The New Capn's Log Book-sites of interest on RC

[IridescentLily]

Bumping up from page 5...
I love the soap holder idea for the cheato!

[Aquarist007]

Paul's Algae Trough

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...711320&page=32

[Aquarist007]

Reducing Phosphates and Nitrates:

Your nitrates are high. Assuming you are runnign a FOWLR, your biggest worry will be algae growth and possibly bacterial blooms.

If you want to grow corals this level will be a definite concern. Usually with your nitrate level, you will have elevated phosphate levels as well. High phosphate levels will retard the growth of coralline algae that you may want to grow on your live rock, providing the light is good.

The typical list for reducing phosphate and nitrate in your system:
1) Reduce your fish feeding habits (#1 offender by most hobbyists)
2) Proper skimming (wet skimming helps)
3) Install a refugium with macro & possibly a deep sand bed
4) Sulfate reactor for reducing nitrates.
5) Run GFO for reducing phosphates.
6) Dose a carbon source like vodka.

These articles have more information:

Phosphate and the Reef Aquarium
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php

Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issu...t2003/chem.htm

Cliff Babcock


http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1624095


1. If sand bed is shallow (but not deep), stir it twice weekly and before water changes to get debris into column to be fliterer out by mechanical filtration.
2. Blast live rock with turkey blaster or powerhead twice weekly and before water changes.
3. Change sump socks DAILY. (Trade out old wet dry filter with a sock assembly if you are still using wet/dry). Also rinse out any other sponge material daily which traps debris (or simply dispose of such sponges).
4. Use carbon in a phosban reactor and change every 2-4 weeks, depending on load. (probably 4 weeks).
5. Use phos remover (GFO) in a phosban reactor and change every couple months or as indicated by test kit.
6. Get your PO4 tested by a decent probe instead of the chemical test kits.
7. Water changes every 2 weeks (20% or so).
8. Use agressive skimming. Contact ichythings.com to get a GOOD cone skimmer (better than Euroreef in my opinion).
9. If you don't have your own DI/RO water filter, invest in one as it will save you much time, gas, and headaches.
10. Daily cleaning (or frequent) of the skimmer, especially the neck.
11. Daily dosing, frequent testing to verify dosing levels of Ca, Alk, and Magnesium.
12. +1 above on adding a refugium, deep sand bed/plenum, denitrator (sulfer)

TriggersAmuck

[Aquarist007]

Here is the link to Randy's chemistry articles--enough reading for years to come

http://archive.reefcentral.com/forum...hreadid=102605

[Aquarist007]

Kids and aquariums. As a grandfather and father I always enjoyed this thread

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1401603

Perhaps someone would like to revive it

[Aquarist007]

This thread is all about Tangs

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...5&pagenumber=1

[Aquarist007]

A Pole Feeder for Tangs
A piece of pvc pipe and some elastics will secure the romaine or nori so it doesn't mess up the tank or end up clogging filters and pumps

[Aquarist007]

When it comes time to remove or catch a fish it can be a real pain
This thread was loaded with ideas for catching fish

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=707656



Anthony Calfo from the above cited thread

[Aquarist007]

A great resource site on Fish Diseases and Treatment

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/fres...m#MarineVelvet

[Aquarist007]

A great resource for idenfying fish inverts and algae

http://www.reefcorner.com/specimen_Sheets.htm

[ohclereef01]

Awesome thread! Learning a great deal, Thanks Cap'n! Poked around on the fuge thread you had linked.. WOW! Split more than a couple times loaded with great info! Thanks!

[Aquarist007]

Vodka dosing:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1607249

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1589131

[Aquarist007]

Estimating fish sizes in captivity:

Here is a great article/study an estimating maximum sizes of fish in captivity:
http://microcosmaqx.typepad.com/jay_...tion-tool.html

its great if used in conjuction with this enormus data base on fish:

http://www.fishbase.org/search.php

and a discussion on this thread
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...1#post14937321
Jay also posted this on another thread:

Mattl wrote:

"There is no study showing that tangs tend to hang in one corner of a small tank where the food is. That was one person's observation, and a person known for conclusions that deviate greatly from the body of general hobby experience."

Hmmm, by any chance are you discussing ME? If not, then please pardon me, but if so, I would obviously take exception to that statement and want like clear a few things up;

I never said that the blue tang that I developed the ethogram for stayed in one place due to food, just that it did (still does actually). It was subsequently discussed in full in an article on hepatus tangs that I wrote for FAMA in their June 2009 issue.

Regarding the final report of my "fish swimming space" project - I just signed a contract with PFK for it, but no publication date has been set yet.

Evidently, the editors of these two magazines do not share your opinion about the "deviation" of my conclusions....

Finally, FWIW, here is my op-ed piece on the "tang police". In it you'll see that I do not disagree so much with the message as with the way it is sometimes delivered...

http://microcosmaqx.typepad.com/jay...ang-police.html


Thanks for keeping an open mind on this folks!


Jay

IMO the two articles go hand in hand and relieve some of the pressure and delima for new reefers like myself with keeping tangs. I know I have sweat buckets over not being able to upgrade my tank because of some bad finicial things happening to my wife and I.

sorry here is the reference thread---I just don't like the title of the thread so I thought it prudent to discuss it here
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1628986

[Aquarist007]

very picture intense thread on leather corals:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...readid=1582837

[Aquarist007]

Cooking Live Rock

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.

The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.

So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.

Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.
Here are the steps:

1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:

Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.

Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.

And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.

From this thread:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...5&pagenumber=2

[Aquarist007]

Ammonia Alert

Here is a great indicator for use in quarantine tanks


http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...87&pcatid=4387

[Aquarist007]

Leaving for a Vacation
Here are some great ideas
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...5#post13103135

[Aquarist007]

LPS and soft coral dominant tanks

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1236242

SPS coral dominant tanks

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1053276

[Aquarist007]

How to Mod a Koralia Power Head

post earlier on in the thread by Foreigner

"Give you an idea if you have an sps tank or like tons of flow. Purchase a regular Koralia #4 and also purchase the algae free maxijet upgrade. Once you get them, look in the maxijet upgrade kit and you will see a magnet, and 2 impellers. Grab the large white impeller and pop it out, turn it upside down and place back into the shaft. This is done to reverse the way the impeller will flow since the Koralia magnets and the maxijet kits upgrades are made to rotate in opposite directions...reversing the impeller assures the pump will start rotating in the right direction. The impeller is set by pressure just make sure you push it all the way in. After this little reversal is done, simply replace the stock koralia impeller...keep the koralia metal shaft! and insert the maxijet kit magnet along with the white impeller you just reversed. Replace the koralia cover and submerge in water at least 3 inches. You will be insane at the amount of flow this produces, I would say around 2000+ gph...I did this with 2 koralia 4's and they have been running for 2 months and stop and start with no problem...just do not use on a timer or wavemaker...absolutely no tools necessary, the impeller pops out with prssure from your fingers, just be careful not to brake any of the blades.
This produces equal flow of TUNZE pumps and even vortec at a fraction of the cost...HOWEVER, MAKE SURE YOU USE THE ALGAE FREE maxijet upgrade. Good Luck "

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...1#post13043781

[Aquarist007]

some show off threads

Butterflys and Angels
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1434310

Anthias

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=990441

Clams

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1290440

Whole tank shots

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...5&pagenumber=1

Elegance corals

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1284861

Aussi Acans

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1278255

Favia corals

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1219444

Open Brains

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ght=lps+corals

Agressive Fish

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...readid=1342332

[Aquarist007]

How to Dip Corals
Thanks to Melev for this detailed answer

No matter what I get, it goes into my quarantine tank first for a 12 hour bath in Interceptor. One tablet can handle 400g, so I crush it up and use a small amount in the quarantine tank. One tablet can dose that tank five or six times using the tiny Salifert spoon from one of my old test kits. Just mix it up in a cup of tank water until it is completely dissolved, and pour it in. Remember that shrimp and crabs are at risk with this product, which we use to kill red bugs.

The next day, I'll dip the coral in various solutions.

A small bowl of tank water with 4 drops of Iodine, which is mixed first the nthe coral goes into the solution for 5 minutes. About once a minute, I'll squirt it with a turkey baster from every possible angle, flipping the coral over as I try to blow off any pests that might be hiding.

Rinse in another bowl of water.

Another small container of tank water and ReVive is used to remove any AEFW. 4 capfuls per gallon, so perhaps one capful is enough for your bowl if it holds a quart of water. Turkey baste it a few times, and be sure to remove it from the solution within 5 minutes.

Rinse in a bowl of tank water.

Study it closely, very closely. If you see nothing unusual, you can now place it in your tank.

In a couple of days, I would then pull it out and secure it to a frag plug or rock. I think with all the dipping and meds, it would probably be too soon to glue it down the same day. Too much stress for a coral means it may not survive.

[Aquarist007]

Dealing with Cyanobacteria and Red Slime Algae



Cyanobacteria, commonly referred to as slime algae, are a leading cause of destruction in a well-established reef tank. Slime algae often form long cell chains that result in a blanket-like slime that covers everything in the aquarium. Since it reproduces asexually by cell division, it takes over the tank very rapidly. It is usually a dark green to a dark red and starts out as a small dark spot on the bottom of the aquarium or on the rocks.

A slime algae bloom is difficult to get rid of until the core issue or source of the problem is dealt with. If the condition(s) that is causing the algae to form is not fully evaluated and solved, the problem will persist, and the unsightly algae will not fully disappear

Growth Factors
Growth factors include, light, nitrogen-nitrate, dissolved organic carbon, and CO2. All of these factors are basically interchangeable, meaning that one or two factors can be limited, but it won’t stop the algae-bacteria from utilizing the remaining factors, nor will it stun their growth.

Where do the Cyanos come from
Cyanobacteria are complex and not all "that" well understood to be honest. A lot has been written about them, but in terms of aquarium control of such algae there is little conclusive material.

What causes it?
It is caused by excess organics(DOC's) in a system. This can be brought on by excess feeding, overstocking, lack of filtration, infrequent water changing or from the excess nutrients from cycling a new system. Also, because it is photosynthetic, long light cycles encourage growth.
Skimmer not functionning properly or efficiently
Venturi valve needs cleaning
Wooden airstones need changing
Air pimp is not delivering enough air
skimmer is too small for the load in the tank
Bio load is too high
Additives used are adding too much organic material
and so on. These are only a few



How do I get rid of it?
The best way to get to battle cyano would be diligent tank maintenance. A combination of regular water changes, great filtration, not over feeding or over stocking, manual removal and good water flow.

Do not use tap water period. Testing your tap water would be advised. Some tap water contains phosphates and nitrates in which case RO/DI water would be necessary for top offs and salt mixing.

Add more waterflow to your tank. Cyano will thrive in low flow stagnant areas. Flow should be 20-40 times the tank vol in gph

Manual removal will help as well. Siphoning the cyano from your sand/gravel and rocks with airline tubing will help remove bulk amounts of cyano. Be sure to remove any cyano that you wipe from the sides of the tank as well.

Use a turkey baster and lightly baste the substrate and live rock once a week. This will but DOC's back into the water column where they will be filtered off.

Feed less. Just because the fish swim to the top like spoiled dogs begging doesn't mean they need fed every time you walk past the tank.

Commercially prepared foods contain a lot of phosphates as well. A homemade frozen blender mush* is a good alternative frozen food. This is a mix of fresh seafood and vitamins thats not full of preservatives.

If feeding daily, feed small amounts so there isn't a lot of excess food laying around.

If feeding frozen foods, thaw the food in some tank water and drain before feeding. I use a brine shrimp net and rinse frozen mysis ect with it. This removes alot of phosphates

Care should also be taken when feeding inverts/corals. It's easy to overfeed so be wary of adding too much.

Few animals will feed on cyano and only as a last resort for food. Some hermits may pick at it and nerite snails are said to eat it but the only true consumer is strombus sp.

Introducing macros that will compete for the nutrients will help as well. This is usually in the form of a refugium with chaeto macro



Make sure the lighting is adequate and proper. Bulbs with the correct spectrum promote growth of beneficial algae that will inhibit slime algae. (Remember that bulbs can lose their spectrum in as little as six months.)

Shutting down the lights for 3-5 days will irradicate the cyano that is present but if the source of phosphates ect isn't checked then it will come back again quickly

Lastly, there are several chemical products on the market that can be used to control cyano. These can be a mixed blessing. While it may control and/or eliminate your cyanobacteria, these fixes are usually temporary. Cyano being so adaptable, unless you change the conditions in your tank that is causing the problem in the first place, it will often adjust itself to the new chemicals and reappear over time.

Links
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ighlight=cyano

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ighlight=cyano

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ighlight=cyano

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ighlight=cyano

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ighlight=cyano

red slime remover
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ighlight=cyano

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ighlight=cyano

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...ighlight=cyano

http://www.marinescene.com/FAQ/faq_ridslimealgae.shtm

http://netclub.athiel.com/cyano/cyanos2.htm

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articl...ae-/Page1.html

http://www.algone.com/red_slime_algae.php

[Aquarist007]

Nitrogen Cycle: The Key to Biological Filtration

The nitrogen cycle is responsible for the biological filtration within the system. It keeps the water free of toxic compounds that are a result of the respiration of the inhabitants, and the decay of any matter such as waste products and uneaten food.



The nitrogen cycle in new aquariums

Newly-set-up aquariums lack the colonies of bacteria that are necessary to perform the biological filtration. Because of this, the aquarium must be "cycled."

"Cycling" refers to the process of establishing and maturing the biological filtration. In order to establish the system, we need to provide a source of ammonia for the Nitrosomonas bacteria in the filtration system so they can live, reproduce, and colonize.

The best source of ammonia comes from dead animal and plant material on live rock. Live rock also contains both anerobic and aerobic bacteria. These bacteria will cycle or increase their numbers in response to the ammonia produced in the system

What happens in the Cycling Process



During the cycling process, ammonia levels will go up and then suddenly plummet as the nitrite-forming bacteria take hold. Because nitrate-forming bacteria don't even begin to appear until nitrite is present in significant quantities, nitrite levels skyrocket (as the built-up ammonia is converted), continuing to rise as the continually-produced ammonia is converted to nitrite.

Once the nitrate-forming bacteria take hold, nitrite levels fall, nitrate levels rise, and the tank is fully cycled.

Some Notes
All that is needed for the cyling process is live rock. Using live fish for this process is both unnecessary and very stressful to the fish

Cycling takes between 3-5 weeks and it is best to be patient and allow this process to occur naturally

At the end of 3-5 weeks and there has been no signs of ammonia or nitrate spikes then one can add a piece of raw shrimp for 12 hours. If there is not a spike in ammonia in 12 hours then the shrimp should be removed and the tank can be considered cycled

A suggested method of adding live inverts corals and fish is:
week 4 add your invert clean up crew
week 5 add some hardy lps corals
week 6 add one fish(that you have quarantined prior

A water change is generally not suggested until the end of the cycle unless you are trying to preserve possible life on the live rock. In this case water changes should be performed when the ammonia first rises and continue to keep it low

Resources
http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dyn...iological.html

http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dyn.../newtank3.html

http://faq.thekrib.com/begin-cycling.html

http://www.eoearth.org/article/Marine_nitrogen_cycle

http://www.liveaquaria.com/general/g...al_pagesid=102

http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/bio...a/aa073199.htm

http://www.peteducation.com/article....+1789&aid=2657

[krowleey]

very cool. should be a sticky. It covers just about most things newer people in the hobby have questions about.

[Aquarist007]

Originally Posted by krowleey

very cool. should be a sticky. It covers just about most things newer people in the hobby have questions about.

thanks Krowleey, if you or anyone else has a topic that you would like me to research please don't hesitate to ask