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12/11/2003, 11:45 AM | #76 |
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Thanks for the Stockman standpipe. I used the original design and works great. Since the tank is in the den where we spend most of our time it is a godsend.
I actually made two. I have a 1" bulkhead opening and my first used 1" thinwall. The second was with 1.25" piping. All other components were the same except the 1.25" to 1" reducer and 1.25" cap for the second. I had a little bit of trouble getting enough flow for my Mag12 return with the 1". The 1.25 inch pipe allowed me to open the side intels more since the difference between the 2" coupling and 1.25" diameter pipe would prevent things that may clog the bulkhead opening from entry. I get excellent flow with the 1.25" pipe. A little better than the 1". So maybe the principle of the Durso "I don't know why it [.25" difference] works" also applies?
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12/11/2003, 03:55 PM | #77 |
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tbooher--
Where is the bulkhead in the tank--on the bottom or on the side of the tank? Either way this idea will work, but it might be easier if the bulkhead is on the bottom. Make my design then buy a 4" PVC endcap and use a hole saw to drill a hole in the end cap the diameter of the pipe. THe pipe that leads to the drain that is. Slide the endcap over the inner standpipe so that it is facing up--like a cup--to the point where the bottom of the cup come up to about 1/2" from the bottom edge of the coupling fitting. You might have to use a dremel tool to get the endcap to fit over the pipe--you want a snuggle fit. I would consider gluing the seal between the endcap and the pipe. The endcap will act as an internal overflow box, so you will get the desired surface skimming. Put the pipe back in place so that the top edge of the endcap is where you want the water level. Does this make any sense? I know a picture is worth a thousand words, but I don't have one handy. I use this approach for my refugium. I have water drain in from the main tank to the refugium, then water exits through this type of overflow/standpipe to the sump. It has worked well for over two years now. If you do a search on my posts, then you will find a picture because I have posted it. |
12/11/2003, 04:16 PM | #78 |
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The bulkhead is on the bottom of the tank. I actually made a durso last night and it is working very well so I may stick with it for now. I do however like the fact that yours are more compact but since my overflow is exposed, size isn't really an issue.
Thanks |
12/11/2003, 05:41 PM | #79 |
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the difference between 1 inch and 1.25 inch diameter pipes is that 1.25" pipes have 36% larger intake area. And that's a lot!
area of a circle = 3.14 * (d^2)/4 where d is diameter (or "pi r squared") (unless my math is wrong, which is likely) V
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12/11/2003, 07:16 PM | #80 |
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How tall should the standpipe be? My tank is 23" H and the top of the overflow is 22" H. I see on the durso website they say have the water level in the overflow about 2" below the main tank. Is this also true with a Stockman?
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12/11/2003, 07:56 PM | #81 |
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I made mine last night and installed but it had a terrible sucking noise through the cap and no matter what I did I could not get rid of the noise. I have a 1" bulkhead that and the pipe was 22" for a 24" tall tank. The overflow goes down to my sump and the pipe goes about 1 1/2" to 2" below the water level in my sump. I am running a Little Giant 3mdq-sc and pumping about 850 gph through the pump. I had to put the Durso back on and it does not sound bad but was hoping for a more compact and like the idea that it is a 1" pipe all the way to the sump.
What am I doing wrong that I get the terrible air sucking noise. I cut all but three of the braces like you. Thanks |
12/12/2003, 06:37 AM | #82 |
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I bought the parts but it didn't work because I was not able to get the correct parts. The 2" to 1" reducer had the fluted section on the opposite side and my rig did not work.....Like everyone said, HD sucks and I don't have a Lowes around here. So I built the Durso and its working so far....Thanks for everyone’s help....
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12/12/2003, 09:09 AM | #83 | |
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Quote:
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12/13/2003, 07:16 AM | #84 |
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I have yet to figure out why the pipe works on some tanks and not on others. It may have to do with the plumbing to the sump and back pressure.
I have made my design (original) for about 20 people so far and I have had numerous people contact me directly. Very few people have had a problem--actually I can think of only one person off hand. |
12/13/2003, 01:58 PM | #85 |
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If I play with the drain into my sump I might be able to eliminate the sucking noise? My drain is 1" flexible pvc and it goes into the sump about 1-2". What do you think I should do to see if I can get rid of the sucking noise? I would be willing to try stuff if I knew where to start.
Thsnks |
12/15/2003, 04:30 PM | #86 |
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first I would put the drain deeper into the sump.
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12/15/2003, 04:35 PM | #87 |
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Any idea if these parts are availible in dark gray PVC (sch. 80, usually)? I have an AGA tank that sits in the middle of a room as a room divider, and my overflow is visible, so something other than white is desirable. I have a reducer and cap with holes drilled in it right now, but am tired of the intermittent noise from it. I'd like to try the new design, but may just wind up blacking out the overflow compartment if it needs to be made from white pipe.
-Ron |
12/15/2003, 04:49 PM | #88 |
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All the parts are available in gray sch. 80. Also www.customaquatics.com carries almost all PVC fitting in black sch.40.
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12/15/2003, 04:58 PM | #89 | |
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Quote:
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12/29/2003, 10:27 PM | #90 |
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I am considering making a stockman standpipe for my loud overflow. The question I have concerns the size of the standpipe. Looking at your plans you mention a 12†piece of 1†PVC, my overflow is rather small (see attachment) and the total depth is only 8". Any suggestions as to how I can fit one of these in my tank? Has anyone else succesfully used this standpipe with a similar overflow?
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12/29/2003, 10:31 PM | #91 |
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The height of the overflow can be whatever works for you. Look at Stockmans website or do a search here for stockman standpipe. His latest design is very compact and will fit in your hang on overflow just fine.
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12/30/2003, 06:12 AM | #92 |
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My design was originally designed for my HOB overflows. THe hieght of the first pipe that I made was only 4" tall. They worked like a charm on the first shot.
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12/30/2003, 10:07 AM | #93 |
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I just built the "new" stockman overflow for my first acrylic project, an overflow box that fits with an eclipse hood. Works like a charm. Thanks Ken.
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01/13/2004, 06:22 PM | #94 |
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ok I just rigged up the stockman for my lifereef 700gph.. it does reduce the noise some, but it's still pretty loud. I'm wondering if I have the pipe going up too far in the box? The endcap is about 2" below the top of the outside overflow box. I drilled several holes in the pipe (will do the mitered thing later) and two small holes in the endcap. It was loud, so I drilled another, then another hole in the endcap-still loud. So I put my finger over a couple of the holes and it was very little bit quieter, so I glued two of the holes shut. But it's still really loud.
My drain goes about 1-2" below surface water in the sump. I raised and lowered it, no change, so I put it back to the 1-2" level. I was thinking I might should cut some more of the PVC to bring the standpipe lower into the box? thx for the great idea.. cordell |
01/13/2004, 06:27 PM | #95 |
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oh, here it is..
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01/16/2004, 05:04 PM | #96 |
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so what the heck do you do if your bulkhead is 1.5" ???
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01/16/2004, 06:15 PM | #97 | |
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I have a 75 gallon tank with a 1.5" drain
I guess I found my answer Quote:
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01/16/2004, 10:55 PM | #98 |
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Web site address
I am sorry, Ken do you have a web site? I have dursos and they are still kind of loud.
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01/16/2004, 10:57 PM | #99 |
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Nevr mind
I found it, just read down your posts a little further.
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01/16/2004, 11:08 PM | #100 |
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here are some pics of a 1-1/2" version, but with a screw cap!
3" to 1-1/2" reduction fitting (3" side cut off) 3" coupling fitting (threaded side has a notch cut) 3" cap (threaded) loosten the cap to increase airflow |
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