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01/04/2017, 08:11 PM | #1 |
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Help! My parameters are fine but everything seems to be dying!
So I just recently purchased a two head frag of frogspawn a few days ago and since I've had it it hasn't expanded. My parameters are perfect.
pH - 8.3 Ammonia - 0 Nitrite - 0 Nitrate - Around 10 ppm Phosphate - Close to undetectable Cal - 440-450 Alk - 10 dKH Salinity - From 1.023 - 1.026 I started to notice the tissue around the base of the skeleton also starting to peel in the last few days and the head hasn't fully expanded. For some reason even under pretty good conditions none of my coral have been looking happy. Even the GSP won't come out only showing the purple mat at all times of the day. Ironically the only thing I've seen with polyps extended and fairly colorful would be my birdsnest. Another problem I have is that my Monti caps are turning very light pink and putting out stringy slime often so that worries me. I can't think of anything that could be wrong with the water to cause this and am looking for a second opinion from more experienced reefers. I did just recently dose a small amount of Calc and Alk about a week ago and Magnesium at the same time. I've noticed that neither Cal or Alk are being consumed over the course of the whole week after the initial dose. Could this mean my Mag levels are still too low? I've been told that it could be a lighting issue so in my 6 bulb t5 fixture I took out 2 bulbs and left 2 ATI Actinics, 1 Geissman Actinic+, and One Coral Plus. Another thing I've been told is that only being up for a month my tank could be "too clean" as my Phosphates are almost 0. I'm very worried I'm close to a complete crash only a month in and really need help. |
01/04/2017, 08:45 PM | #2 |
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Only a month old? How big is your tank? What's in it for fish? The salinity varies from 1.023 to 1.026?
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01/04/2017, 09:00 PM | #3 |
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Corals like stability. Some more than others.
A salinity swing of 0.03 will upset a lot of types of corals. It will sometimes take a while for newly added corals to acclimate to your tank water. A few days is not that long. As for your parameters being perfect, they are close but phosphate is measured in the 0.0* ppm so it needs to be exact. Alk of 10 is on the high side. And salinity swing is not a sign of perfect parameters Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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01/04/2017, 09:14 PM | #4 | |
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What size tank? What fish? What filtration do you have?
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01/04/2017, 10:56 PM | #6 | |
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01/04/2017, 11:19 PM | #7 |
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That sure is a lot of fish for only a month old tank. You need to slowly add fish after the cycle as your bacteria will peak very high and then go low. So adding too much at one time will not be good. Are you sure the Ammonia is 0 also? What are the fish acting like? Labor breathing or any signs of stress?
Alk does seem high and the salinity swings aren't good. |
01/05/2017, 12:10 AM | #9 |
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Hi! I am sorry you are having tank problems.....I also agree with all of the above responses....but yea my concern is your salinity of 1.023 to 1.026....stability is key...and salinity is no exception.....do you use a refractometer? How often do you check your salinity? Salinity that fluctuates like that can stress out corals...inverts....and fish.
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01/05/2017, 03:10 AM | #10 | |
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01/05/2017, 03:14 AM | #11 | |
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01/05/2017, 03:17 AM | #12 | |
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01/05/2017, 05:09 AM | #13 | |
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01/05/2017, 05:37 AM | #14 |
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You don't need to spend anything on a refractometer. They are only marginally better than a 'calibrated' hydrometer. Hydrometers are not accurate, but they are absolutely reliable IMHO. Find the error rate of your hydrometer, marking on the side and it will never change.
Refractometers can be calibrated and adjusted using a calibration fluid. Hydrometers have no adjustments at all. So take your hydrometer to the LFS or a friend with a refractometer. Have them calibrate their refractometer and then test the water with both tools. The refractometer should be quite accurate. The hydrometer could be high or low as they are not adjustable. But whatever that error is, 0.010 too low or 0.005 too high... whatever it is, label that on your hydrometer and use it to correct the readings you get from now on. You test your water and it's 1.023. Then add or subtract the error rate. Say your hydrometer reads 0.004 to low. Then add 0.004 to the 1.023 and the real level is 1.027. It's that simple. I used to use a refractometer all the time. Then I started using both just to compare because a friend asked me to. The very first time I did, my hydrometer read 0.004 too low. So I get a reading and add 0.004. Every 3 months for the next couple of years I'd calibrate my refractometer and compare the two again. Every time the hydrometer was 0.004 too low. It never changes. Now I only check it when I'm helping somebody else 'calibrate' their hydrometer. And now, 6 years later, it's still 0.004 too low. My refractometer mostly just sits in it's case collecting dust. For me the hydrometer is just easier to use, I couldn't care less about the cost.
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01/05/2017, 11:46 AM | #15 | |
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I would make sure all new 6 bulbs are newer and add them in now. The par wont be that high to bleach the corals. I also would not add any alk supplement till it gets closer to 8 and then keep it at that level as stable as possible without a dosing pump. Can you post some pictures? We would be able to help a lot more
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01/05/2017, 07:19 PM | #16 | |
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I hope these will help. |
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01/06/2017, 06:59 AM | #17 |
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thanks for the pictures. youve got a good setup going along.
so as I stated above, I would have all 6 T5s running. How much flow do you have? Those look like some smaller powerheads, may have to add more flow. The rock still looks very very new. Are you sure you had your cycle, like you had an algae break out, etc?
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01/06/2017, 01:05 PM | #18 | |
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01/06/2017, 01:26 PM | #19 | |
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in my 180, granted it is all SPS with a couple anemones but I have 2 gyre 150s, 2 rw15s plus my return which is another 1000+ gph. So all together I would say I have around 20,000 gph which is around a 100 turnover. So for you that would be around 3000 GPH. Again that is just something to think of and you have to make sure you have your powerheads placed good so theyre not blasting the corals straight on. (I had that problem and lost a big colony by accident) There could be a whole bunch of things of why it isnt doing it. But first and foremost I would add those T5s', make sure you keep your salinity stable and let alk drop to around 8 and then keep it there. stable is the most important things for corals.
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01/06/2017, 08:59 PM | #20 | |
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01/06/2017, 11:13 PM | #21 |
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Welcome to the club
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01/07/2017, 03:52 AM | #22 | |
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01/07/2017, 06:45 AM | #23 | |
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The main thing has already been said...stability. A reef tank will run better at poor parameters that are constant and steady better than one who has perfect, then not so perfect, then perfect, then not so perfect. Salinity changes are by far the easiest of all the parameters to keep constant. So figure that out and your probably going to be good to go. Keep your water changes spaced out evenly. Don't do one this week, 2 next week, then wait a month and do a big change because its been a while. Keep it scheduled. Not saying that's what you doing, but just a thought to keep in mind for the future. Try taking your filter sock off if you remove your sump sand. Unless you change that out every other other day, it's not helping. Even then some will say not to use one. Do you have a regular thermometer? If that sticker one is old, it could be off. Take that sand out of your sump. Doesn't look clean. Trapping all kinds of junk down there. That will only help you situation. Use that space as a settling chamber to get rid of detritus. That sounded kind of mean...sorry. not trying to be. Just trying to help so you don't get frustrated and give up. Last edited by rygar; 01/07/2017 at 06:59 AM. |
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01/07/2017, 12:14 PM | #24 | |
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01/08/2017, 04:27 AM | #25 | |
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coral, crash, frogspawn, reef |
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