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Unread 04/29/2011, 09:49 PM   #3901
lostfishtosink
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30 gallon, 10 gallon sump/fuge

Pair of clowns (not sure what kind yet) between skunk and maroon.
Flame angelfish
Mandarin dragonet (I'll buy pods, I'll put them in the fuge if needed, i'll try to get it on pellets for 3 months while leaving it alone to feed it pods.. I'm in love)

That's honestly it. Shrimp/snails for my CuC.


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Unread 04/30/2011, 04:29 AM   #3902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1mbrews8 View Post

thanks! i cant figure out how to quote the whole thing, so this will have to do! :O)
So obviously, i put the cuc (snails) in first, but then the (shrimp, gobys, jawfish {dont know if you are considering them "fish"}) then anthias - or the anthias totally first?

Ah, please do not use red as it is difficult for me. Questions in black, my answers in Magenta to differentiate. To quote, simply click on the Quote button at the bottom of the post you wish to quote

also, i have 2 10g for QT, will the 9-10 anthias all fit (5 each), or should i do 2 "batches" in the 2 tanks (so maybe 3 in one, 3 in the other for a month, then put them in DT, and then get 6 more to QT)?? Thanks again!

Well, 10g tanks are a little difficult for anthias as they are such small tanks, but remember to check water condition, and specifically ammonia. 3 in a tank would be best rather than all

mike



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Unread 04/30/2011, 08:25 PM   #3903
malawinovice
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Do I have room for one more fish?

75 reef with 20 sump

two ocs clowns
orchid dotty
flame angel
hippo tang
Lepard Wrasse
Melanaris Wrasse

was looking at kole tang and/or a yellow coris wrasse?
or some chromis trio?


thanks


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Unread 04/30/2011, 09:29 PM   #3904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malawinovice View Post
Do I have room for one more fish?

75 reef with 20 sump

two ocs clowns
orchid dotty
flame angel
hippo tang Minimum tank size for this fish is 240 gallons
Lepard Wrasse
Melanaris Wrasse

was looking at kole tang and/or a yellow coris wrasse?
or some chromis trio?

If you take back the hepatus tang, you could have a smallish fish; however your leopard wrasse requires a mature tank. How old is your tank?


thanks



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Unread 04/30/2011, 09:31 PM   #3905
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tank is two years old in the 75 gallon.


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Unread 05/01/2011, 05:31 AM   #3906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malawinovice View Post
tank is two years old in the 75 gallon.
In that case the leopard wrasse should be fine as long as you do not introduce any more copepod eaters.


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Unread 05/01/2011, 08:50 AM   #3907
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10 Gallon starter tank. Filter that came with tank. Filled with water 8 days ago and 4 lbs of rock / gravel. Used water purifying solution on water before adding, added nutrafin cycle with original fill.

Yesterday added another 2 lbs of rock / gravel, 2 plastic plants, and a rock / cave thing.

Should I wait another few days before adding fish (I had to put my arms in the tank quite a bit to add the stuff yesterday), or would it be ok to add some hardy fish today?

It sounds like Zebra Danios are a good hardy fish to start with and are non aggresive, is it ok just to add 2 of those? I've also read they're schooling and like to be in groups of 4, but I need to go through the nitrogen cycle and 4 would be too many for a 10 gallon tank to cycle right?

Appreciate any thoughts. Sorry if this wasn't the best thread to post this.

ETA, water temperature is 26 right now, is that a good temperature for Zebra Danios?


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Unread 05/01/2011, 09:15 AM   #3908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snikelfritz View Post
10 Gallon starter tank. Filter that came with tank. Filled with water 8 days ago and 4 lbs of rock / gravel. Used water purifying solution on water before adding, added nutrafin cycle with original fill.

Yesterday added another 2 lbs of rock / gravel, 2 plastic plants, and a rock / cave thing.

Should I wait another few days before adding fish (I had to put my arms in the tank quite a bit to add the stuff yesterday), or would it be ok to add some hardy fish today?

It sounds like Zebra Danios are a good hardy fish to start with and are non aggresive, is it ok just to add 2 of those? I've also read they're schooling and like to be in groups of 4, but I need to go through the nitrogen cycle and 4 would be too many for a 10 gallon tank to cycle right?

Appreciate any thoughts. Sorry if this wasn't the best thread to post this.

ETA, water temperature is 26 right now, is that a good temperature for Zebra Danios?
Welcome to Reef Central. There seems to be a bit of confusion here. Zebra Danios are fresh water fish and this is a salt water thread. I have kept fresh water since 1957 so I know about those too. I would suggest you learn to test your water first as that will be essential going foward. But you have to decide which direction you are going: salt or fresh water.


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Unread 05/01/2011, 09:27 PM   #3909
Kzv
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I'm planning to setup a 20 gallon and this is what I got listed so far.

20 gal tank
Aqueon 950 powerhead
Skimmer ( not sure which brand yet )
Live Rock ( if I'm correct about 20lbs )
API Saltwater Test kit
Hydrometer
Oceanic Natural Sea Salt Mix

ummm that's about all I can think of right now. I'm planning to start of
with only 1 clown fish to see how that goes, but other than that
any recommendations is appreciated. Thanks



Last edited by Kzv; 05/01/2011 at 09:38 PM.
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Unread 05/01/2011, 10:27 PM   #3910
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Possible fish list, feedback appreciated

Hi everyone, I'm new to the hobby and I'm taking my time getting set up and ready to go. My tank details are in the signature, but for easy reference and a more complete description:

150 gallon Deep Blue reef ready (48 inches long, 24 inches wide, 30 inches deep)
ProFlex Model 4 Sump (with refugium)
JBJ 500 W Titanium Heater
Rio Hyperflow 32 Pump (1920 GPH)
2 Korallia Evolution Power Heads (1400 GPH)
Eshopps In-sump Protein Skimmer 150
3 AquaIllumination Sol Super Blue LEDs
225 pounds of rock
2 inch deep sand bed

I'll be putting together a reef system with fish, and I've been poring over various resources (predominantly Scott Michael's PocketExpert Reef Aquarium Fishes) to determine what fish I'm interested in. I have a preliminary list, and I wanted to get some expert feedback.

Please Note: This is a list of everything that I'm potentially interested in, not what I'm actually planning on putting in the tank! I understand that to get everything on this list I'd need a 500+ gallon setup.

I've done some initial research on the species on this list, but I'd really appreciate further insight into which of these species can be housed together, whether any of them are totally inappropriate for my proposed tank, and any further thoughts, ideas or experience any of you have with them, as well as whether the preliminary notes I've made regarding max size, price and details are correct or incorrect.

Green Mandarin
Max Size: 3.1 inches
Cost: <$30
Desired Number: 2 (mated pair)
Special Notes: Requires a well established aquarium with plenty of live rock, a refugium and substantial copepod population for feeding purposes. Requires some open sand surfaces. Does not do well with aggressive anenomes.

I know that this is not a simple fish, and I have no plans to purchase until the tank is very well established and the refugium is producing ample 'pods. I wanted to include it on this list because it's something I definitely want in the future, and I don't want to inadvertently purchase something early on that will end up being non-compatible.

Blue Spotted Jawfish
Max Size: 3.9 inches
Cost: >$100
Desired Number: 1 (or possibly a mated pair)
Special Notes: Requires 3-4 inches of sand depth as well as building materials for a burrow. Noted jumper; requires a tight fitting lid.

This is another fish that is very high on my list; I find the appearance and personality of these guys very engaging.

Blue, Green or Purple Chromis (Damselfish)

Max Size: 3-5 inches depending on species
Cost: starting around $5
Desired Number: shoal of 6
Special Notes: Easy to keep, pretty and active. These fish do better in small groups (6 or so). The Blue Chromis are the largest; they tend to become paler in a brightly lit tank. Purple Chromis are the smallest and prettiest, but tend to dull when adult.

Clownfish (pair)
Max Size: 4 inches (Percula or Ocellaris)
Cost: $15 and up depending on morph. Pairs can range into the hundreds of dollars.
Desired Number: 2
Special Notes: Will host an anemone (or similar looking coral). Ocellaris tend to be more aggressive toward conspecifics. Substantial behavioral variation across species; do research on individual morphs to avoid potential aggression issues.

Brown Scopas Tang
Max Size: 8 inches
Cost: $30
Desired Number: 1
Special Notes: One of the more effective algae cleansers available. Tangs tend towards problematic behavior and delicacy, though I have read mostly positive things about the Scopas. This is one that I'm a little ambivalent about. Thoughts?

Bartlett’s Anthias
Max Size: 3.5 inches
Cost: ~$40
Desired Number: Single, pair or shoal
Special Notes: May be aggressive. May jump if stressed.

Yellow Assessor
Max Size: 2 inches
Cost: $50-$100
Desired Number: 1
Special Notes: Requires a peaceful tank setup. Swims upside down in crevasses and caves.

Pajama Cardinalfish
Max Size: 3.5 inches
Cost: $20
Desired Number: 1-3
Special Notes: May pose a danger to small ornamental crustaceans.

Azure Demoiselle
Max Size: 3 inches
Cost: <$10
Desired Number: 1-2
Special Notes: Well behaved and highly regarded. May be aggressive to other damsels; if multiple Azures are to be included, introduce them all at once.

Flasher Wrasse
(any paracheilinus species)
Max Size: 2.5 to 3.5 inches
Cost: ~$50
Desired Number: 1 (or small harem)
Special Notes: Beautiful and peaceful, tend to do better in a small group (one male, multiple females).

Lawnmower Blennies
Max Size: 5.5 inches
Cost: $20
Desired Number: 1
Special Notes: May eventually become territorial. Potentially troublesome with very small invertebrates.

Shrimp Gobie
(Randall’s or Wheeler’s)
Max Size: 3.1 to 3.5 inches
Cost: ~$50
Desired Number: 1
Special Notes: Shares a symbiotic relationship with pistol shrimp; the shrimp will regularly guard the burrow, but will tag along with the goby on outings. While doing so, the shrimp will leave one antennae resting on the goby; if the goby spots danger, it will slap the shrimp with its tail, and they will retreat to the burrow.

Those are the species that I'm currently interested in; out of all of them, the (eventual) green mandarin and blue spotted jawfish are definitely highest on my list. Out of the rest, what should I consider?

Thanks in advance, and please accept my apologies for the monstrously long post; I really want to do this all right.


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Unread 05/02/2011, 05:02 AM   #3911
snorvich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kzv View Post
I'm planning to setup a 20 gallon and this is what I got listed so far.

20 gal tank
Aqueon 950 powerhead
Skimmer ( not sure which brand yet )
Live Rock ( if I'm correct about 20lbs )
API Saltwater Test kit
Hydrometer I strongly recommend using a refractometer for best results going forward
Oceanic Natural Sea Salt Mix

ummm that's about all I can think of right now. I'm planning to start of
with only 1 clown fish to see how that goes, but other than that
any recommendations is appreciated. Thanks
I also recommend getting test kits and learning how to use them. And WELCOME TO REEF CENTRAL!


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Unread 05/02/2011, 05:16 AM   #3912
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Castaign View Post
Hi everyone, I'm new to the hobby and I'm taking my time getting set up and ready to go. My tank details are in the signature, but for easy reference and a more complete description:

150 gallon Deep Blue reef ready (48 inches long, 24 inches wide, 30 inches deep)
ProFlex Model 4 Sump (with refugium)
JBJ 500 W Titanium Heater I always strongly suggest running any heater off a Ranco controller or equivalent. When heaters break the usually fail in the control mechanism which can be a very expensive livestock lesson
Rio Hyperflow 32 Pump (1920 GPH)
2 Korallia Evolution Power Heads (1400 GPH)
Eshopps In-sump Protein Skimmer 150
3 AquaIllumination Sol Super Blue LEDs
225 pounds of rock
2 inch deep sand bed

I'll be putting together a reef system with fish, and I've been poring over various resources (predominantly Scott Michael's PocketExpert Reef Aquarium Fishes) to determine what fish I'm interested in. I have a preliminary list, and I wanted to get some expert feedback.

Please Note: This is a list of everything that I'm potentially interested in, not what I'm actually planning on putting in the tank! I understand that to get everything on this list I'd need a 500+ gallon setup.

I've done some initial research on the species on this list, but I'd really appreciate further insight into which of these species can be housed together, whether any of them are totally inappropriate for my proposed tank, and any further thoughts, ideas or experience any of you have with them, as well as whether the preliminary notes I've made regarding max size, price and details are correct or incorrect.

Green Mandarin
Max Size: 3.1 inches
Cost: <$30
Desired Number: 2 (mated pair)
Special Notes: Requires a well established aquarium with plenty of live rock, a refugium and substantial copepod population for feeding purposes. Requires some open sand surfaces. Does not do well with aggressive anenomes.

I love these fish and they are easy to care for IF and ONLY IF you have a large enough tank (you do) and ideally a refugium. But do not introduce copepod competitors

I know that this is not a simple fish, and I have no plans to purchase until the tank is very well established and the refugium is producing ample 'pods. I wanted to include it on this list because it's something I definitely want in the future, and I don't want to inadvertently purchase something early on that will end up being non-compatible.

Blue Spotted Jawfish
Max Size: 3.9 inches
Cost: >$100
Desired Number: 1 (or possibly a mated pair)
Special Notes: Requires 3-4 inches of sand depth as well as building materials for a burrow. Noted jumper; requires a tight fitting lid.

Pretty and personable but potentially aggressive towards shrimp. Also, since it is collected from cooler waters, requires cooler temperatures for long term success

This is another fish that is very high on my list; I find the appearance and personality of these guys very engaging.

Blue, Green or Purple Chromis (Damselfish)

Max Size: 3-5 inches depending on species
Cost: starting around $5
Desired Number: shoal of 6
Special Notes: Easy to keep, pretty and active. These fish do better in small groups (6 or so). The Blue Chromis are the largest; they tend to become paler in a brightly lit tank. Purple Chromis are the smallest and prettiest, but tend to dull when adult.

Chromis will shoal but often winnow their number down to one. If you want this look, consider anthias; but they require multiple feedings per day

Clownfish (pair)
Max Size: 4 inches (Percula or Ocellaris)
Cost: $15 and up depending on morph. Pairs can range into the hundreds of dollars.
Desired Number: 2
Special Notes: Will host an anemone (or similar looking coral). Ocellaris tend to be more aggressive toward conspecifics. Substantial behavioral variation across species; do research on individual morphs to avoid potential aggression issues.

Since you are starting out, best to use the terminology correctly. An anemone hosts the clowns, the clowns associate with the anemone. You need to get the correct anemone for your clowns as not all clown species associate with all anemones

Brown Scopas Tang
Max Size: 8 inches
Cost: $30
Desired Number: 1
Special Notes: One of the more effective algae cleansers available. Tangs tend towards problematic behavior and delicacy, though I have read mostly positive things about the Scopas. This is one that I'm a little ambivalent about. Thoughts?

I have no problem with this fish; I would lean more towards a chevron or tenneti tang

Bartlett’s Anthias
Max Size: 3.5 inches
Cost: ~$40
Desired Number: Single, pair or shoal
Special Notes: May be aggressive. May jump if stressed.

I love anthias but would suggest resplendant or carberryi instead of Barlett's but your choice is fine as well

Yellow Assessor
Max Size: 2 inches
Cost: $50-$100
Desired Number: 1
Special Notes: Requires a peaceful tank setup. Swims upside down in crevasses and caves.

Excellent choice, no issues

Pajama Cardinalfish
Max Size: 3.5 inches
Cost: $20
Desired Number: 1-3
Special Notes: May pose a danger to small ornamental crustaceans.

Yes, they eat shrimp

Azure Demoiselle
Max Size: 3 inches
Cost: <$10
Desired Number: 1-2
Special Notes: Well behaved and highly regarded. May be aggressive to other damsels; if multiple Azures are to be included, introduce them all at once.

Perhaps consider a gramma loretto instead; I am not big on damsels

Flasher Wrasse
(any paracheilinus species)
Max Size: 2.5 to 3.5 inches
Cost: ~$50
Desired Number: 1 (or small harem)
Special Notes: Beautiful and peaceful, tend to do better in a small group (one male, multiple females).

Excellent choice; I would opt for a harem of M+F+F

Lawnmower Blennies
Max Size: 5.5 inches
Cost: $20
Desired Number: 1
Special Notes: May eventually become territorial. Potentially troublesome with very small invertebrates.

There are other blennies that might be better

Shrimp Gobie
(Randall’s or Wheeler’s)
Max Size: 3.1 to 3.5 inches
Cost: ~$50
Desired Number: 1
Special Notes: Shares a symbiotic relationship with pistol shrimp; the shrimp will regularly guard the burrow, but will tag along with the goby on outings. While doing so, the shrimp will leave one antennae resting on the goby; if the goby spots danger, it will slap the shrimp with its tail, and they will retreat to the burrow.

Interesting to watch; requires sand bed

Those are the species that I'm currently interested in; out of all of them, the (eventual) green mandarin and blue spotted jawfish are definitely highest on my list. Out of the rest, what should I consider?

Thanks in advance, and please accept my apologies for the monstrously long post; I really want to do this all right.
Doing things right is why I staff this thread and why it is an expert thread not a discussion thread


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Unread 05/02/2011, 08:17 AM   #3913
Jake622
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My next 2 fish for my 400g FOWLR will be a niger trigger and a porcupine puffer. Can I QT them together?

Current fish include a pair of Maroon clowns, a picasso trigger and a Vlamingi tang.

Thanks!


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Unread 05/02/2011, 10:52 AM   #3914
Castaign
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Snorvich,

Thanks so much for the detailed answers; I greatly appreciate it!

After further research it looks to me like the Jawfish will have to be a no go, which is a shame. I find the species fascinating and endearing, but it really doesn't look like the average reef setup is well-suited to their long term survival.

A couple follow up questions on your post, if I may:

1) Instead of a Scopas, you recommend a Chevron or Tennentii - just to be clear, are we talking about the Hawaiian Bristletooth and Acanthurus tennenti? Why the preference? Also, it looks like both of those fish have a maximum length of 11-12 inches - is my tank big enough to provide swimming room for fish of that size?

2) Regarding the shrimp gobie, how deep of a sand bed do they require?

Thanks again, ReefCentral has already provided me with so much great information!


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Unread 05/02/2011, 12:48 PM   #3915
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120g mixed reef with 15~20g refugium.

Currently the only fish in the tank is a small, 1"-1.5", six-line wrasse. Would I be able to add another wrasse to the tank, such as a yellow coris or a carpenter's flasher or am I doomed to only having one wrasse as long as I have the six-line?

Thanks for the help!


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Current Tank Info: 200g "cube" lit with a single 250w Radium in a Hamilton Cozumel Sun pendant
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Unread 05/02/2011, 02:25 PM   #3916
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake622 View Post
My next 2 fish for my 400g FOWLR will be a niger trigger and a porcupine puffer. Can I QT them together?

Current fish include a pair of Maroon clowns, a picasso trigger and a Vlamingi tang.

Thanks!
I am always reluctant to quarantine two fish together unless they come from the same water source. What sized QT tank?



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Unread 05/02/2011, 02:36 PM   #3917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Castaign View Post
Snorvich,

Thanks so much for the detailed answers; I greatly appreciate it!

After further research it looks to me like the Jawfish will have to be a no go, which is a shame. I find the species fascinating and endearing, but it really doesn't look like the average reef setup is well-suited to their long term survival.

A couple follow up questions on your post, if I may:

1) Instead of a Scopas, you recommend a Chevron or Tennentii - just to be clear, are we talking about the Hawaiian Bristletooth and Acanthurus tennenti? Why the preference? Also, it looks like both of those fish have a maximum length of 11-12 inches - is my tank big enough to provide swimming room for fish of that size?

Descriptions below. For tangs, I always look for peaceful personality and ones that are not swimmers such as the naso literatus (or any other Naso tang)

2) Regarding the shrimp gobie, how deep of a sand bed do they require?

A couple of inches should be sufficient

Thanks again, ReefCentral has already provided me with so much great information!
The Chevron tang is one of the smallest and also one of the least active members of the surgeonfish group, but this doesn’t mean that it is a suitable choice for small aquariums. The aquarium must be large enough to fit plenty of rockwork as well as give the fish a lot of free space to swim around in. It is not advisable to house this species in an aquarium smaller than 75 gallons / 285 litres. In a smaller aquarium, it is difficult to provide the fish with sufficient amounts of accumulated detritus and naturally growing algae.

Acanthurus tennenti (Doubleband surgeonfish) has developed to live a life constantly searching for food at a steep reef slope, and this should be kept in mind when you set up its home. Give them plenty of room, at least 50 gallons for an adult. Doubleband surgeonfish dislike changes so you need to keep their environment quite stable. Organic levels should be kept as close to zero as possible and 25 ppm is the upper limit for nitrate. pH should be buffered and kept in the 8.0 – 8.4 range. Acanthurus tennenti prefer temperatures from the seventies to the low eighties F. Provide them with vigorous water movement and aeration.

Acanthurus tennenti (Doubleband surgeonfish) eats phytoplankton, detritus, plants and algae. Serve tiny portions spread over the whole day, put an algae stone in the aquarium or install an automatic feeder an set it to maximum amount of servings.



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Unread 05/02/2011, 02:38 PM   #3918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halcyonism View Post
120g mixed reef with 15~20g refugium.

Currently the only fish in the tank is a small, 1"-1.5", six-line wrasse. Would I be able to add another wrasse to the tank, such as a yellow coris or a carpenter's flasher or am I doomed to only having one wrasse as long as I have the six-line?

Thanks for the help!
Sixlines greatly limit the other fish you can add even in a 120 gallon tank. Fairy and flasher wrasses do not do well with them, I am unsure about the yellow coris wrasse.


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Unread 05/02/2011, 06:48 PM   #3919
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Hello,

110 gallon tall RR tank, 30 gallon sump with refugium

Want:
Swallowtail angelfish pair
Scopas tang or Purple Tang
Lyretail anthias M+F+F
2 or 3 false moorish idols

Thanks


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Unread 05/02/2011, 08:17 PM   #3920
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJT View Post
Hello,

110 gallon tall RR tank, 30 gallon sump with refugium

Want:
Swallowtail angelfish pair These fish are swimmers and may appear cramped in your sized tank
Scopas tang or Purple Tang One should be fine but I personally would suggest a Ctenochaetus tang such as a chevron
Lyretail anthias M+F+F I love anthias but would prefer resplendant or carberryi since they are less likely to change to male
2 or 3 false moorish idols You mean Heniochus? If so all must be introduced at the same time. Some of these are reef safe, others not.

Thanks



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Unread 05/02/2011, 08:27 PM   #3921
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Thank you


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Unread 05/02/2011, 08:33 PM   #3922
Kzv
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snorvich View Post
I also recommend getting test kits and learning how to use them. And WELCOME TO REEF CENTRAL!
thanks
well today I went to my LFS to check out what kind of LR they sell and i found 2 different kinds. 1) just regular LR 2) Purple LR. What's the difference between those 2?


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Unread 05/02/2011, 08:36 PM   #3923
snorvich
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thanks
well today I went to my LFS to check out what kind of LR they sell and i found 2 different kinds. 1) just regular LR 2) Purple LR. What's the difference between those 2?
"Purple" is coralline algae encrusted which is pretty and therefore costs more. The "regular" will eventually become encrusted if you have good lights, good chemistry, and a tad of patience.


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Unread 05/03/2011, 02:52 PM   #3924
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follow up on shy purple firefish

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Keep me posted. I have had all three kinds of firefish and did not notice a difference in attitude. Mine were always out unless they perceived a potential threat.
So the firefish was in quarantine for 4 weeks never came out of hiding except to feed. Yesterday i put him (the first fish) into the 29 gallon DT and he starts swimming around all happy in his new home. He would go into bolt hole when someone would walk by but then come right back out. I saw more of him yesterday than during the whole month in the 10 gallon QT. Strange.

Right now I have a pajama cardinal fish, a mellow guy, in the DT. I don't think he'll bother the firefish at all when I add him to the DT.

I'm thinking about getting a Royal Gramma too, but I don't know. I read they hid a lot too...


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Unread 05/03/2011, 03:50 PM   #3925
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Right now I have a pajama cardinal fish, a mellow guy, in the DT. I don't think he'll bother the firefish at all when I add him to the DT.

I'm thinking about getting a Royal Gramma too, but I don't know. I read they hid a lot too...
As a diver, I can tell you they like to hang out in a somewhat cryptic way, under over hangs, etc. So, if you are hoping for "out and about", a Royal Gramma may not be what you are looking for.


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