used for the PWM outputs? I hate them. There aren't any easily-available sockets to plug on to them. I'm pretty set on switching to screw terminals, but this would mean a lot more area taken up on the board as screw terminals are inherently larger (and more expensive). Or maybe JST headers or something.
4) I've also gotten feedback that people don't like the fact that the buttons are not "on level" with the LCD, making it hard to put into an enclosure. Anyone have specific feedback on this, or can anyone confirm or deny this? A possible solution might involve soldering the LCD directly to the PCB instead of using pin headers to make it removable. Would that upset anyone?

Any other changes to the hardware that people would like to see?

[Cipher43]

Originally Posted by der_wille_zur_macht

I am working (again) on a revision of the hardware and would love to get some feedback before I proceed. I know I've asked several of these questions before but I never got a ton of feedback so please let me know what you think even if you're just lurking on the thread.

1) How important are more PWM outputs? Would it be worth adding a few components to get 6 output channels instead of 4?
2) How important is it to have BOTH 5v and 10v available on the end product? Would people be OK with one set of output headers? You'd make a decision while you built it to go either 5v or 10v and switching back and forth would entail getting the soldering iron out. Or, do people like the design as-is where there's a 5v and a 10v header for each channel, even if you're only typically using one or the other?
3) Is everyone else sick of the .1" pin headers currently used for the PWM outputs? I hate them. There aren't any easily-available sockets to plug on to them. I'm pretty set on switching to screw terminals, but this would mean a lot more area taken up on the board as screw terminals are inherently larger (and more expensive). Or maybe JST headers or something.
4) I've also gotten feedback that people don't like the fact that the buttons are not "on level" with the LCD, making it hard to put into an enclosure. Anyone have specific feedback on this, or can anyone confirm or deny this? A possible solution might involve soldering the LCD directly to the PCB instead of using pin headers to make it removable. Would that upset anyone?

Any other changes to the hardware that people would like to see?

1) I think the 6 channels would be better but is it possible without major problems

2) If it were up to me I would make it so you only have the one type and be able to switch with alittle solder.

3) Those pins drive me nuts too. I feel like they would break if you look at them the wrong way when you go to connect them. Plus the screw terminals would be nicer for easy connecting.

4) I can see why the complaints are there because I'm trying to build a box for one right now and its not easy with those buttons below the level. I wouldnt mind soldering it in but what ever you make I will build most likely.


Only other thing I would like to see is have it work with the HLG drivers.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Originally Posted by Cipher43

Only other thing I would like to see is have it work with the HLG drivers.

This is the golden ticket, I think. I have some ideas but it's going to be tough to prototype because I don't own an HLG (or any off the shelf drivers for that matter). I'm definitely going to need someone to help me prototype if there's a huge demand for HLG compatibility. I'm pretty confident my new design will work with ELNs, Inventronics, and DIY drivers but I'll probably still want some testers for those as well.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Originally Posted by Cipher43

1) I think the 6 channels would be better but is it possible without major problems

It won't cause major problems, but it will cause a lack of "backwards compatibility" in that the hardware would be different enough that sketches designed for the old version would have to be reworked for the new hardware. I don't expect this will be a huge problem but it might introduce some confusion.

From a hardware perspective it's easy. Just slap a few more components on the board.

[Loonytic]

Since I am using Meanwell drivers, I really only need the 10v PWM outputs. I only have 4 drivers, but I only plan to use 3 channels though, unless I decide to try to use one channel to control a relayed outlet to control one powerhead. I am just a little put-off by the buttons not being flush with the LCD, but I plan to migrate them via wires t integrate them into the place that I plan to mount the LCD. As far as headers go, I have some old r/c servos and receivers I plan to pillage the connectors from.

My AVR, LCD, and USB bub (Edit: just checked my box, my other components arrived, still waiting for AVR, LCD, and BUB) arrived yesterday, still waiting on the rest. Oh, and I still need a PCB, or I'll just use a prototype board. Surely someone out there still has a left over? Just finished building my fixture yesterday morning, along with fixing all of the shorts (who knew the star backings would find a way to touch my wire in so many places? ) just need to get my controller together!

[TheFishMan65]

I don't see a problem with the HLG. Isn't one of the options a 10v PWM signal. The other two are a 0-10 analog signal and just a pot (100K IIRC).

2) I see no problem building for 5 or 10 volt signals - people know what the driver needs.
1) 4/6 PWMs doesn't really affect me
3) I would have to look at the header more carefully. I thought they were a standard size for ribbon cable - which I thought was a good idea.
4) If they aren't level it would be nice if it could be done.

[Cipher43]

Originally Posted by TheFishMan65

I don't see a problem with the HLG. Isn't one of the options a 10v PWM signal. The other two are a 0-10 analog signal and just a pot (100K IIRC).

2) I see no problem building for 5 or 10 volt signals - people know what the driver needs.
1) 4/6 PWMs doesn't really affect me
3) I would have to look at the header more carefully. I thought they were a standard size for ribbon cable - which I thought was a good idea.
4) If they aren't level it would be nice if it could be done.

Main reason for the HLG comment is I know the old version doesnt work with them because of "a floating signal issue" I believe is what it was called.

here is the thread they have been talking about it in http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2128042

[JarekS]

Originally Posted by der_wille_zur_macht

I am working (again) on a revision of the hardware and would love to get some feedback before I proceed. I know I've asked several of these questions before but I never got a ton of feedback so please let me know what you think even if you're just lurking on the thread.

1) How important are more PWM outputs? Would it be worth adding a few components to get 6 output channels instead of 4?
2) How important is it to have BOTH 5v and 10v available on the end product? Would people be OK with one set of output headers? You'd make a decision while you built it to go either 5v or 10v and switching back and forth would entail getting the soldering iron out. Or, do people like the design as-is where there's a 5v and a 10v header for each channel, even if you're only typically using one or the other?
3) Is everyone else sick of the .1" pin headers currently used for the PWM outputs? I hate them. There aren't any easily-available sockets to plug on to them. I'm pretty set on switching to screw terminals, but this would mean a lot more area taken up on the board as screw terminals are inherently larger (and more expensive). Or maybe JST headers or something.
4) I've also gotten feedback that people don't like the fact that the buttons are not "on level" with the LCD, making it hard to put into an enclosure. Anyone have specific feedback on this, or can anyone confirm or deny this? A possible solution might involve soldering the LCD directly to the PCB instead of using pin headers to make it removable. Would that upset anyone?

Any other changes to the hardware that people would like to see?

As a owner of nano tank (RSM 130) my opinion is little different,

1. Do not need more PWM, only using 2, 6 would be waste of space
2. I like having both, since i plan on using the 5v pin without pwm signal to turn on relay for fan. The 10v pins are in use for 2 ELN drivers
3. I'm going to remove the 90 degree pins and install straight pins facing down so i can install this board in the specific spot on my hood which is just about the size of the board, all the extra width of 90 deg pins plus connectors is making it just a tad too big. So i guess in my instance bigger is not better.
4. Not a deal breaker, still have not found buttons , but maybe there are longer buttons that would be flush ?

How about converting one PWM into driving a buckpuck for moon lights?

[saltydogaqua]

Use 19mm tactile switches or above....those work perfectly.

[2Quills]

I too would love to see a newer version of the controller that is compatible with any of the newer Meanwell drivers that now offer the 3 in 1 dimming. They may not be the the Majority of drivers out there just yet but they may very well be here in the near future. I think we're kind of headed in that direction already judging by the most recent builds that I've seen in the last year or so.

1.) For someone like me I'd love to see a 6 channel controller. 4 channels for my display lighting and 2 channels to run my Scrubber lights. It would be nice to have that added flexibility in one controller.

2.) I could care less about the 5v channels, personally. But I do see how they could still be useful to some folks.

3.) I hate the pin headers. Please, please go with terminals.

4.) Eh, not a deal breaker for me either but I've also looked around for some good buttons that might work well for the current set up and still haven't really found anything that catches my eye. A different layout might not be such a bad idea. The buttons that are on the Typhon, itself...do they make any that are shorter (stubbier)? I know they are fairly durable but something about the way they wobble/wiggle when I push them bothers me a little. Just curious.

[pandimus]

Originally Posted by der_wille_zur_macht

I am working (again) on a revision of the hardware and would love to get some feedback before I proceed. I know I've asked several of these questions before but I never got a ton of feedback so please let me know what you think even if you're just lurking on the thread.

1) How important are more PWM outputs? Would it be worth adding a few components to get 6 output channels instead of 4?
2) How important is it to have BOTH 5v and 10v available on the end product? Would people be OK with one set of output headers? You'd make a decision while you built it to go either 5v or 10v and switching back and forth would entail getting the soldering iron out. Or, do people like the design as-is where there's a 5v and a 10v header for each channel, even if you're only typically using one or the other?
3) Is everyone else sick of the .1" pin headers currently used for the PWM outputs? I hate them. There aren't any easily-available sockets to plug on to them. I'm pretty set on switching to screw terminals, but this would mean a lot more area taken up on the board as screw terminals are inherently larger (and more expensive). Or maybe JST headers or something.
4) I've also gotten feedback that people don't like the fact that the buttons are not "on level" with the LCD, making it hard to put into an enclosure. Anyone have specific feedback on this, or can anyone confirm or deny this? A possible solution might involve soldering the LCD directly to the PCB instead of using pin headers to make it removable. Would that upset anyone?

Any other changes to the hardware that people would like to see?

1)Sigh.. i was just about to order parts... I think im just gonna have to build two of these. 6 channels would be great, considering i was going to make 4 pendants of white led's. i would have had to control the outsides, the insides, the blues. and then moonlights, add two more, i can then control my refugium lights also.
2) Dont think this matters. Most people wont be switching out drivers. So just keeping one option standard and if you want to change just solder.
3)havent build mine, but the screw type seem more convienient.
4)I was thinking about remote mounting my lcd, so this would probably not matter as much to me.

[pandimus]

ON a side not, what about IR? Controlling via remote would be kinda practical. Hot keys for turning lights on, off and presets.. Just throwing this out there, not sure how hard to implement.

[der_wille_zur_macht]

Originally Posted by 2Quills

I too would love to see a newer version of the controller that is compatible with any of the newer Meanwell drivers that now offer the 3 in 1 dimming. They may not be the the Majority of drivers out there just yet but they may very well be here in the near future. I think we're kind of headed in that direction already judging by the most recent builds that I've seen in the last year or so.

I'm hoping you can be one of the testers for those drivers.

4.) Eh, not a deal breaker for me either but I've also looked around for some good buttons that might work well for the current set up and still haven't really found anything that catches my eye. A different layout might not be such a bad idea. The buttons that are on the Typhon, itself...do they make any that are shorter (stubbier)? I know they are fairly durable but something about the way they wobble/wiggle when I push them bothers me a little. Just curious.

There are lots of buttons compatible with the layout on the board. If you look at the datasheet for the "official" part in the BOM, you'll see that you can change one or two characters in the part number to get different button lengths. I spec'd the longest length that Mouser normally has in stock because the buttons were so much lower than the LCD. If you want stubby buttons you should be able to get them, no problem.

Originally Posted by pandimus

1)Sigh.. i was just about to order parts...

My development cycle is very long, so don't hold your breath. It might be months before I'm comfortable "releasing" this new version.

Originally Posted by pandimus

ON a side not, what about IR? Controlling via remote would be kinda practical. Hot keys for turning lights on, off and presets.. Just throwing this out there, not sure how hard to implement.

IR is very easy to implement. We have it as "standard" on the Hydra project so we could even just rip off the code. The hitch is, in my mind, that it requires yet another piece of hardware (the remote) and I dunno about any of you, but I have trouble keeping track of the remotes I already have in my living room. Still, it would only add a buck or two to the cost of the hardware to put IR on the board. We could leave the buttons on as well and let people choose which to use.