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Unread 04/09/2012, 06:33 PM   #26
120reefermadnes
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I do about 15-20% water change weekly on my reef, I figured I would do the same with this tank also


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Unread 04/09/2012, 08:11 PM   #27
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15-20% water change is fine if your tank is established but your seahorse tank is most likely still cycling. The point right now is to keep the ammonia below .5 even if that takes a 100% water change every day.

Getting the seahorses to eat can be tricky too but you have to get them eating frozen mysis for their longterm survival unless you want to raise live mysis yourself. I'm still recommending going with live foods like ghost shrimp or mysis shrimp at this time until your cycle is over. It'll help with controlling the ammonia. Besides, you're in south Florida, I'm sure you can find places where you can go collect live food yourself.

Of course, good luck btw, the road ahead is not going to be easy and will take a lot of hard work on your part, but you can make it through.


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Unread 04/10/2012, 01:23 AM   #28
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If they are only live food for you right now, you might want to try the turkey baster trick? Place the live food in the baster and feed them. They will soon realize where the food is coming from. Slowly add some frozen mysis in with the live. Once you see them eat the frozen, increase the ratio of frozen to live.

Also you might want to consider deworming them.

Kind Regards,

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Unread 04/11/2012, 06:59 PM   #29
120reefermadnes
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After looking on seahorse.org im pretty sure my 2 yellow horsed are either reidis or kudas, only one eats frozen mysis the others only live brine and ghost shrimp, ive been doing daily water changes to combat the heavy feedings, anything else I should do to get them eating frozen mysis? I am mixing the live and frozen hopefuly they catch on.


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Unread 04/11/2012, 07:01 PM   #30
120reefermadnes
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How do I deworm them, and I will def try the turrkey baster too


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Current Tank Info: 120 sps dominated
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Unread 04/11/2012, 07:05 PM   #31
120reefermadnes
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I have been doing 20gal everyday since they have been in the tank


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120gal sps reef, eshopps r300 refuge w/ cheato & LR, reef octopus GFO reactor , SRO XP-3000ext, AI sols and 2 54w t5's, mp40x2, Tunze osmo/kalk

Current Tank Info: 120 sps dominated
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Unread 04/11/2012, 09:51 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 120reefermadnes View Post
After looking on seahorse.org im pretty sure my 2 yellow horsed are either reidis or kudas, only one eats frozen mysis the others only live brine and ghost shrimp, ive been doing daily water changes to combat the heavy feedings, anything else I should do to get them eating frozen mysis? I am mixing the live and frozen hopefuly they catch on.
If one is already on to eating frozen, the others will be helped by seeing it and eventually catch on.
Don't forget to siphon out the uneaten food.


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Unread 04/13/2012, 07:32 PM   #33
120reefermadnes
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Now both yellow horses are eating frozen mysis, the bigger orang one hasnt yet tryed it but hopefully he will soon, I have been doing my daily waterchanges soon after the night time feeding to suck up all uneatin food


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Unread 04/13/2012, 07:33 PM   #34
120reefermadnes
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What size powerhead should I get and what brand works best with the horses so they dont get caught in it?


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Unread 04/14/2012, 08:15 AM   #35
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Well, I use an old style Koralia-1 and a Koralia evolution 450 in my tank. I have them near the bottom back corners, angled towards the front middle glass. Some people feel that the horses maybe able to get their tails in between the grate of the K-1's but in my years of keeping these horses with these powerheads that has never happened. Also, those new Koralia Evolution pumps have an even smaller grate so I don't think it would ever be a problem.

Were I you, I would get either two Koralia Evolution 450gph pumps or two Koralia Evolution 550gph pumps. Nothing bigger.

I also once tried experimenting by putting two Koralia 750gph pumps on a wavemaker. You'd think that since the total GPH at any given time is actually less than the two pumps I have on now, the horses would be fine. Unfortunately, not so. Mine wound up hitched to the same spots all day long, would only swim around if I turned the pumps off.


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Unread 04/14/2012, 09:54 AM   #36
120reefermadnes
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Hey nova, what temp do you keep yours at, do u use a chiller?


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Unread 04/14/2012, 09:59 AM   #37
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I gotta first say I'm really amazed by your effort. At first I thought you had pretty much sentenced your horses to death, but it seems like it's very likely they'll survive and do fine.

That said, changing too much water every day isn't that necessary, the key is to make sure SOME ammonia exists to get the cycle started. Otherwise, you may just drag the cycle out longer than it has to, although definitely continue siphoning out uneaten food.

I used to just use my return for flow but after adding a stylophora I added a Koralia 1 in my tank, it's off to the side in what I call the open waters (I set up my tank so that the live rock creates a diagonal triangle cutting the tank in half). My seahorses don't mind the extra current and sometimes even seem to enjoy it. I doubt they'll have problems with the intake, I mean, I even saw a snail crawling around the grating and it was fine.


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Unread 04/14/2012, 10:19 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 120reefermadnes View Post
After looking on seahorse.org im pretty sure my 2 yellow horsed are either reidis or kudas, only one eats frozen mysis the others only live brine and ghost shrimp, ive been doing daily water changes to combat the heavy feedings, anything else I should do to get them eating frozen mysis? I am mixing the live and frozen hopefuly they catch on.


How much did you pay for them? Kuda's will be on the lower end & the reidi's should be at the higher end. What were they sold to you as?

Kind Regards,

Tim


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Unread 04/14/2012, 01:47 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 120reefermadnes View Post
Hey nova, what temp do you keep yours at, do u use a chiller?

Yes, I use a AquaEuro 1/13th HP chiller, but remember I have a 150w Metal Halide light in partially enclosed hood. If I didn't have the chiller my tank would be 82 degrees, easy.

Right now I run the chiller between 72 and 73 degrees.

When I was using PC lights and no hood, I could simply maintain the water temp at around 73-74 with the addition of an Ice Probe unit (much cheaper than a chiller) and a fan across the surface of the water.


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Unread 04/14/2012, 02:12 PM   #40
120reefermadnes
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I paid $140 for all 3. The lfs I got them from didnt know the species just that they were wild


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Unread 04/14/2012, 02:18 PM   #41
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I thought they were good choice at the time because I watched them everytime I would go there for wat ever reason for the month or so they were there and always looked healthy and happy 2 me and my girl really wanted them so here we are. Ya im really trying to do everything i have to so they stay happy n healthy


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Unread 04/14/2012, 02:35 PM   #42
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You're doing good. Yeah, I agree with jck that you can cut back on those water changes a bit now...let's start monitoring to see if you have any Ammonia or nitrite, and where your nitrate levels are at.

My guess is they're Kuda from the price tag. When I bought my ORA bred H. reidis they were close to $100 each. Pics would help whenever you can. Good to hear that two of the three are eating frozen. Hopefully the third will "learn" from his tank mates.


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Unread 04/14/2012, 02:42 PM   #43
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also remember these were wild caught that makes a big difference in price. i agree you are doing fine. i have erectus from ora but i do have a w/c male mixed in i got it on a whim as part of a group buy for 27$ and fee shipping i couldn't resist. that was over two months ago all are fat and happy. so dont get discouraged . i would love to see some pics of these yellow beauties .


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Unread 04/14/2012, 10:06 PM   #44
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also remember these were wild caught that makes a big difference in price. i agree you are doing fine. i have erectus from ora but i do have a w/c male mixed in i got it on a whim as part of a group buy for 27$ and fee shipping i couldn't resist. that was over two months ago all are fat and happy. so dont get discouraged . i would love to see some pics of these yellow beauties .
LOL sounds like my H. erectus brood. When I set this tank up, the first horse I stocked was a WC fish. Wasn't planning on doing it that way, but I couldn't help it - she was so pretty. Had to do the full deworming regimen, wean her onto frozen food, the whole nine yards. Worth every minute of effort and frustration IMO, but I wouldn't recommend a novice trying it.
The three other horses in my tank are all locally-bred animals from a fellow hobbyist. Everyone gets along...pardon the pun...swimmingly.


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Unread 04/15/2012, 11:19 AM   #45
120reefermadnes
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What do I do to deworm them, how necesary is it to do?


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Unread 04/15/2012, 12:44 PM   #46
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Well, if they're wild caught, there's a chance they're carrying intestinal parasites. If you're not planning on introducing any more horses into the brood (and you shouldn't, you're pretty well maxed) then SOME people say that it's not necessary.

Personally I don't agree. If you had a tapeworm, you'd want it gone, yes? Same scenario. The internal parasites may be interfering with the horses digestion, they may not...but IMO it's usually worth it to deworm.

Now, as for how to do it:
Let's Google it....
Top link.


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Unread 04/15/2012, 02:46 PM   #47
120reefermadnes
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So wheres the best place to get those medications and what brands the best


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Unread 04/15/2012, 05:24 PM   #48
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Brands don't matter, but you may have to get a vet prescription for one or two of them if your store can't get you some.


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Unread 04/15/2012, 06:02 PM   #49
120reefermadnes
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Is there a way to tell if they need it done or if its effecting its health or is it just one of those things u should just do to be on the safe side?


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Unread 04/15/2012, 06:35 PM   #50
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The person who taught me about the worming process recommended it should be done for all wild caught horses. Figure that out of three horses, the chances of one of them having SOME sort of internal parasite are probably pretty high.


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