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Old 02/01/2012, 01:09 PM   #951
saf1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by der_wille_zur_macht View Post
The BOM on google is more or less up to date. I just used it to order parts last week and everything from Mouser was in stock.

The Typhon was really designed to control LEDs, with the potential for expansion. There's nothing in the core project to do what you're describing out of the box, but the potential is definitely there. A popular way to get temps is to use one wire temp sensors (DS1820). A popular way to read switch states and turn pumps on and off would be to use an I2C I/O berakout board (see the one that's a part of the Hydra project) with a relay board.

Speaking of the Hydra, it was really designed from the ground up to be a whole-tank controller, so it has some things out of the box that the Typhon does not have. But, of course, they're both Arduino-based, so they basically have the same potential functionality. It's really a matter of what comes out of the box as part of the design vs. what you have to build yourself.

Thanks Der. The Typhon will probably do for now as the rest is just eye candy more or less Both of the LED setups allow for dimming and I think it would be better for the tank in the long run if I went that route. The potentiometers are fine but tieing a brightness to a rolling time means I probably get a more accurate and consistent light in the end.

I wouldn't know where to put the temp sensor as you suggest I'm afraid. I'm ok with putting the parts together and the solder, etc. But adding in things is a bit over my skill set today. 10 years or so ago maybe


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Old 02/02/2012, 11:46 AM   #952
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Are any of you active folks on this thread running with meanwell ELN drivers? I'd like to do an experiment but I don't have an ELN handy.


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Old 02/02/2012, 06:36 PM   #953
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Hmm...what are you thinking of doing? I believe my son has two on his bio-cube - the 60-48D's. If it isn't super crazy he may let me take a look. His Rose Bubble Tip finally adjusted to the LED's and he may not let me


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Old 02/03/2012, 06:26 AM   #954
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I was thinking (again) about modifying the way the transistors switch the 10v signal but the more I look at the design the less clear it becomes as to exactly how I would modify it without a total redesign. So, I might need to think about it for a bit before I actually need a volunteer after all...

This is part of my on-again off-again desire to do a 2.0 version that fixes some of the problems with the current hardware.


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Old 02/03/2012, 08:02 AM   #955
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Ok, well let me know. I'm actually interested in building two of these if it helps any and could chip in if you buy more boards. As I mentioned my son's kit is using the mean wells and my new bio-cube is using the kit from Steve's. I'm not sure what power supply he is using but his driver is something I guess he made or sub'd out. It also accepts the dimming signal.

I don't have a lot of coral in my tank since I moved my 6 gallon nano over and they wouldn't mind me abusing their light a bit


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Old 02/03/2012, 08:33 AM   #956
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The drivers from Steve's use the CAT4101 IC, which was popularized in the DIY driver thread - I've probably got about 40 of those around my house so I'm all set there as far as experimentation.


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Old 02/04/2012, 10:51 AM   #957
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Hey guys,

Sorry to jump in here but I'm hoping that someone more familiar with the typhon can help me out.

I'm looking for confirmation that the voltage readings coming from my 5v and 10v channels on the controller looks correct. I'm having a dimming issue and need to determine if it's the controller or my drivers.

5v Channels

005.jpg

007.jpg

017.jpg

009.jpg


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Old 02/04/2012, 10:55 AM   #958
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10v Channels

010.jpg

011.jpg

012.jpg

013.jpg

Thanks!


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Old 02/07/2012, 04:38 PM   #959
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Originally Posted by joelatx View Post
Yes all the individual parts are working, (excluding the ethernet, that's later) I have been able to get Spuzzum's ADC test code to work, and I'm able to add the clock to that code and it displays. I can load the typhon code, and it displays the normal menu (but of course the buttons don't work.)

The Typhon code uses a "CheckButtonAction" or some other method to catch the key presses on individual pins. The ADC keyboard uses the i2c bus and I'm having trouble sending (catching) something the old code can understand. I can post code samples once I get home, if that will help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by der_wille_zur_macht View Post
Yeah, code samples would help. Maybe Spizzum will come along and offer some guidance. This is one thing I haven't yet done on this controller.
My apologies for being MIA.. I'm having to move and it's stressing me out


As far as I can tell with the ADC keys and the Typhon script...

Down where the menu options start, you need to configure a "case" instance for each command you want to achieve, and assign whatever function to whatever key. This would lead to empty commands for unused buttons within the "case".

Sorry for lack of better terms.. I'm not a coder

As for what I did with the version of Typhon I'm working on.. I just disabled the backlight PWM, and renamed it lcdDelay, and readjusted the lines in the script calling for "bkl".. as I want all 6 PWM channels, and will control backlight with a push switch instead.. up for off: signal goes through resistor to backlight pin, down for on: signal bypasses resistor straight to backlight pin. I'm also planning a thumb-turn trimpot to adjust the maximum brightness as well.

I did make the Deuligne lcd adapter, and that freed up 2 PWM pins and a few more digital pins as well.

Other than that.. I'm still using DWZM's keys.. it was easier .



Oh.. I also created a master on/off time, then set the eeprom to only save the master start time, master end time, master photoperiod, and each individual max intensity levels. Everything else is done in the script.. I manually set each channel's fade start/end times according to the previous channel's times, so if I change the photoperiod via the menu controls then do a reset.. it adjusts each channel's photoperiods accordingly. This freed up tons of memory.. I found it would freeze up with full menu items for all 6 channels. I also noticed the display would flicker when the minute changed, and even seconds would seem to stutter.. not really in time, with all 6 channels in memory. Now.. it runs smoooooth .


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Old 02/07/2012, 05:12 PM   #960
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Here's my version so far.. also has the DallasTemp stuffs saltydogaqua posted for me

My fixture's going to be a 3 piece heatsink, so I'm using 3 temp sensors. "This" controller's just for the light.. not enough memory or pins for much more. Will be making a second controller for everything else.

http://www.mediafire.com/?cvv3q8zn29wkhi5


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Old 02/07/2012, 07:38 PM   #961
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So, how hard is to attach simple temp sensor to typhoon to monitor temperature on one heat sink ? I need a wat to see how hot it gets inside enclosed hood with stock fans running. I'd appreciate any help


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Old 02/07/2012, 07:43 PM   #962
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If anyone wants a Typhon board (V0.3- w/A3 pin on the left side) PM me. I have 4 available.


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Old 02/07/2012, 08:23 PM   #963
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Originally Posted by JarekS View Post
So, how hard is to attach simple temp sensor to typhoon to monitor temperature on one heat sink ? I need a wat to see how hot it gets inside enclosed hood with stock fans running. I'd appreciate any help

Here's what I found for a single sensor.





And this is how I did 3 sensors. But note..



That red jumper should be connected to ground, not vcc.. buddy pointed that out to me just from the picture.

This post had the schematic for multiple sensors
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...&postcount=897

It was pretty easy actually. Just look at my script, and see where the temp stuff was added, and you can see what needs changing. I just did a simple c/p from another script out there



Last edited by Spuzzum; 02/07/2012 at 08:44 PM.
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Old 02/07/2012, 08:44 PM   #964
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Here's an excellent example script for using the ADC keys.. it's too big to post

They're the same script.. I just c/p'd one into windows notepad in case someone has trouble reading the pde file.


Sorry.. can't remember where I got it from.


Attached Files
File Type: txt adc_example.txt (93.6 KB, 58 views)
File Type: txt krusduino.pde.txt (45.0 KB, 48 views)
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Old 02/08/2012, 06:57 AM   #965
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spuzzum View Post
Here's what I found for a single sensor.





And this is how I did 3 sensors. But note..



That red jumper should be connected to ground, not vcc.. buddy pointed that out to me just from the picture.

This post had the schematic for multiple sensors
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...&postcount=897

It was pretty easy actually. Just look at my script, and see where the temp stuff was added, and you can see what needs changing. I just did a simple c/p from another script out there
Thanks Spuzzum, but im a little slow when it comes to this stuff, (assembled original typhoon and now just finished LED and it all works!) however, modifications like this were not on the master "plan"
How does the ds1820 actually connect to the heatsink?
And where is pin 3? would it be i2c pin on the board?
Also my display is not as big , only space is on the right side of the time display.
Eventually i'd love to one or two relays to control fans, but one thing at the time

jarek


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Old 02/08/2012, 07:31 AM   #966
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Jarek,

"pin 3" is the analog input pin that was liberated in version 1.0 of the hardware. If you do not have 1.0, you can set up your one wire network on one of the serial port pins, you'll just have to update the sketch to use that pin instead.

The DS1820 reports it's own temperature, so if you want it to report the temperature of a specific thing or a specific environment, just put it there! If you want it to report a heatsink temperature, glue it to the heatsink with a dab of thermal epoxy. Just make sure the pins and wires don't contact the heatsink or it'll short out.

Anyone who is new to this sort of thing and thinking about these sorts of expansions should probably get a "normal" arduino (or an RBBB if you're on a budget) and play with whatever the new component is on it's own, before trying to integrate into the Typhon. This will give you a solid foundation and help you understand how things function, which can be invaluable when integrating components.


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Old 02/08/2012, 08:21 AM   #967
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Jarek,

"pin 3" is the analog input pin that was liberated in version 1.0 of the hardware. If you do not have 1.0, you can set up your one wire network on one of the serial port pins, you'll just have to update the sketch to use that pin instead.

The DS1820 reports it's own temperature, so if you want it to report the temperature of a specific thing or a specific environment, just put it there! If you want it to report a heatsink temperature, glue it to the heatsink with a dab of thermal epoxy. Just make sure the pins and wires don't contact the heatsink or it'll short out.

Anyone who is new to this sort of thing and thinking about these sorts of expansions should probably get a "normal" arduino (or an RBBB if you're on a budget) and play with whatever the new component is on it's own, before trying to integrate into the Typhon. This will give you a solid foundation and help you understand how things function, which can be invaluable when integrating components.
I have of the very fist boards with inverted grd and + pins. So i assume that i dont have the pin 3 available.
Would any ardunio board do for testing or should i but a specific one that you guys recommend.
Having a two year old and a another baby soon is putting a roadblock into my "playtime" with anything. But i'll try.

DWZM did that expansion board project with moon led, temp sensor etcthat you were working on go anywhere ?

Jarek


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Old 02/08/2012, 08:58 AM   #968
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For general experimentation on a budget, I like the RBBB from Modern Device. Of course if you need shield compatibility you'll have to look elsewhere. The shield-compatible clones from seeedstudio would probably be my choice then.

You can definitely experiment with a Typhon but I find that sometimes it is awkward to experiment with a board that has "extra" stuff on it.

I built the prototype for that expansion module but decided I didn't like a bunch of stuff on it. It probably works but I kinda gave up on it since I've been putting effort in to my big tank now that it's online again. If anyone is interested in taking over that effort I can send out the stuff I have to date and provide some comments on how I would change it.


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Old 02/09/2012, 11:42 AM   #969
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Would UNO be good for testing purposes or better just stick with RBBB?


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Old 02/09/2012, 11:52 AM   #970
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Depends. UNO has onboard USB, RBBB doesn't - but since the Typhon and Hydra don't either you're gonna need a USB-TTL breakout sooner or later.

UNO is shield compatible, the RBBB isn't. Not a big deal for these projects though.


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Old 02/09/2012, 06:50 PM   #971
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Ah already haveUSB-TRL , so RBBB than, thanks so much


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Old 02/10/2012, 11:50 AM   #972
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shark boy brought something to my attention... I needed to modify the script for "my" linux box, so if you're trying to compile "my" version of Typhon, then you'll need to edit a few lines back to what they originally were...

Use the "search" function and find:

Code:
// create the buttons
Button btnMenu     = Button(12,BUTTON_PULLDOWN);
Button btnSelect   = Button(13,BUTTON_PULLDOWN);
Button btnPlus     = Button(14,BUTTON_PULLDOWN);
Button btnMinus    = Button(15,BUTTON_PULLDOWN);
and change back to:

Code:
// create the buttons
Button btnMenu     = Button(12,PULLDOWN);
Button btnSelect   = Button(13,PULLDOWN);
Button btnPlus     = Button(14,PULLDOWN);
Button btnMinus    = Button(15,PULLDOWN);
It would error out on me if I didn't change to BUTTON_PULLDOWN.


And just to make it easier.. here's the pinout I'm using...




I also noticed that the sketch I uploaded actually needs the 6th channel activated in the menu still, as well as uncommented to activate the channel in the eeprom setup of the script.

If anybody needs it, I can upload it later.


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Old 02/15/2012, 07:26 AM   #973
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Given some other threads that have been floating around, I want to mention here that there are people having trouble getting this controller to work with some of the larger meanwell drivers, i.e. LPF and HLG series. Some people are reporting these drivers working fine, others are clearly having problems related to the signal format the Typhon is generating.

Unless you can get exact hard confirmation that the Typhon actually works with a SPECIFIC driver from one of these product lines, I would suggest proceeding with caution.


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Old 02/20/2012, 07:33 PM   #974
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shark boy brought something to my attention... I needed to modify the script for "my" linux box, so if you're trying to compile "my" version of Typhon, then you'll need to edit a few lines back to what they originally were...
Spuzzum - if you have to modify the code like this, you are just running and older version of the Button library. If you update to the latest version, it will work.


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Old 02/20/2012, 07:34 PM   #975
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Just an FYI for new people trying to upload the current software to their typhon... if you are using Arduino 22 or before, make sure you download the correct version of the Button library.

Those of you using Arduino 1.0... I'm still working out a few bugs but hope to have the original code modified and back to dwzm so he can post it.


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