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Unread 07/26/2011, 10:32 PM   #126
Aquarist007
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[QUOTE=Finsky;19073294]I have been dosing Seachem Reef Carbonate and it has helped level out my pH 8.0-8.4 since I started using it as Seachem thought I might have more bi-carbonate alkalinity than carbonate alkalinity.

I have to say they were right.

I am going to start dosing Tropic Science Marine-Max after each weekly water change when it arrives on Friday from Drs Foster and Smith.

Back to carbon dosing. I would not want to try anything which might jepardize our Doree and her younger sister Doreena and their friends?[/QUOTE

With carbon dosing you add a source of carbon which increases the growth of bacteria in the tank, The bacteria in turn consume nitrates and phosphates. Corals consume the bacteria.
You can add a liquid carbon source such as vodka to the tank which is a little more problematic or setup a phosban reactor with biopellets in them. The biopellets provide a media for the bacteria and the bacteria are introduced to the tank in a more controlled fashion via flow
In each cases you end up with crystal clear water and corals that colour up and look fantastic.
Because the bacteria is consuming nitrates and phosphates then you can feed alot more to your corals and fish
I suggested in your case because of all those extra additives you are adding.
IMO they are not necessary and could cause more problems with the build up of ammonia or nitrates to your fish then supplementing them along with carbon dosing,
If you want me to list a couple of threads on carbon dosing let me know


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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken

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Unread 07/27/2011, 04:23 AM   #127
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Finsky, sounds like you got some real healthy fish there. Any time fish are breeding is a sign they are in the best health they could be in and is the condition they should always be in.


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Unread 07/27/2011, 08:39 PM   #128
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I tend to agree since I have been keeping this pair of clowns 4 1/2 years in my five year old tank.

I have switched to Seachem Reef Salt which does not leave a brown residue and give a pH of 7.6 at 35ppt salinity like Reef Crystals.

I measured my 18 gallon batch of Reef Salt tonight and the pH was 8.19 with no brown residue after 24 hours with two 400 gph powerheads in a Rubbermaid Brute.

Additionally, I have an excellent protein skimmer rated for up to a 250 gallon tank. It is the Aqua-Medic Turboflotor Multi-1000 which collects about about 1/2" to 1" of "black" water each 24 hours. This black water is much more than the smaller doses of liquid coral food I feed. Of course I have the two Rena XP4 canisters with a Chemi-Pure Grande in the top of basket out of the four baskets per canister. Two middle baskets have Eheim Efisubstrate Pro and the bottom baskets have two course and then two fine sponges. I rinse the sponges and Efisubstrate in aquarium water. I clean the skimmer collection cup daily. What I really think makes my tank click is the two Koralia Hydor 8's at 3,250 gph, one in the left upper front aiming to the back opposite corner and one in the right position and aiming across the same way. I really think this circlation with 185 lbs of live rock gives a lot of biological filstration.

I did speak with Boyd enterprises peronally on the phone and I am comfortable using the Chemi-Pure after we talked about the articles blaming ick on charcoal. We both agree it was stress from different areas. He told me their resin eliminates any bad effects charcoal might have on live stock in an aquarium concerning hold in the head disease.


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Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef - 250 lbs of live rock, Rena XP4, two Hydor Koralia 3250s, Aqua-Medic Tuboflotor multi 1000 skimmer - Two 60" Marineland Reef Capable LEDs - 8 1/2 years

Last edited by Finsky; 07/27/2011 at 08:42 PM. Reason: additional information
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Unread 10/20/2011, 09:34 PM   #129
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I feed my tank seaweed cut up into bite size pieces with scissors, freeze dried mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and bloodworms along with Ocean Nutrition One and Two flakes and pellets all soaked in Vita-Chem, Selcon, and Brightwell Vitamin- C.

After this has be consumed I dose with Kent Marine Phytoplex, Chromplex, Zooplex, and Microvert.

Every Sunday I feed my two six inch red rose bubble tips which just divided after two years as a 12 inch red rose bubble tip anemone, one six inch green bubble tip anemone, and a fourteen inch green bubble tip anemone razor clam which I buy by the one lb package sold by the Quinalt Tribe. I thaw and cut up into 1/2" pieces and freeze in a plast container which I then carve off a block to thaw and feed with a stick. I have had a pair of Tomato clowns for 4 1/2 years which regularly take care of a cluth of eggs on a weekly to semi-weekly basis. I have tried other sea food which was all very greasy and the bubble tips did not take well to these alhtough they wrap around the razor clam and suck it up. I them tear left over pieces into smaller tib bits for the fish.









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Finsky

Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef - 250 lbs of live rock, Rena XP4, two Hydor Koralia 3250s, Aqua-Medic Tuboflotor multi 1000 skimmer - Two 60" Marineland Reef Capable LEDs - 8 1/2 years
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Unread 02/28/2012, 12:51 PM   #130
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Hey guys/girls, I have been feeding ( im sure you have heard of it) rods food the original blend, and a few other of the rods food. Do you see anything at all in this food that could not be healthy for my reef fish, also I feed them new life spectrum flakes and pellets. Thank you all,


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Unread 02/28/2012, 01:47 PM   #131
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Hey guys/girls, I have been feeding ( im sure you have heard of it) rods food the original blend, and a few other of the rods food. Do you see anything at all in this food that could not be healthy for my reef fish, also I feed them new life spectrum flakes and pellets. Thank you all,


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Unread 03/10/2012, 09:49 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmr11driver View Post
Hey guys/girls, I have been feeding ( im sure you have heard of it) rods food the original blend, and a few other of the rods food. Do you see anything at all in this food that could not be healthy for my reef fish, also I feed them new life spectrum flakes and pellets. Thank you all,
Rods food is great however you need to introduce some fish oil.I would suggest soaking flake food with a capsule of Omega 3 Krill oil that you can buy at any pharmacy


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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken

Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock
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Unread 09/17/2012, 07:50 AM   #133
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Omega Three

Hello capn_hylinur:

The Omega 3 Krill Oil sounds like a very, very interest idea.

Have you noticed a difference when soaking food in the krill oil?

Is it harmful in any way?

Please let me know and I will get some.

Thank you,

Finsky


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Finsky

Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef - 250 lbs of live rock, Rena XP4, two Hydor Koralia 3250s, Aqua-Medic Tuboflotor multi 1000 skimmer - Two 60" Marineland Reef Capable LEDs - 8 1/2 years
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Unread 09/17/2012, 07:51 AM   #134
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....


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Finsky

Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef - 250 lbs of live rock, Rena XP4, two Hydor Koralia 3250s, Aqua-Medic Tuboflotor multi 1000 skimmer - Two 60" Marineland Reef Capable LEDs - 8 1/2 years

Last edited by Finsky; 09/17/2012 at 07:56 AM. Reason: Double posting error
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Unread 10/07/2012, 06:50 PM   #135
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i soak food in vitamarin-m a brightwell product i have kept a powderblue alive on it ,and a regal angel since i bought them 6 weeks ago.


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Unread 10/07/2012, 07:14 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finsky View Post
Hello capn_hylinur:

The Omega 3 Krill Oil sounds like a very, very interest idea.

Have you noticed a difference when soaking food in the krill oil?

Is it harmful in any way?

Please let me know and I will get some.

Thank you,

Finsky
not in the least. You can even take it too


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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken

Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock
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Unread 10/07/2012, 07:20 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by led stony View Post
i soak food in vitamarin-m a brightwell product i have kept a powderblue alive on it ,and a regal angel since i bought them 6 weeks ago.
Even tangs like the meaty foods too
Why try to make flake food healthy when you can feed them real sea food. My favorite is silver side minnow because the contain the guts where the beifical oils etc are


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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken

Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock
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Unread 10/08/2012, 05:07 AM   #138
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not in the least. You can even take it too
I do


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I used to get shocked when I put my hand in my tank. Then the electric eel went dead.

Current Tank Info: 100 gal reef set up in 1971
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Unread 12/13/2012, 08:51 PM   #139
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the role of nutrition on disease control for fish in an aquarium should NOT be overstated.

Some manifestation of diseases are NOT related to nutrition; they are more the direct consequence of physical capitvity; that is the confinement of a small body of water recycled over and over again. This closed system fundamentally alters the dilution effect of water.


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Unread 03/15/2013, 09:17 PM   #140
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I'm a big fan of large (natural reef) quantities of food, which if it's good food, I would imagine would best the chances of disease recovery. However I can see how a small QT setup would keep the pathogens confined.


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Unread 03/27/2013, 08:46 PM   #141
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I had a carbon dust incident in my tank recently. I have a 56 gallon FOWLR. I started a new hob protein skimmer and did not properly rinse the carbon filter part. Problem is now resolved and my tank is clearing up again. Sadly some of my fish were negatively affected. My foxface died unfortunately and my toby puffer and ocellaris clown were very ill for several days. They just layed on the bottom and tried to breathe. The clown is up and swimming again, not very much. My puffer will swim around for short bursts then lay back down again. I am hopefull they may still pull through, but they havent eaten in days. I have coral beauty as well and she appears to be completely unaffected. She has swam happily and ate the entire time. I feed them a variety of foods so I have plenty of choices on hand. I tried frozen spirulina brine with garlic vitamins added, marine s pellets, freeze dried brine also. Should I just continue to be patient and wait it out or is there something I can do now? Any advice is welcome.


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Unread 05/11/2013, 08:13 AM   #142
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Quote:
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I had a carbon dust incident in my tank recently. I have a 56 gallon FOWLR. I started a new hob protein skimmer and did not properly rinse the carbon filter part. Problem is now resolved and my tank is clearing up again. Sadly some of my fish were negatively affected. My foxface died unfortunately and my toby puffer and ocellaris clown were very ill for several days. They just layed on the bottom and tried to breathe. The clown is up and swimming again, not very much. My puffer will swim around for short bursts then lay back down again. I am hopefull they may still pull through, but they havent eaten in days. I have coral beauty as well and she appears to be completely unaffected. She has swam happily and ate the entire time. I feed them a variety of foods so I have plenty of choices on hand. I tried frozen spirulina brine with garlic vitamins added, marine s pellets, freeze dried brine also. Should I just continue to be patient and wait it out or is there something I can do now? Any advice is welcome.
Have you tested the water for nitrates and ammonia. Are their any signs of parasites.
I am not convinced that the problem in your tank is do to some carbon getting into it.


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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken

Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock
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Unread 05/11/2013, 08:24 AM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SantaMonica View Post
I'm a big fan of large (natural reef) quantities of food, which if it's good food, I would imagine would best the chances of disease recovery. However I can see how a small QT setup would keep the pathogens confined.
I have found that using a UV sterilizer ESP if you are adding anything new to the system can make a real difference over time.


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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken

Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock
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Unread 05/11/2013, 04:35 PM   #144
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I would do a 30 percent water change immediately

Hello:

I would do a 30% water change and add any bacteria additive product like Seachem Stability if you have it.

Then I would watch for any changes in your fishes behavior in the next 12-24 hours following this water change.

If there is any beneficial effect, I would repeat another 20-30% water change in 48 hours.

Then wait for another 96 hours and do a 20% water change.

Just a thought that could not hurt.

Finsky


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Unread 05/11/2013, 08:30 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finsky View Post
Hello:

I would do a 30% water change and add any bacteria additive product like Seachem Stability if you have it.

Then I would watch for any changes in your fishes behavior in the next 12-24 hours following this water change.

If there is any beneficial effect, I would repeat another 20-30% water change in 48 hours.

Then wait for another 96 hours and do a 20% water change.

Just a thought that could not hurt.

Finsky
Excellent advise. I would also run sea hem prime to block any ammonia or nitrates.


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Unread 05/13/2013, 08:00 PM   #146
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Good idea with the Prime

I also thought of measuring your pH and use Seachem Reef Carbonate to keep it between 8.2 - 8.4.

I use all three products and I have had one Red Rose split into four and a True Carpet go from 8" to 16" in one year.

My seven year old pair of mated Tomato Clownsfish are regularly laying a clutch of eggs.

I have even switched to Seachem Reef Salt about three years ago.

Just have had good success with Seachem products and recently switched to Purigen instead of Chemi-Pure.

Not trying to push their products although my 65 gallon high planted Amazon tank with eight discuss is doing fantastic as well.

Finsky


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Unread 05/13/2013, 10:22 PM   #147
Aquarist007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finsky View Post
I also thought of measuring your pH and use Seachem Reef Carbonate to keep it between 8.2 - 8.4.

I use all three products and I have had one Red Rose split into four and a True Carpet go from 8" to 16" in one year.

My seven year old pair of mated Tomato Clownsfish are regularly laying a clutch of eggs.

I have even switched to Seachem Reef Salt about three years ago.

Just have had good success with Seachem products and recently switched to Purigen instead of Chemi-Pure.

Not trying to push their products although my 65 gallon high planted Amazon tank with eight discuss is doing fantastic as well.

Finsky
Have you tried Clear Fx .this product goes farther then chemipure and removes organics too. Comes in a bag but I run it loose in a phosban reactor.
Lasts 4 months in marine and 6 months in fresh.


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I prefer my substrates stirred but not shaken

Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock
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Unread 05/15/2013, 07:38 PM   #148
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Clear fx

Where can you order it online and how much does it cost?


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Finsky

Current Tank Info: 120 mixed reef - 250 lbs of live rock, Rena XP4, two Hydor Koralia 3250s, Aqua-Medic Tuboflotor multi 1000 skimmer - Two 60" Marineland Reef Capable LEDs - 8 1/2 years
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Unread 05/15/2013, 08:08 PM   #149
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Quote:
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Where can you order it online and how much does it cost?
Bing "Clear FX fish" and you'll get a dozen resellers of the stuff.


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Unread 06/25/2013, 08:09 AM   #150
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That's pretty good information about the fish health and titration.. Its really informative for me..I really love to read this all..
It will be help me in my further work..


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