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Old 10/13/2007, 05:30 AM   #801
GoldStripe
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Go for it joeyg4583, it's a bit intimidating / nerve racking at first but that quickly goes away.


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Old 10/14/2007, 12:25 AM   #802
bigbris1
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Thanks mainly to the great experience on this thread, I successfully drilled my Oceanic 40L today & plumbed it for a 13G custom acrylic sump. Everythings up & running, a bit noisy but running. Thanks!


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Old 10/14/2007, 10:58 AM   #803
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JustOneMoreTank has truly added to the average hobbyist's experience by starting this thread. Money saved by drilling tanks can now be spent on something else!

Drilling glass seems so daunting before you do it, but it's actually very simple!

bigbris1- When you say "noisy", where is the noise coming from? Is it just the noise of water running, or does it actually sound like a toilet?


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Old 10/16/2007, 02:30 PM   #804
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Just put my order in for drill bits. I'm going to drill my 40bdr. Pray for me


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Old 10/19/2007, 11:51 AM   #805
Onealjc
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I have a 75g AGA not reef ready, how many holes will I need in for a fuge one hole for outgoing water and one for incoming correct? Also where should I place the holes the bottom or top of the tank, and what bulk head sizes will I need.

Sorry for the newb questions, first big tank.


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Old 10/19/2007, 05:03 PM   #806
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Quote:
[i]

bigbris1- When you say "noisy", where is the noise coming from? Is it just the noise of water running, or does it actually sound like a toilet? [/B]
Actually, my Quiet One 3000 was running louder than usual due to it's sucking in air from one of the connections-fixed with a small rubber band. Now it's as quiet as can be expected (just the sound of water running from the small hole in the durso).


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Old 11/01/2007, 06:25 AM   #807
danthemanj
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I need some advice on drilling a 215 gallon Oceanic Ultimate tank. The tank is going to go in teh wall with the left and front of the tank viewable. I am planning on installing an Oceans Motions 4-way on teh tank and intend on bringing in the plumbing through the right glass pane. I will also be building an internal overflow on the right side pane from the top to bottom. Here is a link to a pic of the intended setup. In the pic, I am bringing in the return for the OM from the top through the floor of the Overflow and out through the bottom over the sand bed. this would need me to make several bends in the plmubing, hence increase head loss. Would it be OK to drill 4 holes about 2-3 inches from the bottom of the tank and bring in the OM through bulkheads through those holes? I will have 3 additional 1.5 inch bulkheads on the same pane of glass. 2 will be for the over flow and the 3rd will be for the feed to teh Dart pump I intend on running the OM on. I'm sceptical about the structural integrity of the glass pane with so many holes. It is 1/2 inch thick glass.

Link to image:

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/e...gLayout_v2.jpg


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Old 11/01/2007, 07:35 AM   #808
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I have no advice on your question, but you might want to post this in its own thread (if you haven't already) for greater visibility.


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Old 11/01/2007, 11:13 AM   #809
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Hm. I think the four holes at the bottom might be too low. You are certainly endangering the structural integrity by having so many holes at the bottom. Any reason you can't use the long side that will be hidden?

The other issue is the number of bends you have. I would not recommend any drum for the oceans motions other than version 3. The other drums may not work with the resistance it will be facing.

Yet another thing to consider is another 1.5" drain to the Dart so there isn't as much suction on your current drain. If for any reason a fish gets caught on it or it gets clogged, you won't have any backup to supply your closed loop.


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Old 11/10/2007, 12:54 AM   #810
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I want to drill a couple of 15mm holes into a 4mm thick glass (1/8 inch - i think) sump for two horizontal level switches. Is this glass too thin to try to drill or is it just the same process all be it a little quicker. I figure the holes i am drilling will be small so they should not put too much strain on the glass.


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Old 11/23/2007, 11:21 PM   #811
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Hi, all.

i dove in tonight after reading through this thread. I am in the process of setting up (eventually in the end when all is said and done) 3 different tanks(have the tanks and most of the equipment, and one is near operational).

Anyways, i decided it was time to stop being chicken and just do this already. So tonight i drilled my first holes in one of the tanks. The tank is an AGA 33g Long (48x12x12).

This is going to be my red scooter blenny/macro algae tank with sump(s). Anyways, i planned on setting it up like Halophila's macro tank except where he has the liverock in the basket, I would have my drain/return going to my sump.

Here is an example of Halophila's tank.
[IMG]http://*******.com/6nw2fo.jpg[/IMG]


So i drilled a hole for the 1 inch drain and 3/4 inch return using the information on page 1 with the ebay diamond hole saws. The first hole came out close to perfect...but it took me almost 2 hours. Determined to finish this tonight, i started on hole 2 with alittle more speed and let the weight of the drill drive the progress rather than me supporting it like the first time. Everything was going good and i looked underneath to see if the saw had started making an outline in the ducktape i had applied (several strips all overlapping each other in the center for the most support) and i saw that it had. i slowly started to peel it off and i heard that glass cracking sound. Ugh, so it has a small flake on the inside.

I know that was long but i just wanted to say thanks for all the great advice. if i wasn't so impatient i would have 2 perfect holes instead.

Should i worry about the little flake that occured? is that going to be an issue later down the road as in a stress crack developing there?

Anyways, thanks again. Tomorrow i am going to take some sand paper and wetsand the holes to clean them up a bit.


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Old 11/24/2007, 07:34 AM   #812
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The "flake" probably won't be an issue. Does the bulkhead gasket cover it? if so no problem. If not reverse the bulkhead so the gasket is on the good side and it will be fine.
Honestly I can't imagine 2 hours to drill a hole, IME it takes maybe 1/2 hour setup to cleanup.... I've never tried tape on the back side but I do kind of like the idea.
I like the example tank you showed that looks like a great 'fuge!
Tim


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Old 11/24/2007, 10:39 AM   #813
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I was planning on 10-30 minutes tops per hole. I have a feeling a bulk of that time was me dirlling nothing as i think i went through long before but was waiting for some significant sign that I had, like cutting through the tape or something.

The flake isn't too big, but i don't have the bulkheads yet to test fit. I'd imagine it would be fine, i just was more worried about a crack forming.

Oh, and Halophila's tank is awsome. Thats an older pic of it but i really like the long shallow tank with side overflow vs the standard back wall style.


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Old 11/24/2007, 11:50 AM   #814
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When I cut my holes a few weeks ago the first one flaked out like that too. For the second hole, I put tape over the area I was cutting. Next, I taped a piece of plywood over the hole. This helped the tape from flexing which allowed the flaking to occur.

The second hole came out PERFECT!


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Old 11/25/2007, 01:53 AM   #815
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justone, beautiful gray ghost


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Old 12/09/2007, 01:02 AM   #816
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Just for info Perfecto/Marineland/Aqua-Tech 10 gallon tanks are all tempered glass. Just busted the side out of one trying to drill it.


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Old 12/10/2007, 05:42 PM   #817
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Rivdog... Thanks!
Glad everyone is still finding this thread useful.


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Old 12/25/2007, 10:48 PM   #818
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So I figured id post up my success story. After reading this thread over and over and finally getting around to ordering some cheap-o bits from that ebay guy people recommend here, I drilled out 3 one and a half holes on the bottom of my tank. One return and 2 for drain (herbie overflow)


Here`s some pics... all I can say is if you pound a beer right before you do it to calm your nerves everything will go fine

Tools used:
- milwaukee cordless drill on high speed (im possitive anyting that turns the bit will work just fine)
- Plumbers Toilet bowl setting ring thing to hold water. Worked great in retaining water and easily moved from hole to hole, and cost me a whole 0.88 cents at home depot
- 45mm glass cutting bit purchased from the ebay guy many people recommend in this thread
- One can of molson pilsner for the nerves.







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Old 12/26/2007, 03:34 PM   #819
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Nice job.


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Old 12/26/2007, 05:57 PM   #820
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I think this thread should be a sticky on the top. btw GREAT thread JustOneMoreTank


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Old 01/28/2008, 06:36 PM   #821
Budde
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How do I find out if all of the walls are Tempered?


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Old 01/28/2008, 10:44 PM   #822
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Contacting the manufacturer is the safe bet. I once took a piece of glass top to a glass company, the owner had a pen sized tool that he scratched on the piece to determine if it was tempered. I have no idea what that tool was.
I'm on RC occasionally but did not find this thread till tonight. Within the last 3 weeks I have:
Ordered a stainless bit with carbide compound only to find it didn't give me the cutting confidence I desired.
Waited for my $80 USA made bit to arrive.
Cut four holes, with the last one being near perfect.
Upon removing the plywood jig I used managed to drop a C clamp and break my tank.
My stupidity knows no bounds.
Great thread guys!


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Old 03/13/2008, 09:36 PM   #823
socalchris
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I just drilled my tank and got some small chippage/flake on the inside of the tank....the holes themselves though are pretty perfect looking...just the inside rim area...can anyone look at these pics and let me know what they think? I'd really appreciate it.










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Old 03/13/2008, 09:45 PM   #824
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Just go slower next time. On those, put silicone on the bulkhead (slip gasket all the way to the top first than put a 1/4" bead of silicone after the gasket all the way around the flange) and after tightening the bulkhead, let the silicone dry for 24 hours. Shouldn't leak.


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Old 03/13/2008, 10:07 PM   #825
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Okay, just so I'm clear, I'll use the pic below...same bulkheads I got from savko:



the gasket (obviously the black ring towards the bottom) gets the silicone on the flat side? and the flat side goes against the inside of the tank right? what exactly is the flange on a bulkhead? is it the top piece in the pic? the one that screws onto the back of the bulkhead outside of the tank?


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