How hard can it be to keep GONIOPORA?

potpushr · 10/05/2010, 11:56 PM

I really been wanting to get a red goniopora with yellow centers but have been hesitant due to hearing they like pristine water and are finicky.. I have been keeping a lot of sps successfully and was wondering if it was going to be harder to keep goniopora healthy than sps. ALL insight encouraged.

potpushr · 10/06/2010, 08:56 AM

Over 20 views and no input? Im sure people out there raise goniopora..

despot101 · 10/06/2010, 10:27 AM

No personal experience but I keep seeing captive grown frags at swaps, I'd have to assume if you started with a piece like that it wouldnt be too difficult.

JARJOZ · 10/06/2010, 10:32 AM

Some info here for you:
http://www.**************/cotm/may07/index.htm

JARJOZ · 10/06/2010, 10:34 AM

sorry web site name is blocked

JARJOZ · 10/06/2010, 10:43 AM

Goniopora: Daisy or Flowerpot Coral
Family: Poritidae Genus: Goniopora
by Sara Bertolino

Coral Overview
Goniopora spp. "daisy" or "flowerpot" corals have been common imports from Indonesia and other coral-collecting regions since the early years of the reef-keeping hobby. Alveopora spp. are less-frequently harvested relatives of Goniopora spp. These distinct genera are often grouped together by aquarists because they have similarly elongate polyps with daisy-like heads. The difference is that the petal-like tentacles in Goniopora number 24 and in Alveopora there are just 12. (Julian Sprung)

In reviewing numerous articles on this coral, it is most likely wrong to generalize that all Goniopora are difficult to keep. Please do note that this is not a beginner's coral and is better left at the LFS than in your tank if you have not done your homework on its requirements. As Fin and Feather states in the Advanced Aquarist Online Magazine, "dozens of people around the country and the world have been successful with these corals for many years, some as long as nine years and longer. The ability to share with fellow aquarists frags from these long-term colonies will help ensure the establishment of captive strains of Goniopora . Many people have also successfully grown daughter colonies dropped by the parent colony." With that being said, I believe the future of keeping Gonioporas in our reef aquariums will become a reality for the many that admire this coral.
The range of desired flow, food, and light needs differs among the many species of Goniopora . Some grow quite large and a mature colony may look like a colony of Porites from a distance. Others have short polyps and are encrusting. Still others are free living on soft substrates.
The different species have polyps of different shapes and colors which allow them to be identified underwater.

Placement
Many state that more success is found with placement on the substrate. It is not the substrate itself that benefits the coral, but the less-intense water flow and less-direct light. I have kept the pinks in the substrate, but the dark red one has been placed up near the top on my rocks when I had less lighting and it was not hit with direct flow. All of my Goniopora's currently reside in my substrate and that is where they will stay due to my lighting and flow. They are located just 24 in. from (2) 250-W metal-halide lights with 20K XM bulbs. I also supplement with daylight VHOs. The tank was also originally set up as an SPS tank, so it also has moderate to high flow with a Tunze 6000. The first link listed below is to the Advance Aquarist, which has detailed information for each variety of Goniopora and its placement for light and flow.

Feeding
I currently do not target feed my Goniopora's. I feed daily with Rod's Food which has small foods that the Goniopora eats such as Cyclop-eeze, rotifers and DT's oyster eggs. I also dose a capful of DT's Live Marine Phytoplankton-Premium Reef Blend every other day. I also try and feed live baby brine shrimp every other week.
I do have a jar of DT's oyster eggs in the freezer just waiting to be used. Per DT's website: " Corals for which this food is particularly useful are those with poor prey capture responses and those with very small polyps. Included are Porites , Montipora , Goniopora , gorgonians, soft corals. The oyster eggs even show success with the maintenance of previously difficult or impossible to maintain azooxanthellate soft corals and seafans.
DT's Live Marine Phytoplankton - Premium Reef Blend naturally provides needed nutrition for your reef inhabitants, through both directly feeding some reef inhabitants and indirectly feeding others by increasing their food supply. There is evidence that soft corals, along with Goniopora and gorgonians may also benefit from the direct consumption of phytoplankton."
I also run a 70-gal refugium with a deep sand bed and the use of these methods also encourage the growth of a variety of small zooplankton and plankton-producing organisms (by spawning, larvae in water column).

rogersb · 10/06/2010, 11:08 AM

I have heard the red ones like more light so I placed one midway in my tank under 4x54 t5 and within a couple of days all polyps had fallen off the skeleton. I tried moving it down but it did not save the few that were left. I ordered mine from Dr F&S LADD and thought it would be bullet proof. To do it again I would only buy one I could physically see first and verify the health of the coral.

sacremon · 10/06/2010, 12:04 PM

Color is irrelevant. The concern is the species, which may or may not be all that easy to determine.

As far as needing pristine water, I think that is an excuse devised by someone who found that they could not keep theirs alive. Goniopora are predominantly found in lagoon environments - very nutrient rich, often to the point of being turbid. Not exactly what I would call pristine. I have seen suggestions of having them in a tank that does not have a skimmer, so that plankton is not removed from the water. That is probably a very good idea.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/10/aafeature2

TwistedEnvy · 10/06/2010, 02:06 PM

Read these

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1901883

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ight=goniopora

ramtmac · 10/06/2010, 03:07 PM

I started a thread about my new one and got some good feedback. I have had mine for I guess a month. No new polyps, that I can see. But the extension has increased and there has been no signs of decline. need new lights and haven't tried any direct feeding yet so that's probably why there isn't any new growth.. I have Kept my water a little "dirtier" to keep elements in the water which I have understood as essential. (This has been a struggle b.c of my bta who likes pristine water).
Check out my thread there were some great links and advice.
I'm still learning too..

potpushr · 10/06/2010, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwistedEnvy

Read these

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1901883

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ight=goniopora

Thanks twistedenvy... Lotta good info in those threads..

mscarpena · 10/06/2010, 04:10 PM

Your response is very difficult. Need a lot of food and specialized care.

poolkeeper1 · 10/06/2010, 04:20 PM

Long term success with these corals are not good, Most die within a year of being in captivity. That being said it's best to leave them in the ocean JMO. The Problem is no one knows for sure the feeding habits of these beautiful corals and they slowly starve to death.
Bill

Sheol · 10/06/2010, 04:57 PM

Some say they need iodine supplements to increase the chances of survival.., probably true.
Pristine water is a crock, though. People who have kept them longer than a year or year & a half have found Protein Skimmers to be a negative factor. They need nutrient rich water & VERY small plankton for success. IMHO, best left in the Ocean unless they are frags from a long-term surviving colony (2+ years MINIMUM). This coral is notorious for appearing to thrive for many months & then crashing almost overnight.

Matthew

Emerald525 · 10/06/2010, 05:01 PM

The new coral magazine talks about corals and feeding and there is some good information about goniopora explaining why they often do not do well in captivity.

reefer4ever · 10/06/2010, 05:06 PM

I have had a green goniopora for about 8 weeks under regular stocklighting and it has doubled in size. Mine is great! The polyps extend about 2.5 inches!

joemelo · 10/06/2010, 07:10 PM

I have a green goniopora. for atleast 3 months now.
I run it under 8x54w t5
I don't spot feed it.
I give it medium flow
The polyps extend atleast 6 inches for a total of over a foot in diameter.

I haven't had any trouble with that or my elegance.

neoalchemist74 · 10/06/2010, 08:50 PM

My trick is to place right under whwre i feed my fish and every other day I feed Rods Reef original. My red is in a moderately high flow area at the half level but shaded by some large sps colonies. It doubled in size in two years and has encrusted comepletely onto the rock. I believe its the golden peaels in rods reef. Oh by the way its an sps dominated tank and my nutrients are immesurable.

RobMcC · 10/07/2010, 12:50 PM

I've had a red one with yellow centres for about 10 months now. in that time it has only maybe doubled in number of polyps, but at least it is growing.

I do not skim and have loads of plankton coming from refugium.

Sheol · 10/07/2010, 05:07 PM

Please note! 8 Weeks & 3 months in no way equals success with Gonis! These corals are notorius for appearing to thrive for a year or more..
Then they crash, RTN appears, soon you have a skeleton only. Aside from that issue, they are EXTREMELY prone to Brown Jelly infections. Any mechanical injury can cause it, like hermit crabs walking on them. Clownfish trying to host in them will also kill them.

Matthew

stephenrsaiz · 10/07/2010, 05:14 PM

I have the reds with yellow polyps, and sporadic flecks of white on the polyps. They are beautiful. I've had mine for about two years. Pristine water cannot be what mine needs. On the contrary, I have a heavy bio load, and feed my fish well. I keep mine to the side of the tank about 24" below a 400 watt MH. It has grown slow, but very well ever since I've had it. I've never had any issues with any sort of declining health with mine. Im sure parameters play a role as well. I keep my alk and calc very stable, and my temperature too. That being said, your mileage may vary.

:-)

jc-reef · 10/08/2010, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sheol

Please note! 8 Weeks & 3 months in no way equals success with Gonis! These corals are notorius for appearing to thrive for a year or more..
Then they crash, RTN appears, soon you have a skeleton only. Aside from that issue, they are EXTREMELY prone to Brown Jelly infections. Any mechanical injury can cause it, like hermit crabs walking on them. Clownfish trying to host in them will also kill them.
Matthew

whutwo...I have a nice piece that I won during a raffle at MACNA 2010 and this past week my Clowns have been trying to host it at times and seems to be ****ing it off. I need to find a solution FAST!

Sheol · 10/08/2010, 04:59 PM

Remove the fish or remove the coral, STAT! Personally, I'd like to strangle the person who invented "Reef Safe" which means only that a fish WON'T eat coral. Clowns are the biggest PITAs in this hobby!

Matthew

Gdevine · 10/09/2010, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sheol

Please note! 8 Weeks & 3 months in no way equals success with Gonis! These corals are notorius for appearing to thrive for a year or more..
Then they crash, RTN appears, soon you have a skeleton only. Aside from that issue, they are EXTREMELY prone to Brown Jelly infections. Any mechanical injury can cause it, like hermit crabs walking on them. Clownfish trying to host in them will also kill them.

Matthew

Matthew is correct. I call these "rent a coral" as they almost always never survive captive collection. The biggest thing most think is they are missing something in the tank they get on the reef.

elegance coral · 10/10/2010, 07:14 AM

I had a green gonni for 10 or 15 years. IMHO, its all about food. Without adequate food they go downhill in a hurry. Back then, they had a product like those fresh water feeder blocks you drop in the tank when you go on vacation, but these were designed for filter feeders. I knew when it was time to replace the block because the gonni's expansion would decrease. I also fed it my own blender mush. It grew to about half the size of a basket ball and dropped little ones all the time.

10/05/2010, 11:56 PM	#1
potpushr Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 74	How hard can it be to keep GONIOPORA? I really been wanting to get a red goniopora with yellow centers but have been hesitant due to hearing they like pristine water and are finicky.. I have been keeping a lot of sps successfully and was wondering if it was going to be harder to keep goniopora healthy than sps. ALL insight encouraged.

10/06/2010, 10:27 AM	#3
despot101 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Bismarck, ND Posts: 1,937	No personal experience but I keep seeing captive grown frags at swaps, I'd have to assume if you started with a piece like that it wouldnt be too difficult. __________________ And the bottom line In all of this seems to say There's no right and wrong way Current Tank Info: 55g, 20L, 29g

10/06/2010, 02:06 PM	#9
TwistedEnvy Acan Freak Join Date: May 2009 Location: West Allis, Wisconsin Posts: 731	Read these http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1901883 http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ight=goniopora __________________ -Nikki, acan addict Current Tank Info: 29 Red Sea Max, LPS Dominated

10/06/2010, 07:10 PM	#17
joemelo Registered Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Windsor, Ontario, Canada Posts: 229	I have a green goniopora. for atleast 3 months now. I run it under 8x54w t5 I don't spot feed it. I give it medium flow The polyps extend atleast 6 inches for a total of over a foot in diameter. I haven't had any trouble with that or my elegance. __________________ I have no vampire experience, but I have hunted werewolves. I shot one once, but by the time I got there, it had turned back into my neighbour's dog. Current Tank Info: 250 gallon display (60x36x27) 70g sump, AI SOL BLUE, N/P biopellets, GAC, Skimz sm201 skimmer

10/06/2010, 08:50 PM	#18
neoalchemist74 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Longmont Colorado Posts: 627	My trick is to place right under whwre i feed my fish and every other day I feed Rods Reef original. My red is in a moderately high flow area at the half level but shaded by some large sps colonies. It doubled in size in two years and has encrusted comepletely onto the rock. I believe its the golden peaels in rods reef. Oh by the way its an sps dominated tank and my nutrients are immesurable. __________________ You have two ears and one mouth, so you should listen twice as much as you talk. Current Tank Info: in progress

10/06/2010, 08:56 AM	#2
potpushr Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 74	Over 20 views and no input? Im sure people out there raise goniopora..

10/06/2010, 10:32 AM	#4
JARJOZ Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Medinah IL. Posts: 65	Some info here for you: http://www.**************/cotm/may07/index.htm

10/06/2010, 10:34 AM	#5
JARJOZ Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Medinah IL. Posts: 65	sorry web site name is blocked

10/06/2010, 10:43 AM	#6
JARJOZ Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Medinah IL. Posts: 65	Goniopora: Daisy or Flowerpot Coral Family: Poritidae Genus: Goniopora by Sara Bertolino Coral Overview Goniopora spp. "daisy" or "flowerpot" corals have been common imports from Indonesia and other coral-collecting regions since the early years of the reef-keeping hobby. Alveopora spp. are less-frequently harvested relatives of Goniopora spp. These distinct genera are often grouped together by aquarists because they have similarly elongate polyps with daisy-like heads. The difference is that the petal-like tentacles in Goniopora number 24 and in Alveopora there are just 12. (Julian Sprung) In reviewing numerous articles on this coral, it is most likely wrong to generalize that all Goniopora are difficult to keep. Please do note that this is not a beginner's coral and is better left at the LFS than in your tank if you have not done your homework on its requirements. As Fin and Feather states in the Advanced Aquarist Online Magazine, "dozens of people around the country and the world have been successful with these corals for many years, some as long as nine years and longer. The ability to share with fellow aquarists frags from these long-term colonies will help ensure the establishment of captive strains of Goniopora . Many people have also successfully grown daughter colonies dropped by the parent colony." With that being said, I believe the future of keeping Gonioporas in our reef aquariums will become a reality for the many that admire this coral. The range of desired flow, food, and light needs differs among the many species of Goniopora . Some grow quite large and a mature colony may look like a colony of Porites from a distance. Others have short polyps and are encrusting. Still others are free living on soft substrates. The different species have polyps of different shapes and colors which allow them to be identified underwater. Placement Many state that more success is found with placement on the substrate. It is not the substrate itself that benefits the coral, but the less-intense water flow and less-direct light. I have kept the pinks in the substrate, but the dark red one has been placed up near the top on my rocks when I had less lighting and it was not hit with direct flow. All of my Goniopora's currently reside in my substrate and that is where they will stay due to my lighting and flow. They are located just 24 in. from (2) 250-W metal-halide lights with 20K XM bulbs. I also supplement with daylight VHOs. The tank was also originally set up as an SPS tank, so it also has moderate to high flow with a Tunze 6000. The first link listed below is to the Advance Aquarist, which has detailed information for each variety of Goniopora and its placement for light and flow. Feeding I currently do not target feed my Goniopora's. I feed daily with Rod's Food which has small foods that the Goniopora eats such as Cyclop-eeze, rotifers and DT's oyster eggs. I also dose a capful of DT's Live Marine Phytoplankton-Premium Reef Blend every other day. I also try and feed live baby brine shrimp every other week. I do have a jar of DT's oyster eggs in the freezer just waiting to be used. Per DT's website: " Corals for which this food is particularly useful are those with poor prey capture responses and those with very small polyps. Included are Porites , Montipora , Goniopora , gorgonians, soft corals. The oyster eggs even show success with the maintenance of previously difficult or impossible to maintain azooxanthellate soft corals and seafans. DT's Live Marine Phytoplankton - Premium Reef Blend naturally provides needed nutrition for your reef inhabitants, through both directly feeding some reef inhabitants and indirectly feeding others by increasing their food supply. There is evidence that soft corals, along with Goniopora and gorgonians may also benefit from the direct consumption of phytoplankton." I also run a 70-gal refugium with a deep sand bed and the use of these methods also encourage the growth of a variety of small zooplankton and plankton-producing organisms (by spawning, larvae in water column).

10/06/2010, 11:08 AM	#7
rogersb Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: white haven Posts: 1,135	I have heard the red ones like more light so I placed one midway in my tank under 4x54 t5 and within a couple of days all polyps had fallen off the skeleton. I tried moving it down but it did not save the few that were left. I ordered mine from Dr F&S LADD and thought it would be bullet proof. To do it again I would only buy one I could physically see first and verify the health of the coral.

10/06/2010, 12:04 PM	#8
sacremon Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Atlanta Posts: 446 Blog Entries: 29	Color is irrelevant. The concern is the species, which may or may not be all that easy to determine. As far as needing pristine water, I think that is an excuse devised by someone who found that they could not keep theirs alive. Goniopora are predominantly found in lagoon environments - very nutrient rich, often to the point of being turbid. Not exactly what I would call pristine. I have seen suggestions of having them in a tank that does not have a skimmer, so that plankton is not removed from the water. That is probably a very good idea. http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2005/10/aafeature2

10/06/2010, 03:07 PM	#10
ramtmac Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 407	I started a thread about my new one and got some good feedback. I have had mine for I guess a month. No new polyps, that I can see. But the extension has increased and there has been no signs of decline. need new lights and haven't tried any direct feeding yet so that's probably why there isn't any new growth.. I have Kept my water a little "dirtier" to keep elements in the water which I have understood as essential. (This has been a struggle b.c of my bta who likes pristine water). Check out my thread there were some great links and advice. I'm still learning too..

10/06/2010, 04:10 PM	#12
mscarpena Registered Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Buffalo, New York Posts: 1,924	Your response is very difficult. Need a lot of food and specialized care.

10/06/2010, 04:20 PM	#13
poolkeeper1 Moved On Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Spring Hill, TN Posts: 4,674	Long term success with these corals are not good, Most die within a year of being in captivity. That being said it's best to leave them in the ocean JMO. The Problem is no one knows for sure the feeding habits of these beautiful corals and they slowly starve to death. Bill

10/06/2010, 04:57 PM	#14
Sheol Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Waxahachie, Tx. Posts: 3,610	Some say they need iodine supplements to increase the chances of survival.., probably true. Pristine water is a crock, though. People who have kept them longer than a year or year & a half have found Protein Skimmers to be a negative factor. They need nutrient rich water & VERY small plankton for success. IMHO, best left in the Ocean unless they are frags from a long-term surviving colony (2+ years MINIMUM). This coral is notorious for appearing to thrive for many months & then crashing almost overnight. Matthew

10/06/2010, 05:01 PM	#15
Emerald525 Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 101	The new coral magazine talks about corals and feeding and there is some good information about goniopora explaining why they often do not do well in captivity.

10/06/2010, 05:06 PM	#16
reefer4ever Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 39	I have had a green goniopora for about 8 weeks under regular stocklighting and it has doubled in size. Mine is great! The polyps extend about 2.5 inches!

10/07/2010, 12:50 PM	#19
RobMcC Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 35	I've had a red one with yellow centres for about 10 months now. in that time it has only maybe doubled in number of polyps, but at least it is growing. I do not skim and have loads of plankton coming from refugium.

10/07/2010, 05:07 PM	#20
Sheol Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Waxahachie, Tx. Posts: 3,610	Please note! 8 Weeks & 3 months in no way equals success with Gonis! These corals are notorius for appearing to thrive for a year or more.. Then they crash, RTN appears, soon you have a skeleton only. Aside from that issue, they are EXTREMELY prone to Brown Jelly infections. Any mechanical injury can cause it, like hermit crabs walking on them. Clownfish trying to host in them will also kill them. Matthew

10/07/2010, 05:14 PM	#21
stephenrsaiz Moved On Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 314	I have the reds with yellow polyps, and sporadic flecks of white on the polyps. They are beautiful. I've had mine for about two years. Pristine water cannot be what mine needs. On the contrary, I have a heavy bio load, and feed my fish well. I keep mine to the side of the tank about 24" below a 400 watt MH. It has grown slow, but very well ever since I've had it. I've never had any issues with any sort of declining health with mine. Im sure parameters play a role as well. I keep my alk and calc very stable, and my temperature too. That being said, your mileage may vary. :-)

10/08/2010, 04:59 PM	#23
Sheol Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Waxahachie, Tx. Posts: 3,610	Remove the fish or remove the coral, STAT! Personally, I'd like to strangle the person who invented "Reef Safe" which means only that a fish WON'T eat coral. Clowns are the biggest PITAs in this hobby! Matthew

10/10/2010, 07:14 AM	#25
elegance coral They call me EC Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: central Florida Posts: 6,208	I had a green gonni for 10 or 15 years. IMHO, its all about food. Without adequate food they go downhill in a hurry. Back then, they had a product like those fresh water feeder blocks you drop in the tank when you go on vacation, but these were designed for filter feeders. I knew when it was time to replace the block because the gonni's expansion would decrease. I also fed it my own blender mush. It grew to about half the size of a basket ball and dropped little ones all the time.