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Old 07/31/2017, 11:47 AM   #326
jrhupp
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Originally Posted by NubbsJRN View Post
Jrhupp, have you used petg yet? If so what are your experiences?

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I have not tried PETG yet. Mostly I have stuck with ABS. I tried some natural ABS (non-pigmented) for the first time recently and was absolutely amazed at how much stronger the final print seemed.

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amazing! *subscribed!

wish i had the inclination to do this... limitless!
Thanks!

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Originally Posted by kenneth wolfe View Post
For your impeller use simplify 3d for your slicing and set your infill to a mesh, in print settings use layering and remove the outer layer and last top layer to leave the mesh , then work with density of the infill.. just my thought on printing a skimmer wheel, I've made my own for jebao pumps, I use a original prusa , and I have large frame mpcnc, converting my prusa to multiple material,.
I will keep this in mind. The idea of mesh wheel was on my mind when I did the original skimmer design. But couldn't justify the effort to model it. Just messing with a "solid" wheel in the slicer never occurred to me. Do have your work posted somewhere to share?

I have been running the pegged impeller design since last November and have been pretty pleased with its performance. There is probably some room for improvement, but it cranks out plenty of nasty foam as is.



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Old 07/31/2017, 05:02 PM   #327
kenneth wolfe
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thing i love about my printers is while I am testing one part I usualy am printing the revision as im testing the first..My printers are part of my tool box now I use them constantly.. My prusa mk4 is my work horse great, great printer .4mm, davinci pro w .2mm and my mpcnc 39"x39"x"19" work area expandable. all printers inclosed and heated. I use simplify 3d and the prusa slicer. simplify and prusa have new updates for varrible laryer thickness kinda cool. Simplify is the bees knees..


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Old 07/31/2017, 06:42 PM   #328
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your prints look nice , you could improve some though , think about converting to a boden extruder and a cooling fan change.. Taking the weight off the gantry improves print speed and accuracy quit a bit. my direct drive is similar to yours but i suspect much lighter, might be only main differanc from a origal , you have the good lead screws.. thats a good set up.. a prusa origal bed is 9x9.5 , it has ther capton tape or what ever they call it on it, but I still use the blue tape,, its just easier..theres a ton mods for the prusa's like yours and mine..you can go to prusa's site and get the new revisions, many are worth the time to print.I am waiting on my multi material upgrade from them now, I ordered december last year..I do share my designs.. most of my stuff is industrial , some auto racing , of course my reef tank.


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Old 08/02/2017, 12:51 AM   #329
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180 gallon build: Modular control system, 3D printed equipment, open-source

Is simply worth the money? So far I have mainly just used cura (free!)


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Old 08/02/2017, 10:11 AM   #330
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Is simply worth the money? So far I have mainly just used cura (free!)


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I think so. I was using cura and slic3r for months until I ran into an issue that neither would slice well. I tried Simplify3d and within a day I uninstalled all the others. It is expensive, but it does everything. I've had 0 issues with it. Anytime something came out wrong, I would see it's because of a setting I did and not something in the slicer itself.


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Old 08/05/2017, 03:58 PM   #331
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my thoughts as well, simplify3d is my go to slicer..its so mutch faster than cura..


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Old 08/06/2017, 12:55 PM   #332
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Open infill done only in simplify buy removing layers , this part has 5 layer densities

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Old 08/06/2017, 01:22 PM   #333
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Open infill done only in simplify buy removing layers , this part has 5 layer densities

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My mpcnc, older pic, making some changes..

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Old 08/06/2017, 01:28 PM   #334
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My prusa..great printer..I built this enclosure more like furniture for in my home..took a few tries to get 100% , if your a prusa owner you appreciate it..lol

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Old 08/07/2017, 05:48 AM   #335
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Looks good!


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Old 08/07/2017, 07:22 AM   #336
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need to shrink those pics a bit...


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Old 08/07/2017, 09:31 AM   #337
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Im posting threw taptalk, there phone size for me..

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Old 09/04/2017, 05:09 PM   #338
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I have some updates!

First, I have been plugging away on refining and adding features to my main controller, and I am close to sharing the source code and files. I have not implemented the RTC yet. So far, all time keeping relies on NTP with no link to the RTC. Once that is resolved I will post it up.

One of the recent feature adds was an array of leak sensors tied directly to the control. They are not fancy, just 5 VDC on one side and then monitoring the other side for a completed circuit. But they get the trick done. If you want the Eagle file for them it is here: Leak sensor board

Leak sensors:


When the leak sensors are tripped, they trigger an audible alarm (piezo) and fire an email alert. The alarm remains on the whole time the sensor shows a leak state, but the email is on a timer. So, no spam; one alert per half hour period. I also have the email alerts tied to temperature limits, and have plans to tie them pH and water levels. But those are not implemented yet.

Towards that end though, I built a module to monitor pH. I am using a Milwaukee Instruments probe with it (you can see it in the sump pic down a bit in this post) and am quite pleased with the performance thus far. My longer term plan is to build a number of ďsensorĒ modules along these lines; I am think EC and flow as two useful ones. Anyway, here is the built-up module on scrap of DIN rail:


Here is the topside to the board. I know, not much to it.


Bottom side showing the amp circuit and the voltage inverter:


If you want to make one, you can find all the files below:
SketchUp model
Eagle files
Arduino sketch

Earlier in the year I had a temperature sensor fail. I built a second set off the same design (hoping it was a manufacturing defect as opposed to a design flaw) and have been watching them closely since. I am not entirely certain what exactly the failure was, and the second round is still going strong. But I have observed on the originals and the second version, degradation of the epoxy I used to pot the sensors. I have also observed that the stainless-steel bodies have held up well below water, but the parts that have been exposed to air have corroded. Not bad, but they are ugly. So, I figured a redesign was in order. The new version uses a glass sensor body and is potted in silicone. Both materials proven to hold up well in the aquarium and I can see how good the potting is when building the sensors. I also scored some much higher quality cable to use on these!

Here is a version two temperature sensor:


Some other changes are a redesigned sump layout. I loved the rubble box, but access to where the filter socks were, was killing me. So, it had to go. I have also had some issue with microbubbles in the display since the original setup, which has been motivation enough to redo the sump. But until recently I had been uninspired as to resolve the issue. No more though.

Here is the new sump:


I also took a little time and cleaned up a few things on my control panel. The big change was a disconnect on my DC supply.

Here is the new layout:


For future activities that are hopefully soon to come:
- My ATO module is visible in the control panel layout and I have posted some details on it before. Itís at the point where I am ready to actually install and finish testing it, but have not had a long enough stretch at home to feel comfortable doing this. But I think in September I should be good to go for testing.
- Iím also looking at some EC sensor designs. Iím not stoked to shell out for an off the shelf sensor and most of the DIY sensors I see on the net are less than exciting. So, I am looking at a non-contact inductive design. We shall see how far and if I make it anywhere with that.
- I have a 24 VAC power supply design together and parts laying on my work bench to put together a new power supply for my top off valves. Itís all stuff I had laying around and a board I quickly printed up. But I am excited none the less.


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Old 09/04/2017, 07:57 PM   #339
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Awesome stuff..


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Old 09/05/2017, 08:28 AM   #340
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I'm still really impressed with your skimmer design. I keep kicking around the idea of building one myself.

I haven't had the time to even finish up my kalk reactor, though


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Old 09/05/2017, 02:30 PM   #341
jrhupp
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Awesome stuff..
Thanks!

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I'm still really impressed with your skimmer design. I keep kicking around the idea of building one myself.

I haven't had the time to even finish up my kalk reactor, though
I'm glad you like it. I have been quite happy with it and would absolutely love to see someone else build one.

I do have some things I want to change related to the air intake though. The current design has clogged a few times on me. I am suspecting this is mostly just an issue of an old dusty house (1968) that has the windows open a lot, and would not be an issue for someone in a modern home. But either way, I need an intake filter. So the plan is at some point to model up a filter assembly that screws on in place of the current intake.


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Old 09/06/2017, 01:52 PM   #342
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I'm digging through the links on this post, but can't find it... Where's the links for the skimmer stuff?

I have a chunk of clear PVC sitting in my garage and if it's the right size, I might start printing the parts.


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Old 09/06/2017, 06:54 PM   #343
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First of all...just pure awesome, that's all I have to say. I have the pc, and actually made my own skimmer by molding different pieces in the oven before I got a 3d printer. I now want to print yours. My question is this. When I import your design into skeychup it bring it in as a roughly 6' diameter pipe and not 6". What am I too g wrong?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


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Old 09/12/2017, 04:03 PM   #344
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First off, sorry for the slow replies (below). I have been traveling and have not had a chance/energy to get to this.

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I'm digging through the links on this post, but can't find it... Where's the links for the skimmer stuff?

I have a chunk of clear PVC sitting in my garage and if it's the right size, I might start printing the parts.
Here are links:
Skimmer model in SketchUp
Zip archive with properly scaled STLs for all the parts

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First of all...just pure awesome, that's all I have to say. I have the pc, and actually made my own skimmer by molding different pieces in the oven before I got a 3d printer. I now want to print yours. My question is this. When I import your design into skeychup it bring it in as a roughly 6' diameter pipe and not 6". What am I too g wrong?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks. Glad you like it, and happy to help.

All the parts are modeled 10x. SketchUp does not do well with complex geometry when parts are small; lots of holes in surfaces. Modeling at 10x (or greater) helps greatly with this. You simply need to scale the parts by 0.1 before exporting them.

Normally I rescale before posting parts, but left these large in case others wanted to modify them. I have updated the notes in the model to reflect the scaling.

I also added some notes on the length and sizing of the acrylic tube I used to build the skimmer (OD, wall thickness and lengths).


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Old 09/18/2017, 06:36 AM   #345
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That is perfect, thank you for the modifications and help. I started printing out them by resizing them to fit the 6" tube, but i may reprint them based of your sizing to make sure they fit properly.


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Old 09/19/2017, 11:00 AM   #346
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jrhupp: Just out of curiosity - what infill did you use for printing your parts?


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Old 09/20/2017, 07:09 PM   #347
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jrhupp: Just out of curiosity - what infill did you use for printing your parts?
Typically 30% infill with a 1 mm thick wall.


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Old 09/30/2017, 08:01 PM   #348
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What would the easiest way be to remove the fans on the cone, or make them thicker? I have printed that part three times now and every time the layers peal apart during printing. I think it may be because i dont have a heated chamber to keep the ambient air warm to prevent the abs from cooling to quickly. Any help with sketchup would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


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Old 10/02/2017, 08:42 AM   #349
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What would the easiest way be to remove the fans on the cone, or make them thicker? I have printed that part three times now and every time the layers peal apart during printing. I think it may be because i dont have a heated chamber to keep the ambient air warm to prevent the abs from cooling to quickly. Any help with sketchup would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I don't know that there is an "easy" way; SketchUp falls pretty flat when it comes to modifying complex geometry. If you make hidden geometry visible you will be able to see edges for all the faces and then you can get some idea on how to modify it most easily. Probably adding a line on each side and removing the outwardly curved portion of the fin would be the simplest aproach.

You will want to leave some "fin" on the cone though. They are what gives grip when disassembling it down the road for cleaning. Once a little salt creep builds up in the threads the value of the fins becomes very apparent.

Have you tried putting a box over the printer? It is simple and holds in the heat, which may be all you need to ward off the layer separations. I don't actively heat my printer; its just in a plywood box with a few fans on the steppers to keep them "cool" and the heat spread around.


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Old 10/13/2017, 01:36 AM   #350
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Just received my multi material kit from prusa.. What a mess

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